Questions for McLeod Ganj: September-October

Greetings!

I'll be visiting McLeod Ganj starting in the second week of December. I will purchase my flight to Delhi, however from that point I have a few questions.

1. Should I purchase a Kingfisher flight from Delhi to Gaggal Airport in advance (now) or should I wait until I arrive in Delhi? OR should I just take a bus? If I take a bus, is there any way to view the route/timetable online? Are the flights/busses reliable?

2. I want to take a "side trip" to Kathmandu in the middle of my trip. According to the Kingfisher site, I can fly from Gaggal Airport to Kathmandu. Can anyone confirm this?

3. Will any of you be in the Dharamsala/McLeod Ganj area between September 15-October 25th? I am a female traveling alone, and a bit nervous. I would love to meet up with a travel buddy either in Delhi or McLeod Ganj.

4. I'm bringing an iPhone - do I need to purchase any special kind of gadget/card so that my phone works up there? I will have an international phone plan so it should be okay on my end.

5. I'm bringing in my Nikon DSLR camera and a few lenses... however I'm only carrying a 45L backpack for all my things. Any suggestions from fellow photographers on how to carry in my camera/lenses? Also - in your expert opinions, is it safe to bring in a DSLR?

6. Can anyone recommend any day trips or weekend trips from the area?

7. I'll have access to about $3000 (US) for the duration of my trip - will this be enough?

I'll probably have more questions.. but that's it for now! Thanks in advance!

1. If you want to fly, i would buy the ticket in advance. The monsoon will just be ending so cancellation is possible though fairly unlikely. A number of buses leave Delhi early each evening. Do you know where you will stay in Delhi yet? Wongdhen house is popular with foreign visitors as they offer airport pick-up. If you stay there you can buy a bus ticket at any of the travel agents nearby. The buses are nothing fancy by western standards but generally reliable. If it does break down, the situation will be sorted out.
2. You may want to post a separate thread on this one. You would fly from Gaggal to Delhi then onward to Nepal. There are relatively new rules regarding leaving and re-entering the country. Post on a suitable thread and India Mike people can fill you in on what you will need to fly out then go back.
3. There will be no shortage of foreign tourists in McLeod Ganj (Dharamsala). it is a tiny town and effort needs to be made if you don't want to spend the whole time hanging around with other tourists.
4. Your phone should work fine, but if it doesn't or you want to save money, you can buy a SIM card in Dharamsala or Delhi-- whereever you plan to spend the most time. You will need two passport size photos-- lots of handy places to get them in India-- and photocopies of your passport photo and visa-- also easy to get in India.
5. Don't leave your camera bag unattended and avoid walking alone in deserted areas. For example, paths outside of McLeod Ganj. Muggings don't happen often, but they do occasionally. Bring a strong padlock from home if you are worried about your room being broken into while you are out. (Unlikely, in Dharamsala but could happen elsewhere if you are travelling around.)
6. From Dharamsala, I recommend Norbulingka, Kangra Fort, Masroor Temple (The Rock Temple)and Rewalsar (Tso Pema in Tibetan) There are lots of other lovely places to visit in and around the Kangra Valley. Hunt around on the Internet.
7. Even if you live large $3000 should last with lots to spare.(Bring about $500 in travellers cheques as they come in handy sometimes.) It does depend on what sort of traveller you are though. You can spend unlimited money in India if you want to.

Hi Nola,

We will be arriving in Mcleod on Sept. 13. We are taking the train after much deliberation from Delhi. Kingfisher seems very unreliable with all the cancellations. We are arriving from New York on Sept. 10 and will leave Delhi on the 12th for the overnight train to Chakki Bank.We are a young family with three kids so may not be your cup of tea but we are open, friendly and a "group" if you want to be around others. We are very well travelled and have been to India as well as lived all over the world so feel very comfortable. If you would like to meet in Delhi, take the train together, or meet in Mcleod- please feel free to IM me. You do need to post a bit more to be able to IM - I think it is around 10 posts which can include replies. But feel free to reach out at any point.
Best,
L

I'll be visiting McLeod Ganj starting in the second week of December. I will purchase my flight to Delhi, however from that point I have a few questions.

