Annapurna Circuit

Swiswede

Hey all,

Are there any forums with as helpful people as there are here where I can ask about the Annapurna Circuit? Not sure if this is the place as it is IndiaMike.com

Basically, I just want to know what it will take to get into Nepal, How much it will cost (roughly) to do the trek on a tight budget, and what it will be like doing in in March, April or May.

Thanks

Stefan

Darmabum

may not allow you to cross the Thorang La pass. I headed that way from the Naudanda side in February several years ago and got stuck in Kagbeni, snow was too deep, conditions too extreme for casual trekking beyond Muktinath. Luckily I wasn't so circuit-oriented . . . I just went back the way I came. I really enjoyed the solitude of that time of year though. Not many people on the trail, spent at least a week or so seeing no other Westerners.

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Oliver Schulz

it is not impossible - if you are really fit. i crossed it in april. that is long ago as well and i had been trekking a lot before. there was hardly any snow between, slept in a shop up the pass from muktinath and reached the first bunker-like restaurant-place on the other in the early afternoon. but i would not dare to do even in good wheather conditions now without acclimatising for two or three weeks.

ananda2193

I was there in 1991 and met a Canadian who did it in March. Took him 30 day's as he was a little overweight. Said he lost 30 lbs. on it. So it's possible then, but I guess everyyear has different weather. It normaly should take 21 day's.

Darmabum

it is not impossible. Fitness is a concern, but even moreso (with fitness a given), the conditions that particular year i.e. snow-pack and current weather conditions. We all react to altitude in different ways. Having walked from Pokhara (and having been to over 4000m before) I had an idea how I'd react to altitude. I did aclimatize slowly, having been on the trail for almost three weeks before I got to Kagbeni. Many people fly-in to Jomsom then head up; and thereby not allowing time to acclimatize to altitude, which may or may not present problems. You can only start that way, pay attention to people coming over from the other side, and/or, by knowing conditions at the top. The way global warming is going, we'll all soon be doing it in shorts and tank-tops.

Swiswede

Thanks for the info everyone.

I will be going to India first and doing some trekking there and depending how that goes, I will try go to Nepal and do the circuit. I would like to do it early in the season to avoid as much of the crowds as possible. When's the high season when the crowds swell on the circuit?

Is it easy to get into Nepal from India? By rail or road? How long would it take (for example, from Delhi) and roughly how much should it cost? I am trying to see if I can afford the trip. Once in Nepal, how much does budget accomodation cost? Backpacker type stuff ...

Thanks

Stefan

Darmabum

is a popular take-off point for Nepal, especially if going by bus. Years (and years and . . .) ago I took a bus from Delhi to Kathmandu and Pokhara. It was wild and looooooong. I lived in Varanasi last year for many months and talked with many people heading to Nepal (and returning). My understanding is that it's about a day to the border, then another partial day to Kathmandu or Pokhara. Can't help with prices, sorry.

Swiswede

Thanks Darmabum,

I was thinking of going to Varanasi anyways, so that sounds like a great plan

Any idea on living costs in Nepal? Roughly, on the cheap

ananda2193

I was there in 1991 and didn't do the circuit, but spent 2 weeks doing part of it. The thing is you must have a trekking permit. In 1991 it cost a few dollars, but you had to change $10 us.a day for every day of you permit. You don't have to spend that money. It's really impossible to spend that much. You can always change it back when your done. As far as prices I paid $1 US or less a night. In Tatopani Me and a girl from London paid 25 cents US a night. 12 1/5 cent's apiece . I still have their buisness card. The place was called Kamala Lodge and Restaurant and they had some of the best food I had in Nepal. Mexican,Italian,Moussaka, Burgers,steaks,Cakes and pies and liters of Tubourg beer. Theres also Hot Springs there. We stayed almost a week there. Although it was 16 years ago, I bet you can still get a room for $1 US.
From Calcutta it took me 2 days to get to Kathmandu.
When I left Pohkara for India, I went all the way across western Nepal as the border had just opened at that time. Took a night bus from Pohkara to Nepalgange. Arrived in Nepalgange at 6 a.m. 1 hour too late for the bus going west, so had to spend 23 hours there. Next morning at 5 a.m. left for Mahendranagar. Arrived there at 8 p.m. Next morning took a shuttle to a town by the border, got my exit stamp. Walked across the border into India and eventually caught a bus to Ranikhet arriving at night. All in all a 3 day trip.

BenV

Sleeping is cheap, something like NRs 150/ 200 a day for a double-room.

