Wanting Update for Bhuj - Kutch & Ahmedabad

Shanti Sheila

Following a nice long yoga stint in Mysore in March/April, I am having a couple of weeks in Gujarat (my favorite state) and specifically Bhuj and surrounds. Went there for the first time in late 2007 - and found it magical and as a textile junkie - it has no equal.
I have read recent posts regarding hotels - and would appreciate any updates of do's and don'ts, but also any experiences of having any textile, embroidery lessons, and any tips on great hidden away shops, villages - traditional jewellery, textiles - just love their creativity. I am a semi budget traveller - am happy to splurge here and there on great experiences.
I have such fond memories of Bhuj - I only want to enhance them. Haven't been to Mandvi - but want to go. Last visit went to a few villages, but would love to hear about anything extra ordinary.
I am travelling alone, but I am fairly adventurous and have been to India 4 times - Gujarat the same.
Would value any suggestions.
PS New Zealand just beat Australia in a one dayer - my favorite team is India!!

Krutarthsinh Jadeja

Hello Sheila,

Welcome to Kutch. Some fifteen years back a senior french couple spent a Christmas in Kutch and ever since then i think they have always been here for Christmas. So you are one more person who has fallen for Kutch.

If you are into textile and embroidery i suggest you should also be in touch with Judy Frater of Kalaraksha Kendra. She has a school at Tunda Vandh close to Mandvi and workshop at Sumrasar north of Bhuj. Also visit hodko further north of Bhuj (special permission required from police)for the banni areas. Bhujodi for shawls. Dhamadka for aajrakh. Bhadli for tie and dye. Mundra and Mandvi for saris. Infact everywhere you will get a distinct flavour.



Warm wishes from Kutch

krutarthsinh

Aussie Meher

Hi Shanti Sheila,

I'm also an Aussie with an absolute love (my husband calls it an obsession!) for Indian textiles. We're currently in Chennai but will be heading up north in mid July and I'm hoping to visit the Kutch region as I've heard it's awesome for crafts. I'd love to hear more details about your trip and must-see stops to see printing / dying etc in action and unique shops. Also, are the crafts you saw there all available in the more touristy areas of Rajasthan? Seeing Bhuj is quite far west, I want to be sure it's totally worth going there before I drag my husband there!

Thanks so much,

M

Shanti Sheila

After my second trip to Bhuj I can tell you it is for me the best place in India - love it. People are really fantastic and the city of Bhuj is really relaxed and you can just wander around without hassle and there is plenty to see. It is also really cheap and yes textiles are everywhere. However to get the most out of it and some great textiles I recommend going out to some of the villages. This trip I spent most my time around Bhujodi - and in fact did some embroidery classes with a Harijan family, all organised by Mr P J Jethi who is the curator at Aina Mahal. Also bought some beautiful Rabari textiles from a family in Bhujodi, being a real Rabari textile fan. The family were really lovely - very traditional. It is really like stepping back in time - the pace of life is wonderful. Also recommended in Bhujodi is the rug and shawl makers, beautiful scarves and shawls - again all organised with Mr P J Jethi - and driven around in a rickshaw by Bharat - a great driver/guide. We also visited a Jat village, very poor but delightful people and did a few other bits and pieces.
My previous trip I visited more northern villages, some needing a permit, easily obtained in town. Again highly recommended, and organised by Mr Jethi. Villages specialised in different things from textiles, to bells, to pottery - all beautiful, all fantastic.
I can certainly provide more details if you need them, from where to stay and eat, to possible overnights etc. in villages, to people you must see/visit, phone numbers etc. I can say it will be really hot, but in saying that it was 40 C + when I was there and I couldn't have cared. There will be next to no tourists about - always a bonus I think. I will forever return to Bhuj each and every trip as it is the most magical region in all of India of me (that was my fifth trip to India). As you can tell love it and could not recommend it more. As for your husband he will find something of interest I am sure. Just seeing life in a very different traditional way is facinating - so go before it's gone or lost - you'll love it. BTW you can fly from Mumbai direct to Bhuj, or there are plenty of trains - which is a great trip too. An experience not to be missed. Go please!

cameo

Hi ShantiSheila -- I loved reading this post -- your enthusiasm and passion for textiles, the area and its people really comes through.

