trip account to kinnaur ,lahul and spiti

mantru

We started on 22 nd march at 7.40 am from New Delhi Staion,took Satabdi till Kalka Arrived at 12 noon.There was no shared jeeps avaliable as it was Holi and the drivers association were charging 1100/- for a drop till Shimla.Luckily we met a doctor couple and shared the taxi till Shimla.We reached around 3 pm.Our intention was to start to Sangla as soon as possible however there were no direct buses the same day so we settled in for the 6.30 pm bus to Reckong Peo(buses leave for Peo at 8 pm as well as 10.30 pm the best one is 10.30 pm as it reaches Peo around 7am next day.We booked our seat on the 6.30 pm bus as we had time we went to stroll in the mall.We were back by 6 pm to the ISBT Bus stand,the bus was an ordinary local bus type.At that point of time I had no idea how we would manage throughout the night with not even a head rest.But we managed and my brother almost fell off the seat not once but twice as he was dozing all the way.
We reached Peo on the wee hours at 3.30 am,as soon as we disembarked the bus we were hit by the cold wave doing the rounds.Immediately we were chilled to our bones by the impact of the nasty cold breeze.But when I looked around beyond the trees i saw the white Kinner Kailash shimmering in the dim moonlight,it was an awesome feeling.It was still dark so nowhere to go all the passengers from Peo quickly disappeared under the cover of darkness leaving two more passengers going to Nako my brother and me.Finally one of the passengers suggested to go for tea in the nearby hotel.We had tea,and i did manage to doze for sometime,by 6am we went to look for Shivling GH,we walked down the bus station.The Guest House was locked from inside we tried our best to wake up someone ,but no one stirred,who would at that time in the morning.We met a local who suggested us to stay near the bus station as there are hotels there too.While talking to him he was kind enough to show us the Shivling on the Kinner kailash peak,it was good to get the darshan in the morning.
We found a Apple Orchard Guest House,just beyond the busstop,was a newly made hotel clean rooms with gyeser,the charge 200/- off season and 300-350/- during season.We planned to visit kalpa the same day took a bus at 10.30 am they charged us 10/-per person.We went around the village,finally asked the locals way to chakha pastures.One gentleman suggested we follow the water cannal and we would reach the pastures.
We started our hike as soon as we left the road we realised it would not be easy as this was no regular path but a steep upward climb.But we managed,we got a tea break at one of the houses and again started upwards.Once we left the houses behind,the clinb was a steep one.The higher reaches still had snow,though we have seen snow so many times ,yet the feeling it awakens is amazing,fresh and crisp.
We were down in 4 hours time,as no food stalls were opened we caught the bus which was ready to leave for Peo at 5 pm,went directly to Peo bazaar had Thukpa and found the internet (charge 60/ hour)to inform people we were fine ,as my Vodophone network did not follow me where I went.
Next day (third) we went to Sangla by 9.30 am bus (charge 40/head)reached there at 11.30 am .The bus ride to Sangla was one of the most thrilling rides,I must say the drivers do a great job,till you get off at sangla you'll not relax if you get the window seat towards the slope.We started towards Sangla Kanda immediately as we know we had to be back to catch the last bus to Karchham.We met a local,who showed us the way he was a retired army guy,who had scaled Everest as well.He was just back with his quote of rum.The way to Sangla Kanda was ok steep at times,as soon as you start do not try to take short cuts as that may lead to village above,just follow the broad path.We had a fairly good hike ,stopped at the second last house before we reached the lake for lunch break,had carried Wai Wai noodles so we asked the old lady for some hot water.She invited us to her humble but very warm house,we talked about alot of things,she stays alone to chase away monkeys from her apple orchard.The hike to the lake was around one hour from her house,by 2.30 pm we were thru with lunch,she offered apples ans a small bottle of Angoorie(local grape drink) .We started off with the hike,lunch and sun slowing us down ,we had decided if we do not reach the lake by 4 pm,we would return to catch the last bus out of Sangla to Chandigarh.It was 3.50 pm still no sign of a lake ,finally I told my brother we would walk upto the shepherds house which we could see from below and no more,when we reached the top there was our small lake hidden on the other side.I hope you all can feel the sense of achievement we felt at that time,ha ha.It was windy and the heat which had built up from the walk uphill was suddenly snatched by the cold wind blowing from the snowy hill above.We spent 10 mins around the lake taking photographs and storing the scenery in out heart for the rest of our lives.We started our descend at 4.10 pm,we literally ran down the hill,infear of reaching the bus stop late.By 5.30 pm we were at the bus stop,the bus was just ready to leave,we boarded the bus till Karchham(20/-fare),and caught a later bus to Peo(20/-fare) at 6.30 pm reached Peo at 7.30 pm,an eventful day came to an end.We will be starting to Nako tomorrow(4 th day) at 7.30 am as the Kaza bus leaves at 7.30 am.Its called the Kaza bus by locals.
more to come.........and pics as well

uttam

Thank you, Mantru, for making my memories of the places green!

Greetings.

mantru

few pics.....of kinner kailash .chakha pastures and Sangla kanda lake........hope you all like it

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uttam

Wonderful pics, Mantru, i liked the last one the most. Thanks for sharing.

shahronakm

Awesome pics & Nice report as well. Waiting for your next part.

Ronak.

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snonymous

Beautiful, beautiful photographs - more so for those of us in the sweltering coastal regions. Love the sweet little pussy cat too, he is very cute.

nayan

Mantru,
what was the condition of the road between recong peo and kaza?
Are the guest houses open in Kaza? I read that most of them open late april.....

mantru

hey guys thanks for your comments.........hey nayan you are correct all the hotels were closed,we found one guest house called Zambala in kaza..the owner lives in the same house....Yes roads are open and in good condition ...i guess once the ice melts there might be a problem

mantru

here we go with the remaining info....hope this will help fellow travellers in future....as when i started i had no clus about the return transportation system.......

