Old Delhi

proxyindian · Jul 24th, 2007, 06:58

We're planning to spend one or two full days in Old Delhi, walking the streets, getting lost, and buying lots of stuff in the market. We were there last year but were mostly rushed along by cycle rickshaw drivers. This time, our hotel will be close by (The Broadway) and we're not going to let any drivers wait for us.

We have the Lonely Planet Old Delhi walks as a starting point.

Of course we're going to be careful.

We plan to eat at Karim's. Any other food suggestions?

Does anybody have any general advice for navigating the Old Delhi streets? What places shouldn't we miss?

Thanks,
Steve

SitaParityaga · Jul 24th, 2007, 07:14

When I saw your post I dug up my list of "places not to be missed" in Delhi the next time around.

You already have Karims on your list. Read about it in Saveur magazine. They also mentioned Moti Mahal (the reported birthplace of tandoori chicken) in the heart of the old city, 3704 Netaji Subagh Marg.

Hope you give us a "user review" once you get back!

machadinha · Jul 24th, 2007, 07:29

My best advice is to not be so careful, unless something's seriously changed there.

It's a wonderful area and I intend to sleep there next time. It's just slightly further away from Connaught Place but I suppose you realize this and it's not all that far. The walk to Paharganj from there is fun, many wicker-makers among others, I've read here it's still like that. Have fun! Cross over to Feroz Shah Kotla (not exactly close by btw...), Delhi was rebuilt and abandoned several times and this is one of the ruins of one of the old cities. Marvelous and doesn't see many tourists. Raj Ghat is near there, nice park and Gandhi's memorial.

... ps What I liked about it is it's very busy but minus the tourist hassle, since there simply aren't so many. So while crowded I felt wonderfully unbothered there. CP by comparison I'd rather steer the hell away from.

incitatus · Jul 24th, 2007, 08:50

Congrats on doing your own thing in Delhi - rickshaws are not necessary,you can wander around for hours bothered by nobody except when you get near the Red Fort.
If you've already visited-or intend to visit-the Red Fort in Agra then give the Delhi version a miss.Visiting the Jama Masjid for views from the minaret is a must otherwise walking around people watching is the best way of passing the time - with numerous stops for snacks of course!

Try Haldiram's on Chandni Chowk-downstairs sells snacks- namkeens, samosas, sweets,sharbats for immediate consumption or take away.Upstairs there's a sitdown restaurant with menu. It's very popular,fast turnover,fresh food-no "digestive problems"
You've probably seen Haldiram's products in India or in Indian stores abroad.
Haldiram's

Feeling more adventurous ? -the stalls around the Jama Masjid sell tasty snacks also there's my favourite falooda stall opposite the Fatephur Masjid at the western end of Chandni Chowk.
(After 32 years I still can't remember it's name or even if it's got one!)

pkibbee · Jul 24th, 2007, 08:59

Try and locate a copy of ''Old Delhi: 10 Easy Walks,'' written by two British women living in India, Gaynor Barton and Laurraine Malone. It divides Old Delhi into neighborhoods manageable on foot. Its a terrific book and I found it on an Indian book web site on google.

shashank.aggarwal · Jul 24th, 2007, 12:05

While in Old Delhi..live on temptation when it comes to food !! Karim is a Non-Veggies Delight and Haldiram's is a vegetarians dream come true...

But they are all organized and famous...the taste of Delhi is waiting for you in Non descript streets in most unknown of shops..still they are operating from generations and are probably decades and in some cases centuries old..

A lot would depend on the time you are here..if your visit coincides with one of the numerous festivals we celebrate then the things would be much more adorable..even though I have been born and brought up in Delhi and even then when I happen to visit Old Delhi during festive seasons it gives me goosebumps seeing all that color and fervor and life and of course Chaos...

Old Delhi comprises of some of the well known wholesale markets on India...these markets are lifeline of many cities and trades..you will come across Spice wholesales, grocery wholesalers, stationary, electric components, paper products, clothes and lot of other things...

Just be prepared for the sensory overload and chaos and rest of it would be a lifetime experience..

Jorge Reverter · Jul 24th, 2007, 16:45

Great idea to move by your own in Old Delhi, no need at all of rickshaws etc.

If interested you can have a look at this thread open few months ago: "From Paharganj to Old Delhi"
http://www.indiamike.com/india/showt...p?t-29955.html

Jorge

proxyindian · Jul 24th, 2007, 17:30

Okay... okay... calm down Steve... don't get too excited....

