seeking Darjeeling info and advice

somnath

Hi,
I just love these areas and tried to share my experience to enjoy the maximum in a reasonable span of time .

But three days is simply not enough my friend. You will be coming from Chennai it will take a huge time to reach there. OK, I think you are referring to 3 complete days (excluding train journeys from / to Chennai) then it will be better to focus in Darjeeling only. October is a great time; sky is crystal clear during this time. But it is Kanchenjunga, it makes own rule . But I don’t think you will be disappointed. You will be able to experience the joy ride on Toy train. And plz do not think about Tsomgo and gurudongmar in this trip .
If you are planning after 8th October, complete all the reservations right NOW.

If you need any info, please do not hesitate. I’ll be happy if I can help you.

- Somnath

mikewill

Hi Somnath, Babuchand

From what you have both already posted I think the following trip should work OK, but would appreciate your thoughts:

Wednesday 22 February New Jalpaiguri Darjeeling
Thursday 23 February Darjeeling
Friday 24 February Darjeeling
Saturday 25 February Darjeeling Pelling
Sunday 26 February Pelling Yuksam plus Pemayangtse, Khechepari
Monday 27 February Pelling Gangtok
Tuesday 28 February Gangtok
Wednesday 01 March Gangtok Natu La plus Tsomgo Lake, Baba Mandir
Thursday 02 March Gangtok N Sikkim Lachung,Yumthang and Chopta Valley?
Friday 03 March N Sikkim N Sikkim
Saturday 04 March N Sikkim Gangtok
Sunday 05 March Gangtok New Jalpaiguri Bus


Does that sound OK? I put DJ first as I really want to go up on the train (despite last week's crash!). Will the roads be OK in N Sikkim in early March? Having read abhi's blog on his trip to Gurudongmar it sounds a little extreme - we're not used to high altitudes. Can't quite work out where the Chopta valley is - can you explain.

And are all these places possible for foreigners? Even Natu La?

This is all part of a much longer trip - coming from Assam and going on to Patna - if it's not too dangerous! Should be in Kolkata about 8 - 10 February - maybe we could meet up?

Thanks for the really helpful posts

rangss

Thanks Somnath...I guess I must stick to Darjeeling alone...yes... I am gonna make reservations ASAP.

__________________
...and I took the road less travelled.

rangss

Somnath...Just a thought... are you suggesting that Tsomgo lake is out of question due to the time constraint or is it due to the weather?

What if I take the train to Darjeeling and leave asap to Gangtok from Darjeeling? Would I save an extra day for gangtok and Tsomgo?

dzibead

mikewill, check out this website for the Home Dept of the state of Sikkim - it has info re permits: http://sikkim.nic.in/homedept/ilpfaqs.htm

I don't think Nathu La is open yet. There are discussions that it will be opening for trade, but I'm not sure it will be open for tourists, especially foreign ones, even once it opens for commerce, which will be too bad. But fortunately there are plenty other places to go in Sikkim.

ddutta

Mikewill,

Your tour programme is apparenlty OK . But what I found by searching net that
Nathula Pass is open only to Indian Nationals on Wednesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays and Sundays.To visit the Indian side of Nathula, a visitor's permit (for Indians ) must be made one day in advance, which is done by any travel agency. For other places in Sikkim you have to take special permission to visit/stay in those areas. ( Link provided by the dzibed ).

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ddutta

rangss,

It will be better if you stick to Darz. only for this trip (as advised by Somnath ). But if you really eager to cover/visit Tsango then you can follow this programme:-

Day 1 = N.J.P /Siliguri/Bagdogra to Darz. By bus/car/jeep ( 3 - 3.5 hrs ), Toy train (6.5 - 7 hrs). Rest of the day at Darz.
Day 2 = After lunch to Gangtok by car/jeep 94 Kms . 4hrs (aprx)
Day 3 = Tsango lake in the morning. You will be back to Gangtak before Lunch. Rest of the day at Gangtok or can proceed to NJP/Bagdogra.

Padma

Hey,
You asked about the roads in March and it's actually a good time in Sikkim but they are bumpy and the long trips leave you shattered. I lived there for 4 months and no matter how many times I did it the trip from Pelling to Gantok (or Gantok to Darj or visa versa) took a day to get over, it's just tiring. Not to say don't do it, if you have time constraints it's probably still gonna be fun but your arse will hate you and you'll have a very healthy dose of jeep-neck. Also check out the permist for places like Tsomgo lake and make sure you can get them on the way or that you're not going to be trying ot get them from an office on a Sunday.

March is a great time to be able to see the mounatins from Pelling too and it's a sunnier period than April/May.
Padma

somnath

Hi mike,
Glad to know that my post helped you to make your tour program . It is OK, just a proposal –

Saturday 25 February Darjeeling Pelling
- Gantok is the capital of Sikkim so it will be easy to avail permits and other necessary administrative formalities required for foreigners. More over, if you are not traveling with a travel agent it will be better to book the North Sikkim tour, Tsomgo lake (not sure about Nathula. Sorry, I do not know they are allowing foreigners in that area after the settlement with China) etc from Gantok.
- Pelling can be used as exit point. You can come down to Shiliguri / NJP from Pelling also (communication is good, via Legship and Gazing).

Sunday 26 February Pelling Yuksam plus Pemayangtse, Khechepari
- you are spending one day in Pelling and there is a daylong sight seeing package that includes Pemayangtse, Khechepari etc. if you are going to avail that, I don’t think Yuksam will be possible. Considering the time constraint at Pelling Yuksam can be drooped. Last time the road condition was very poor so it took huge time to reach Yuksam. You will get latest news at Pelling itself.

