old Delhi by cycle rickshaw - stay on target!

brownboy66 · Jan 3rd, 2008, 17:24

If you remember the final scene in the first star wars movie - the rebel pilots are hurtling down a trench on the death star at break neck speed dodging left and right, with tie fighters coming at them from in front and behind, debris all around them, inches to spare between the various vehicles, all rushing towards what appears to be a chaotic explosion at the end, one of the lead pilots saying "stay on target, stay on target"....welcome to Old Delhi by cycle rickshaw! (again as with a previous post about the Red Fort - here are just a few impressions).

Getting there

take the metro - not least because it puts you right in the middle of the markets - it will also emphasize the extreme contrast between new world technology ,and the existence that is old Delhi (the contrast is even more stark when you go from spending time in old Delhi, and then go back to the emptiness of the metro!

).

The fare on the metro was 45 rupees for the 5 of us (3 adults, 2 children aged 11 and 8, and our 4 year old - who travels free because he was under 3 feet - sort of the reverse policy you would find on a roller coaster)! It was fast, clean, empty - and we were there in what seemed like 5 minutes from the metro station at central secretariat.

First impressions

This is how I remember India from 10 years ago. Funnily enough - it was a particular mixture of spices, smoke, and slight mustiness that transported me back in time. Suddenly it all felt very familiar again and dare I say it - homely. I've always thought that if you find the right kind of experience it wont just show you a different place, it will show you a different time as well - and this was certainly the case. Its also one of those things that shows you just how different a place can be - which is what I guess, as travellers, we are all after?

Getting three cycle rickshaws was easy - you come out of the chandi chowk metro station, follow a path for about 15-20 meters out to the main road - and there are cycle rickshaws galore. Aside from offering a great way of covering a lot of territory, sitting up slightly higher from the crowd also gives you a better view of the symphony of colour, light, noise, and activity around you. In addition, its great for kids as they get to ride in something, which keeps them interested.

We had an indian friend with us who quickly arranged 3 rickshaws. My daughter and I ended up with the youngest of the 3 drivers - purely by coincidence I might add, as I'm sure it had nothing to do with the fact that he was the fittest, and I was the fattest!

We then spent the next hour diving through streets and alleyways with far too many sights to mention here (not to mention not wanting to spoil anyone else's experience when they go to old Delhi) - but a few things that stood out.....

a) going down an alley way with shops that only stocked scales - not the flimsy plastic kitchen type but the old cast iron scales painted in red that use lead weights,

b) going past a shop where a guy was unloading newly made singer sewing machines - that were about 60 years plus old in terms of design - you know, they old heavy duty black sewing machines your grand mother would have used....

c) being passed by a cycle rickshaw carrying 15 primary school girls dressed in a deep red school unifrom - who then all waved at us saying "hello" in unison (I didn't know you could fit so many people onto one of these things - but considering some of the other things that were being carried - I shouldn't have been surprised),

e) the numerous intersections we came too at what seemed like an insane speed, along with other speeding rickshaws, cars, motorcycles, trolleys, people, cows, where I was sure it was all going to come to a messy end - and then suddenly your on the other side of the intersection and away again....(by the way, if you've developed a phobia for travelling by car in Delhi - spend an hour travelling by rickshaw in old Delhi - suddenly car traffic seems quite spacious by comparison),

f) the occasional glimpse of a dimly lit alley way too small for even rickshaws - a world of its own.

g) visiting the fate puri (?) mosque - not nearly as grand as the jama masjid mosque - but no tourist and had a more "everyday used" feel about it....

so there we go - off to Agra tomorrow, so will write up another instalment next week re the Taj Mahal, Agra Fort, and Fatephur Sikri !

burf · Jan 3rd, 2008, 18:47

i believe if you are new to driving and want to hone your delhi driving skills, you should drive in chandani chowk

brownboy66 · Jan 4th, 2008, 02:32

it wouldn't be so much driving...as "crawling"

Felt sorry for some of the cops - trying to untangle the intersections. Worse than a birds nest in a fishing line!

edwardseco · Jan 4th, 2008, 03:46

Don't even say it in jest. First day in India my father in law decided this. I immediately knocked a kid! But, hiring a cycle rickshaw is ideal for old cities. Spend the day laid back and marvelling at the splendorous panorama..

pirossalma · Mar 7th, 2008, 06:45

What wonderful memories your post awoke in me!
During my last Delhi visit my Indian friend arranged something similar for me in Old Delhi.

In my upcoming Delhi visit I plan to do something similar: to use cycle rikshaws to explore all those beautiful South Delhi gardens.

Have you used it for shorter rides too?
Any estimate, what is an acceptable price for a 2-3 km ride?

brownboy66 · Mar 7th, 2008, 10:31

goodness, no idea on that. With our cycle rickshaw in old Delhi we gave the driver 150 rupees for the time that we were there (and it was a fairly decent ride we had). For shorter distances I can't imagine that cost would be that great.

edwardseco · Mar 7th, 2008, 13:02

They always quote some low rate for me and I make sure its a good bit more..

puchoo · Mar 7th, 2008, 13:18

Quote:

Originally Posted by pirossalma

Have you used it for shorter rides too?
Any estimate, what is an acceptable price for a 2-3 km ride?

i pay about 10 for just a little under 1 Km once in a while when i dont feel like taking the car out to go to the market...so i guess about 30-40 should be ok.

But heres the thing...if you take an "auto rickshaw" for the same distance , and the auto guy goes by the meter then it will prob be cheaper..around 25 -30.

depends on how you want to travel of course!

