The Land of the Thunder Dragon : A West Bhutan Travelogue

The Initial Planning :

We are planning for the last few years to have explored the Western Regions of Bhutan in a short vacation. But due to several circumstances this plan never materializes out. So this time, on August 2011, when one of my friends suddenly get two holidays at the August End starting from Wednesday, after having lots of arguments about the destination, we at last again round back to our old dream destination – BHUTAN.

To plan the itinerary for this is a bit tough thing to fit into as we have only 5 days in our hand and I was determined to cover at least 3 Destinations there : THIMPHU, PARO and PUNAKHA … and if possible the CHELELA PASS towards HAA. All of my friends told me to drop this plan as this looks not at all feasible to them. Apart from being tough, also there are chances of heavy showers in Bhutan in the late August. But we stick to this as we need to carry out this time whatever happened. In addition to this, one of my friends suggests that we should also include our parents in this trip as he wants that our parents should also be a part of this nice experience. So, altogether we have now become 12 Members.

The next thing that is most important is the Budget. From everyone who have experience of being in Bhutan told me that the place is very costly, specially the Food. They told me that we should at least plan this, keeping it in mind around Rs. 12000 to Rs. 15000 per head. I contacted some Travel agents based on Kolkata, Jaigaon (the Border Town) and Phuentsholling and most of them quoted a price almost similar to this. After a lot of bargain over the phone , we at last get one person who give us a quotation of Rs. 47,000 for this total trip from HASIMARA to HASIMARA which includes 2 Qualis cars with drivers and Hotels at Thimphu and Paro. Food at our own cost.

We then went to Bhutan Consulate House based on DumDum Nager Bazar, Kolkata to have our entry permit ready for Thimphu and Paro.

Process of obtaining the Entry Permit :

You need to make the Permit at least 3 weeks in advance before you start your journey.

This Entry Permit is applicable for only visiting Thimphu and Paro. To visit other places in Bhutan, you need to make separate Permits once you reached Thimphu.

First Day, you need to carry the following Documents with you to submit in the Office –

1) The complete filled up Entry Permit Application Form (that you can download from the Internet or can collect it personally from the office).

[I have attached the Entry Application Form here. If anyone require this, he/she can download]

2) The Xerox of any Photo Identity Proof (Passport, Voter ID Card etc.). For the kids who do not posses any of these, take the Birth Certificate along with an attestation letter from the school.
3) You must carry the Original of the Photo Identity Proof with you, without seeing this they will not allow you to issue the Permit.
4) 2 copies of Passport-size Photographs.

After collecting these documents, they will provide you a date when you need to come and collect the Permits. One person from the group can go and apply for all the Permits for the group, provided he has all the above mentioned documents for each individual. No need for all individual to go personally.
Just go on the given date and collect the Permits for all. Also, you can ask from them for an Illustrated Map and Information Brochure about Bhutan.

Please note that – There is NO Charge required to make this Permit, its absolutely free. Do not give any money, if they ask for any amount to make the process quicker or so.

The Trip Started :

Day 1 (Tuesday) –
We board on the Kanchankanya Express (3149) from Sealdah at 8:30 PM

Day 2 (Wednesday) – The Onward Journey :

We reached Hasimara at around 11:45 am in the morning. Though the actual timing was around 10:30 am, this train usually runs late after reaching NJP. But the views on both side of the track after NJP are quite amazing with rivers, hills, tea gardens and forests.

After reaching Hasimara, we immediately board the cars we have already confirmed over phone that was waiting outside the railway station. After a 30 minutes ride, we reach Jaigaon at around 12:30pm. We handed over our Permits to the driver to issue their Vehicle Permit. In the mean time, we take two rooms in a hotel in Jaigaon just by the side of the Bhutan Gate for Rs. 700 for two for 1 Hour. We refreshed there, and then go the nearby Annapurna Hotel to have our lunch with rice, vegetables, egg and fish curries.

After that, we again board on our cars and started for Thimphu at around 2:30 pm. Just after crossing Phuentsholling, we need to show our Permits at a checkpost. Then a continuous drive, only we took a small tea break at an Army Canteen (These canteens are the best and cheapest options for the Food as well). We reached Thimphu at around 9 pm (6-7 Hours). Our Hotel (Hotel Choephel Norkyi) was pre-booked by our agent just opposite the Clock-Tower Square.

The Hotel Rooms are very nice and spacious with Sofa sets, television and clean bed and bathrooms. They have shortage of double bed rooms, so they gave us triple bed rooms. After accommodating all, we found one room to be extra. We ask them to cancel that room. But they do not agree with it. So we ask our drivers to take that room and stay.

