Our Bhutan Trip – a senior citizen's effort to backpack!

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#1081 Oct 22nd, 2014, 01:17
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#1081
Day 1 - 2nd Oct: Mumbai – Bagdogra – Phuentsholing

Before I start pl keep in mind that we had undertaken this tour during peak season (Durga Puja season + 5-day long weekend + Thimphu Tshechu).

We took a flight from Mumbai to Bagdogra reaching Bagdogra at 12 Noon. As we were a six member group with few senior citizens and lot of luggage (as it was 18 day tour covering Bhutan, Shillong and Cherrapunjee), we decided to hire a private cab for Phuentsholing which is a four hour drive (including half an hour lunch break. On reaching Bagdogra we could not find a 6/7 seater taxi for Phuentsholing easily. We visited prepaid taxi counter inquiring the rates and availability. The prepaid counter person initially quoted the rate of Rs2500, but there were no taxis available even at the Prepaid taxi counter. There were just 2 taxis at the taxi stand which were willing to head to Phuentsholing and looking at the shortage, they started inflating rates. After lot of discussions and bargaining we finally hired Innova for Rs2750. We reach Phuentsholing by evening 5 PM and checked in Hotel Sinchula for Night Halt. We insisted our driver to drop us at the hotel gate.

The taxi driver was a nice friendly guy and the taxi hired was a private vehicle without a carrier. As there was dearth of taxis at Bagdogra airport, we had no option but to opt for a taxi without a carrier.
Taxi driver name: Chotunsaha
Mob no: 9933722508

Triple bedded Deluxe Room Rates: Rs 1950 + 10% BST + 10% Service Charges
Triple bedded rooms were on 2nd and 3rd floor and were very large and clean with running hot water. Bathrooms were clean and as big as a room in a flat in metro city

Hotel Sinchula is just 3-5 min walk from the Bhutan gate and is exactly opposite Hotel Pelri.

The hotel manager suggested us to go to the immigration office early next day by around 8-8:30 AM (office opens at 9 PM) as there was huge rush of tourists in past few days. There were in all 400+ groups who had applied for permits on 2nd Oct and these permits were pending to issued even till 9 PM.

We had all our meals in Hotel Kuenga which has a pure Veg restaurant and is just opposite the immigration office. Food was very nice, but service too slow. Once in Bhutan, it is better to get used to early dinner as almost all hotels and shops in all towns shut by 8:00-8:30 PM

One thing I noticed about most restaurants in Bhutan is that they serve only freshly cooked food, unlike most hotels in Indian cities.

Next day morning, as was suggested by the Hotel manager, we reached the immigration office by 8:30 AM for applying for the permit. We got the permit application form photocopied (for six members) from the local stationary shop (each Xerox copy costs Rs5). We were second in the queue and kept waiting till the counter opened at 9 AM. While in queue, we could see many people directly entering the office even before 9 AM. On inquiring, we found that the application forms were accepted and tokens were issued directly inside the office much before the official opening time of 9AM. Despite reaching the immigration office well in time (or rather much before time) we were allotted token # 25 (each token represents one group). Our number came in two hours, post which we were asked to undergo biometric screening process. Every individual has to undergo the biometric screening where finger prints and photographs are taken. The permit is then issued for the period of 7 days for Paro and Thimphu only.

There are two mobile service operators in Bhutan, Tashi cell and Bhutan Telecom ltd. We applied for Tashi Cell sim card. There is no need to submit the copy of entry permit to apply for tourist sim card (just passport copy is sufficient). The sim card is issued immediately with one month validity.
2G pack rates - Rs100 for 400 MB
3G pack rates – Rs 100 for 100 MB and Rs 300 for 1.5 GB
Rs 200 worth of recharge would yield talk time of Rs190 and Rs10 was charged as new sim card charges

If someone is planning to cover Bhutan from West to east, I would suggest to opt for Bhutan telecom sim card as it has better coverage in central and eastern Bhutan with 3G facility even in Eastern Bhutan. Tashi cell does not offer 3G in most places beyond Paro and Thimphu.