Jan 3rd, 2008, 17:24	#1
brownboy66 Chicken 65 Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: New Delhi Posts: 2,330	old Delhi by cycle rickshaw - stay on target! If you remember the final scene in the first star wars movie - the rebel pilots are hurtling down a trench on the death star at break neck speed dodging left and right, with tie fighters coming at them from in front and behind, debris all around them, inches to spare between the various vehicles, all rushing towards what appears to be a chaotic explosion at the end, one of the lead pilots saying "stay on target, stay on target"....welcome to Old Delhi by cycle rickshaw! (again as with a previous post about the Red Fort - here are just a few impressions). Getting there take the metro - not least because it puts you right in the middle of the markets - it will also emphasize the extreme contrast between new world technology ,and the existence that is old Delhi (the contrast is even more stark when you go from spending time in old Delhi, and then go back to the emptiness of the metro!). The fare on the metro was 45 rupees for the 5 of us (3 adults, 2 children aged 11 and 8, and our 4 year old - who travels free because he was under 3 feet - sort of the reverse policy you would find on a roller coaster)! It was fast, clean, empty - and we were there in what seemed like 5 minutes from the metro station at central secretariat. First impressions This is how I remember India from 10 years ago. Funnily enough - it was a particular mixture of spices, smoke, and slight mustiness that transported me back in time. Suddenly it all felt very familiar again and dare I say it - homely. I've always thought that if you find the right kind of experience it wont just show you a different place, it will show you a different time as well - and this was certainly the case. Its also one of those things that shows you just how different a place can be - which is what I guess, as travellers, we are all after? Getting three cycle rickshaws was easy - you come out of the chandi chowk metro station, follow a path for about 15-20 meters out to the main road - and there are cycle rickshaws galore. Aside from offering a great way of covering a lot of territory, sitting up slightly higher from the crowd also gives you a better view of the symphony of colour, light, noise, and activity around you. In addition, its great for kids as they get to ride in something, which keeps them interested. We had an indian friend with us who quickly arranged 3 rickshaws. My daughter and I ended up with the youngest of the 3 drivers - purely by coincidence I might add, as I'm sure it had nothing to do with the fact that he was the fittest, and I was the fattest! We then spent the next hour diving through streets and alleyways with far too many sights to mention here (not to mention not wanting to spoil anyone else's experience when they go to old Delhi) - but a few things that stood out..... a) going down an alley way with shops that only stocked scales - not the flimsy plastic kitchen type but the old cast iron scales painted in red that use lead weights, b) going past a shop where a guy was unloading newly made singer sewing machines - that were about 60 years plus old in terms of design - you know, they old heavy duty black sewing machines your grand mother would have used.... c) being passed by a cycle rickshaw carrying 15 primary school girls dressed in a deep red school unifrom - who then all waved at us saying "hello" in unison (I didn't know you could fit so many people onto one of these things - but considering some of the other things that were being carried - I shouldn't have been surprised), e) the numerous intersections we came too at what seemed like an insane speed, along with other speeding rickshaws, cars, motorcycles, trolleys, people, cows, where I was sure it was all going to come to a messy end - and then suddenly your on the other side of the intersection and away again....(by the way, if you've developed a phobia for travelling by car in Delhi - spend an hour travelling by rickshaw in old Delhi - suddenly car traffic seems quite spacious by comparison), f) the occasional glimpse of a dimly lit alley way too small for even rickshaws - a world of its own. g) visiting the fate puri (?) mosque - not nearly as grand as the jama masjid mosque - but no tourist and had a more "everyday used" feel about it.... so there we go - off to Agra tomorrow, so will write up another instalment next week re the Taj Mahal, Agra Fort, and Fatephur Sikri !

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Jan 3rd, 2008, 18:47	#2
burf wondering when? Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: delhi Posts: 325	i believe if you are new to driving and want to hone your delhi driving skills, you should drive in chandani chowk

Jan 4th, 2008, 02:32	#3
brownboy66 Chicken 65 Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: New Delhi Posts: 2,330	it wouldn't be so much driving...as "crawling" Felt sorry for some of the cops - trying to untangle the intersections. Worse than a birds nest in a fishing line!

Jan 4th, 2008, 03:46	#4
edwardseco Maha Guru Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Land that shakes and bakes. Posts: 4,423	Don't even say it in jest. First day in India my father in law decided this. I immediately knocked a kid! But, hiring a cycle rickshaw is ideal for old cities. Spend the day laid back and marvelling at the splendorous panorama..

Mar 7th, 2008, 06:45	#5
pirossalma Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: world commuter Posts: 16	What wonderful memories your post awoke in me! During my last Delhi visit my Indian friend arranged something similar for me in Old Delhi. In my upcoming Delhi visit I plan to do something similar: to use cycle rikshaws to explore all those beautiful South Delhi gardens. Have you used it for shorter rides too? Any estimate, what is an acceptable price for a 2-3 km ride?

Mar 7th, 2008, 10:31	#6
brownboy66 Chicken 65 Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: New Delhi Posts: 2,330	goodness, no idea on that. With our cycle rickshaw in old Delhi we gave the driver 150 rupees for the time that we were there (and it was a fairly decent ride we had). For shorter distances I can't imagine that cost would be that great.

Mar 7th, 2008, 13:02	#7
edwardseco Maha Guru Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Land that shakes and bakes. Posts: 4,423	They always quote some low rate for me and I make sure its a good bit more..

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