My Addresses in Benaulim

Khandoma · Dec 27th, 2007, 13:10

Namaste Friends,

Here are a few nice places I liked during my few days in Benaulim / Sernabatim, Goa. Thought I'd share. Hope other travellers can add their own.

Beach Restaurants
Well... I said I'd post the addresses I liked. I must say beach food was globally disappointing. High season aftermath maybe ?
Anyway one place I really want to recommend is the Hard Rock Shack.
Don't let the name put you off. It is a very nice small place run by a Goan / English couple, Tinho and Sarah. Location : walk towards Varca, past the Benaulim road / rickshaw stop (Johncy's) and it's a few yards further down. They offer both Goan and English food. Didn't try English but witnessed a discussion where Sarah advocated buying really high quality bacon even at a loss, saying it made a difference for the customers and they would make money elsewhere. Did try Goan food twice, amazed by quality. They claim some of the masalas are homemade in Tinho's family, I'm ready to believe them. Seafood is fresh of the day, you can see it in a basket in ice inside the restaurant. Had great onion pakora there too, not overcooked, not underspiced. Nothing 'hard rock' there really, music is more Brit 70's. They have a few rooms. If you intend to show up in Goa with no hotel reservation, note that Sarah was on her way to put a mattress on her rooftop, and charge around 150 Rs for it including use of shower.

The Little Tiger turned out a good surprise. Was not sure about the crowd, middle-aged to elderly Brits drinking beer and playing pool (and enjoying other local products) and a few lost Russian girls. But the food is really good. Plus, they have two elevated (mezzanine) tables that are lovely for a romantic, secluded sunset dinner. And unquestionably the best choice of music I heard in Benaulim, from great cool jazz to Goa trance to things I didn't identify but enjoyed, on a high quality sound system. Little Tiger is on the way from Benaulim to Sernabatim, somewhat isolated, can't miss it.

Village Restaurants
These two breakfast places beat the beach shacks I tried, as far as breakfast is concerned.
Both are located on the left-hand side as you take the main road from Benaulim beach to the village.

Dinha's, the Restaurant with a Difference. That's what it says on the board. Travellers seem to agree that this is the best breakfast place around. Great food, fantastic fruit salads, coffee served in Italian glass coffee pots (the ones you press), wholewheat bread. And cheap ! For a cheese omelet + a fruit salad w/ curd & honey + two slices of wholewheat bread + a large cup of chai I paid 85 Rs. No need for lunch after that. Pleasant, shaded terrace.

Maria Cafe. This is a hole in the wall located in the first cluster of shops on your left if you come from the beach. Too few tables that you'll end up sharing. Excellent food prepared with care - my cheese omelet came with chopped onions and herbs. Best masala chai in town, I suspect the invisible lady in the kitchen makes her own masala. Slightly more expensive than Dinha's for the same menu (100 Rs). Owner is a really sweet man.

Internet Connexion
0n the left of Maria Cafe is a small travel agency that really is an Internet place. Good quality computers, good connexion, excellent online security, all machines equipped with webcams and headphones, one printer. 40 Rs / hr. And AC !

Hope this helps

Tomkat · Dec 28th, 2007, 09:34

That's helpful Khandoma, thanks. Can you recommend any good accom. experiences there? We can't get a booking in Camilson's.

Khandoma · Dec 28th, 2007, 13:23

Hi Tomkat,

I posted all my hotel reviews in the Hotels section of IndiaMike.

In short, depends which period of the year you are going. If it's right now, as in before NYE, I'd say forget e-mail and web reservations. Grab your bag and walk maybe 10 mn along the beach to Sernabatim. There are a couple of places, like Anthy's and others further up, that may well have rooms left. The better-known places like Furtado's will be packed. But not the other ones : it is a very, very quiet season.

Let me know when you get there and what kind of a budget you have in mind.

Best,

K

Tomkat · Dec 28th, 2007, 14:23

Hey thanks. We get in early Feb. and go straight to Agonda, our favourite , but then we are free for 2 weeks cruisin' by rented motorbike. Gathering some info now.
Cheers

Khandoma · Dec 28th, 2007, 19:16

Sounds very cool !