Call rate to India Rs7.5 per minute
SMS rate Rs 5
Last edited by mehpra; Oct 22nd, 2014 at 08:37.. Reason: Added some info
#1082 Oct 22nd, 2014, 01:24
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#1082
Nice beginning. Promising to be a blockbuster, eventually! Pour some photographs, please.
#1083 Oct 22nd, 2014, 01:37
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#1083
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Room in Hotel Sinchula (This is just one of the two halls in our deluxe triple bedded room)

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Bhutan Gate and Immigration office (the building on the left)

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All shops closed by 8 PM

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Kuenga Restaurant, one of the very few (or may be the only) Pure veg restaurants in Phuentsholing

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Tashi cell network coverage
#1084 Oct 22nd, 2014, 02:03
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#1084
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Room in Hotel Sinchula

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Zangtho Pelri Lakhang

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Crocodile Park, Phuentsholing


After the permit was issued we visited Zangtho Pelri Lakhang which is in the heart of the border town, just opposite Kuenga Restaurant. As we had heavy breakfast in the morning, we decided to skip our lunch and proceed to Paro. Phuentsholing climate was extremely warm in the noon and very pleasant in evenings.

Our next immediate task in hand was to hire a 7 seater vehicle (with carrier) for Paro. We went to Phuentsholing taxi stand only to find that there was just one 7 seater taxi (Bolero) and many 4-seater vehicles. The taxi drivers gheraoed us and insisted to hire two small cars as there was shortage of 7-seater Vehicles. Rate quoted was Rs2500 for a small car. We directly went to the bolero taxi driver to bargain for rates and the rate was decided at Rs4000 for Paro and Rs4200 (including visit to Crocodile park). We opted for the second option.

We checked out of the hotel by 12:30 PM
Hotel Sinchula: +975 5 252589 (Contact person: Biman Barua)

Crocodile Park is in the outskirts of Phuentsholing, just 5 mins drive from the town (Not walkable though)
Last edited by mehpra; Oct 22nd, 2014 at 09:06..
#1085 Oct 22nd, 2014, 23:14
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  • bastav.m is offline
#1085
ASHIS da,
Is there any option to go to Phuntsholing from New Mal Junction? I am asking because of the uncertainty of getting reservation in Kanchankanya Exp. on opening day.
#1086 Oct 22nd, 2014, 23:47
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#1086
Quote:
Originally Posted by bastav.m View Post ASHIS da,
Is there any option to go to Phuntsholing from New Mal Junction? I am asking because of the uncertainty of getting reservation in Kanchankanya Exp. on opening day.
Yes, of course. In fact, New Mal Junction and Hasimara is on the same route. From New Mal Junction, you can easily reach Hasimara-Jaigaon-Phuentsolling by hiring a cab. There may be occasional bus service also, which I am not aware of. The distance would be around 100 KM or so.

If, however, you do not get reservation in Kanchan Kanya Exp, you may consider to reach Alipurduar or New Alipurduar Station. There are many trains on this route from Howrah/Sealdah/Kolkata Stations. The distance between New Alipurduar/Alipurduar and Phuentsolling would be less than that of New Mal and Phuentsolling.
#1087 Oct 23rd, 2014, 02:19
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#1087
Phuentsholing to Paro is ~170 Kms (around 6 hours drive). The road ascends sharply in 20-25 Kms and one starts to feel drop in temperature. The whole route is quite scenic. It was overcast with fog rolling down the valley.

There are two check posts enroute where the permit needs to be stamped. The first check post is about 10-15 min drive from Phuentsholing and the other one at Tanalum (just before Chuzom - the place where route bifurcates – one going towards Paro and other towards Thimphu). One needs to clearly mention at the check post where we are heading to.

We reached Paro by 7 Pm and it was too dark by then. Our plan was to spend 3 days and 4 nights in Paro (One day for local sightseeing, one for Haa Valley and one for Tigers nest)

We had done booking for two rooms in Hotel KK, Paro for 1 night and three rooms in Hotel Jigmelling for remaining 3 nights. Hotel Paro is just next to Petrol Pump and Taxi Stand. Hotel Jigmelling is exactly opposite to Hotel KK

On reporting at Hotel KK, we were told that only one room was available and the 2nd room was already allotted to someone else on priority. When we showed all the correspondence documents they acknowledged, but failed to provide any room despite several discussions.