I also share a love of textiles, and am planning my first trip to Gujarat for November. I already know I'm going to love it there -- really eager to go to some villages and see where some of the bed covers, etc. that I've bought in other parts of the world are made. I will definitely look up Mr. Jethi. I would love to have any and all of your recommendations and details of your trip.

Shanti Sheila

Thanks Cameo - am happy to provide you with any info I can.
One thing you must do if you are visiting Ahmedabad is visit the Textile Museum. There are two tours per day - one in the morning and the other in the afternoon, both covering different parts of the collection. It is a great museum and I highly recommend it, and the guides are very knowledgeable and I have only ever had max 5 in the groups. If you want more details re. this let me know though I am sure it is more than well covered on the forum.

I really love Bhuj - though I am sure you have already figured this. Both times I have stayed at Hotel Gangaram, run by another Mr Jethi. It is not the most spick and span place I have ever stayed, though not bad, and is about Rs 400 a night (fan). Food is ok - snacks, breakfast etc., but I usually walk around the corner in the main bazaar and eat at Green Hotel (food not accom.). There are also many other places to eat, but to be honest I hardly eat much in Bhuj as I am too excited with the textiles, shopping, chatting to locals (you will do lots of that) - so no time for food, but lots of chai. For chai there is a great chai stand on the main drag (Darbargadh Rd) in the main bazaar, it is always open early before anything else and it is a locals hang out - I am a very early riser. If you are in doubt go to a shop on that road - Amrat Silversmiths - they are a lovely family - make beautiful traditional jewellery but with earring posts for western pierced ears, and ask for Jay - and ask where the good chai place is. The whole family are delightful and silversmiths. Anyway back to Gangaram - benefits - it is in town, though if you want slicker accom - try Prince Hotel, though not near the main bazaar. Mr Jethi (Aina Mahal) recommended Annapurna Hotel - basic I believe - check guides, I did not check it out but again away from the main bazaar.
Will post more later - have to go have dinner.

cameo

Wonderful, useful info -- thanks Shanti Sheila.

I've read about the textile museum in Ahmedabad and it's high on my list -- good to know about the tours.

I'm not as hard-core as you about skipping meals to shop, etc., so maybe I can give you a few restaurant tips after my trip. I look forward to anything you care to write about; I'm taking notes --

Aussie Meher

Ladies - thanks so much for your ideas and tips, especially you Shanti Sheila. Like Cameo, I would love to hear all that you have time and energy to share. Can you please post the details of Mr P J Jethi?

Also, I read in the Lonely Planet that there is a family who do block printing that people can stay with. Do you know anything about them? I LOVE block printing and am addicted to Anokhi, but hoping to find some cheaper replicas around Bhuj!

We'll be leaving Chennai next weekend, heading to Mumbai for a few days, then Ahmedabad (to visit the museum) and then we'll hit Bhuj. I'm so excited! From Bhuj we'll probably go to Udaipur. Let me know if you have any suggestions re train travel to and from Bhuj.

Thanks again so much!

