living in a quiet town near manali

scotsman

Hi from Bombay. I've been here since the 19th and leave on the 26th for goa.... the internet connection is good here and the other times I've been on I didnt have time to write anything on here cos I was sending emails....

Anyway, Script so far. Got to bombay by taking a 2pm bus from diu to rajkot (7 hours) then train from rajkot to ahmedabad (6 hours) then train from ahmedabad to bombay (12 hours) all in 1 go! I got to bombay at about 7 30 and wasnt really sure what I wanted to do, it was either stay bombay get train to goa or kerala. Bombay isnt like delhi at all I dont think, theres some stinking rich indians here who drive about in BMW 4x4's and they dress more like western people an look well off! I decided after half an hour of being here I would get the night train to goa and sleep on the way as at that point didnt really want to spend much more time in the city, but the ticket reservation office shuts at 8 and it was shut before it got to my turn to book!

They told me at bombay central I could, however, get a ticket from CST station (where the goa train leaves) and go tonight if I really wanted. So I got a taxi to CST..... in the taxi the driver and his mate were saying that theres only a standard ticket counter and not sleeper class reservation open (u dont want a 12 hour general ticket in a fully packed overnight train, which it would be going to goa - so packed some would be on the roof - but i didnt know this yet) I got told at central station I could reserve a ticket but when I got to CST there was no reservation office open! only general!
The cab lads then took me to a place where I could of got an overnight bus to goa, for 1000rs, fuck that! (sleeper class, which is 10 times comfier than bus and u can walk about, costs 293rs) So I just got them to drop me off at the station.

But, but..... as the driver took my bags out the boot, there was a big puddle underneath my "goodies" bag. I got 3rd bag in diu cos my other 2 were very full and didnt want to crush any delicate items, and in this bag I had 3 bottles of rum i bought in diu for 1 pound a bottle since its tax free (750ml, 42%)
I thought the puddle was water at first but on closer inspection it was my rum! smashed and everywhere. Thankfully I only had a jacket and some wooden souvegnir type stuff in that bag and these were mainly untouched, but at this point I couldnt be arsed with bombay and wanted to get out of the hassles of the indian citys! When I entered the station to book my general ticket 2 porters approached me and said they could get me a sleeper class ticket to goa even tho the reservation office is shut. I was suspicious of it but said ok and i filled in the ticket form, gave it to them then there boss (think it was) turned up, told me he can get me the ticket for 650, which is 350 commission for him - no way! I was about to leave but the 2 porters were sound and said theyd get me the general ticket if I wanted at cost price (160rs) they only asked for 160 but I had no chance only 200 which I gave them, they got me the ticket but didnt give me my change but 40rs commission I can live with and the fact they would have done it without means i was happy to give them it anyway. ANYWAY, train leaves at 11pm, it was 9 ish now. I then met a frenchy who was travelling down to goa on the same train with his mum dad and sister and who payed 325 for his sleeper class ticket I was very jelous of this. After showing him my general ticket (you sit on a metal bench for 12 hours with no room and its risky for luggage!) this indian overheard our conversations and he explained to me that general ticket to goa tonight is a bad option. This is peak season for goa and apparently loads of bombay locals are going there too.... which means... there is no "capacity" ie they sell as many tickets as people want. The lucky ones, ie with no/little luggage, will board the train and get a seat. The unlucky ones will need to go on the roof. ie me. with loads of luggage! He explained that on the main line its dangerous with leccy lines and pilons very close at some points and some people have died while on the roof and id be better getting a room in bombay for the night and reserving a bed on sleeper class the next day.

ontop of the fact i couldnt be arsed with another 12 hour train journey and needed sleep, i didnt like the thought of being electrocuted. So went out the station an asked a few folk where theres a cheap hotel. This guy said he could get me a room for 300, but as he was about to take me another indian said he would take me to a hotel right next to the station for 350 a night. I agreed and when I got there, 2 minutes WALK from CST (in fort area) the 364rs a night was agreed and i slept nicely! The lad who took me to the hotel seemed decent and said he was a student and wanted to show me around bombay the next day.