The hotel manager Mr. Dorji even tried to check if there were rooms available in any other hotels in Paro, but whole of Paro was packed. There were no rooms in any hotel in Paro. After several discussions and arguments, we decided to finally settle down in 1 room as we had to spend just 1 night. The room was just big enough to fit six members. The rooms were not cleaned. There was no supply of Hot water even for bathing as geyser was non functional. There was no room service. On complaining about the broken geyser, the lady agreed to send someone to check. The local boy tried to fix the geyser, but while fixing there was short circuit. Finally we requested him to unplug the geyser. This is a family owned hotel. The hotel cook fell ill that day and the family members were having tough time in the kitchen cooking food for the guests (Luckily we did not order food from the hotel).

While we were sitting in the reception lobby, we saw two young boys at the reception. These guys had booked one room in some hotel in Paro but the hotel owner did not provide them any room (despite having confirmed booking). Next day, while roaming around in the market, we even heard few local guys saying that there was a group which reached Paro from Phuntsholing at around 10 PM without having any room booking. They had to spend a night in a cab.

Based on these experiences, all I can say is that it is better to book rooms in advance if you are travelling during the peak season as Paro still does not have sufficient infrastructure to absorb heavy influx of tourists. There are many hotels which are under construction and are coming up in Paro.

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Waterfalls enroute Paro

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Hotel KK, Paro

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1st Check post which is at 10-15 mins drive from Phuentsholing

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Six members cramped into one room

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View of Rainbow from our room in Hotel KK

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2nd Check post at Tanalum (just before Chuzom)
#1088 Oct 23rd, 2014, 14:49
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#1088
@bastav.m

On my recent trip, I used the services of a local Thimphu Taxi driver Jigmi, mobile +975 1763 5049. He speaks good english and hindi and I would recommend him. Bhutan has introduced service charge on fuel, mobile phones and many other utilities raising the costs by 10%.
Bhutan has a number of travel agents, most of them keen to cater to expats, due to better margins & complete tour packages which are built-in. I did happen to meet a great lady Kunzang Wangmo (she manages a resort in Thimphu) & her husband based out of Paro runs a travel agency Bhutan Namdruk Adventure. She gave me a very fair quote for a 4WD Car hire@17/km with minm 100kms..i.e. 1700. Considering the distances in Bhutan, typically one would cover under 100kms on an average, and this offer is very attractive to quotes of 2500-2800 quoted by Jaigaon agents for Santro/Bolero/Sumo Jeeps in my opinion.
She can also suggest/book hotels at your request in the mid-range. They can be reached at bhutannamdruk@gmail.com

Hope this helps.
"Itís not about how to achieve your dreams. Itís about how to lead your life. If you lead your life the right way, the karma will take care of itself. The dreams will come to you. "
ó Randy Pausch (The Last Lecture)
#1089 Oct 23rd, 2014, 22:38
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#1089
Thanks....very useful information for me....thanks again, Ashok.
#1090 Oct 23rd, 2014, 23:00
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#1090
Thank you ashis-da. The last line of your reply is very important point.
#1091 Oct 24th, 2014, 17:54
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#1091
Hotel KK:
Room rates Rs1350 + 350 * 2 for extra beds
Mob +975 17111416
Ph: +975 8 271122

Food in Paro

There are multiple options for food in Paro. At most places the menu card is just an indicative list of items available in the restaurant. Of the entire list, almost 50% of items will not be available. It is better to check with the waiter what all things are available. In most cases, food is cooked fresh after the order is placed, especially for items like Paratha, rotis, it starts from preparation of dough. At few places you have to give the order for exact no of roti/parathas you want as dough will be prepared only for that quantity)

Bhutanese use lot of chillies and very little salt and masala / spices in food. If you are not used to eating chillies, pl order food without chillies. It is better to adjust ones taste buds for bland (non masaledar) food while in Bhutan.

Few good restaurants in Paro:

1. Jigsel Restaurant (This is a family owned restaurant and is not on the tourists list. It is mostly visited by local youngsters. It offers very good food and the ambience is nice with friendly staff and good service. This restaurant offers limited Indian cuisines, but if you are interested in chowmein noodles, fried rice, soup, and various bhutanese dishes, then this is the place to try

2. All Seasons Restaurant (This restaurant offers good Indian food, food is good, service little slow but is still a good option to dine in Paro). We had three meals in this restaurant and most of the time it did not disappoint.