AM

Shanti Sheila

Thanks for your replies Cameo and Aussie Meher. There is so much to tell and so much to do it is hard to know where to begin.
With regard to the family who does block print - Dr.Ismail Mohammad Khatri, yes I visited there is 2007, and while his stuff is absolutely divine, and the whole process is very interesting, it is quite different to Anokhi. Mr P J Jethi will usually recommend a visit there.
I should have mentioned Mr P (Promod) J Jethi has written a very comprehensive book/guide to the Kutch region, title Kutch - People and their Handicrafts, as well as some other publications. You can purchase it at Aina Mahal, which incidently is worth a look, as is Durbar Hall, all very close to Hotel Gangaram (2 minute walk away). Mr P J Jethi also lives in the local vicinity. I am not really sure if it is OK to give out his phone numbers and email address (Cameo and Aussie Meher send me a private message and I will do it via that method - unless you know it's already readily available). He will definitely not mind you contacting him, I did so well in advance of my last trip, though first trip I just turned up and he organised everything there and then and nothing seems too much bother. Much like the whole of Bhuj really. He will enquire as to your interests and then tailor accordingly.
2007 I went to several villages some of which required a permit (easily obtained from the Police station/super of police - again he will direct you), and these were reached by car (Ambassador -driver Bharat). But rather than detailing exactly where I went, talk to Mr Jethi about your interests. I went to villages as previously mentioned that made bells, pottery, and textiles including big old quilts, leather work etc. The guide/driver takes you to specific families some with English some without, so I figure on your own via bus, motorbike etc. they would be difficult to find. Also often on the chai stops along the way you will encounter amazing people and experiences.
However I would suggest if time is limited to just go to the closer places like Bhujodi and places near there which again Mr Jethi will organise and you will travel to in an auto with another Bharat - Bharat Jethi - he is a great guy, loves his beedis, and again knows where to take you. My trip this year I spent 2 days with him (one day in 2007). I had really wanted to do some embroidery/mirror work classes which Mr Jethi organised no problem. It was with a Harijan family and their youngest daughter Ganga was my teacher. She had a little English - I had no Kutchi or Gujarati so there were lots of looks by her and the family/women folk of despair in my shoddy work. They would just whip through their stitches and I slowly and badly at that. Practice makes perfect, and if that is all I did most days I am sure I would be a whiz. But a delightful family and all the women did their best to increase or provide me with skills. Needless to say it was a wonderful experience and the opportunity to hang out with a traditional family was priceless (and yes it was very cheap too - embarrasingly so). I have a few photos posted on my blog (to touch is to bind - http://totouchistobind.blogspot.com/
We also visited a Rabari family, some weavers - Arjun and Shamji - Vanjar Vishram Valji - just beautiful stuff - shawls, scarves, blankets, bags, mats - really lovely - and a very nice family. I stayed for lunch - nice guys. There is also a great Ahir family who do beautiful embroidery - again all would be passed by unless you knew where to go. All sell amazing stuff - the work is beautiful and prices very reasonable considering the work and age of some of the pieces. This is all a day trip - pick up about 8.00am - back at 5/6pm - also visiting some other places too but these were the highlights. It is about Rs 1000 for the day - again you can probably organise your own transport but this is hassle free and you will see and visit things of interest to you. We also visited the Jat community - while really out of the way - this was wonderful, very interesting, if not a little sad given their financial poverty (not that of spirit or generosity - beautiful people).
If textiles are what you are interested in - and from both your posts I think you are, Mr P J Jethi is your one stop shop. Yes sure you can probably do it cheaper - but I doubt you will experience as much. And again he can tailor to your needs.
I will post next about some other options, including Mandvi, Hodka, shopping in Bhuj and anything else I think of in the mean time, will check his book - or that you want to know.
Again I love it and am very jealous but pleased you are going - but would love to hear about your adventures and experiences. More later - again need to eat - it's cold here now - wish I was in India - don't eat much there as it's hot and there is too much to do I loose my desire to eat.
Also Aussie Meher - I have visited Udaipur many time (6) and can provide any info you want, and last trip went from Udaipur to Bhuj, though in the end found it easiest to go through Ahmedabad. Let me know if there is anything specific you want to know re travel or Udaipur. Also love Udaipur - great place, sights, shopping and people.

cameo

Again, thank you so much, ShantiSheila, for sharing such detailed, good info -- looking forward to reading your blog. Textiles have been a passion of mine for years, and after many trips to various parts of India, my up-coming trip will include Gujarat for the first time. I think finding a local contact is key to any vision quest, and Mr. Jethi sounds like the real deal, and to have someone who knows the territory is invaluable. Yes, please do PM his info to me.

I've also read a little about Judy Frater's project for women, the Kalaraksha Trust -- not too far from Bhuj, I think. Do you know it?

Udaipur is fabulous and I hope to pass through there after my time in Gujarat. I can recommend the Panorama Guest House as a friendly, comfy place to stay. Cooking classes with the family were a highlight.

Aussie Meher, I've only been to the Anokhi shop in Jaipur but found their textiles to be wonderful, and as you say, expensive. Shanti, are you working on any ebroidery/mirror work now?