(Day 4th)We boarded the bus to Nako at 7.30 am(fare 100/- for 5-6 hrs journey),this bus goes to Kaza direct.There is one more bus which comes from Rampur which departs at 12.00 noon from Peo which goes to Shalkher.The road is awesome specially at the Sutluj and Spiti river sangam.The road goes to Nako directly,we got off the bus at 1.15 pm at Nako,and at 500m is the village.Once we reached the village we got to know all the hotel and restaurants are closed as the season has not yet kicked off......a huge disappointment,moreover now we did not have any option the bus had already left.We went around the village with our luggage and had a look at the lake as well.After that went back to the mail road where we had food at the Centerview dhaba.The food was ok,the main issue was where to go next and how.We talked to some locals and they suggested we carry on to Chango or Shalkher where there are hotels and as the bus would stop at Shalkher( the bus staff halts fir the night)finally, we could see one small option on the horizon(its always good to talk to locals who know the area its a small place with few people so everyone know whats happening around).At 5.30 pm we stopped a Sumo who was on the way to Shalkher(bus had still not arrived)it took us 2.5 hours (fare 50/- per person)to reach.The driver of the cab took us to the hotel and then we realised there was no hotel,the below rooms of the house was turned into dormetry kinds which were used by labourers and bus staff and simple food were provided,we had no options but to stay.After dinner of rice,curry and dal the owner lady came to me and said she will take us to her house instead(such a relief).We slept on her bed and next morning we paid the rent for the beds (30/- each at that time I was quite ashamed to pay that paltry sum and she had invited us to her house)and dinner 25/- per head.
(Day 5th)The bus was going to Kaza from Shalkher at 7.30 am so we boarded the bus for our next stop Tabo(fare 40/- per head for three hours ride) the bus goes via Kew(I am not sure how it is spelt).We reached Tabo at 10.30 am and had decided to move on to kaza (on 3.30 pm Kaza bus from Peo)after visiting the monastry,however when we had a talk with a local he suggested we go to Dhankar first as it falls on the way to Kaza.We have to travel to the village of Schiling,then trek uphill to Dhankar or hire a car(the mettled road is 8 km,short cut uphill in 4 km roughly and will take 1.5 hrs to walk).We satyed at Tabo at the Millenium GH as that was the only one open(200/- double room).We could have carried on to Dhankar the same day in the Kaza bus but as due to off season we were not sure if we would get accom or not.We can do Tabo and carry on to Dhankar stay overnight so that we get enough time next day to visit the monastries and Dhankar lake.
(Day 6th)We started from Tabo at 9.30 am on the bus (fare 30/- for 1.5 hrs journey)from Shelkhar towards Dhankar.We reached Schiling and had chowmein at the only shop,left our baggage and proceeded towards Dhankar at 11.30 am.It took os 1.5 hrs to reach the monastry.The old monastry was closed,and we were thirsty so we asked for water instead the lady of the house offered to make tea,later that invitation turned to lunch as well.We spent some time with the family ,so we did not get time to go to the lake as our target was to reach kaza the same day and we had to be at Schiling by 4 pm for the Kaza bus.So after lunch we bid goodbyes and started our downhill walk.It just took us half an hour to reach the village,a Sumo was ready to go towards Kaza so after resting for some time we proceeded towards Kaza at 3.30 pm(fare 30/- one hour ride).Once we reached Kaza again all guest house were closed however Zambala was open and allowed us to stay (200/- double room attached bath no geysers but hot water provided) and no food avail have to go to the few shops open.
(Day 7 th)We booked a taxi to visit Kee and Kibber(400/- up and down) took us around 4 hours once we returned the day was free to rest.
(Day 8 th)Finally after 8 days our time had come to trace back our journey,we boarded the Kaza bus to Peo at 7.30 am(fare 205/- 10 hours journey),we reached at 5.30 pm after some rest a bus was leaving for Shimla at 7 pm(fare 220/- 9 hours )we boarded that bus and reached Shimla at 3.30 am.The next bus to Delhi was at 8 am so we boarded a bus to Chandigarh at 4.45 am(fare 100/- 3.5 hours) and reached at 8 am,a volvo was just about to leave so we boarded that bus as well(fare 370/- 5 hours) and reacged delhi at 1.30 pm.So that ended our eventful,thrilling,adventerous ,impressive trip to Himachal (my first to Himachal).

Balvar

Dear Mantru

Must say a excellent post, Just wanted to ask can u guide me to Sangla Kand Lake. Excatly from where we start the trek for the lake.

amarshah

real awesome post ! and thanks for the great info. BTW is it possible for someone to upload or provide a link for the regions map.

thanks

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Amar

Year 2008 Trips - http://amards14.googlepages.com/

mantru

guys finally i am up with few photos...pls let me know how they are...not a photographer...used nikon L11......

http://www.flickr.com/gp/13965449@N05/35ht9v

mantru

As soon as you reach the bus stop...just walk 20-25 steps and ask the locals ther is a small path towards the village you'll reach the mandir cum monastry from there ask the way to the footbridge...once you cross it follow the path upwards....dont deviate...keep asking the local you'll reach the way we did....enjoy...

Balvar

Dear Mantru do we have to start from Sangla Village or Batesri Village.otherwise gud Find & nice Pics

mridula

Lovely pictures and wonderful report. Thanks for sharing.

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mridula

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