3. Takeaway Cafeteria (near the garden). This is probably the best and the cheapest option in the town offering multiple varieties (mostly snacks and fast food items). It looks like a college canteen with cramped space but don’t just go by looks- the food is very good. Tourists may not like the ambience as sitting arrangement is very cramped; go when there is no rush. It is good option especially if one wants to get the food parceled. Our favourite snack here was Cheese vegetable Momos. They are Yummm to say the least.

4. Bimal restaurant (we tried this only once for breakfast and found their food to be good. This restaurant was suggested to us by the locals. Similarly, we were also advised to try food at Phoenix Restaurant for vegetarian food. However, this restaurant was closed for couple of days when we were in Paro

On 3rd day (4th Oct) we moved from Hotel KK to Hotel Jigmelling where we had 3 rooms booked for 3 nights. The rooms are small by Bhutan standards but they were very clean with good room service. The hotel manager, Mr. Chimi is a nice and friendly guy. What I like about this hotel is their transparency while dealing with their guests. I will recommend this hotel to others for stay. Just ask the hotel manager to provide either front side or back side rooms for good view. The side rooms are dark with disturbance due to ongoing construction activity of new building next to this hotel.

We had one dinner in Hotel Jigmelling just as a courtesy while staying in their hotel. The food was not so good. I would not recommend this hotel’s restaurant for meals.

Hotel Jigmelling
Room Rate 1500 + 10% tax for standard double bedded rooms
Mob +975-17628792
Ph: +975 8 271444

After shifting our luggage to Hotel JIgmelling, we ventured out to look for a 7-seater taxi for local sightseeing. Even after trying hard and inquiring at both taxi stands, we could not find any. Most of these vehicles were pre booked for going to Thimphu for Thimphu festival. We had to finally settle for two Altos for local SS (Rs 1850 per cab).

Places covered (in the same order):
1. Ta Dzong (National Museum) and watch tower
2. Rinpung Dzong (AKA Paro Dzong)
3. Traditional village house (Farm house)
4. Kyichu Lakhang
5. Drukyel Dzong
6. Dungtse Lakhang

After returning from local sightseeing, our next job was to plan next two days in Paro (One day for Haa valley and one day for Takstang Lhakhang (Tigers Nest). We started searching for a 7-seater taxi for Haa. We enquired with few taxi drivers and the lowest quote we got was Rs6000 for a day’s excursion to Haa (That too in Maruti EECO). It was getting too cumbersome to find a 7-seater cab for our onward trip (as there were not many vehicles available). We also went to the bus stand to inquire about any local buses for Haa. We found that there was one bus which would leave Paro in the morning, but there was no clarity on our return mode of transport. Post our discussion internally, we finally decided to look for a taxi for our entire onward journey till Samdrup Jongkhar for 11 days (i.e. Paro – Haa – Paro, Paro – Thimphu, Thimphu SS, Thuimphu – Punakha – Wangdue – Gangtey – Phobjika, Phobjika – Trongsa - Bumthang, Bumthang SS, Bumthang – Mongar, MOngar – Lhuntse – Mongar, Mongar – Trashiyangtse – Trashigang, and finally from Trashigang to Samdrup Jongkhar). For entire 11 days we wanted the taxi driver to be exclusively with us.

We got few good references and taxi driver numbers. We finally got a quotation of Rs 6500 per day for 11 days (i.e. Rs73000 for our entire tour). On bargaining, he finally agreed for Rs5000 per day (he would not budge even a penny below this quote). We knew that the rate was on the higher side, but our program was too long and tightly planned to keep transport options hanging till last moment. We agreed for Rs55000 for the entire tour (and the taxi would remain exclusive to us for the entire trip, with no limit on travel distance). It was a comfortable 7-seater Bolero with a carrier for luggage.

Taxi Driver: Tshering (Ph no: +975-17617276). Tshering is a very friendly and a nice guy. He knew almost all places we discussed, even those places in the most interior regions of Central and Eastern Bhutan. I would recommend his services to others. He is in his late 40s and is into driving for almost 30 years. He not only served as our driver, but also as a guide. Even if we found his rates to be relatively in the higher side, overall we were extremely satisfied with his services

On 4th day (i.e.5th Oct) three out of six members decided to go to Tigers nest monastry. On the previous evening we had booked an alto for drop and pick up to the base. The taxi driver agreed to charge Rs 800 for drop to the base (parking lot) and reverse pick up and drop to the hotel (This was after bargaining from Rs 1000).