1. Should I purchase a Kingfisher flight from Delhi to Gaggal Airport in advance (now) or should I wait until I arrive in Delhi? OR should I just take a bus? If I take a bus, is there any way to view the route/timetable online? Are the flights/busses reliable?

Flight tickets are best purchased early. However Kingfisher is the ONLY airline operating and its in a bit of a crisis currently. Even if it had been alright, if you are looking to come down in December (below you mention Sep/Oct so im not sure) be prepared for possibility of flight cancellation. Its best to break your journey from Delhi and come at a leisurely pace by road.

2. I want to take a "side trip" to Kathmandu in the middle of my trip. According to the Kingfisher site, I can fly from Gaggal Airport to Kathmandu. Can anyone confirm this?

No direct flights. Gaggal airport is very very small and the ATS flight will take you to Delhi from where you will need to change planes to Kathmandu. You (being a non Indian) of course need a separate visa for Nepal. The problem will be on your return ... Im not sure where you intend to go to when returning from Kathmandu, but the later in Deccember you get, the more fickle the flights to Dharmsala which means another night wasted driving up form Delhi (not to mention really tiring!) Ergo, its best to plan things such that you get to Kathmandu around the end of your trip, so that you can return to Delhi and then look to fly back home direct.

3. Will any of you be in the Dharamsala/McLeod Ganj area between September 15-October 25th? I am a female traveling alone, and a bit nervous. I would love to meet up with a travel buddy either in Delhi or McLeod Ganj.

McLeodganj is pretty cool and you should not have any problems whatsoever. There are a lot of westerners and as long as you dont do anything silly (venture out late at night with a complete stranger you met in a bar!) ... you should be fine. I could perhaps be there around that time but it depend son the amount of snow and possibility of reaching Manimahesh Kailash...I want to go at the fag end where the usual tourist rush has ended BUT there is no guarantee of when the pass closes, so I have my ear to the ground but yea approximately its around mid to end September.

4. I'm bringing an iPhone - do I need to purchase any special kind of gadget/card so that my phone works up there? I will have an international phone plan so it should be okay on my end.

The best idea is to take a local Indian card (as suggested above) but im not sure what our policies are... and if mobile operators are allowed to give cards to foreigners. I know my passport was ineffectual getting a card in Bhutan...being Indian, I cannot comment really except that your original card with international roaming will work perfectly fine. Add to it the fact that McLeodganj is remarkably well connected with excellent 3G internet connectivity.

5. I'm bringing in my Nikon DSLR camera and a few lenses... however I'm only carrying a 45L backpack for all my things. Any suggestions from fellow photographers on how to carry in my camera/lenses? Also - in your expert opinions, is it safe to bring in a DSLR?

Its safe to bring in a DSLR as long as you dont lose it or travel alone really late in the night! If you worry about it getting stolen whilst walking along a deserted street... not very likely

6. Can anyone recommend any day trips or weekend trips from the area?

Im trying to complete my ermmm... trip report from last December but have been lazy... perhaps I might as well do it now! (as in tomorrow) Here it is - it should help somewhat i reckon! http://www.indiamike.com/india/himac...inter-t167919/

If you are into trekking, there are some awesome trips - most accessible one is to Indrahar Pass (day trip) I personally would recommend going to Chamba.. cos its just spectacular (thats where I went in Dec, yet to post the Himalayan pics!) In Sep/Oct, you should be able to get some really spectacular treks...(google treks around Bharmour)

7. I'll have access to about $3000 (US) for the duration of my trip - will this be enough?

Most of your money is gonna get wasted in Nepal. I stayed in a comfortable room for INR 600! (of cours ein off season - Dec) with a view of the mountains form my balcony, hot water, television... and pretty much on the market main street! in McLeodganj. Worst case you could expect about INR 1500 to be a pretty good room rate, with food approximately about INR 500 (if lavish!) and drinks about 1000-1500 (if you intend to be pubbing... advised to instead buy your beer and sit in the comfort of your hotel room.. will come to barely INR 300) Thus, considering you are a lavish spender, you would probably spend about 3000 INR + travelling costs... make it worst case 4000 INR daily which means 72 USD a day. A person of simple tastes (like most of us) would probably spend only about 30-35 USD a day and still be quite comfy!