Food is getting more expensive when you get further away from civilization (everything is brought in by mule-train).
You will probably need something like NRs 120/150 for breakfast (pancake Rs60, tea Rs25, omelette Rs60, muesli 100), NRs 100/ 150 for lunch (chowmein/ noodles Rs150 or omelette), NRs 200 for dinner (dal bhat NRs 150, fried potatoes/ rosti NRs 150, pizza NRs 175). Do not know about non-veg meals, though. I can imagine you feel like taking a soup (Rs70) or dessert (Rs60 pancake). Multiply these prices by 1.5 or so when you get closer to the pass..

A bottle of beer (650ml) will cost you more, something like Rs 200 to even 300 depending on where you are. Not sure about local stuff like raksi.
You will need to buy one or two bottles of water a day (although there will be plenty of teahouses along the way). Prices will go up fast, maybe even up to NRs 80 a bottle!

If you are traveling economic class you can get by with as little as $10 a day, if you want some luxury $15 or more..
Most people require something like 20 days to do the circuit.

You will also need a permit at NRs 2000,- (close to $30) and NRs 100 a day per person for the Maoists (I am not sure whether they fulfilled their promise and stopped charging tourists). If you take a guide (which is not obligatory btw) and you are a good negotiator, you will pay $10 a day.

Do not arrange your trek in Kathmandu, but do so in Pokhara! It is much cheaper and the local community then picks the fruits. And do not take an full package with food et cetera -- that is much more expensive!

One remark: the Annapurna hike apparently is not really varied so perhaps you might consider doing a shorter hike (e.g. Poon-hill) which shows you about the same in landscape and villages in less time (3 - 5 days). Some trekkers like the somewhat less spectacular but also less touristy Langtang better.

Hope this helps..

Swiswede

So once I am there and have my permit etc. I could get by quite comfortably with about 1000 NRs a day if I go on my own. I will eat only local vegetarian food and sleep as cheaply as possible. I probably wont be drinking beers and such either. Would these prices be roughly the same throughout Nepal, ie. before I get onto the circuit.

And do I need to organise anything before I go? Like visa/permits etc.. or can I just go and get everything on the way? This really sounds like a great experience. I think I will start in India and do a small trek or 2 there and then head on to Nepal to do the Annapurna circuit.

Thanks for all the info. Anything else you think I might need to know is more than welcome

BenV

No, the prices for eating & sleeping within the Annapurna reserve are fixed and relatively cheap. A decent room in a clean lodge in Pokhara will cost somewhere between 350 and 700 (if you are in for a negotiation). I recommend Noble Inn or Nanohana (view from top-floor, room 12 or 11?), both crisp clean and good value for money (and after a trek you will be craving for a good warm shower and clean sheets, I tell you!!). Nanohana has a great rooftop-view early in the morning!
Food is only a little bit more expensive in Pokhara than is up in the mountains.
You can arrange permit (& guide) a day in advance, we arranged our trek via Kumar of Noble Inn.

Kathmandu is somewhat more expensive, but the city is awesome, especially in the evening. Ah, for you, an adventurer: hire a bike there and cycle around (be sure to take the main roads) -- it is one of the best kiddyrides you will ever experience!
BTW: do _not_ go to Kathmandu Garden House, one of the staff members (Prem) will try to trick you into something..

<edit> You will need a visum for Nepal, and if you come in by airplane, there is a loooong queue, so I recommend you to get one in SA!
P.S. I did some nice small treks in SA a couple of years ago. Beautiful country! :-)

Swiswede

BenV: Thanks for the reply. I do guess that after the trek I will want to stay in a nice clean room for a little while but are there also more budget options available? Unfortunately, I am travelling on the rent I am getting from my house (plus a little I have saved up) so I don't have all that much budgeted for each day.

Were did you trek in SA? There are some beautiful ranges. Funnily enough, I just visited the Drakensberg for the first time and I was blown away. I will definitely got trekking there once I return glad you enjoyed it here.

Anyone know much about the trek around Mt. Kailash? I'm guessing that is no tea-house trek ... I have been dreaming about it for years but don't know if I am experienced enough to do it. Or have the cash to do it either

BenV

The $5 - $10 I am talking about is ensuite double-room. I am quite sure you will find cheaper accommodation but you will get what you pay for. Be sure to have a buffer in case things are slightly more expensive than you expect!

We did some trails in the Garden Route and Drakensberg.
Yes, Drakensberg is really beautiful (but totally different from Himalaya of course). Regretfully it was clouded when we were there..
Garden Route was awesome. For an hour or so we did spot whales (showers and tails) from the shore while walking

Swiswede

Hey BenV: I do have a bit of a buffer. My rent will give me just over 1000 NRs a day and then I also have a bit of saved cash, which I can access as I need it. So I should be good