Thanks pkibbee for the book suggestion of "Old Delhi: 10 Easy Walks". I didn't know there was a book.

Shawshank, I love the phrase "live on temptation when it comes to food." I wish we'd lived on temptation and jumped off that rickshaw and bought the soap we saw and bought the chowki legs and taken good pictures. John and I have agreed that we will buy everything we want, even if we already have something like it in our suitcase, and then sort it out at home.

"Be prepared for sensory overload" Yes. Our only venture on foot was into the spice street and it was overwhelming. BUT it is on of my fondest memories and what I tell most everyone about.

Jorge Reveter, I'm not sure how the foot walk to Paharganj would work with all the rickshaws getting in the way, but we do want to get there. We stayed in the Ajanta last year and somehow managed never to get down to Main Bazaar. That's something we'd like to do this time but only have a week. Perhaps....

Incitatus, yes we went to both Red Forts last year. The Delhi one is only worth seeing as a comparison to see how the British destroyed it. Very sad, especially when we look at history books and see what a beautiful place it was. I hear the Red Fort of Lahore is really spectacular in comparison to the Red Forts in India... but we won't be going to Pakistan.

Machadinha, we should cross over to the Feroz Shah Kotla and see taht area.

proxyindian · Jul 24th, 2007, 17:32

SitaParityaga, we went to the Moti Mahal last year and loved it. We are going to return this year, but later in the evening when it's full of men and noise. Last year we went too early and ate with only a few other tourists, but when we left around 10, it was getting busy and jolly. Does anyone know on what night this place is most hopping? Or what nights are the nights in general that people go out to have a good night on the town?

fsg · Jul 24th, 2007, 19:43

In Old Delhi, somewhat parralel to the main street there is a street full of Marriage goods, all N Indian but there you can purchase lovely paper wallets,[for giving money at a marriage] usefull for us westerners who give money in a boring old envelope.. They are lovely and only about 20/- a pop.

Also on this street is a beautiful Jain temple, up stairs.

I could wander there for days...... street food is good too.

Mehndi Masala · Jul 24th, 2007, 22:26

Quote:

Originally Posted by incitatus

Try Haldiram's on Chandni Chowk-downstairs sells snacks- namkeens, samosas, sweets,sharbats for immediate consumption or take away.Upstairs there's a sitdown restaurant with menu. It's very popular,fast turnover,fresh food-no "digestive problems"
You've probably seen Haldiram's products in India or in Indian stores abroad.
Haldiram's

I purchase several of thier products often! I had no idea it was an actual shop....I thought it was just a factory/company! I'm going to have to drop in there for sure!

Kim

shashank.aggarwal · Jul 24th, 2007, 22:32

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mehndi Masala

I purchase several of thier products often! I had no idea it was an actual shop....I thought it was just a factory/company! I'm going to have to drop in there for sure!

Kim

Its an ancient outlet..and started packaging just few years or maybe a decade back..

Infact you will get a lot more variety then they sell in packets..

Haldiram's and Bikanewala are the two chains that are not only famous in Delhi but across globe among people of India origin..

Mehndi Masala · Jul 24th, 2007, 23:25

Quote:

Originally Posted by pkibbee

Try and locate a copy of ''Old Delhi: 10 Easy Walks,'' written by two British women living in India, Gaynor Barton and Laurraine Malone. It divides Old Delhi into neighborhoods manageable on foot. Its a terrific book and I found it on an Indian book web site on google.

I've taken a look and am wondering if there could be a sticky thread like a garage sale of India maps and books. I would be interested in purchasing this book, and online I find in India it costs about $5.00, here the price is between $15.00 and $17.00 NOT including shipping. I would love to see books like this for sale by people who no longer have use of it and want to pass it along to others for thier adventure!

I am not talking about trinkets and goodies, so much as 'back pack' prizes and helpful guides.

Or has this been tried and the idea sucked???

Kim

phantom · Jul 25th, 2007, 11:44

Ok.. here's my (absolute-must) list of "food suggestions" :-
1) Haldiram -- Raj kachouri
2) Jalebi near sheeshganj gurudwara
3) Karim
4) Falooda at Gianni's

You can also try out chole bhature at chaina ram or the paranthas at paranthe waali gali

I think thats all you could take for one day

jyotirmoy · Jul 25th, 2007, 12:01

1.Karims hotel near Jama Masjid for excellent non-vegetarian Mughlai food. Start with Mutton Barha, move on to Seekh Kababs with Rumali roti, Mutton Quorma with Bakarkhani Roti, Mutton Ishtew with Tandoori roti, finish with Sheermal as the dessert.
2.Chor Bizzare near Delhi gate for excellent Kashmiri cuisine. The salad bar is the Rolls Royce vintage car. Start with a beer with batter fried Lotus stems, more beer with Tabak Maj, Gustaba with rice, Rista with yellow pulao. For dessert walk towards Dariya Gunge & near the movie theatre you will find good Kulfi Faluda.

