Nizamuddin Tomb

paanwallah

A week ago I have for the first time visited the shrine (although previously came to Delhi a lot of times). Based on what I have read before I was really looking forward for something special (in terms of spiritual atmosphere). Instead, it was like a crowded railway station with dozens of hawkers and beggars, let alone the filth and squalor. I was not let in peace for a second without being asked for alms, to buy rose petals or books. At the end the person claiming to be a direct descendant of Nizamuddin ( Mr. Sadiq Hussain Nizami) invited me to have a rest in front of the tomb immediately facing me with a donation book. It was really a dreadful experience. Or did I have wrong expectations?

roopesh_kohad

I wouldn't say you had "wrong" expectations but probably a bit higher. I am sure you would've visited other popularly reverred religious places of both communities in India and got a similar response albeit lower in intensity and barring some specifics.

I am not surprised by what you have written, what others told me of various religious places across India and many which I have experienced myself. Unclean surroundings, beggars, hawkers, crowd and unethical practices has become norm rather than exception.

Aishah

Paanwallah - are you talking about Humayun's tomb?? Or is Nizamuddin Tomb another site? I do not recognize it from your description as Humayun's tomb in Nizamuddin - I visted that site in February and found it absolutely beautiful - no beggars etc. uncrowded and lovely garden atmosphere with fabulous old Mughal architecture. Where is Nizamuddin's tomb?

roopesh_kohad

Aishah - He is talking about Dargah (shrine) of Nizamuddin Auliya which tucked inside the lanes in Nizamuddin area.

uligaen

The description sounds definitely not like Humayun's tomb. He means the Nizzamuddin shrines which are close to Humayun's tomb.

I experienced it the same way as paanwallah. Very crowded, dirty, way too hot (was there end of May) and not too spiritual at all. Especially annoying were the please-take-your-shoes-off-right-now-guys. We deliberately went towards the evening to listen to the Sufi music, but it was not what I expected. I listened/watched Sufi music before and thought of it as a very powerful and energetic sound, but in Nizzamuddin it never developped this 'spirit'.
Still, it is a typical Indian place and therefore not too bad to go...
If someone is interested in more relaxed Muslim shrines then one could go to those in Mehrauli (of course you'll find beggars and hawkers as well, but less than in Nizzamuddin).

RPG

All religions are businesses. You enter into an arrangement whereby they give you some product (peace of mind, a sense of spirituality, an assurance that you will see your loved ones after death, soothing music, etc) and they take your money.

In the OP's case, they asked too aggressively for money (a matter of style, not substance). But many tourists expect to sample the world's religions for free. Unfortunately, the show has to be paid for, one way or another. An if they did not provide an acceptable product in exchange for the money, unfortunately there are no legal protections for consumers of religion.

bijapuri

A matter of perspective, perhaps?

Went to see the music a few years ago. They were not playing, and everything the original post mentions was there in full, And yet we considered it a very special place and were very moved. Knowing the history and significance of the place helped us take it for what it is.

Perhaps I've gotten used to the bustle- I don't think it was any worse or better than the average marquee hindu temple.

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Aishah

Roopesh Kohad - thanks for enlightening me! I haven't been to that particular shrine but sounds like any shrine anywhere in India - remember this is a 3rd World country and we can't put our own expectations on top of the people who live here and have never had a chance to see something better. Of course there are many Indians who have had the chance too but there seems to often be an apathy towards this sort of thing - it is as if it is beyond them to do anything. There are places, like Humayan's Tomb where they are doing good things and looking after the surroundings and my guess is for the Commonwealth Games there is a big 'clean up' going on so maybe this shrine will come under this umbrella, with a bit of luck! Some holy places I have been to are a bit like the Indian version of Disneyworld - families picnicking, children climbing over the statues, youths swimming in the holy waters - hawkers, beggars, shopping arcades etc. It is a day's outing for families, and I quite enjoy their enthusiasm.

RPG

Humayun's tomb is not an active religious shrine. It is a government-run national monument. There is no comparison.

The Aga Khan sponsored "cleanup" really spoiled Humayun's tomb. It used to be this overgrown and atmospheric place with parrots everywhere; now there are synthetic, neat gardens. There are still some parrots but not as many.

bijapuri

The "synthetic, neat gardens" are in fact a restoration based upon original layout.

That said, I agree with you, that HT used to be delightfully neglected.

paanwallah

Thanks to everybody for the feedback. Just wanted to emphasize that I am a frequent India traveler and used to a lot of stuff you can encounter there. The experience at Nizamuddin's was particular negative. If it would be a situation usual for Indian reality I would not have posted it.
Generally agreeing with your thoughts I personally think that the trust in charge of the shrine is obliged to care for at least basic order and decency at the place. In Amritsar it seems to be possible, why not to try at Nizamuddin's?

proxyindian

I just want to verify something... Is the following statement true?

The music is only on Thursday evenings.

capt_mahajan

Thursday evenings is correct.

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jyotirmoy

Nobody mentioned the great Biriyanis & Kababs that you can have here. The Kakori Kababs dished out by Aap ki khatir are superb.

proxyindian

I felt a little disappointed when I read the negative comments in this thread, but it will help me be realistic. John & I have experienced hotspots before so now a little better what all these posts mean.

Okay, so we're not going to be able to get there on a Thursday to hear the music, which is too bad. We're going to have to deal with the crowds and touts, which is very bad. But I will totally go for the Kababs. I found this review for Aap Ki Khatir: http://sigfood.org/comment/reply/368
Sounds really good.

Plus, I really, really, really want to go to the shrine. Maybe my expectations are too high.... Oh well, it certainly shouldn't be like a walk through Palika Bazaar.