Travelling Overland From Europe to India

Shiver me Timbers · Jul 29th, 2008, 20:07

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scandojazzbuff

Yes, you can avoid Afghanistan but I was hoping to hear your adventure through it.

I avoided the place, and went through Baluchistan, which was interesting enough. However, in Pakistan I did meet many people who went through Afghanistan, and reported high adventure, difficult but dramatic travel, and wonderful people. For me, the risk then and now is just a little much, but it's up to each individual.....

Quote:

I started my Asian expedition from Rodos, Greece, taking a small motor boat to the coast of Turkey and then exploring the Mediterranean coast from Ephesus all the way to Adana. Then headed into Syria, Lebanon, and, Iraq. Then into Abadan, Iran. So many memories, stories. I was young, alone, and, determined to make it to India.

Sounds like a good one. You may be interested to know that it was the similar stories of many senior IM members who did the overland thing in the 60's/70's which partly inspired me to go 3 years ago. I look forward to more contributions from you, and if you have any photos from those days, I and many others here would love to see them.......

Regarding Iraq, you may also be interested to know that a trickle of travellers are going to the northern Kurdish region - I met 2 in the last 2 months. Apparently it's one of the safest places in the region - Tony Wheeler even went last year, and it can be included as a side-trip on the way through the region.

machadinha · Jul 29th, 2008, 21:36

Word had it just after the last war in Afghanistan a steady trickle of people started traveling there again yes. (Wasn't Wheeler among them?)

How it is today I don't know though; word has it the place has only been getting steadily unsafer again for the past few years... (Word also has it people assume the countryside is unsafe, while the cities and notably Kabul would be less so, whereas the converse seems to be true. Depending on area too no doubt, I really wouldn't know, and wouldn't feel called to go find out right now.)

Your report on Iraqi Kurdistan surprises me again Shiver, isn't there on-and-off fighting going on with Turkey there? Or so the papers would have it. Although I wouldn't really be surprised if they have their stuff relatively together (and little involvement in the ongoing civil war, perhaps), as long as you're not being shelled. Perhaps this fighting is concentrated in the mountains and affects the populated areas there less?

Shiver me Timbers · Jul 29th, 2008, 21:43

Quote:

Your report on Iraqi Kurdistan surprises me again Shiver, isn't there on-and-off fighting going in with Turkey there?

There has been fighting in the past, and probably will be in the future, but it's confined to those mountain valleys where the PKK operate from, and at these times, the Turks shut the border anyway. Right now it's peaceful though, and crossing from Turkey poses no problems. Apparently, however, there's not a great deal to do there, it's more a kind of 'I've been in Iraq' thing, although I know from experience in s/e Turkey that the hospitality of the Kurds is a great attraction.

karuna · Jul 29th, 2008, 21:44

My aunt wrote a book about Georgia. She had the idea for it whilst in Delhi (just trying to fit an Indian link in there somewhere...stay on topic, like....

). She did all the overland stuff in the early 70s and has been going back here and there ever since. I have a copy if you're interested, Conor.

kalbarri · Jul 30th, 2008, 14:10

i was in iran and afghanistan in 1977 and did quick portrait sketches to earn my way through and ended up in india with the money i earned there. in iran i went to the homes and met the women and children, had great home cooked meals and loved the people. in afghanistan it was a lot more touchy as a woman alone. i had to be cautious there but i loved those guys too. they are really wild boys and i eventually had one guy looking after me who got customers to get their pics done. it is the only place where people ripped me off. sneaked off with their pics saying they would be back shortly... it was amazing scenery through those countries and i admire the afghanis for their endurence in surviving in a land that in some places reminded me of pictures i have seen of the moon.

backseatbrat · Aug 22nd, 2008, 04:57

Wowwwwwww....
Thats one Adventure I would love to take atleast once in lifetime......Great Info....
Doing a Silk Route would be like the Greatest Adventure ever.

machadinha · Aug 22nd, 2008, 23:44

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shiver me Timbers

There has been fighting in the past, and probably will be in the future, but it's confined to those mountain valleys where the PKK operate from, and at these times, the Turks shut the border anyway. Right now it's peaceful though, and crossing from Turkey poses no problems. Apparently, however, there's not a great deal to do there, it's more a kind of 'I've been in Iraq' thing, although I know from experience in s/e Turkey that the hospitality of the Kurds is a great attraction.