Jul 24th, 2007, 06:58	#1
proxyindian Insomnia Cat Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Chicago, Illinois Posts: 298	Old Delhi We're planning to spend one or two full days in Old Delhi, walking the streets, getting lost, and buying lots of stuff in the market. We were there last year but were mostly rushed along by cycle rickshaw drivers. This time, our hotel will be close by (The Broadway) and we're not going to let any drivers wait for us. We have the Lonely Planet Old Delhi walks as a starting point. Of course we're going to be careful. We plan to eat at Karim's. Any other food suggestions? Does anybody have any general advice for navigating the Old Delhi streets? What places shouldn't we miss? Thanks, Steve

Jul 24th, 2007, 07:29	#3
machadinha Not Your Guru Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: yörp Posts: 11,445	My best advice is to not be so careful, unless something's seriously changed there. It's a wonderful area and I intend to sleep there next time. It's just slightly further away from Connaught Place but I suppose you realize this and it's not all that far. The walk to Paharganj from there is fun, many wicker-makers among others, I've read here it's still like that. Have fun! Cross over to Feroz Shah Kotla (not exactly close by btw...), Delhi was rebuilt and abandoned several times and this is one of the ruins of one of the old cities. Marvelous and doesn't see many tourists. Raj Ghat is near there, nice park and Gandhi's memorial. ... ps What I liked about it is it's very busy but minus the tourist hassle, since there simply aren't so many. So while crowded I felt wonderfully unbothered there. CP by comparison I'd rather steer the hell away from. __________________ Reading tips, all picked up at IndiaMike : INDAX's A Comprehensive Guide To India / Dinoj Surendran's Desi Humor / ITHVC on Culture Shock & Travel Health / JetLag Travel Guides For the Undiscerning Traveller / India Travel Links

Jul 24th, 2007, 08:50	#4
incitatus Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: UK Posts: 207	Eating in Old Delhi Congrats on doing your own thing in Delhi - rickshaws are not necessary,you can wander around for hours bothered by nobody except when you get near the Red Fort. If you've already visited-or intend to visit-the Red Fort in Agra then give the Delhi version a miss.Visiting the Jama Masjid for views from the minaret is a must otherwise walking around people watching is the best way of passing the time - with numerous stops for snacks of course! Try Haldiram's on Chandni Chowk-downstairs sells snacks- namkeens, samosas, sweets,sharbats for immediate consumption or take away.Upstairs there's a sitdown restaurant with menu. It's very popular,fast turnover,fresh food-no "digestive problems" You've probably seen Haldiram's products in India or in Indian stores abroad. Haldiram's Feeling more adventurous ? -the stalls around the Jama Masjid sell tasty snacks also there's my favourite falooda stall opposite the Fatephur Masjid at the western end of Chandni Chowk. (After 32 years I still can't remember it's name or even if it's got one!)

Jul 24th, 2007, 12:05	#6
shashank.aggarwal Maha Guru Member Join Date: May 2007 Location: ~ Dilli ~ Posts: 5,919	While in Old Delhi..live on temptation when it comes to food !! Karim is a Non-Veggies Delight and Haldiram's is a vegetarians dream come true... But they are all organized and famous...the taste of Delhi is waiting for you in Non descript streets in most unknown of shops..still they are operating from generations and are probably decades and in some cases centuries old.. A lot would depend on the time you are here..if your visit coincides with one of the numerous festivals we celebrate then the things would be much more adorable..even though I have been born and brought up in Delhi and even then when I happen to visit Old Delhi during festive seasons it gives me goosebumps seeing all that color and fervor and life and of course Chaos... Old Delhi comprises of some of the well known wholesale markets on India...these markets are lifeline of many cities and trades..you will come across Spice wholesales, grocery wholesalers, stationary, electric components, paper products, clothes and lot of other things... Just be prepared for the sensory overload and chaos and rest of it would be a lifetime experience.. __________________ Travelogue - Around India Random Reviews

