Kinnaur, Lahul & Spiti

#1 Oct 10th, 2003, 23:11
Join Date:
Jun 2003
Location:
italy
Posts:
52
Send a message via ICQ to haji
  • haji is offline
#1
Just 2 days ago I ‘ve turned back from a wonderful trip in Kinnaur (Spiti & Lahul) and some of you could appreciate recent info about these places :

1) Arrived in Delhi, I met the Namaste India tour driver previously mailed that gave me train tickets and took me at railway station. Their service was on time, honest on price and right about reservation, so you can keep in touch with them anything you need (inquiry@namasteindiatours.com . or lapb@excite.com)
2) The Himalayan Queen was very good , but I could’nt stand the toy train from Kalka to Shimla : really boring and absolutely lacking of charme !
3) In Shimla I stayed at hotel Deogar , quite good, for 600 rs best room. The manager tries to cheat (like almost everywhere) on charging luxury taxes without any receipt, ask for that if he insists for taxes. From Shimla I rented a taxi to Sangla via Sarahan : totally 10h and 2.800 rs : such a road !
4) Sangla was just a “yard under construction” and I did ’nt like it. It was the only place in Kinnaur where you could change currency ($ cash) for a little fee (-5% than usual) . The hotel Kailash has expensive rooms for 700 rs, very wide and clean, TV, hot shower, etc. Baspa GH was full for 350 rs, but a Belgian couple told me that it was noisy and the manager increased prices day by day, depending on request. Alternatively you could choose Sangla Resort, good position, for the same 350 rs. Chitkul was nice , the accomodation is basic, so better stay in Sangla and visit Chitkul by bus (1h), like I did.
5) From Sangla to Rekong Peo/Kalpa the bus runs quite often and it takes just 3 h. Best hotel in Kalpa is the HPDC , extremely overpriced for 1.200 rs. Shivalik Hotel is basic for 500 rs, a better choice is the new Chini Bungalow for the same price. Shared taxis run up and down between Kalpa and R.Peo (10 rs) A good choice in Peo is Shivling View GH for 275 rs, well located. The best dinner I had in Kinnaur it was in Peo at Vikas restaurant, excellent food and service as well : is situated just opposite the office where I ‘ve got the Inner Line Permit (2h, 3 pictures, 50 rs).
6) From Peo I rented a car to reach Nako (1.700 rs), the bus leaves at 7 am from Peo to Tabo, but I rented a car because I wanted to see the Khanum gompa, just 1h above Spillo and really it was worth. The gompa is very old and very, very beatiful.
7) The half-day journey ended in Nako, where the new, wonderful hotel Reo Purgil was just open. An excellent balcony room 40 mq, with well-furnished toilet and anti-toilet costed only 400 rs and I felt like a Raja. The lake is a pond but the village is very nice with its wooden rooms-temples.
8) A taxi to Yangtang/Mailing from Nako was 150 rs, and the famous “basket trip” was the frightful thing never did in my life.
9) After the landslide the bus leaves to Tabo from 2 to 3 p.m., but you can find a good accomodation just 2 km before Chango (hotel Garden view) on the river side.
10) Tabo is fine and the good Gompa GH costed only 300 rs. If you need something really nice a new Resort ‘s been just opened 200m from the gompa, on the road to Kaza.
11) In Kaza I stayed in the excellent Sakya Abode for 600 rs, hot shower, TV, garden, ecc. Many travellers prefer overnighting in Kibber, that is a really pretty village but very small. In Kaza I rented a full day taxi for 1.800 rs (Dankhar, Pin Valley, Ky & Kibber)
12) From Kaza 2 busses per day leave to Kullu (10h) 4.a.m and 7.a.m.. The first one is much better, ‘cause you can book the seat the day before ; obviously I took the second one and I was squeezed as usual. I left the bus at Patalikhul, half on the way Manali-Kullu, the nearest stop to Naggar. There the Castle Hotel was ok for 1.200 rs, after 2 days it was full booked, so I moved to Ragini hotel that I loved the best : just 300 rs for an excellent room with balcony and great view, also their restaurant is quite good.
13) I found Naggar a very nice choice, outside the overcrawded and busy Manali or Kullu, that you can anyway reach in a short time.
14) The overnight bus from Manali to Delhi leaves at 5.00 p.m. and takes 15h. In Paharganj an amazing new : hotel Shelton in main bazar offers nice A/C rooms with TV and fridge for 750 rs. The restaurant on the top is nicer than good, but, generally, it deserves a breakfast.

Good choices :
 Changing a lot of currency on arriving at Int. Airport in Delhi , if you do not need it you can change it back for just a fee.
 Taxi from R.Peo/Kalpa to Nako via Khanum, wonderful gompa
 Staying in Naggar instead of Manali or Kullu

Bad choices :
 During this late season it ‘s better to do a reverse trip, because the road from Kaza to Manali could be closed any moment, from Kaza to Peo the road is open all the year long.
 Taking the later bus from Kaza to Kullu.

