Manali to Keylang and the Pattan Valley

Dilliwala

Earlier this month I took my first trip into Lahaul (crossing the 'zero point' at Rohtang doesn't count ). Originally I intended to make only an exploratory trip from Manali to Keylang and back after one night. The road over the Rohtang and along the Chandra river is in pretty bad shape at a number of places. Gulaba to Gramphu has some really bad spots along the way; Koksar to Tandi Bridge is a bit better, but even then a few bad spots.
The confluence at Tandi Bridge looks quite spectacular, the green water of the Chandra mixing with the deep-blue (at least in the evening light) of the Bhaga, to form of course, the Chandrabhaga.
Keylang is a pretty little town (or a large village), however there's not much to see, except the monasteries nearby of which I've written elsewhere. I wanted to see a little more of the area, it being a case of so near and yet so far and feeling somewhat short-changed and all that. Cudn't decide whether to go upto Suraj Tal/Baralacha La or drive to Jispa only. I eventually settled on a drive thru the Pattan Valley (Chandrabhaga) to Udaypur, figuring I'd see the Bhaga valley when I eventually find my way to Ladakh!
Altho next year I fully intend to approach the Pattan Valley from Chamba/Sach Pass, down to Kilar.

Very glad I chose the drive to Udaypur. The road from Karga is definitely in better condition, except for one or two spots. Also a 10-km stretch from Thirot Power-house to just short of Kukumseri where the road surface is practically completely eroded. But the entire stretch along the Chandrabhaga at a fairly level altitude between 2700-3000 m is quite enjoyable.
Along the way is the village of Arat, where u can turn off for Triloknath - had to skip it due to time constraints.
Udaypur is quite a pretty village with a long bazar and the Markula Devi temple at the end. There are 3 small guest-houses in the bazar (didn't check them out). As u enter Udaypur u cross the Miyar Nala, upstream of which is the Miyar valley which has been written about quite a bit in other threads. The sangam with the Chandrabhaga is clearly visible from the road. At the end of the metalled road (2 km outside Udaypur) u suddenly run into a clump of devdar trees standing right along the river bank! The river is pretty wide here, ideal for rafting too I wud have thought. but being so far from a major town logistics are probably difficult to handle. Kilar is 45 km down the road, all unmetalled except for the a.m. 2 km. However buses do ply this road coming from Manali.
And the colours in the valley definitely beat what the Chandra valley has to offer - suddenly among all the brown and grey, u see patches of the best of autumn colours at regular intervals along the way - yellow, red, light green, dark green - fantastic!
In the little vilage of Kirting along the way is the Lahaul Hops and Chickory Coop Society - so those who like to brew at home, take note.

So having extended my trip by a day to start with, not getting back to Manali on the second day thereby having to spend another night en-route, and the fuel-burn being higher than what I've ever experienced due to the altitude, I found myself very low on cash, there being no ATM anywhere on the stretches I covered. Ok, I had 2 sleeping bags and was prepared to sleep in the car at night if I didn't find any REALLY cheap accommodation, heheh. Finally ended up in the PWD dormitory at Koksar, along with 8 truckies/drivers! But they didn't bother me, and all in all it was not bad (apart from the bathroom which can safely be described as unspeakable). The bed cost me ALL of 15 bucks . And the dhabas nearby had steaming hot food for dinner, which was great.
What is of note here for anyone else who ever gets stuck on this route is that the PWD guest-house is open to all, subject to availability. There are 10 beds in the dorm and also 5 double-rooms with attached bath which cost Rs. 200 for HP residents, Rs. 250 for everyone else. U do not need permission from another office further away - a resident Engineer gives it to u on the spot.

So anyone wanting to see autumn colours at their best, the Pattan valley is for u. But do it NOW before the pass closes! Otherwise there's always next year.

rishabh6296

Hi Dilliwala,
i did this route in July though mine was a long trip.Pattan valley is definitely greener and more colorful than chandra valley,but you shouldnt have missed trilokinath as the temple is amazing and view better than udaipur.Did u go to guru ghantal and khardand monastery?

Dilliwala

Hi rishabh,
I know, but as I mentioned - time was an issue. I'll deifnitely add it next year.

Again time was the issue. That being the case, and Khardang not being on the direct route, and though I like seeing monasteries time-permitting and/or there being something unique about one, they are not a must-do for me espesh if there's going to be a next time - so I skipped it. I did take a picture of it from my hotel roof though.

Guru Ghantal: u mean - WALK???!!!!
(Heheh - well, I did do the 5-km from Mana to Vasudhara and back on Sat. My feet are still hurting - thanks to all the stones!)
Again, I have it in one shot along with Tupchiling. That'll do for now, heheh.

soledad

Thank you very much for bringing this trip report to my notice,it is as is obvious very useful to me,as I am planning to go to visit that region later this year. It would have been great had you been able to put the map of the route that you followed for this trip.
By the way,looking at the time when you posted this trip report last year,I remember I was enjoying my time in Chitkul village,at the very moment!