Thanks again, Shanti & Aussie, -- I can hardly wait to get there!

Aussie Meher

Cameo, when will you be in the area? It would be fun to be there at the same time and do some of this together! I'll be there around 17-20 July. So soon! I'm guessing you won't be there until a while later?

Thanks for the tip on Panorama. I'll look into it.

And Shanti - you're amazing. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge and passion.

Shanti Sheila

No problems Aussie Meyer. Have messaged both you and Cameo with details.
Not sure what other information you would like - Mandvi is a good little day/half day trip - just take a bus from Bhuj bus station - about Rs25 one way, and a nice little trip. Interesting town - ship/dhow building, also palace that was in Laagan is nearby. Town also famous for tie dye, though I was there on a Sunday and lots of places in the bazaar were closed. I didn't stay and really found the day trip more than adequate. Met a girl who had done Vipassana near here and said it was amazing - beaches out of town nice too, but being Australian also, don't really go to India for beaches and stare factor is also a contributing downer.
If you are crafters/embroiderers (is that a word?) great supplies can be found in Bhuj - on the main drag in the bazaar are some great stores that sell lots of stuff mirrors, and thread is a mere fraction of the cost and I have never seen some of this embroidery thread in Australia. I have yet do do anything since coming home regarding embroidery or mirror work but have a couple of projects planned. Am in the process of trying to teach myself to knit again. Also good tie dye in Bhuj - both in the bazaar and also some workshops. Again Mr Jethi is your source of information on all things Bhuj.
In so far as Kalaruksha - I went there first trip to Kutch, and while at Gangaram last trip met someone a woman who was volunteering there. Again well worthwhile.
Also there is a place you can stay near Hodka - an eco/responsible tourism resort run by the community - it's in Lonely Planet and I had enquired about it but is only open in the cooler months - the name slips my mind but can look at old emails and send you info if you want. Hoping to spend some time in Hodka next time - one of the guys who works at Gangaram promised to take me to his family's village - so always an excuse to go back (as if I need one).
Also make sure you pack some lunch or snacks for your day trips - though food is always easy to find if you are not too fussy or have dietary requirements - I usually take some nuts, fruit and a few bottles of water, and whatever else takes my fancy on the day. Though I am not a big eater in the heat.
Enjoy and let me know if there is anything else.

cameo

Glad to know about purchasing mirrors and thread in Bhuj -- I always like to stock up on those things.

Here's the information I have for Hodka:

"Hodka, 1 hr from Bhuj, sit. Banni Grassland, edge of the great salt desert – the Rann Village is a cluster of houses situated close to each other. 7 to 8 families live in a cluster; famous for various crafts and exquisite silver jewelry; sold directly from their huts, known as bhungas.
Accom at resort Shaam-e-Sarhad, Hodka: Tents and traditional Bhungas, both with attached bathrooms and running hot/cold water. Traditional food is served. Other services like pickup and drop facilities to and from Bhuj, local guides available. US $ 42/dbl, include food, entertainment, tax.

Hodka Endogenous Tourism Project, C/O Kutch Mahila Vikas Sangathan, 15-A, "Ameedhara", Himmat Nagar, Revenue Colony, Bhuj; Email: hodka.in@gmail.com; Tel: + 91 – 2832 – 654124; 4 buses daily. Many options for day trips from the resort."

Shanti Sheila

Yes that's the place - there is a website too I think - try www.hodka.in
Anyway it is only open in the cooler months - something like October to end of March, I had enquired about it and it was definitely not open in April when I was to be visiting - they said it was too hot and no one visits then (it was only around 40 C each day - but I could see how that may effect visitor numbers). Might check it out next time if I'm there at the right time.
There are other options available regarding staying in villages - again Mr Jethi can help you.
And do stock up on thread and embellishments - a fraction of the cost and the variety is awesome.

Aussie Meher

Ladies - thanks again heaps for all of your suggestions. I won't be able to write much again until we finish our travels, but I will certainly post some comments to let you know how we get on. I'm going to email your friend there now to see what he can arrange for me.

Ciao!