Depends on the experience you want.
If I'm not mistaken, Camilson's is kinda stuck between places that tend to play loud music rather late, and honestly not too great music either. But if you go and party late at night in Colva you probably wouldn't mind.
Otherwise Benaulim is a rather laidback place. To enjoy complete rest I'd go North a bit towards Sernabatim. Would definitely give the place called Anthy's a try. Nothing extraordinary but constant good appreciation from travellers / clients there.
Have a great trip !

GoanCanuck · Dec 28th, 2007, 19:18

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tomkat

That's helpful Khandoma, thanks. Can you recommend any good accom. experiences there? We can't get a booking in Camilson's.

Camilson's should have rooms available in February without any advance booking.

Tomkat · Dec 29th, 2007, 04:24

No good we tried but they say all full, Canuck. Also emailed Anthy's but they won't take a booking for less than one week.
We'll try whilst there , maybe do better then? Camilson's is quiet at night - only has one other small hotel within range (Xavier's)

the opoponax · Dec 29th, 2007, 04:47

Thanks for the reviews, Khandoma. I'm pretty sure I'm also heading for Agonda, but I'm thinking of spending a night in Benaulim in order to catch an early morning train in Margao. So good to know about breakfasts and such...

One question - is it really hard to find good local food in Goa? Every time I read about food in Goa it seems that mainly European dishes are mentioned. Which is really bumming me out. It doesn't have to be 100% granny's homemade or anything, but I'd like to think I could pick Iddly and Sambar or a Paratha over an Omelet at breakfast, if I wanted.

Khandoma · Dec 29th, 2007, 12:41

Hi, The Opoponax.

I did find it hard to find good Goan food where I was. Hence the Western breakfast - first western food in three weeks and I didn't crave it one bit.

Correction : found it hard to find on the beach. It may very well be that in the village things are different.

Beach restaurants offer a mixed menu where Chinese and Italian and English are prominent - some people do seem to want baked beans on toast in a 35°C weather ! - and Indian food seems to be there mostly for Indian tourists. And in many instances on these beach restaurants I wish to say that Indian food was not good.

So I do recommend the Hard Rock Shack for homemade authentic Goan food. Very limited menu (veg & non veg) but clean, serious cooking. I do, however, advise against such places as Hawaii, famous for seafood and so totally disappointing (seafood not fresh of the day, and vastly overcooked to hide that fact), Furtado's (these guys cater to just too many people), and Johncy's - how can a Goan restaurant make such horrible veg xacuti ? Smaller, less-advertised place are often more serious. Oh, and beware of "naan" and "paratha". Most of the time, cook has no idea what it means and serves the most horrible overcooked shoesoles. In any restaurant. Stick to rice.

I do hope it's different in other places along the coast.

the opoponax · Dec 30th, 2007, 02:05

That's really sad to hear... I will definitely check out Hard Rock Shack if I'm on the beach in Benaulim (not sure if I'll end up just stopping in the village for the night or what). But beans on toast? Are you kidding? In India? On the beach?

the three b's · Dec 30th, 2007, 02:36

Try the Palm Grove. Its a way from the beach (especially Little Tiger), but the walk back settles the head and stomach! The Dacostas are lovely people, beautiful gardens, restaurant one of the best with friendly staff, and although the prices are on the high side for Benaulim, we found it more than worthwhile.

Khandoma · Dec 30th, 2007, 02:37

I kid you not ! Should have taken a picture. On offer in most beach places. You can even find a complete Brit breakfast, with sausages, mushrooms, tomatoes, and eggs any style.
Btw, don't get fooled by this last claim. "Any style" doesn't mean you can order them fried, poached or sunny side up. It refers to the style of the eggs, which will come boiled and fried and overcooked and all over the place. Any style, indeed.