Jul 24th, 2007, 17:30	#8
proxyindian Insomnia Cat Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Chicago, Illinois Posts: 298	Thanks Okay... okay... calm down Steve... don't get too excited.... Thanks pkibbee for the book suggestion of "Old Delhi: 10 Easy Walks". I didn't know there was a book. Shawshank, I love the phrase "live on temptation when it comes to food." I wish we'd lived on temptation and jumped off that rickshaw and bought the soap we saw and bought the chowki legs and taken good pictures. John and I have agreed that we will buy everything we want, even if we already have something like it in our suitcase, and then sort it out at home. "Be prepared for sensory overload" Yes. Our only venture on foot was into the spice street and it was overwhelming. BUT it is on of my fondest memories and what I tell most everyone about. Jorge Reveter, I'm not sure how the foot walk to Paharganj would work with all the rickshaws getting in the way, but we do want to get there. We stayed in the Ajanta last year and somehow managed never to get down to Main Bazaar. That's something we'd like to do this time but only have a week. Perhaps.... Incitatus, yes we went to both Red Forts last year. The Delhi one is only worth seeing as a comparison to see how the British destroyed it. Very sad, especially when we look at history books and see what a beautiful place it was. I hear the Red Fort of Lahore is really spectacular in comparison to the Red Forts in India... but we won't be going to Pakistan. Machadinha, we should cross over to the Feroz Shah Kotla and see taht area.

Jul 24th, 2007, 07:14	#2
SitaParityaga member in the forest Join Date: May 2003 Location: California Posts: 929	When I saw your post I dug up my list of "places not to be missed" in Delhi the next time around. You already have Karims on your list. Read about it in Saveur magazine. They also mentioned Moti Mahal (the reported birthplace of tandoori chicken) in the heart of the old city, 3704 Netaji Subagh Marg. Hope you give us a "user review" once you get back!

Jul 24th, 2007, 08:59	#5
pkibbee Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: United States Posts: 58	Try and locate a copy of ''Old Delhi: 10 Easy Walks,'' written by two British women living in India, Gaynor Barton and Laurraine Malone. It divides Old Delhi into neighborhoods manageable on foot. Its a terrific book and I found it on an Indian book web site on google.

Jul 24th, 2007, 16:45	#7
Jorge Reverter Maha Guru Member Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Murcia - Spain Posts: 1,251	Great idea to move by your own in Old Delhi, no need at all of rickshaws etc. If interested you can have a look at this thread open few months ago: "From Paharganj to Old Delhi" http://www.indiamike.com/india/showt...p?t-29955.html Jorge

Jul 24th, 2007, 17:32	#9
proxyindian Insomnia Cat Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Chicago, Illinois Posts: 298	Moti Mahal SitaParityaga, we went to the Moti Mahal last year and loved it. We are going to return this year, but later in the evening when it's full of men and noise. Last year we went too early and ate with only a few other tourists, but when we left around 10, it was getting busy and jolly. Does anyone know on what night this place is most hopping? Or what nights are the nights in general that people go out to have a good night on the town?

Jul 24th, 2007, 19:43	#10
fsg Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: U.K Posts: 253	In Old Delhi, somewhat parralel to the main street there is a street full of Marriage goods, all N Indian but there you can purchase lovely paper wallets,[for giving money at a marriage] usefull for us westerners who give money in a boring old envelope.. They are lovely and only about 20/- a pop. Also on this street is a beautiful Jain temple, up stairs. I could wander there for days...... street food is good too.

Jul 25th, 2007, 11:44	#14
phantom Maha Guru Member Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Delhi Posts: 1,215	Ok.. here's my (absolute-must) list of "food suggestions" :- 1) Haldiram -- Raj kachouri 2) Jalebi near sheeshganj gurudwara 3) Karim 4) Falooda at Gianni's You can also try out chole bhature at chaina ram or the paranthas at paranthe waali gali I think thats all you could take for one day

Jul 25th, 2007, 12:01	#15
jyotirmoy Maha Guru Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: India Posts: 4,724	1.Karims hotel near Jama Masjid for excellent non-vegetarian Mughlai food. Start with Mutton Barha, move on to Seekh Kababs with Rumali roti, Mutton Quorma with Bakarkhani Roti, Mutton Ishtew with Tandoori roti, finish with Sheermal as the dessert. 2.Chor Bizzare near Delhi gate for excellent Kashmiri cuisine. The salad bar is the Rolls Royce vintage car. Start with a beer with batter fried Lotus stems, more beer with Tabak Maj, Gustaba with rice, Rista with yellow pulao. For dessert walk towards Dariya Gunge & near the movie theatre you will find good Kulfi Faluda.

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