Postcards from Arambol

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Since many first-time and regular travellers fit a Goan break into their travels, I thought that a series of pictures from what is still one of the less spoiled areas might be welcome.

I'll start with a few pictures of the general area, then add shots of some of the typical type of accommodations and facilities over the coming weeks so that, eventually, my gallery will present a fairly good idea of what to expect if you decide to visit. Since I'll be around for most of the winter, I'd be happy to try and answer any particular questions. My knowledge of the rest of Goa is neither comprehensive nor up-to-date, and don't bother asking about the parties -- they don't happen here and it's not a subject I'm interested in.

here's a look southward from a restaurant on the cliff -- Hakka noodles and a small Kings, 70rp

m2

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angelika

... they serve kings in glasses?
I always got it in bottles.

I wish I could be there...

Samsara

Looks idyllic.

oldhippie

Looks a lot nicer than Calangute/Candolim. Might be worth heading up that direction instead.

Thanks M2. We really do appreciate your effort effort in uploading any pics in here.

Bill

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Too Many Gandus, Too Few Bullets.

-m2-

always a decision to make, angelika, as to whether it is a good idea to put a marginally cold beer in a warm mug. With meals, I go for the glass

A note on accomodations: As mentioned before, and as illustrated on the cliffside shot, most of the places to stay here are not in hotels or even large guesthouses. families put up little 3 or 4 room blocks on family property and they are often quite basic. Reservations and bookings are largely unknown here -- you show up, walk around, and find something you like. Sometimes this means settling for less than optimum for the night and looking around the next day or two for something better if you intend to stay a while. Basic rooms go for 100rp or less per night with common bathroom. Closer to the water, or a room or hut with a view will run you more, as will an ensuite bath. Further from the village center is quieter, and there are many places scattered southward to the Chapora river, including some rather nice hut places and one or two up-market places that I've never checked out.

For illustration of a popular, well-run guesthouse that's mentioned in the LP, the Ave Maria, has rooms with common bath rooms 150-200rp and ensuite rooms for 300rp. They have a nice roof-top restaurant, no drugs permitted.

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-m2-

a question I received by PM that might be of wider interest.

While no decent coffee is available in Arambol that I know of, the 'T Corner' in Mapusa has excellent Peaberry Estate beans in several quality levels (A, blend, and organic at 180/160/200rp kg) and will grind to order. They also carry a wide selection of bulk teas from the very pricey to more modest varieties. Coffee lovers come from all over north Goa to get their coffee here -- there is also a branch in Margao to serve the south. The filters and filter holder may be more difficult to find -- I bring the winter's supply with me.

Not hard to find, on a street leading back from the market -- the second over from the main square (the State Bank of India is on the first street) it is just across from a petrol pump which happens to have an ICICI bank's ATM in a kiosk beside the office.

picklepak

Hey Mike! Awesome pictures, I am so jealous and am wishing I were there too... two days ago it was -27 Celcius here in Calgary and my good friend from Delhi just arrived for the first time, he's moved here and is getting married. A bit shocking for him, I think, the cold...

Arambol is in my dreams almost every night, as is the rest of India. Have a KF for me!!

I know of some decent coffee in Arambol, just take the path along the cliffs, around the corner and keep going up. Just as you descend, about half-way to the freshwater lake there's a restaurant with a sign that says espresso, and it's pretty good. I've had espresso there twice; the first time the power was out so I ate some breakfast and waited, it's soooo rare to find good coffee in India. Easier than brewing yourself too.

PS the inspiration from my book came from deep in the forest behind the freshwater lake, all the way up to the great banyan tree... that's where the tunnels begin...

Samsara

My father's cousin (? anyway a very close male relative), a neurosurgeon (? something like that anyway as he was Bengali which word of course means "super smart studious type and not Punjabi" in Punjabi. I love Punjabi jokes...) told my parents when they had a choice of immigrating to Canada, don't come here whatever you do, it's too cold (he himself had immigrated to Candada and married a Canadian but he said the cold was a shock).

I could have ended up living in Saskatchewan (where all the coal mines are, my dad being in the coal mining industry). The strange thing was we had tons of relatives in Canada, both Scottish and Bengali, but none in Australia at all, which is where we ended up (both my parents were from very large extended families and I think maybe it was on purpose...).

I love coffee and that guest house looks so relaxing, M2. Maybe, one day, I might make it there!

-m2-

Samsara: were you ever lucky -- the thought of living in a coal-mining area of Saskatchewan is not to be contemplated. The west coast and southern Vancouver island is a different story -- just a little damp in winter.

here's one for you Kelly (if it will load), looking up towards the banyan and the trail to the yellow mud baths. For those who don't know about it, this was an old 'hippy' enclave back in the 80's -- palm frond huts, drums, naked ladies and lots of smoke till the police cleaned it up one year. It was gone before I first visited in '93 but people still talked about 'the olden days'

edit: see if file loads correctly this time

gweno' bribri

Funny about Saskatchewan. Are there no canadians there ?? All the canadian - ukrainian I knew back in Kiev were from Saskatchewan. But then they are used to cold weather

-m2-

here's the pic that didn't show above

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-m2-

couldn't post for a few days, so here's a few items:

-- Anders arrived in Arambol yesterday via Sri Lanka and a few stops travelling up the coast from Kerala with a number of stops -- hope he'll give us a report.

-- my new camera packed it in yesterday, so apart from the shots I've already taken and not posted, I guess that's it. more on this in 'digital camera woes'

-- A new 'pub' opened up a few nights ago on the hillside. turns out someones idea of a pub is ear-splitting techno music which can be heard for many km. it only runs from 5till 10pm but the way goan tile-roofed stone houses act as low-frequency sound receivers, it is even unpleasant to be in my room several km away from the source. It may get shut down -- depends how much they spent on pay-offs and whether they can make any money I guess. Will keep you posted.

- I didn't notice any published numbers of charters to Goa last season, but as I recall there were less than 100 scheduled in '01-02 ( post Sept 11), and they were mainly from the UK, Germany and Holland.

From this morning's paper, 589 charter flights are expected this season!! If the average flight has 200pax, (just guessing) this would total around 118,000 package tourists over the 15 or so week season or around 16,000 guests all season long if the normal charter is 2 weeks. The big surprise to me, apart from the totals, is that 124 of the flights originate in Moscow!

The other cities of origin: London (Gatwick) 182, Manchester 77, Germany (mostly Frankfurt) 57, Amsterdam 48, Brussels 26, Zurich 26, Helsinki 21, Arlenda (Sweden) 11, Copenhagen 11, and Singapore 6.

Looks like Calengute will really be rocking this winter

m2

-m2-

to update some information I passed on earlier this year that readers of old posts might have noticed, the helmet law that was to go into effect in Goa this past year has apparently been scrapped as virtually nobody, tourist or local, is wearing a helmet.


Update on the techno 'pub': much muted from opening night and apparently no business, so things looking up.

season seems to be progressing slowly here -- lots of new 'rooms' added the past year, and the expected increases in traffic hasn't materialized so far. Prices around the same as last year and lots of rooms available from 100rp or so and up.

neoncarrot

m2, FYI I read in the Hindustan Times a few months ago that last year there were 400 charter arrivals in Goa. It was scheduled to be 600 before India and Pakistan started pointing the guns at each other, after which there were en masse cancellations.

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-m2-

--interesting about the charters, so it's not that big a jump from last year's original forecast.

-- while the Mumbai ferry is supposedly starting next week, there are still no ads or info in the papers or at travel agencies.

I've hesitated to recommend my favorite Arambol lodging ..(edit and I've changed my mind about including it here)..