Yes; to pick back up on this, reminds me of a friend who went there (to Turkey) all young and goofy and innocent, 1980s I guess. Ended up in a place called eastern Turkey, blissfully unaware of any Kurdish issues. He got under army fire there even I think, together with the locals, but, spoke very highly of the Kurds and their hospitality, indeed.

Funny enough, just after we were writing the above, reports came in of Turkish fighters having bombed Kurdish Iraq again... some PKK mountain caves indeed, or reportedly.

And re: The Caucasus, we know what's going on in Georgia right now of course... Was wondering how you look back on your quite recent visit and departure there now. Relieved, slightly apprehensive? That's not necessarily a call for you to answer if you don't feel like btw, just one of those things I guess.

Shiver me Timbers · Aug 23rd, 2008, 00:05

Obviously quite relieved, I got out 2 weeks before the fighting broke out. I won't bother giving you all my actual views on the causes/who's to blame and all that. Just that I was warned by the locals many times that something was going to happen eventually.

Guess I just got lucky, it was weird seeing Gori destroyed by Russian airforce and tanks, it's Stalin's birthplace and a popular day-trip from Tbilisi to see his house and the museum (where Stalin is GOD!!!). I have a picture of myself on top of the castle there overlooking the city, saw the exact same view on Sky News, only with half the buildings destroyed.

Having said that, I would highly recommend Georgia to any lover of mountains and traditional cultures and hospitality, as well, of course, as the occassional drink (!).

machadinha · Aug 23rd, 2008, 00:19

Hmm, yes, thanks for your thoughts. Not knowing the geography there well, I looked up Gori and its recent history; I see that's where that Dutch cameraman got killed, been all over the news here of course. What I was less aware of is it's alleged he was the victim of cluster bombs.

'Tis another sad situation out there in any case...

Shiver me Timbers · Aug 23rd, 2008, 01:24

By the way Mach, as you seem to be interested, here's a website for travelling in Iraqi Kurdistan, which seems to be kept up-todate.....

Backpacking Iraqi Kurdistan

It has regular safety updates, and loads of info on getting around, things to do, etc.

machadinha · Aug 23rd, 2008, 01:48

Thanks Shiver me, another one for the bookmarks. I'll look into updating that links thread of mine some time soon, will include it.

pranavganesh · Aug 23rd, 2008, 02:22

Dunno if it helps or not...

Was in Syria... survived for little more than 15 USD... and then in Jordan... for less than 25 USD...

Same goes for Israel... again survived in Jerusalem for little less than 25 USD...

Of course they do not fall in the route ... but worth making a trip to... anyways

Lou Wilson · Aug 26th, 2008, 23:23

A few Overland England to Goa 1970 photos at
http://www.overbrookfountains.com/1S...aIndia1.html#z

meals · Oct 22nd, 2008, 14:36

Fantastic info about travels overland. We have just joined the IM team and are driving from Chennai to London starting in January ... so any advice is greatly appreciated. I'm very excited about Iran.

camelgirl · Oct 22nd, 2008, 22:01

What route are you planning? You probably know you will encounter some bad winter weather in January, so how are you planning for it?

Jul 29th, 2008, 21:36	#77
machadinha Not Your Guru Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: yörp Posts: 11,445	Word had it just after the last war in Afghanistan a steady trickle of people started traveling there again yes. (Wasn't Wheeler among them?) How it is today I don't know though; word has it the place has only been getting steadily unsafer again for the past few years... (Word also has it people assume the countryside is unsafe, while the cities and notably Kabul would be less so, whereas the converse seems to be true. Depending on area too no doubt, I really wouldn't know, and wouldn't feel called to go find out right now.) Your report on Iraqi Kurdistan surprises me again Shiver, isn't there on-and-off fighting going on with Turkey there? Or so the papers would have it. Although I wouldn't really be surprised if they have their stuff relatively together (and little involvement in the ongoing civil war, perhaps), as long as you're not being shelled. Perhaps this fighting is concentrated in the mountains and affects the populated areas there less? __________________ Reading tips, all picked up at IndiaMike : INDAX's A Comprehensive Guide To India / Dinoj Surendran's Desi Humor / ITHVC on Culture Shock & Travel Health / JetLag Travel Guides For the Undiscerning Traveller / India Travel Links

Jul 29th, 2008, 21:44	#79
karuna The cat's mother Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: the wrong side of the Y-A-M-U-N-A Posts: 2,012	My aunt wrote a book about Georgia. She had the idea for it whilst in Delhi (just trying to fit an Indian link in there somewhere...stay on topic, like....). She did all the overland stuff in the early 70s and has been going back here and there ever since. I have a copy if you're interested, Conor. __________________ Indiamike mod squad's odd bod. Coexist. [Indian Mona Lisa by Dinesh; can't find original uploader to credit in full.]

