| Chai and Chat - May we talk here? Talk about anything about India with other Members of the forum. Formerly the Yak Yak Yak forum. |
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#76 |
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Account Closed by User's Request
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: the Netherlands
Posts: 6,009
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Great stuff Ruben I'm right there with you, Binsar is just so totally peaceful it is life changing! How are the views right now, for me it was a one time view of Nanda Devi that moved me to tears I only saw the mountain ranges for a 1 1/2 hours and it was just staggering.
Little you have experienced in life prepares you for an 7000 meter plus mountain emerginging out of the cloud cover, it was truly awesome, a great moment in my india travels! Ruben I wish you all the best and enjoy your time in the Himalaya, remember getting back onto the plains is another culturre shock after an extended time in the mountains. It's great, almost like arriving in India again as all the warmth, familiar smells and sounds reappear and the frenetic life of the plains Indians once more sweeps you off your feet. It just keeps on getting better! Enjoy my friend! |
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#77 |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Florida, USA
Posts: 21
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Ruben, wonderful piece again. Thanks for your insight and personal musing. It makes for a very nice read. Appreciate the part about the train trip as I will be taking my first trip on an overnight to Varanasi. Good luck with the rest of your trip and look forward to reading your next post when you return.
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#78 |
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10 year Visa okee dokee
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Swannanoa NC usa
Posts: 2,037
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I'm thoroughly enjoying your journey. Thanks and don't stop writing! You are definitely "hooked" on India and I predict this won't be your only trip there!
I'm not psychic, it's just what happened to me and lot's of IMers. |
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#79 |
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This is just a cameo appearance
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Chennai, India
Posts: 36,202
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Rubens, as you may know I've spent quite a lot of time in the past couple of years in Southern India and will soon be living there. Even though every one assures me that Diverse India is still more the-same than it is different, the North still feels like a different country to me and I have much the same kind of feelings about visiting it as you did about coming to India!
But I am day-by-day warming to the idea of taking a look at those Himalyas and some of those Northern places -- and you writing like this has a lot to do with it! You really make me want to see what you are seeing and experience what you are experienceing. Cyberhippie --- you're lending a hand too ![]() ![]() |
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#80 |
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A Trekker
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: INDIA
Posts: 357
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Enjoying your every post.
Your posts are like live telecast of the "experiece of a foreigner in and about India". Keep writing. Happy Journey
__________________
TREKorDIE: " BECAUSE IT IS THERE ! ! ! " |
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#81 |
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Born Epicure
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: India
Posts: 322
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A day in Hills
Cyber Hippie where did you stay in Binsar? My experience in hills say that one can do well by avoiding private enterprises as the govt tourism boards are in business since ice ages and have advantage of best view locations. Even Binsar is no exception, I stayed in forest guest house about 1.5 km from the Zero point. But to get the permission to stay in most of forest guest houses or Dak Bungalows is a hassle you don’t want to go through every time.
