need to know where to find Qawwali singing

vixi_s

I will be arriving in delhi on the afternoon of thursday the 17th january and would love to go to the Qawwali at Nuzzamadin (sorry if that is spelt wrong) tomb. could someone tell me how to get there from connaught place and what time and any extra info on etiquette (i am a 22 year old white girl travelling alone).

also any other places that you could reccommend to me where i could find this singing, i'm also going to varanasi among other places.

any other hints and tips for a first timer in delhi wuld be appreciated

thankyou to all you lovely folk at india mike X

machadinha

Try this thread: Nizamuddin Tomb

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worldofmuse

I took an autorickshaw there 3 years ago after arriving in ND on a Thursday. I had a much more mellow time than the posters on the link. It was not crowded . everyone was very nice, and I enjoyed watching people shower the grave with flower petals. After a while I realized, to my embarrassment, that I was the only person not wearing a head covering., so i went to one of the nearby stalls and got one. Everyone was apparently too polite to tell me.
I find dressing respectfully, being unobtrusive and taking my time observing the scene makes for a great experience. The music that night was only getting started when I left, just a singer and harmonium.
When I went to Lahore 2 years ago I saw much exuberant Qawali and a Sufi festival. The Regale Inn is a center for information on that, and also brings musicians in for rooftop concerts.
I'd also like to hear about other Qawali opportunities

machadinha

I don't know; I'd left a short addition above, then deleted it because I'm unsure.

I have heard Kolkata might be one destination for it, but this was based on me reading about the Sabri Brothers having a connection there, which reading up on them I doubt. They are/were Pakistani, and the links to Qawwali in that country are covered to an extent in the above thread.

My impression with much of classical and folk music in India is it tends to take place in private quarters, with people inviting each other over ("Hey! Ravi Shankar is playing tonight at X's place!" -- I'm not kidding), so it may be hard to get to "the real thing" as a stranger, save for some festivals. One can scout around though. With various Sufi orders, a certain reclusiveness may come into play -- although Qawwali seems to be exuberant enough. It appears to be related to the Chishti order if you want to do any further research on it.

Simplicity

You could take an autorickshaw from Connaught place to
Nizammuddin.Fare should be around Rs.50

Nick-H

Mach... people like Ravi Shankar don't get out of bed for less than several thousand pounds! They may very well play for house concerts, but, if they do, it will be for the super-rich.

I guess there is more than a handful of these "top" artists who are now living happy and rich lives in California and such-like places rather than India.

I really don't know about the Northern scene, but here, in the South, classical music is certainly a public performance thing. Musicians may well play when they get together, or they visit the houses of friends --- they may well also just sit and drink coffee, I guess

I am a member of a small group who got together to have a more intimate experience of music. Although some of our concerts have been held in halls, most of them have been held in living rooms. This is how I believe Indian classical music should be enjoyed, but since the days of court patronage have long since passed, when it was thus enjoyed by the lucky few, I think it is comparatively rare.

As I say: maybe up North it is different.

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backpakker

true Nick, my mother is a classical music singer and she was a disciple of two stalwarts, the late ML Vasanthakumari and Lalgudi Jayaraman ..while there are public performances, we remember as children singing in groups for any festival or just when we have a get together

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jalebiwallah

The Dargah in Ajmer is another great place in India for Qawwali.

vixi_s

getting very excited now about my first night in Delhi. what time do you think it best for me to go down to the tomb on the thursday?

Nick-H

WOW! Does she perform in Chennai?

jyotirmoy

I was there last Thursday, the music started around 7 PM.
Ladies are required to cover their heads.

vixi_s

that's great thanks.

right well at least i know what i'm doing on my first night in delhi!