Bhutan - The Lost Shangri-La

Yes Natasha, thank you – thank you so much for another beautiful article. As Priya says informative as well as interesting. See, we are not going to change our mind that you are a pagli that’s for sure but we also admit that you know how to share an experience. Cheers my friend.

“So, any future travelers please do not worry about food.”

– but I know food is a real problem even for the conducted tour operators. But when you are telling us not to worry, well I must accept that. After all I know your food habits.

“She took us to show the rooms and while she opened the lock and stepped into the room, she continued singing “la la la, la la la.” My jaw dropped open and I started laughing, best welcome I could imagine after a long and weary journey. And I suddenly became aware of the fact that everyone around us actually seemed to be very happy. They were all very simple, very content people, constantly smiling amongst themselves.”

– just love this part. This is important. It is true that the first impression influence the rest part of the traveling. Imagine any hotel at Sikkim ……. A lovely smile at reception will convey the message that you are at the right place.

“Now women don’t sit out in the sun knitting woolens. I’ve grown up buying woolens from Bhutanese flee markets across India. There wasn’t a single handmade woolen garments shop in all of Thimphu.”

This is something obvious but honestly speaking, some changes are not always good.

And Natasha I can see a major change in your photographs – you are very careful about the composition ! great work, Pagli.

So do they then tell you where you are staying and arrange your transport and treks and everything or do you get vouchers or what?

amazing sharing of journey..big thx Natasha

If you are a foreigner paying the US$200 per person per day (which varies slightly according to the time of year and number of people in the party), you have to book with a recognised travel agent. When I went 3 years ago, I had to deposit the full payment 6 weeks in advance to the Bhutanese Government account in New York by International Bank Transfer.

When we got there, everything was arranged -- car, driver, itinerary, accommodation etc. We only had to pay extra for stuff like beers and phone calls. What I really loved was that the travel agencies book you into the best accommodation available when you are there -- so as it was off season we stayed at the best hotel in Thimpu, by far the best hotel I've ever stayed in...

The other thing I loved was that on our first night in Thimpu we were invited for dinner with the Managing Director of the tour company... she speaks perfect English and was great company.

The only drawback was that, having never before gone on a tour where you are totally looked after and always have a chaperone, after a few days I started to feel like we were under house arrest.

A bit like travelling in Russia back in the 'old days' .. except the ever-present 'tour guide' was in reality KGB

Yeah... it may have felt similar... but probably not that similar!

Btw it's also worth mentioning that around 1/3 of your $200 per day is taken by the Bhutanese government to help fund universal education and healthcare for all its citizens, and environmental protection.

No probs with that and I guess 5 days would be ample time - although for a family that's $600 US a day - quite steep...is it the same for everyone even if you are sharing accommodation and cars etc - or is there some kind of group discount?

Here is the information about charges from the Yu Druk tours website:

So rather than a group discount, there's a small group surcharge.

Oh well - I guess we'll have to put that on the list of things to do when we win the lottery (or by myself!)

As a comparison what does an Indian National pay(approximately give or take 1000rps) per diem for a Bhutanese excursion?

An Indian National, like me for example, paid
Rs. 1000 per day for car hire (max 6 people),
+ diesel in actuals (which isn't much at all),
+ Rs 800 for hotel room (double bed),
+ Rs 500 for food (that's for four people).
So a total of approximately Rs 4000 per day for a party of four people. The cost will come down if you have more members in your team. If you have your own vehicle, then the cost will come further down.

Great article, Natasha!

Thank you, Somnath, I am learning from the best!

BigZero! After such a long time! Hope you are doing well.

I miss Sudheer Poppa.

I am thinking that we non-Indians are supplying & maintaining the "H" in the Bhutanese GNH endeavour.

Natasha .... or any other Bhutan experts:

Your Bhutan write-up is pretty enticing! A great narrative ... and provides most info I need.

So, now thinking to go there in April-08 say around 10th April. Would that be good time? I mean will it be ok to get accomodation etc as it will be season perhaps ..... from your write up I gathered it might be not a problem... for Indians looking for average season rate ranging say INR 1000-2000 per day for a double room ?

As of now thinking it will be me and wife for a week. Thinking best to fly from Mumbai to Bagdogra and from there make it by Jeep by Road Via Phuntsoling (in order to enjoy route-scenery) or would it be better to fly to Thimpu via Kolkata? Or any other way??

Any other tips will be useful .... as of now only in preliminary thinking stage .... may have more questions later.

I am also thinking I will prefix or suffix a 7-10 day trek (w/out wife) in the Singalila range (Sandakphu to Phaluk etc.)

- KS