Nick, at the cost of sounding bias I can tell you that there is no other place in Asia offering you such a bouquet of sensory delight as Himalaya does. They are so soothing and embrace you gently in folds that you never want to leave, well as long as you have broadband connection ![]() I often use to go to a place in Himachal Pradesh till some years ago. A money order and telegram will inform Dukhi Ram my arrival date and money to buy provisions. Appointed day I get down from the bus and meet my old friend from another world, it took him some time to not insist on carrying my luggage but he will be at that bus stop on no-where road from morning till whatever time bus comes, waiting for his young friend from plains. There on we wait for another local bus or shared taxi to take us into interiors and finally to get down on a kilometre walk to the forest guest house, probably the smallest one I have seen in hills. That also explain why not many go there, prospect of a 1 km walk seems too much for usual marry makers. Not even govt officials on French leave with their girl friends come there. So Dukhi Ram and I will preside over the ‘estate’ unhindered from any powers or loons that be. After a brief handing and taking over and chking the lists of provisions Dukhi and I will fall into a rhythm of life in sing song manner. A typical day will start with Dukhi Ram coughing outside my room, indicating me to get up and go for morning walk, for which I leave when its still dark enough and come back when sun just about came out. While the mist still hangs about lightly in the crisp air, Dukhi brew a potent tea mix of sugary syrup with ginger and opium pods by a jug full that we empty in our own sweet time slurping and blowing in hot glass holding between palms for warmth. Then Dukhi will mutter something about breakfast and get going to make delicious golden deep fried parathas in every imaginable combination. Yet to have anyone making onion and cauliflower paratha as good as Dukhi Ram and his insistent over feeding. Breakfast over if it is warm sunny Kist outside I will saunter off for a walk on kuccha road. You can still discern the day breaking into many hues in sky, leafy oak dripping last droplets of mist gathered on them, some distance away a perennial tributary of a great river system is leaping down in hurry and drifts of wind will decide what you hear of her, a terrific roar or a subdued prattle, the rock face have started to get a bit warm and same wind drift coming from valley or rock side will get you swinging between alternate hot and cold seesaw. You wish if you were old enough in hills to look up at sky and predict weather as you enter another band on road and it feels like walking in cold tunnel, dense jungle not letting any sun in making you hurry back to the safety of sun and rest house. Back home time for bath or dry clean depending on weather, Dukhi Ram’s mood and availability of firewood strictly rationed by him, for he won’t lope off any fresh wood and drift wood or fallen ones are hard to come by. Bath and ablutions over Dukhi will insist to feed huge parathas with butter and some more hot opium tea to fight off cold. Breakfast over Dukhi will attack pots and pan and am free to dive into some book or day dream about serious issues of life or just mind screw myself. Lunch will materialise before me sharp 12 with a usual flight between Dukhi and I where he insist to serve hot roties and I tell him to have his lunch along with me. Dukhi likes to doze off after lunch and I go for a walk again if it’s sunny and take a longish walk this time, armed with a book. If the clouds are wispy and high in sky you can be sure of clear weather near the brook. From there you can gaze at the not so distant high range with fresh snow from last night and lammergeier soaring high on thermals with along with choughs. Down here in wooded valley deep throated hill crows scrounging for food in company of black face Langoors. A family of languor with sinewy, strong beautiful limbs quietly enjoy their day out with babies prancing around. You can’t see some birds around unless you sit very quietly then you may see a jungle fowl or a singing babbler or a pheasant with metallic iridescent blue nape. On way back to lodge you may startle a fox and there might be a big cat around already seen you and slinked away. Back home 3 o clock is tea time again and I insist to have just some pure Darjeeling, while Dukhi have a fresh bout with ginger tea. Soon the shadows will start to lengthen and breeze from valley will pick up swirling early mist. Dukhi and I peel some potato for curry and cucumber for salad for the dinner at 7.30 but not before there is some drinking. By 6 Dukhi will open the in-house bar for both of us and bar will close by 7 as either of us is not heavy on bottle. From bar opening till dinner is served Dukhi and I catch up with Radio in between catching up on world news and local politics, troubled times of world, families, career, savings, money and other issues so typical of Indian household. Dukhi will always have some new tales to tell of his boyhood in hills and last days of British Raj and I offering him my views in contrast about how the world is going and in agreement we dish the world and people from plains, gen-x, television and Margaret Thatcher before happily finishing off the rum tote. Outside stars are already out and Milky Way spanning across east to west separating great bear and Orion, in the valley not to be outdone by shiny stars a ceaseless drone is whipped up to frenzy by crickets and cicadas. Its time to sleep in a while. Its been two days and third day Dukhi will have to go half day ‘leave’ and get some mutton and eggs for home and he remind me not to go very far for the