I'l add when that guy went into the hotel to check if there was a room, the taxi driver was very animated. He told me, "I AM ONLY A TAXI DRIVER, THIS IS MY JOB, IF HE CHEATS YOU AND YOU GET THE POLICE, I AM NOTHING TO DO WITH HIM, THIS IS MY JOB, I DRIVE TAXIS" Obviously concerned at his "warning" I asked if he thought this guy was up to some dirty tricks. The driver told me "OF COURSE! WHY IS HE HELPING YOU? FOR FREE!?" I was a bit worried about this but needed sleep. When the guy returned he told me there was a room and I gathered my bags and took them up to the hotel. The taxi driver started arguing with this guy and it got quite heated.... it was in hindi though! At reception i tried to bargain but they werent having it and would only take 364. I walked away saying it was too much and 300 was the most il pay..... but my trick didnt work here, so back up the stairs and went to view the room, took it! nearly a fiver a night, is actually very cheap here, and now (after 5 days here) ive found out its the cheapest in the area! I went back down to say il take it and just as I got down another indian came in looking for a room too, but my room was the last one available... and he wasnt skipping the queue, not wanting to lose out on the room I changed tones told them it is a nice room and I'l take it, made out i was all tired and tried to make them feel sorry for me with the story of my 24 hour journey to get here with no sleep to make sure they didnt offer it to that new guy who was prepared to pay the 364 without any bargaining. They seemed to warm to me now, after initially being pissed off about my haggling of the price and agreed to give me it as i was first here. FINALLY i could sleep..... But just before I went up to have my rest that, now suspicious lad who took me to the hotel wanted to show me round bombay the next day and "learn about scotland". I said ok but knowing to be wise, and went up to sleep.


After an OK sleep I got up and had a look around. I wasnt hassled once, was I still in India? I thinking. All the buildings are impressive structures and loads of it looks like London other parts rome and other parts france. Plus the bombayees werent all in standard indian dress, they wore fake calvin klein and levis! haha, I quite liked it and thought it would be a good idea to stay here for a wee bit and thought 1 week was a good idea as I could spend xmas here, new year in goa. So as I went to the ticket office to enquire, they told me window 52 is the foreigners reservation window, but that theres no chance of going to goa on the 26th as this is the time everyone is going to goa and itl be booked up.
I went to 52 in hope rather than expectation and asked for sleeper class to goa on the 26th. He gave me a look of "you'l be lucky" and typed in his computer to check availability. He then told me after a few clickings on the mouse that there is 1 seat left available on the 11"45pm train to goa in sleeper class. The last train of the day (theres 3 which go to goa) but I need to pay for it in dollars. 8 dollars. I dont have dollars, I dont have any currency apart from rupees. I asked where I can xchange my rupees for dollars and he told me at any bank but then told me to hand over 300 rupees. 2 seconds later I had my sleeper class ticket to goa for 293 rupees! for the day i asked for! 26th! get in there.... "this is not supposed to, this is help" Superb... I shook his hand and off I went to get some bananas and a bombay burger.

I returned back to the hotel at 12, and just as I got there that "suspicious" lad who helped me yesterday came up about 2 mins after I arrived. He said he would show me round bombay and all the tourist sites. I was suspicious but didnt have any bags on me and my money belt is under my jeans so was quite happy to go along. I went round the whole of bombay, walked round just about every district and it took about 4 hours, he even payed for some chais although i payed for eating at a cafe but that was only about 100rs. I got a tour and learned about the bad spots and rich parts, not to mention the stoner spots where people openly smoke ganja in pipes made from palm tree leaves. He smoked some and was eager for me to try the bombay ganja but I declined as was trying to stay clean off the ganja for a while after smoking myselfe stupid in himachal pradesh for well over a month. "well I cant force you", no you cant son.

I was by now shattered as the heat was getting to much for me, so at about 5 I went back to my hotel to sleep. He told me he would come and get me at 7 to go to the harbour to get a boat trip round bombay bay and smuggle whisky on board (no drink allowed) Sounded not a bad idea so I agreed. I went for a rest but couldnt sleep as even with my fan on it was roasting hot.... then at 6.30 went for something to eat. I then proceeded to get lost in bombay and didnt get back to my hotel till 7.30

The receptionist (who along with the taxi driver told me to be careful of this guy) told me he'd been twice, and had bought tickets to a show costing 500rs... I had thought after out earlier mission this lad was a genuine and felt a bit wide for not being there at the required time..... Anyway, at 8 he returned and we got a taxi down to the bay..

But he had no tickets. (lie no1) He told me on our tour of bombay that his mum and dad live in gujurat and send him 200 dollars at the start of every month for him to live in bombay, as hes a student. Theyre profession is polishing rough diamonds and selling them on at a profit. Theyre apparently not rich but middle class and live well, he tells me. In the taxi, he told me that "ive met him at the wrong time". Basically, at the moment, hes got hardly any money, and wont have any till the 24rth, when his mum and dad send him 200 dollars extra this month for enjoying xmas. And whatever I spend on him will be re-imbursed when his xmas money comes. "infact you can write it down, whatever you spend il give you back, its trust you know?" haha...... He then said he had piles and the half bottle of rum I had left (the only bottle not smashed) from diu was too strong and not good for him, so could we get beers instead.... of course, me paying. but remember I get re imbursed. As we left the taxi at about 8.30, we were walking towards the beer shop when I let him go infront of me, and just walked off down a side street back to the hotel, the original warnings were obviously correct observations. Its hard to navigate bombay at night though as everything looks different and I think I went in a circle, there he was! "What happned man? where are you going?"... me: "im sorry if i am wrong and your telling the truth, but i dont trust you, your not getting any money" ... :"What happned man? you can tell me! just tell me? what did someone say to you?" me:"I dont trust you. GO AWAY!" ....:"OK OK but just tell me why, did someone say something to you?" me:"NO I just dont trust you, GO AWAY!" ..... :"OK OK, but I am in the mood for drinking beers, just by me a few bears, I'l go" me:"YOUR FULL OF SHIT, FUCK OFF, I SAID GO AWAY, GET TO F*CK!" (that last bit he said really pissed me off) He scarpered after that and I have never seen him again. thank god. The little shit. I returned to the hotel and they were eager to know why im back so early, I told them, and they were not surprised!