We took the dinner at the hotel itself with rice, roti, chicken, paneer and other staffs. The price is a little bit higher, but its ok if you are accustomed of being in the Resturants in Kolkata. Nothing high price or over-budgeted as such.
After dinner, we took a short stroll outside. It was cold but its not chilling. You can enjoy it.

Day 3 (Thursday) – THIMPHU:We woke up a bit late, get refreshed and started for the Thimphu Sightseeing.
Thimphu is a very cool and clean place to be in.

We see - Changangkha Lhakhang, National Memorial Chorten, Zangthoperi Lhakhang,National Folk Heritage Museum, Textile Museum,National Library, Trashi Chhoe Dzong,Simtokha Dzong, Takin Preserve Park-Motithang.

Of the above, I especially like the National Memorial Chorten. We also have the ‘Prasad’ offered to the local people in the monastery (consisting of Bhutanese red rice, Kewa Datshi – potatoes and cheese and fried egg).

In the afternoon, after finishing the sightseeing, we ask our car to drop at the Coronation Park. Located on the banks of the river (near the city stadium), this 5.6 acres of parkland offer a pleasant and relaxing environment to stroll or to sit and watch the river flow by. We spent a good time there. As evening grew darker, we returned back.

On the way back, we roam around the shops of Thimphu and watching the night-life there. We think to buy some souvenirs from there but everything was so over-priced, we returned empty handed.

We have our dinner in a nearby hotel where we have already ordered in the morning. Returned hotel, watch a movie in the laptop and go off for sleep.

[ If you have time with you, you can ask your driver to go to these places - Archers match or the paper and incense house of manufacturing, Botanical Gardens-Serbithang, Zorig Chusum School of Traditional Arts, National Institute of Traditional Medicine.
Excursions : Cheri Gompa, Tango Gompa, Phajoding Gompa, Thujidrag Gompa, Jigme Dorji National Park
Must visit the famous Thimphu Weekend Market (if on a weekend).]

Note that- All the important places in Thimphu closed by 4:30 pm. So try to start early, otherwise you will miss the places.

Also, give the Xerox copies of your permits with Originals to your driver and ask them to make the Entry Permit and Vehicle Permit for Punakha within 3 pm that time. Otherwise you will not able to go to Punakha the next day.


Day 4 (Friday) – PUNAKHA :

We started at around 8 am in the morning from Thimphu towards Punakha. En-route saw some nice monasteries and the 51.5 mt bronze Statue of Sakyamuni Buddha, sitting on top of Kuensel Phodrang hill that you can see from any part of Thimphu. The site also offers unobstructed views over the Thimphu Valley - especially stunning at sunset. Also we stopped on the road to capture the fascinating view of the City from the top by the side of the Wang Chuu River.

We have to show our Punakha Permits at a check-post. At around 11am we reached the Dochula chorten (108 stupas) at Dochula Pass (10,500ft). The 180 Degree magnificent view of the snow-clas Himalayan Ranges including the Kanchanjungha is breathtaking from here. Also there is a nice Monastry by the side of the Pass on the top of a small hillock. We spent there almost 45 minutes and then started again.

At around 1 pm we reached the Punakha town (rather we can call it a cluster of houses just by the River). There is only a single resturant, where we ordered our lunch. We then move towards the Punakha Dzong (most famous and beautiful). This is one of the finest architectural delight I encountered in Bhutan. It is wonderfully located at the confluence of the Pho Chhu and Mo Chhu rivers surrounded by hills – an immensely picturesque location.
[We capture this whole 180 degree view of the Punakha Dzong along with river confluence and Hills from a small park just opposite to the Punakha High School on the way to the Dzong.]

After visiting the dzong, we also share a nice conversation with Lamas in the Monastry, then we head towards the river to touch the water. The river water can easily be reached by a side-track just by the Dzong. We also meet the local kids and students who were doing some sketched sitting in the park. We also meet meet some locals while having our lunch on the restaurant way back. We find that all the local people are very much friendly and helpful.

[Other Places nearby Punakha : Guru Rinpoche Caves (Geon Tsephu) and Koma Hot Springs (Koma Tsachu) - 12 km drive from Punakha to Mitesgang followed by a 2 hours hike]

After finishing our lunch, its already 3:30 pm and we started towards Wangdeou Phodrang. The Monastry at Wangdeou Phodrang is also very special location-wise and architecture-wise. The specilaity of this Dzong is that it looks like hanging from the mountain edge overlooking the river. The Dzong also has a very large courtyard full of Pegions. We move towards the interiormost part of the dzong and catch some nice moments of the Monastry Life. At one part 3-4 Lamas were trying to play a very large singas. At the very last room, a number of young Lamas were dancing and singing in a very festive mood. We watched their cultural activites for sometime and then returned back. On our way back, some little children greet us with very small flowers and ask us whether we have chocolates with us. We have some which we gave them and they were happy like anything.
We reached our car and started for Paro. If you need to go Paro from Punakha, you have to again cross Thimphu. We reached Thimphu at around 7 pm, have tea and move for Paro. At around 9 pm we reached Paro.