Any more info you need mail me haji@interfree.it or send me a private message or ICQ 283035029
#2 Oct 22nd, 2003, 07:31
Join Date:
Aug 2001
Location:
.
Posts:
1,571
  • -m2- is offline
#2
Thanks for the excellent report, haji, lots of useful and interesting information; I was away for a few days when you posted and didn't see it until now. Glad things worked out well, and I'm sure Namaste India Tours appreciates your positive comments.
#3 Feb 28th, 2004, 02:47
Join Date:
Feb 2004
Location:
London
Posts:
4
  • Farce Adentus is offline
#3
Thanks for all that info Haji.
It will be coming in most useful as Im about to head out that way
#4 Feb 28th, 2004, 08:12
Join Date:
Jul 2003
Location:
Nashik, INDIA
Posts:
4,096
  • SHIMLA is offline
#4
Very good inputs, Haji. Normally very little first hand information is available on these areas.
Whoever said money can't buy happiness didn't know where to shop !
#5 Mar 18th, 2004, 16:12
Join Date:
Mar 2004
Location:
Punjab
Posts:
12
  • wanderlust is offline
#5
haji, it must have been cold huh???? the kunzum is open again, thats good to hear.... i can add a few tid-bits to this, if in spiti do not miss out on chandratal in upper lahul... amazing amazing, and far away from anything u may have experienced.. but be prepared take tents and travel like a trekker, this area is special i want to live in kibber and cross the zanskar to follow the silk route to lhasa, maybe some day...... stories of this area warm my heart...
chaos in order
#6 Mar 19th, 2004, 16:42
Join Date:
May 2003
Location:
underground
Posts:
468
  • mountaingirl is offline
#6
Hello HAJI!!!!!

GREAT GREAT GREAT!!!!!

It is REALLY VERY NICE TO PROVIDE FIRSTHAND INFO HERE.....We need more firsthand info like this....congratulations on a good work done!


Wanderlust...I just thought of posing as a shepherd girl myself and go there! maybe someday when I am through with life's basic rigours!
#7 Apr 23rd, 2004, 23:28
Join Date:
Apr 2004
Location:
Pune
Posts:
10
  • ilovehp is offline
#7

Chandratal

Convinced that chandratal is the place to go this summer, we are planning to visit Lahaul-Spiti this summer. Our plan is to have a comfortable 4-day trek to chandratal and continue there-on to Spiti. Has anyone here been there? I have a few questions:

- What is the food scene? Do we need to pack it up all the way from Manali
- How inhabited is the place?
- After visiting Chandratal on foot, we would like to continue the rest of the journey on a vehicle preferably a jeep. What is the closest place from chandratal where we can hire a jeep?

please let me know.
thanks in advance,

psn.
#8 Apr 24th, 2004, 03:07
Veda Chanting & Mantra Yoga teacher
Join Date:
Oct 2003
Location:
body in Mumbai, head in Himalaya
Posts:
2,835
  • AvidTrekker is offline
#8

Thumbs up Chandrataal

Quote:
originally posted by ilovehp
Our plan is to have a comfortable 4-day trek to chandratal and continue there-on to Spiti.
My dear lover of HP, I love HP too. You haven't mentioned your dates. I assume you wanna go in May (school vacations). The Rohtang Pass opens only in June in a regular weather year. (There was a post on IM which said its opened in April this year.... but I doubt that its crossable)

In the event that Rohtang is uncrossable by jeeps in May, you can reach the Lahaul Valley either by crossing Rohtang on foot (deep snow in sections) or by crossing the Hamta Jot Pass (again on foot)(again deep snow in places) The Rohtang crossing will take two days (one if your a sherpa) and Hamta Pass crossing will take four days.

On the other side you can do Chandratal & back in three days, with a short bus ride thrown in (this saves a days walk at least, maybe two days).

My point is, your trek-plan is not as short as you propose (four days). Provide for six days minimum. Jeeps are available on either side of Rohtang Pass but since the season proper has not set in, the rates may be higher.

For crossing over to Spiti, you will again have to foot it out over the snow covered Kunzum La (it opens around 4th to 10th July for all vehicles) to Losar, a two or three day trek.

My notes above all go wrong if your planning the trip in (say) 3rd week of June. Then of course, the passes will be open to vehicular traffic. What is your previous trekking experience? The Rohtang pass/Hampta Pass/Kunzum pass are certainly not for first time trekkers (in May) unless maybe they are marathon runners. All arrangements, food, tentage, kerosene, porters to be made at Manali itself.
The Universe is an ellipsoid?... or a Spheroid?? If the sphere smiles... it becomes an ellipse. This IS Creation.
#9 Apr 24th, 2004, 18:15
Join Date:
Apr 2004
Location:
Pune
Posts:
10
  • ilovehp is offline
#9

Re: Chandrataal

Originally posted by AvidTrekker
My dear lover of HP, I love HP too. You haven't mentioned your dates. I assume you wanna go in May (school vacations). The Rohtang Pass opens only in June in a regular weather year. (There was a post on IM which said its opened in April this year.... but I doubt that its crossable)

We wil be going in late June and first week of July. So that seems to fit in given what you say.


On the other side you can do Chandratal & back in three days, with a short bus ride thrown in (this saves a days walk at least, maybe two days).