Thursday 02 March Gangtok N Sikkim Lachung,Yumthang and Chopta Valley?
Friday 03 March N Sikkim N Sikkim
Saturday 04 March N Sikkim Gangtok

- I think, you are considering the 2 nights and 3 days package for the area. I had never been to N Sikkim. There are so many tour operators in Gangtok and they organize the tour and they will help you to arrange permits. There is a beautiful place called Katao, talk to the agent at Gangtok for the extra charges to be paid for that trip.
- Early March is a very tough time for Gurudongmar and chopta. Do not take any risk, just listen to your driver.



Will the roads be OK in N Sikkim in early March? Having read abhi's blog on his trip to Gurudongmar it sounds a little extreme

- True. Stick to the suggestion of your driver. Let me tell you, they are very honest and friendly people. Agents may ask huge amount from the tourists but rest assured, you will never be cheated.

last week's crash – only one in last 150 years, so no problem at all. This ride is a great one.
Present please


Cheers,
Somnath

somnath

It is time constraint only.

I can understand that you are not ready to leave the chance but my friend, just think that you are going all the way to Gangtok and retuning back after Tsomgo only. You are not doing justice to your efforts, money and Sikkim also.
If Tsomgo is the ultimate target, can think this way:
1- NJP/Bagdogra/Shiliguri to Gangtok. (Immediately select an agent for the Nathula, baba mandir and tsomgo)
2- Gangtok - Nathula, baba mandir, tsomgo and back to Gangtok.
3- Gangtok to NJP/Bagdogra/Shiliguri.
Else, just leave Tsomgo for the time and concentrate in Darjeeling (recommended).
But Sir, it is Himalayan road . Theoretically it is OK but practically?
Finally, Padma is sharing experience . I came to know about your teaching experience in Sikkim.

- Somnath

ddutta

3 days !!!!!!!!!!!!! & must see list is 1) Toy train Ride 2) Darz. & Kanchejungha 3)Tsongo Lake Or ( Gurudongmar Lake )

No ways , you have to take chance . There is no other alternative .
[ You can make it provided there is no road blockade due to landslide ]

Rob_The_Pom

I don't think you'll be disappointed whatever you do!
It's such a beautiful area.

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mikewill

What wonderful people there are on IM.
This info is invaluable. Thank you all very much indeed. I'm going to spend some time this weekend and try to sort it out using all your advice. I'll let you know what I come up with. Usual story - what do I have to leave out. Even with three months to play with there's still heaps we can't fit in. Never mind - there's always the next time!

Oh, and I definitely feel a Kolkata meet-up coming on.

Mike

Padma

Hey Somnath,
I'm wondering what you learned about my teaching in Sikkim, I'm hoping it's not that I have ruined the grammar of Sikkim's poor kids. I got three letters from kids this week and am aching to go back. Sikkim is an amazing place to live.

I should maybe share more about Sikkim now I'm back, will have to think about suitable info... I can at least give tips on the wonderful permit system. There is nothing like the joy of grovelling to be allowed to stay in Sikkim every 15 days for 4 months.

Re: the roads and rushing to see lots in a short time. I know that this is the perpetual dilemma of travelling and it's tedious to hear 'don't rush your trip' but keep in mind how rough the roads are in that part of the world, how long it takes to get from one place to another and the fact that it's higher altitude than most places you'll probably be visiting. If it's the first time at this height you might find it a bit tiring and that doesn't even come close to the tiredness caused by 5 hours in a jeep on hand-made dirt roads. March is a great time to visit Sikkim, it can still be cold but it's not as wet and you're more likely to see the mountains nice and clearly than in April/May. This year i talked to lots of trekkers who were bitterly dissapointed because they had been told to trek in may, in May it is wet and cloudy in Sikkim. The locals say it wasn't ten years ago but it sure is now. So March is a great time to go. Plus you have the added bonus of avoiding the hoardes fo tourists who come up from W. Bengal in May to experience the cold (or escape the heat?).

About Yuksom vs Pelling. Pelling (which I love because it is my second or third or maybe fourth) home is a string of hotels and not much more as far as the visitor is concerned. It gets great views of the mountains (when they feel like making an appearance) and it is a great place to get to/from in terms of jeeps. Anchila also makes the best chowmein in India (a big call but I feel she's up to the challenge).Yuksom is a lovelly, quiet, friendly place, possibly what Sikkim was before it got full of us tourists and the hotels that house us. It takes 3 hours plus to get there from Pelling and share jeeps back are limited too, they go early in the morning and you can't usually get there from Pelling until the afternoon which really limits what you can do if you have to go the next day. Check in some of the local retaurants about when they have jeeps going back the next day (once we were able to find a 2pm jeep). I like Yuksom as an escape and a bit of R n R but you won't see mountain views from there. They also have a very strange array of chocolates that they bring in from Siliguri for trekkers. I don't know if the trekkers like them but I think they're gross. This is the only place I have ever been i India that doesn't have cadbury chockies, so if, like me, you get terribly addicted, make sure you have some on you before going to Yuksom.

Back to the grindstone (and dreaming of the Himalayas).
Padma

rangss

Hmmmm...
Thanks Somnath & DDutta...good piece of advice...will stick to good old Darjeeling...
...else screw my employer , take off three more days and visit Sikkim :-)