It was quite cold at Paro. We enter our Hotel (Hotel Paro) pre-booked by our Agent. Have our dinner and went for sleep.

Day 5 (Saturday) – PARO :

We started at around 8 am for the Chele La Pass (the Highest point on Dantak Roads – 1388 m) towards Haa.

[We have to decide between the two – 1) The Chele La Pass 2) Taktsang Monastery (Tiger's Nest). But as reaching the Taktsang Monastery is 2-3 hours up-hill hike and we have senior members in our team, we decided to drop this. Our car charged for an extra Rs. 1300 for two cars for going to Chele La Pass.]

The way to Chele La Pass is awesome in countryside with lush green valleys, rivers, yellow flowers, and Apple Gardens. We reached Chele La Pass at around 10:30 am. The place is cold surrounded by snow-capped mountain (though the presence some electric towers is quite disturbing to the view ). It is the highest point in Bhutan. Heard that the total area and the road is completely covered with snow in the Winter time. The place is nicely decorated with cloloured Flags. There is a small Temple up-hill. We found that a hotel is under construction at this place.

We head back towards Paro after spending some time there. On the way back, we stopped at a place and watch the nicely-located Paro Airport in the valley by the side of the river. This Airport is another option of getting directly into Bhutan (operated by DRUK AIR). We found the view of taking off of a Aeroplane in between the hills is quite fascinating.

Next, we see the 6-floored National Museum of Bhutan (Ta Dzong Fort). From this fort, the top view of the Paro city along with Paro Chhu River is fascinating. For entering into this museum, you need to put your camera and mobile in a locker. This potrays the Historical and Cultural Heritage of Bhutan in all respect. After visiting this Fort, we get back to our hotel, have our lunch and take some rest.

At around 3 pm, we went to the Drukgyel Dzong, a very old and ruined place. On the way our driver shows from a very far distance, the Taktsang Monastery. Then we visit Kyichu Lhakang, the Oldest Monastry of Bhutan. We see the beautiful Lamps in the monastery and pay our homage to Lord Buddha’s beautiful idol. There are two Orange trees just outside the main Monastry house which remain full of Oranges throughout the year!!! After that we have some photo-sessions in the green paddy fields in the valley and on the river-side.
We drop our parents at the hotel and goes in the Paro Market to see if anything can be bought. Here also we found that the items are over-priced. We meet there a local guy who owned a mobile shop in Paro. We get to be very close friends. He took us through the streets of Paro showing us the places. The town is so small that you can make round of it within half an hour. The guy was so nice that he present me some old coins of Bhutan (coins are almost rare in Bhutan now-a-days. Only Notes are available.) which are the only souvenirs that I carried back to home from Bhutan. He also asked me to stay at his house next time when I will be there in Paro.

[Other places to visit in Paro - Rinpung Dzong, Drakhapo, Jangsarbu Lhakhang (located behind Paro Dzong),Kila Gompa,Parl Market]

Day 6 (Sunday) – The Return Journey :

We started from Paro at around 9 am in the Morning towards to Phuentsholling. Have some small breaks at river-side and other places. Have lunch at the Army Canteen.

Reached Phuentsholling at around 3 pm (6-7 Hours). Its getting foggy outside. We visited the Karbandi Monastery. Think have to have some shopping in Phuentsholling, but our time does not permit.

[Other places to visit in Phuentsholling - Crocodile Breeding Centre,Chukha Hydrothermal Project]

We reached Jaigaon at 4 pm … quickly goes to a restaurant, buy rotis, rice and vegetable curries for our dinner in train. Then we took some snaps by the side of the beautiful Bhutan Gate. When we finished, its already 4:45 pm. We started for Hasimara. We reached Hasimara Railway Station at around 5:15 pm. Filled up our bottles with water.

The train Kanchankanya Express (3150) from Hasimara was exactly on time at 5:30 PM.

Day -7 (Monday) – Reach Sealdah at 08:30 am. And our Trip ends happily.

Some Other Important Informations :

1) Although we have heard that the Rs.500 INR is not accepted, we found that it is being widely accepted anywhere where we have offered.