In june, we can have a bus to Grampoo or Chhatru, right? We plan to start our trek from either of these locations. How long do you feel would it take us to reach Chandratal from these places? Also are horses/ponies available at these places?

My point is, your trek-plan is not as short as you propose (four days). Provide for six days minimum. Jeeps are available on either side of Rohtang Pass but since the season proper has not set in, the rates may be higher.

Are jeeps available near Kumzum pass as well? And what is the rough charge ... say for a week long trip to Spiti?

For crossing over to Spiti, you will again have to foot it out over the snow covered Kunzum La (it opens around 4th to 10th July for all vehicles) to Losar, a two or three day trek.

Good. That also fits well with our dates.

What is your previous trekking experience? The Rohtang pass/Hampta Pass/Kunzum pass are certainly not for first time trekkers (in May) unless maybe they are marathon runners.

What about in late June? Our group is a mix of novices as well as people with some experience.
#10 Apr 24th, 2004, 21:23
Veda Chanting & Mantra Yoga teacher
Join Date:
Oct 2003
Location:
body in Mumbai, head in Himalaya
Posts:
2,835
  • AvidTrekker is offline
#10

Thumbs up ChadraTaal

ALL arrangements at Manali only! Don't depend on Gramphoo/Chhatru. Carry tents, stove, k-oil, food for the entire trip. Manali to Chhatru bus is available. Its a 2.5 to 3 hour journey. Chhatru to Chandrataal is three days. Back in 2 days. Bus to Kaza (This bus will be jam-packed) Bus journey over Kunzum La reaches Kaza in 5.5 hours. Late June early July should not be a problem for your novice group members. I hope you have some working knowledge as regards acclimatization. If you may, please read this post on acclimatization.: (make your novices read it)

Family trek in Ladakh

HAPPY TREKKING!!!
#11 Apr 24th, 2004, 21:32
Join Date:
Apr 2004
Location:
Pune
Posts:
10
  • ilovehp is offline
#11

Cool Chandratal

Thanks a lot, AvidTrekker.

The garlic thingy is something new for me. Your tips will surely be helpful.

-psn
#12 Apr 26th, 2004, 07:03
Join Date:
Sep 2003
Location:
New York City, USA
Posts:
204
  • rickshawwallah is offline
#12
ilovehp,

While Chandratal is a tremendously beautiful spot, keep in mind that it's not nearly as remote and pristine as it once was. There has for several years been a road that leads right to the lake.

The trek is still beautiful and rewarding, but don't be surprised if you share the lakeshore with a few jeeploads of more casual visitors.
#13 Apr 26th, 2004, 15:51
Join Date:
Apr 2004
Location:
Pune
Posts:
10
  • ilovehp is offline
#13

Unhappy

That's bad. Do jeeps go right upto the lake? I heard these are only allowed upto some 4 km from the lake. I hope we don't have accost too many casual visitors there.

-psn
#14 Apr 27th, 2004, 06:53
Join Date:
Sep 2003
Location:
New York City, USA
Posts:
204
  • rickshawwallah is offline
#14
The road goes to within a couple hundred meters of the lakeshore or closer. I've even seen jeeps go "off-roading" right up to the water. If the road has been wiped out or a gate placed 4 km. before the lake, that is a new development.

About the 3-day trek that avidtrekker describes from Chattru to Chandratal:
the first two days (up to Batal) are on a fairly heavily travelled road which is the primary "highway" of the area (the road to Kunzam La and Spiti). It's a lovely valley, but you will share your path with buses and trucks if the road is open. On the third day, you follow a much smaller side road that branches off toward Chandratal, and even that smaller road can be avoided for most of the route by taking alternate paths.
#15 Jul 13th, 2004, 20:54
Join Date:
Apr 2004
Location:
Pune
Posts:
10
  • ilovehp is offline
#15

Thumbs up Had a wonderful time

Thanks Avidtrekker and rickshawwallah for all your tips. We had a really wonderful couple of days camping at Chandratal. As mentioned on this thread, there were couple of jeeps everyday right upto the lake (sadly!!). Though very few of them used to halt for the night. There is a dhaba out there, amazingly expensive though. Check out the attached picture of the lake for those who haven't been there.

-psn
Attached Images
chandratal-small.jpg 

Similar Threads

Title, Username, & Date Last Post Replies Views Forum
from Shimla to Kinnaur & Spiti Jun 7th, 2012 20:32 5 5892 Himachal Pradesh
From Delhi to Leh: Kinnaur, Spiti, etc or not? Aug 3rd, 2005 08:41 5 3524 Himachal Pradesh
kinnaur to Spiti to Ladakh on foot May 30th, 2005 19:02 2 2761 Himachal Pradesh
Kinnaur, Lahaul & Spiti Aug 6th, 2004 01:45 0 3085 Trekking and Mountaineering in India
Are Kinnaur and Spiti worth visiting Apr 29th, 2002 08:17 1 2033 Himachal Pradesh


Posting Rules

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Forum Rules»
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.3.2
© IndiaMike.com 2017
Page Load Success