Anyway that was the 2nd day in bombay, this is the 5th. For the rest of the 3 days I've joined a gym (250rs a day, no cheap, but neither is bombay... but at 3 quid a day its alot cheaper than a scottish gym) so been there a few times, gone to elephantanta island, just wandered about seeing stuff and speaking to the couple who I met in diu! that is unbelievable. I was in diu, 1000km away, speaking to the same australians I meet in a bombay street, while getting a shave (5rs) 3 days later. This happned in mcleod with an english couple from the lake district who then followed me to dalhousie, maybe MI5 has got word on my hash tour of Himachal and have sent spys checking im not doing any big deals

Thats 12 days with no buckets now, quite an achievement, I was craving a smoke yesterday and the day before but didnt give in. Im off it for now and maybe indefinitely. Not sure. Might be a good thing.

Anyway adios I'l try and report back in a week or 2
KIERAN!

scotsman

posted it twice by accident, cos when i returned to hp it wasnt there, and considering i spent an hour writing that (an copyd it) i pasted it again to post it, but on another bit, it is there... weird well i hope it is saved cos ive spent over an hour typing!

drewgon

after checking back on this like each week, im starting to wonder if this kid is still alive O_O

grizzlyofalaska

Hope he is ok, I am back in UK now still contemplating what i got back with me. Many lose themself in India; those who look for good weed and cheap nightlife

Scotsman's mum

I've registered to reassure people that Kieran is alive and well. He should be in Little Andaman right now, hopefully after a better trip than the one to Port Blair! (He is prone to seasickness at the best of times.) He tells us that he'll be incommunicado for a while as there won't be any email facilities where he's going, but I'll leave it to him to give all his news when he next posts. You won't be surprised to hear that he has lots! He plans to spend some time in the Andaman Islands, but that may well change.

ravips29

Thanks for the update, Mum! Glad to hear Scotsman's okay. Can't wait to hear about his travels.

Nick-H

Many thanks for passing in the news

So... when's your India trip going to be?

Hope being here on the site tempts you

Or maybe you're an old hand already....

__________________
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Just one member of the IndiaMike Mod Team

gekko

What keiran is doing is pretty amazing in many ways. 20 is not the age many come out of the parental shell. Not in India at least. So making it alone across India is pretty adventurous. Being from Himachal and an Indian. I know how we end up stereotyping people, places etc etc. And, as baffling and confusing India is for foreginers, it is more so for an Indian.
While there might be crooks and touts around, Indians are also usually friendly with foreigners, but being on a guard is always advisable. No wonder in the regions of himachal I have come from, foreigners have an easy way mixing out with people and staying, eating etc.

I think after this trip, Keiran should probably write the whole trip down in a small book. Right from the start. It should be a an interesting and humorous read. And no one in here doubts his ability to draw people in the environment where he is writing from. Looking forward to hear more about it. Keep us all posted.

Regards,
Gekko

scotsman

Hello eeeeeveryone. Apparently I'm famous I can live with that

I have little time left but can say i am in the Andaman Islands in Port Blair. Im leaving for calcutta on the 13th which is severely annoying as i wanted to stay longer but the shipping schedule has made it impossible for me to stay longer if I want to catch my Delhi flight.

Ive been here about 20 days and been to Little andaman where you really see the destruction of the tsunami. In many places along the shore ane even as much as 500m in land there is foundations where a building once stood, with iron poles coming out of the ground and you walk 100 metres further inland and see a pretty big concrete building in ruins. Wasnt a touristy island but it had big waves and i nearly got swept away one day! i was shouting "MICHAEEEL MICHAEEEEL, HELP HELP HELP!" a friend of mine whos girlfriend is a nurse and helped me out when some of my sores turned to open infected wounds (long story dont have time) but he couldnt hear me! luckily 30 minutes of very powerful breaststroke and i made the 150 metres to the shore

Stage 3 sunburn also on Landaman (only really bad sunburn ive had in india!) but the indian medicines are very good...