2) We saw ATM in Thimphu but did not use it. We carry a good amount of cash with us.

3) Make a number of Xerox copies of the Permit and the Photo ID proof, and carry the Originals with you as well with some passport sized photographs, as it will be required to make your Permit for Punakha from Thimphu.

4) We stay in Bhutan from 31-Aug-2011 to 4-Sep-2011. Though people and the weather forecast advised that there will be heavy shower at the August-end, we get a very clear and sunny weather throughout except little drizzles at Paro in one evening.

5) It is advisable to carry as much as dry foods you can as Bhutan does not have roadside eateries and you have to spend a long time in the car amidst very uninhabited roads or small villages.

6) The main room of the Idol in most of the Temples is Monasteries remained closed at some particular parts of the day for worship or other reason (For example, the National Memorial Chorten in Thimphu remain closed in the noon. We can be there at around 4:30 pm to see the evening worship). Check in advance about the Open Timings to have a visit to the Idol.

7) If you are travelling as a group of young people and you are in Bhutan in the off-season, my suggestion is not book the Hotel in advance. You will get a good bargain at the spot.

8) Though we get a good bargain from our Travel Agent, the drivers he provided are very very ill-mannered and not co-opertive at all. Both are Bengali driver (I remember the name of one is Raju, Agent Name : Abhijit). They tried to skip as much as places possible and want to lie down in their room. Though we tried to provide them as much as facilities possible, they are behaving very arrogantly. To get rid of such situations, you need to clear with your travel agent in the very beginning what are spots you want visit within the budget he has quoted. You need to carry the list of Tourist Attractions with you always, otherwise you will miss places.

9) Try to have some authentic Bhutanese Cuisine. We tried Kewa Datshi (Potatoes 'n' Cheese) and Jasha Maroo (Minced Chicken). We found Kewa Datshi to be very tasty.

10) Public smoking though a crime and the general law are you can’t carry cigarettes in Bhutan, we observed that several people are carrying it hidden. I have no idea what is the penalty if one get caught. Liquor is comparatively cheaper or almost the same price compared to that in India (try for the whole seller shops). Some brands are really very tasty (we liked the Special Courier Whisky).

11) Our Total Cost for the Trip is Rs. 6000 per Head including Train Fare (Sleeper Class), Fooding, Lodging, Car and everything.

12) Address of the Bhutan Consulate :

The Royal Bhutan Consulate, Bhutan Hosue,
6/1, Mall Road, Dumdum, Kolkata – 700 080

To avoid confusion and misunderstandings, please note that the entry procedure described by the OP is only applicable to Indian citizens, for other nationals the usual procedures with daily charge (including accomodation, food, transport and guide) applies. Please read various threads on IM and on the Bhutan site

Suvadeep, thanks for this travelogue, can you please tell a little more about the 'Prasad' ?

Are the visitors/travelor allowed to have the 'Prasad' ?
At what time the 'Prasad' is distributed ?
Is there any type of formalities be done prior getting the 'Prasad' ?

Please, enlightened with these info !

Thank you.

p.s. I don't know if I have missed this part in any other members threads, but only found out in your travelogue about the prasad. I really want to exprience this religious part of bhutan.

Dear Suvadeep, thanks for the nice and elaborate travelogue.
I want to know about the weather you had to face. As you went durin August last, a monsoon period, did you face heavy rain, cloudy weather? And do landslide occur in Bhutan during rainy season? Please reply, as my planning depends greatly on this info.

Hi,

Before starting our journey, everyone has warned us that we are going to face rains or bad weather in the late August.

But in reality, we get an absolutely bright and stunning weather.
No rains at all, bright sunny days (you can have an idea seeing the photos), no reports of landslides as well.

I don't know about July, but if you are planning to go by that time, keep umbrellas and raincoats with you.

Thank you Suvadeep for your quick reply. I have also mailed Mr Dorjee of Hotel Tandin of Thimpu, and he assured about the weather. Now I have decided and in the planning stage of my journey. And I am sure of getting useful tips from you and other IMers.

Suvadeep, thanks for this travelogue, can you please tell a little more about the 'Prasad' ?

Are the visitors/travelor allowed to have the 'Prasad' ?
At what time the 'Prasad' is distributed ?
Is there any type of formalities be done prior getting the 'Prasad' ?

Please, enlightened with these info !

Thank you.

p.s. I don't know if I have missed this part in any other members threads, but only found out in your travelogue about the prasad. I really want to exprience this religious part of bhutan.

May be the "Prosad" distribution is time and/or day specific. We visited the place around 11 AM and had spent appox. half an hour or so, but we did not notice any prosad being distributed over there.