Gimme idli any day...

the three b's · Dec 30th, 2007, 02:43

For eating you might try the 'Malibu'(I know...), goan/flemish couple serving goan and european (not so anglo)food. Their little one speaks a ridiculous number of languages

Dec 27th, 2007, 13:10	#1
Khandoma Gourmet Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Paris Posts: 321	My Addresses in Benaulim Namaste Friends, Here are a few nice places I liked during my few days in Benaulim / Sernabatim, Goa. Thought I'd share. Hope other travellers can add their own. Beach Restaurants Well... I said I'd post the addresses I liked. I must say beach food was globally disappointing. High season aftermath maybe ? Anyway one place I really want to recommend is the Hard Rock Shack. Don't let the name put you off. It is a very nice small place run by a Goan / English couple, Tinho and Sarah. Location : walk towards Varca, past the Benaulim road / rickshaw stop (Johncy's) and it's a few yards further down. They offer both Goan and English food. Didn't try English but witnessed a discussion where Sarah advocated buying really high quality bacon even at a loss, saying it made a difference for the customers and they would make money elsewhere. Did try Goan food twice, amazed by quality. They claim some of the masalas are homemade in Tinho's family, I'm ready to believe them. Seafood is fresh of the day, you can see it in a basket in ice inside the restaurant. Had great onion pakora there too, not overcooked, not underspiced. Nothing 'hard rock' there really, music is more Brit 70's. They have a few rooms. If you intend to show up in Goa with no hotel reservation, note that Sarah was on her way to put a mattress on her rooftop, and charge around 150 Rs for it including use of shower. The Little Tiger turned out a good surprise. Was not sure about the crowd, middle-aged to elderly Brits drinking beer and playing pool (and enjoying other local products) and a few lost Russian girls. But the food is really good. Plus, they have two elevated (mezzanine) tables that are lovely for a romantic, secluded sunset dinner. And unquestionably the best choice of music I heard in Benaulim, from great cool jazz to Goa trance to things I didn't identify but enjoyed, on a high quality sound system. Little Tiger is on the way from Benaulim to Sernabatim, somewhat isolated, can't miss it. Village Restaurants These two breakfast places beat the beach shacks I tried, as far as breakfast is concerned. Both are located on the left-hand side as you take the main road from Benaulim beach to the village. Dinha's, the Restaurant with a Difference. That's what it says on the board. Travellers seem to agree that this is the best breakfast place around. Great food, fantastic fruit salads, coffee served in Italian glass coffee pots (the ones you press), wholewheat bread. And cheap ! For a cheese omelet + a fruit salad w/ curd & honey + two slices of wholewheat bread + a large cup of chai I paid 85 Rs. No need for lunch after that. Pleasant, shaded terrace. Maria Cafe. This is a hole in the wall located in the first cluster of shops on your left if you come from the beach. Too few tables that you'll end up sharing. Excellent food prepared with care - my cheese omelet came with chopped onions and herbs. Best masala chai in town, I suspect the invisible lady in the kitchen makes her own masala. Slightly more expensive than Dinha's for the same menu (100 Rs). Owner is a really sweet man. Internet Connexion 0n the left of Maria Cafe is a small travel agency that really is an Internet place. Good quality computers, good connexion, excellent online security, all machines equipped with webcams and headphones, one printer. 40 Rs / hr. And AC ! Hope this helps __________________ Khandoma Visit my India photo gallery on IndiaMike

Dec 30th, 2007, 02:36	#11
the three b's Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Northampton, U.K. Posts: 40	Try the Palm Grove. Its a way from the beach (especially Little Tiger), but the walk back settles the head and stomach! The Dacostas are lovely people, beautiful gardens, restaurant one of the best with friendly staff, and although the prices are on the high side for Benaulim, we found it more than worthwhile. __________________ frequently bothered & bewildered, but totally.....

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Dec 28th, 2007, 09:34	#2
Tomkat Long Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Australia Posts: 35	That's helpful Khandoma, thanks. Can you recommend any good accom. experiences there? We can't get a booking in Camilson's.