I'll probably have more questions.. but that's it for now! Thanks in advance!

PS : Do check the post for Bharmour pics tomorrow...trust me when I say its worth a visit!

I should have mentioned that you can rent furnished rooms in McLeod Ganj by the month for around 7000 rupees. When you arrive find a room and take a few days to get to know the town. (If you don't have a guest house in mind I can recommend Om Guest House, about Rs450 for a room with a private bathroom and no TV. It is very centrally located.) Most of the places that rent by the month are down the Yongling Stairs, just past Mountview Hotel on Jogibara Road. The places at the bottom of the stairs usually have the best rates. I knew a number of people who got good deals at Sharma Cottage, but you should check around. It's also worth asking at the places up Tipa Road for deals by the month. I've spent 2 1/2 of the past 9 years in McLeod Ganj and never heard of anywhere being horrible. The worst that happens is annoying-- usually loud-- neighbours.
In the bar, beers are Rs120 each and they are 750 ml. (I don't know what that is in imperial but they are about twice the size of a standard North American bottle.) No idea if you drink, but there are strong and light beers. Kingfisher premium is a good light one, 5%.
What do you enjoy doing? That will help to offer good advice on rooms, activities, restaurants etc. Some go for yoga and meditation while on the other end of the spectrum are those who like so socialize into the wee hours.

Goodness I'm glad you all caught that I meant September...my hands must have been thinking December! Thanks for the wonderful replies! I'll post soon...

Cardinal:

First, thank you so much for your thoughtful response! I have spoken with the folks at Lha and it looks like I will be in Majnu ka tilla upon arrival in Delhi.. so Wongdhen House is likely. Airport pickup is a good idea!! Are the buses fairly reliable - as in do they run every day?

On the Kingfisher site, there is a flight available from Gaggal to Kathmandu (bypassing Delhi) - does this not exist? Silly websites!

Here's the thing - I appreciate tourism, and recognize that I will *be* a tourist… but they make me crazy. I'd much rather hole up with some locals for a couple of months. I do travel quite a bit, though it's my first time in India. I typically spend the first couple days being touristy and acclimating myself to the area, then find locals to hang with.

Thanks for the padlock idea!!! All of the places you mentioned are on my list.. I'll make sure to go!

Best Regards!

Hi Larue!

Thank you so much for the offer - I will consider it! I will be arriving from Boston. I have not heard much about the trains, just bus/flights… will definitely look into it!

Best regards!

If you will be volunteering with LHA, that is great. They are a very respected organization. (There are lots of other good ones too.) I believe that they still offer a comprehensive package that takes care of airport pick up, guesthouse, transportation and orientation for a fee. It costs more than doing it all yourself, but the money helps fund their programs and the peace of mind can be priceless.
If you are volunteering you will quickly get to know locals. Avoiding other foreigners is easy. Chat with locals and avoid the places that are really touristy. Green Hotel and Nick's Italian Kitchen are the main tourist hang-outs for some reason. If you haven't already, read up as much as you can on the Tibetan political situation, and start following the Indian news. Also, knowing a little about football (soccer) and cricket, can lead to conversations. Hold people to the same standards as you would back home; watch for those who are too pushy and direct or abnormally friendly. They can prove annoying. People there are often friendlier than in the west and you want to make friends, but trust your instincts. Usually this only happens to women-- of all ages. That said, don't be paranoid. Lots of people want to practice English, educate visitors about their cultures, and learn about the west. Places like Tsongka Restaurant and TCV Tea shop can be good places to meet locals. Common Ground Cafe is a cool place. You will find more foreigners there but locals also go; the food is great and the staff are friendly, same goes for Lhamo's Croissant and Rose Cafe. Another place popular with Tibetans is Beans Cafe. There are so many; you could go to a new place every day! I love MacLlo and Hotel Tibet, but harder to meet people there. The second floor of Mountview Bar is another-- go early and hang out at the bar rather than sitting alone at a table or ask to join a group with a foreigner or two in it, then the conversations will likely be in English. Speak slowly and clearly, but avoid baby talk. Many times locals have told me that certain foreigners seem really nice, but they can't understand them as they talk too fast.
Above all don't expect people to conform to stereotypes,eg not all Indians are into yoga and not all Tibetans are terribly religious. You probably don't expect that, but it is surprising how many visitors have totally unrealistic expectations and are thus disappointed.

