Khadrala-Khanag-Shoja sojourn

Alone in the woods

Tired of the grind of monotonous office life, I said enough is enough and planned a 3 days vacation in my native state – Himachal.
I head off to Shimla - my hometown, take a day’s rest and head off to Khadrala in Rohru valley in Shimla.

10/Aug/2008.

Khadrala is really not a tourist destination by any means. But a place to dwell in mountains where u can leave mind behind and open up your heart.
Located in Rohru valley at an altitude of 9,500 feet, very close to Narkanda/Kotgarh area.
Reach Narkanda from Shimla on Hindustan Tibbet road. Take a link road from Narkanda towards Baghi(15 kms). Baghi itself is quite a beautiful place at 9K+ feet. Another fruit bowl in this region where apple rules. Sort of situated at top of the valley.

From Baghi to Khadrala(9kms) is a beautiful dirt track where u will be riding on top of valley and valley providing its view for miles around and equally breathtaking view miles below. Breathe in the air, take hold of the view and relax.
I reach Khadrala in the evening. Had booked a room in Forest Rest House (Refer URL below). Place has a PWD Rest house as well.
Chowkidar/guard was a real nice fellow. I take him along and arrange for liquor/mutton.
Night it gets cold there and chowkidar offers to light up the fireplace in my room. Things heat up and I start relishing the warmth of fire,drinks n mutton. Makes my day here.


11/Aug/2008.










I pack my bags and leave Khadrala at around 10:30 in the morning. Had my booking for the night at Rest House Khanag, 7 kms. from Jalori Pass.But wasn't sure whether to ride upto Khanag as Indian monsoons were in full fury in the month of August. Two concerns loomed large in my mind.
First was the fear of landslides owing to some of the heaviest rains in recent years. Though I was assured that landslides here don't take more than 2-3 hours to clear up. Second fear was the rising water level of Satluj which one has to cross while reaching Jalori Jot from Rampur side. Satluj has played havoc in that area in recent years, taking toll of many human lives and this weather just seeme
too risky to cross Satluj.
However I said my prayers and started off from Khadrala. Khadrala to Narkanda via Baghi took around 1.5 hrs. And from there you shoot off on to the great Hindustan Tibet road. Now this is a beautiful ,wide stretch of road on the hills and has its place in the history. From here till Kingal n Sainj(39 kms. from Narkanda) is one lovely ride every biker wishes for. Fortunately the weather did hold up and was a clear blue sky that day.
At Sainj I took a halt. I could see a decent looking hotel and stooped there for my lunch. U can get the first close glimpse of Satluj here to get the feel of the trip. Had my lunch there and started to Khanag still around 50 kms further.
From Sainj take left to Luhri(2 kms. from Sainj), head straight for Rampur. Luhri is entry point of Outer Seraj valley in Kullu distt.
Cross the bridge over Satluj. Take left for Jalori Jot and straight for Nirmand.

Now the landscape starts changing here. U have to ride alongside Satluj for about 10 kms. which may be definitely very pleasant in summers. But in monsoons with Satluj roaring in full fury, its quite a different tale. The view of Satluj at this time is thrilling as well as sends chills upon ur spine. So the best thing to do is to savor the flavor till it lasts and get off Satluj quickly for your own safety. Once u leave behind Satluj, you have another surprise in store for you. U suddenly start taking a decent ascent and now u can see beautiful flat fields for a few kms. This is a beautiful stretch which one will enjoy definitely
From here Jalori/Khanag is around 30 kms. and u now start taking a stiff uphill climb. U are taken high atop the hills on a narow single lane road(but metaleed and in good condition) which demands caution for a while. Stationed high there, the scenery is beautiful with a local stream flowing deep down below. One can find a lot of roadside chai stalls/tea kiosks. Make a point to stop there. Have a tea and soak in the lap of nature and set the mood for rest of the journey.
Unfortunately just 10 kms behind Khanag, it started raining. I waited at the tea shop till the showers stopped.