Aug 22nd, 2008, 04:57	#81
backseatbrat Rookie Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: "where traffic lights are always Green" Posts: 10	Wowwwwwww.... Thats one Adventure I would love to take atleast once in lifetime......Great Info.... Doing a Silk Route would be like the Greatest Adventure ever. __________________ "Not everyone who wanders is lost"

Oct 22nd, 2008, 14:36	#89
meals Member Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Melbourne Posts: 8	Travelling overland... Fantastic info about travels overland. We have just joined the IM team and are driving from Chennai to London starting in January ... so any advice is greatly appreciated. I'm very excited about Iran.

Oct 22nd, 2008, 22:01	#90
camelgirl 10 year Visa okee dokee Join Date: May 2005 Location: Swannanoa NC usa Posts: 1,103	What route are you planning? You probably know you will encounter some bad winter weather in January, so how are you planning for it? __________________ My selected India photos http://www.indiamike.com/photopost/s...r/7030/cat/500

Jul 30th, 2008, 14:10	#80
kalbarri kalbarri Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: WESTERN australia Posts: 479	i was in iran and afghanistan in 1977 and did quick portrait sketches to earn my way through and ended up in india with the money i earned there. in iran i went to the homes and met the women and children, had great home cooked meals and loved the people. in afghanistan it was a lot more touchy as a woman alone. i had to be cautious there but i loved those guys too. they are really wild boys and i eventually had one guy looking after me who got customers to get their pics done. it is the only place where people ripped me off. sneaked off with their pics saying they would be back shortly... it was amazing scenery through those countries and i admire the afghanis for their endurence in surviving in a land that in some places reminded me of pictures i have seen of the moon.

Aug 23rd, 2008, 00:05	#83
Shiver me Timbers Colder than a well digger's ass Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: North Atlantic Posts: 1,663	Obviously quite relieved, I got out 2 weeks before the fighting broke out. I won't bother giving you all my actual views on the causes/who's to blame and all that. Just that I was warned by the locals many times that something was going to happen eventually. Guess I just got lucky, it was weird seeing Gori destroyed by Russian airforce and tanks, it's Stalin's birthplace and a popular day-trip from Tbilisi to see his house and the museum (where Stalin is GOD!!!). I have a picture of myself on top of the castle there overlooking the city, saw the exact same view on Sky News, only with half the buildings destroyed. Having said that, I would highly recommend Georgia to any lover of mountains and traditional cultures and hospitality, as well, of course, as the occassional drink (!).

Aug 23rd, 2008, 00:19	#84
machadinha Not Your Guru Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: yörp Posts: 11,445	Hmm, yes, thanks for your thoughts. Not knowing the geography there well, I looked up Gori and its recent history; I see that's where that Dutch cameraman got killed, been all over the news here of course. What I was less aware of is it's alleged he was the victim of cluster bombs. 'Tis another sad situation out there in any case...

Aug 23rd, 2008, 01:24	#85
Shiver me Timbers Colder than a well digger's ass Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: North Atlantic Posts: 1,663	By the way Mach, as you seem to be interested, here's a website for travelling in Iraqi Kurdistan, which seems to be kept up-todate..... Backpacking Iraqi Kurdistan It has regular safety updates, and loads of info on getting around, things to do, etc.

Aug 23rd, 2008, 01:48	#86
machadinha Not Your Guru Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: yörp Posts: 11,445	Thanks Shiver me, another one for the bookmarks. I'll look into updating that links thread of mine some time soon, will include it.

Aug 23rd, 2008, 02:22	#87
pranavganesh Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: India Posts: 142	Dunno if it helps or not... Was in Syria... survived for little more than 15 USD... and then in Jordan... for less than 25 USD... Same goes for Israel... again survived in Jerusalem for little less than 25 USD... Of course they do not fall in the route ... but worth making a trip to... anyways

Aug 26th, 2008, 23:23	#88
Lou Wilson Untitled Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Philadelphia. PA USA Posts: 125	A few Overland England to Goa 1970 photos at http://www.overbrookfountains.com/1S...aIndia1.html#z

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