Then went to neilisland, which has some outstanding coral reef where you can snorkle. Ive stilnot snorkled as L andaman hasno snorkelling and my wounds were too infected to go into the sea... considering it was the only reason i came here in the first place is annoying

I leave on tuesday (saturday today) and am going to wandor tomorrow, a marine protected park also with amazing snorkelling. Unfortonately I have no time to goto havelocks beach no7 which was voted the best beach in asia in "times magazine" but at least il be able to snorkle. The amoxycillin anti biotics and anti inflamatorrys seem to be working. Wandor is only 1or 2 hours from Port Blair (where you get ship)

Too little timeto type

I'm writing a little indiamike story in a notepad ive beendoing for the past 4 or 5 days and i will finish it within a week or so I imagine, but its hard to put 3 and a half months of indian adventures into just a few pages..... i might write it in Varanasi (where i go next after a day or so stopover in calcutta) but if not il post it when im back in scotland (march 1rst)

after bombay i went togoa for 2 days (fucking expensive!!!!!) but considering it was new year i suppose i only have myselfe to blame, id have liked to gone back but dont have time.... however the 8 days in kerala were quite relaxing and i went on a backwater villiage tour. Then chennai which i found a bit of a stinking city to be honest in more ways than one but was also good in some ways........ then came here but theres lots to say but i just dont have time! it takes 4 days to sail to calcutta and i am a bit scared - cos of my experience from chennai to andaman. I nearly died of food poisoning and seasickness on that vessel, they had to get the nurse out her bed to give me a concoction of drugs which made me hallucinate (il give more detail but not now) but theres allways folk to help you here if you are in any trouble. Indians and travellers.

What else can i say in 5 minutes.. ahh yeah considered God and am opento the idea but after a brief belief (sat in a church and other temples for hours asking god to reveal himselfe to me!) have come to the conclusion its not a bad thing but is not a true thing, and these religious experiences you could call them have changed me in a very positive manner - especially the dalai lama teachings.. that was something i will allways remember and if i ever feel down i remember someof the things he said and the friendly monks....
India is religious ferver,theres no doubt about it. But theres more to it than that and it grows on you.... Dont know if I'l be back though. Some people have been here 10 times....

Here is quite a different ballgame to the mainland though, it still has an idnian feel but is a totally tropical place with different climate smells and the ocean is also very different. When you look in a rockpool in kerala you see a few crabs and mayeb a few minnows. You look in a rock pool here you see an aquarium! neon fish, yellow fish, stripey fish.....and there is a huge population of sea snakes too. Ive not seen any but most people have (there is a reason for this il explain in detail when i get a chance) one was in the toilet of my bamboo hut resort on neil island 2 days before i came, and in other resorts they were in peoples huts and rooms!

Need to go in about 1 minute

Cant think of aqnything else (knackered got up at 6 this morning to get ready pack have breakfast and make sure i got the 9am ship from neil to Port Blair)

Good bye for now- more to follow... i can assure you
regards
kieran

gekko

Good to hear back from you Scotsman and good luck with the rest of the trip. Once you return to Scotland, after long and are rested and everything. It would be nice if you bring together the whole travelogue back alive when you have more time to brood over it, when nostalgia sets in... which eventually will. So, that we will be waiting for. Meanwhile, good luck soaking the Indian winter sun.
Regards,

Nick-H

Welcome back to IM

We hugely look forward to your future reports

drewgon

yes, cant wait to here the rest :P

himadventures

scotsman ! you are famous and we all wanted to see you happy and safe.I am sure someday you willbe writing a book on your india experience.
From Parvati valley to dharamshala and then down to south...i am sure you had amulti-dimensional experience of this huge country.

Take care !

scotsman

Well I am leaving today - tomorrow morning at 6.55 but as will be leaving my pahara gange hotel at around 3am tomorrow morning it feels like tonight.

There is alot I have learned here in India and it really was a great idea to come - its a different world to Scotland (and spain so most likely all of europe ((ive not been))

From the parvati valley - diu daman - bombay - goa - kerala - chennai - andaman & nicobar - calcutta - varanasi and back to delhi where I originally started. 4 Months ago! Where has the time gone?

I dont think I will be able to write a book as it takes me so long Ive wrote 10 big pages and am still on the first week - ive given up.I will however make a point of writing smaller notes on the things which have stood out on this trip and things I have learned about life - that is what its taught me the most - This has in no way been a holiday! but it has been something which will last with me all my life.

my kindest regrads to everyone and I will get onto the notes which could prove valuable to other people who are interested in doing something similar to me - and I say do it... soon (within a week or 2 I aim)

Styler

Hi Scotsman,

All the best for your life. I hope the experiences you have in India have been pleasant and you will be going back with a lot of different and new views about life, which you could have got only in India.

Styler