Finally reached Khanag rest house(only place to stay there, get ur bookings done in advance, URL given at bottom).
U will get a decent room here for Rs. 200. U can easily find a customary liquor shop. If u wish take chicken (as I did) for urself and chowkidar/guard and he will cook it for u. Enjoyed a good night’s sleep there.






12/Aug/2008.
Jalori Jot is around 7 kms from here and you are taken up from an ascent of 8500 ft. to 12500 ft.
Forests, fog surround and the view becomes mystic.
There might be a few landslides here during rains. So drive carefully as u may have to cross some muddy slippery patches and streams of water at some places. But all it takes is a bit of caution and wisdom, nothing else.
At Jalori take a stop for tea/b’fast. U will find 3-4 dhabas and a temple also. U can get a good view of the valley there if the sky is clear.
From here Shoja(Famous tourist destination in Seraj valley in Kullu distt.) is around 7-8 kms. It’s a steep descent now. Though the rood is not metalled here but easily drivable. At Shoja again refreshingly the landscape changes suddenly and a valley starts taking shape. U will get stiff hills here with a gradually opening valley in the horizon. Places to stay here are PWD/Forest rest house and some local guest houses.


I didn’t stay here but instead headed off for Ghayaghi/Jibhi around 7-8 kms from Shoja.
Its still a descent amongst the cedar forests till u catch up local stream alongside and reach Ghayaghi.
Here I stopped for Breakfast at Shringi Vatika - a local guest house/restaurant. Had a real good b’fast here, really good aloo paranthas, egg bhurji and Ginger tea with nice river facing view. The sound of the stream reverberating all aound n cedar forests are soothing enough to take u to a different land altogether. No wonder it is inhabited with foreigners all around the year as the place is so meditative, so calm n so pure.
Shringi Vatika was a bit costly as the cheapest rooms started at Rs. 350. I had already started running out of cash and there were no ATM’s to be seen around. So I asked a local person for a cheaper stay. He suggested Dolly guest house at Jibhi just a mile away.


Thankfully I got a lodge there for 220 bucks. It’s a nice wooden lodge. Really good, clean rooms and a nice bathroom with running hot water. Makes for a perfect stay at a cheap budget. The place has a nice cafeteria downstairs where u will get good Indian/foreign food at cheap prices. If possible try to take a room facing river. Had some rest for sometime there and then took my bike and roamed around. Then stepped aside my bike and decided to go on foot for a stroll which is really the best way to travel. Just take an aimless stroll and u can easily walk for hours alongside the forests. If possible try to stay for a couple of days and only then the valley will slowly reveal its beauty to you.


“A city is like a capricious woman: she takes time to be seduced and to reveal herself completely.“ – Paulo Coelho.
So take ur time. Stay for a while, soak in the beauty before u really make ur stay worthwhile.

Useful URL’s
http://hppwd.gov.in/Rest%20Houses.htm – Booking for PWD rest houses
http://himachalecotourism.com/rest_houses.html - Booking for forest Rest houses
http://hptdc.gov.in/custsw/viewuser8.asp - HPTDC Online Hotels Reservation System
http://himachaltourism.gov.in/hotdir/hotdisp.asp - Himcahal tourism – Hotels directory

bArFaNi

Hey

Nice writeup.. I been to Baghi.Hatkoti,Rohru several times. Its really a beautiful place. And Jalori.. I am ready anytime to do this pass..

cheers !!

__________________
Vivek - Delhi

Barfani bAbA
My Bread & Butter

spicetrekker

Hey thanks for sharing your experiences

Balvar

great write up dear, i was also there in rampur valley at the same time (mid Aug), rains were certainly very this time on.

__________________
Reagrds,
Balvar

indiansups

Hi,

Do you have contact number for Dolly guest house at Jibhali? If so please share with me, how many people can stay at that guest house?

Nice information and maps, definitely useful for me while planning my trip here.