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View of Paro Dzong from Ta Dzong (National Museum)

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Ta Dzong (National Museum)

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Watch Tower opposite Ta Dzong (National Museum)

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Notice at Ta Dzong (National Museum)

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View from Ta Dzong (National Museum)
Last edited by mehpra; Oct 25th, 2014 at 11:26..
#1092 Oct 24th, 2014, 20:16
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#1092
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Paro Dzong

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Route Map - Paro Dzong

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Paro Dzong

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Kyichu Lakhang

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Drukyel Dzong

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Drukyel Dzong

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Dungtse Lakhang
#1093 Oct 24th, 2014, 23:29
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#1093

Hotel Booking

Hi,

I will be visiting Bhutan this December. My itinerary is like below:

Day 1: Reach Hasimara-reach Thimpu by same day
Day 2: Thimpu local Sight Seeing
Day 3: Thimpu - Punakha - Thimpu
Day 4: Thimpu to Paro. Paro sight seeing
Day 5: Tiger Nest visit
Day 6: Paro to Hasimara

My questions are:

1. Is it possible to visit Punakha as a day trip from Thimpu considering present road condition?
2. Will it be cheaper to book the hotels on spot? I have contacted Tandin, Shantideva and Yidzeen at Thimpu. Shantideva quoted 2200(inclusive breakfast) and Yidzeen quoted 1980(room only). Yet to receive quotation from Tandin. At Paro, Jigmeling quoted 1650 and 1850 for std and delux room. Should I go with these rates or book the hotels on arrival as December will be off season?
#1094 Oct 25th, 2014, 00:45
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#1094
@soumajitm

December is an off season and I would not worry too much with the hotel rooms.
Thimphu
Hotel Tandin is quoted @1170 or so...for a double room...Hotel Gasel is priced the same or may lower a bit being low season..it was currently prices @1200..their newer rooms stand out compared to Tandin.
Apply for the Punakha permit on Day 2 (ensure it is not a weekend or a local holiday)...issued within 15 minutes.
There were two buses to Punakha one in the morning and one in the afternoon..with fare priced @80. The journey typically takes 3 hrs by car. Try this option.
Paro:
Hotel Jigmeling was charging 1500 (no tax as we did not ask for the bill)...you should probably get it for 1200 in the off season.
Plan the Tiger's Nest hike keeping the weather conditions in mind. Ice & sleet make the surface very dangerous for the hike, just a heads up. I twisted my ankle on my way down, the rain's made it slippery and there was no foot hold on many occasions.

The problem with the hotels is that many travel portals are negotiating and contracting in bulk to sell of their portals...so the prices will depend on the demand/supply sitiuation.
#1095 Oct 25th, 2014, 01:04
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#1095
Quote:
Originally Posted by soumajitm View Post Hi,

I will be visiting Bhutan this December. My itinerary is like below:

Day 1: Reach Hasimara-reach Thimpu by same day
Day 2: Thimpu local Sight Seeing
Day 3: Thimpu - Punakha - Thimpu
Day 4: Thimpu to Paro. Paro sight seeing
Day 5: Tiger Nest visit
Day 6: Paro to Hasimara

My questions are:

1. Is it possible to visit Punakha as a day trip from Thimpu considering present road condition?
2. Will it be cheaper to book the hotels on spot? I have contacted Tandin, Shantideva and Yidzeen at Thimpu. Shantideva quoted 2200(inclusive breakfast) and Yidzeen quoted 1980(room only). Yet to receive quotation from Tandin. At Paro, Jigmeling quoted 1650 and 1850 for std and delux room. Should I go with these rates or book the hotels on arrival as December will be off season?
I feel you wont be doing justice to Thimphu by keeping just one day for local sight seeing, especially considering you will need some time for issuance of inner area permit for Punakha.

Thimphu - Punakha - Thimphu is very much doable in a day. But make sure you start from Thimphu by 7 AM. Presently there are two road blocks due to ongoing road construction activity on the way to Punakha and Wangdue. (Timings are shown in the attached pic)

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During December, I feel there is no need to book rooms in advance, though as rightly suggested by Mr. Ashok, it all depends on the demand supply situation on that day. If you are not too choosy about any specific hotel, then getting rooms during Dec period might not be too difficult. Worst case, you may have to pay as per listed rates for the rooms.
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