Dec 28th, 2007, 13:23	#3
Khandoma Gourmet Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Paris Posts: 321	Hi Tomkat, I posted all my hotel reviews in the Hotels section of IndiaMike. In short, depends which period of the year you are going. If it's right now, as in before NYE, I'd say forget e-mail and web reservations. Grab your bag and walk maybe 10 mn along the beach to Sernabatim. There are a couple of places, like Anthy's and others further up, that may well have rooms left. The better-known places like Furtado's will be packed. But not the other ones : it is a very, very quiet season. Let me know when you get there and what kind of a budget you have in mind. Best, K

Dec 28th, 2007, 14:23	#4
Tomkat Long Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Australia Posts: 35	Hey thanks. We get in early Feb. and go straight to Agonda, our favourite , but then we are free for 2 weeks cruisin' by rented motorbike. Gathering some info now. Cheers

Dec 28th, 2007, 19:16	#5
Khandoma Gourmet Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Paris Posts: 321	Sounds very cool ! Depends on the experience you want. If I'm not mistaken, Camilson's is kinda stuck between places that tend to play loud music rather late, and honestly not too great music either. But if you go and party late at night in Colva you probably wouldn't mind. Otherwise Benaulim is a rather laidback place. To enjoy complete rest I'd go North a bit towards Sernabatim. Would definitely give the place called Anthy's a try. Nothing extraordinary but constant good appreciation from travellers / clients there. Have a great trip !

Dec 29th, 2007, 04:24	#7
Tomkat Long Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Australia Posts: 35	No good we tried but they say all full, Canuck. Also emailed Anthy's but they won't take a booking for less than one week. We'll try whilst there , maybe do better then? Camilson's is quiet at night - only has one other small hotel within range (Xavier's)

Dec 29th, 2007, 04:47	#8
the opoponax Maha Guru Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Brooklyn, via New Orleans Posts: 1,052	Thanks for the reviews, Khandoma. I'm pretty sure I'm also heading for Agonda, but I'm thinking of spending a night in Benaulim in order to catch an early morning train in Margao. So good to know about breakfasts and such... One question - is it really hard to find good local food in Goa? Every time I read about food in Goa it seems that mainly European dishes are mentioned. Which is really bumming me out. It doesn't have to be 100% granny's homemade or anything, but I'd like to think I could pick Iddly and Sambar or a Paratha over an Omelet at breakfast, if I wanted.

Dec 29th, 2007, 12:41	#9
Khandoma Gourmet Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Paris Posts: 321	Hi, The Opoponax. I did find it hard to find good Goan food where I was. Hence the Western breakfast - first western food in three weeks and I didn't crave it one bit. Correction : found it hard to find on the beach. It may very well be that in the village things are different. Beach restaurants offer a mixed menu where Chinese and Italian and English are prominent - some people do seem to want baked beans on toast in a 35°C weather ! - and Indian food seems to be there mostly for Indian tourists. And in many instances on these beach restaurants I wish to say that Indian food was not good. So I do recommend the Hard Rock Shack for homemade authentic Goan food. Very limited menu (veg & non veg) but clean, serious cooking. I do, however, advise against such places as Hawaii, famous for seafood and so totally disappointing (seafood not fresh of the day, and vastly overcooked to hide that fact), Furtado's (these guys cater to just too many people), and Johncy's - how can a Goan restaurant make such horrible veg xacuti ? Smaller, less-advertised place are often more serious. Oh, and beware of "naan" and "paratha". Most of the time, cook has no idea what it means and serves the most horrible overcooked shoesoles. In any restaurant. Stick to rice. I do hope it's different in other places along the coast.

Dec 30th, 2007, 02:05	#10
the opoponax Maha Guru Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Brooklyn, via New Orleans Posts: 1,052	That's really sad to hear... I will definitely check out Hard Rock Shack if I'm on the beach in Benaulim (not sure if I'll end up just stopping in the village for the night or what). But beans on toast? Are you kidding? In India? On the beach?

Dec 30th, 2007, 02:37	#12
Khandoma Gourmet Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Paris Posts: 321	I kid you not ! Should have taken a picture. On offer in most beach places. You can even find a complete Brit breakfast, with sausages, mushrooms, tomatoes, and eggs any style. Btw, don't get fooled by this last claim. "Any style" doesn't mean you can order them fried, poached or sunny side up. It refers to the style of the eggs, which will come boiled and fried and overcooked and all over the place. Any style, indeed. Gimme idli any day...

Dec 30th, 2007, 02:43	#13
the three b's Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Northampton, U.K. Posts: 40	For eating you might try the 'Malibu'(I know...), goan/flemish couple serving goan and european (not so anglo)food. Their little one speaks a ridiculous number of languages

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