Thanks again, Cardinal...all good points and places to check out! I made a blog specifically for this trip, if anyone wants to follow it: sociosound.blogspot.com. My "normal" site is sociosound.wordpress.com - though I won't be posting much about the trip on it. I felt like I needed something separate for this.

So here's a question for you....


I'm fat (200lbs) and pretty out of shape... but resilient and determined... are there any treks I could make in the area? I love hiking, yet I imagine Triund is out of the question for me.

Nola

mcleod gang is a wonderful place, but you should try out kasol also. There are direct buses from delhi to kasol but it would be tiring , so it would be better if you take a bus from delhi to chandigarh and then from chandigarh to kasol, if you are interested in going to kasol

Nola...
Just a heads up on Kingfisher Airlines...this airline is almost bankrupt...not paid their staff for 4months and more...flight issues with frequent cancellation...strikes...worst ..they will not compensate you if their particular flight does not operate and you would be lucky to get a refund.
You may opt for the HRTC Volvo bus service (overnight) leaves around 6.00pm from Delhi..OR book a 2Tier AC Sleeper Seat and travel by train Delhi to Pathankot or Chakki Bank....Hire a Comfortable Car and it would be 3-4 hour ride to Mcleod Ganj.

Hi Nola, Triund is a hard slog for many relatively fit people, me included. When you get there you will see it. It is the ridge below the mountain peak and is almost a full vertical kilometre above McLeod. If you do go, there are a few tea shops along the way and a guesthouse that you could overnight in; if you want to do that you can book in advance. McLeod is a great place to get fit. There are lots of stairs and it is hilly. I seldom lose much weight as there is so much good food, but I always get fit. Bring good walking shoes and consider bringing a pair of collapsible treking poles if you want to hike. Always go with a partner as there are occasional muggings, usually by transients. I'd start with some nice walks. The church is not far and is really cool. Bagsu and the waterfall beyond is another longer walk. There is a bit of a scramble over a large boulder right before the waterfall. Walk from McLeod to Dharamkot; it's beautiful but the road and paths are steep. Another time take a rickshaw to Dharamkot and do the first section of the Triund Trek. You could stop when you get to the first tea house. Take the local bus to Norbulingka. it will drop you off about a kilometre away. In McLeod you can do the Kora. It is a walk that circumambulates the Dalai Lama's residence. You must do it clockwise as it is a holy walk. there are prayer wheels and mani stones along the way.
McLeod is almost 2000 metres above sea level so if you feel more out of breath than usual, it is just the elevation and you will adjust.
As you are a bigger person, you might like to take a Volvo bus up to McLeod. The seats are a little wider and there is more leg room. The regular "deluxe" buses are more cramped than a Greyhound. I took the Volvo twice, when I needed a more decent sleep. (They have leg rests.)
I read your blog and I feel so excited for you. I remember how I felt when I first went 9 years ago. I had dreams beforehand too.
Don't worry about being a "bad Buddhist." Most Tibetans are Buddhists, but they usually leave the hardcore practice and rituals to the monks and nuns. Lay people usually practice in private if at all. You mostly see the religion through the general decency of the people. Most are remarkably resilient too. I think you will have a great time.

My bad. Sidch and Ashok have important advice regarding Kingfisher. I left in January, and Kingfisher's problems have gotten worse since then. If they are still flying, you could take a chance and see if you can book a flight from Delhi at the last minute. Not always possible, but if it is you can get the ticket in Majnu ka Tilla. I've never taken the train. I must do so sometime. The buses leave from Majnu ka Tilla. Convenience has made me lazy!