walk as the big cat from jungle is always looking for opportunity to break into kitchen. Dinner over I can listen to radio or read by lamp for a while and latest by 9.00 am off to sleep to wake up at 5 next morning and live another day in paradise. Maybe it will be cloudy tomorrow and not much walking possible but hey there is always some opium tea or rum by fireside and a warm home to stay in. I never went back after Dukhi retired from forest services; he went home, a thoughtful wizened man and an excellent company full of native wisdom and genuine warmth to offer I always miss Dukhi Ram who in spite of his name always proved just the opposite to others. We were in touch till the time his youngest son was not employed and his grandsons were growing fast, he was a worried man but in end it all went well. Dukhi passed away sometime back and I am sure he died a happy man. Sad realization that humans parish and pass away but the sound, sights and smell of Himalayas remain just as they were when I, first time ever took a stroll on the road winding up to the Peterhoff House on summer hill. |
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#82 |
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 55
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Cyberhippie, Hippie at Heart and Rubes,
This stuff is great. It's exactly the sort of thing that has me wanting to go back soooooooo bad. Rube, the post from earlier saying you'll be back is right on target. You WILL be back, I am certain. Cyberhippie, I love northern India. Granted, I haven't been south yet but we're talking about that already too. Northern India has my heart and soul. People keep telling me, "Wait 'til you see the southern part." I can't imagine it taking my heart the way the north has. If it does, I'll eat my words here. ![]() Keep up the writing guys ... this is wonderful candy for me. Selfish of me to ask, I know, but pleaaaaaaaaaaaaase ![]() |
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#83 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: England
Posts: 459
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Hippie at Heart ..... you had me completely lost in another world there ..... simply wonderful, thank you.
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#84 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: New Delhi
Posts: 105
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Loved the read Rubensb & Hippie at Heart!
(p.s. What does Dhuki Ram's name mean?) |
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#85 | |
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A Trekker
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: INDIA
Posts: 357
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Hippie at Heart,
will you please give me the direction to THE PARADISE? I'm really sorry for your friend Dukhi Ram. would you mind to give the key of paradise. Quote:
Ram = Lord Rama/ a person / Very common name of a man in India therefore, Dukhi Ram = The sad guy |
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#86 |
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Born Epicure
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: India
Posts: 322
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Judi, you are most welcome. Even i wish that idea of life sometime dont have to be so dynamic and ever changing, but then nothing is static either
Anna, 'The Sad One' is most approx translation for Dukhi's name.. very common old school name, not in vouge anymore, those days they use to name kids on much about their appearence, something like you'd hear in wild west, 'ol yellow, shorty, browny etc. ToD, thats western HP, right turn from theog, recent rush of development has usurped the place, i dont go there anymore. |
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#87 | |
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Yangon, MYANMAR
Posts: 4,126
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Quote:
I share your feelings on the Himalayas totally. Thanks once again !
__________________
Whoever said money can't buy happiness didn't know where to shop ! |
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#88 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 199
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Thank you all for these posts, I am so enjoying them and I can't wait to get there.... 20 working days to go
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#89 |
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Account closed on user's request
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Thank you, thank you, thankyou! Again rubensb, you've given me fantastic reading with my early morning coffee! Safe home!
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#90 |
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Born Epicure
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: India
Posts: 322
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Thanks Shimla, that referral comparative with Ruskin was very humbling and I scarcely deserve mention with that great man and writer. It’s just my fondness for Himalaya and life style therein which keeps me as engrossed. Maybe Himalaya offers one a chance to contemplate life and how more simpler it could have been or maybe am just old fashioned to muse over a slower paced life whereas rest of the world is zooming ahead jostling, rushing, stepping over each other, shovelling and generally regressing into a mess of wants and frustrations. For me Shimla is still ‘simla’, Annadale is Sunday picnic ground and not rubber littered open sky boudoir, Hindoostan Tibet road still as perilous as it was in 20s minus the diesel fume spewing trucks. I refuse to notice the mortar and brick flats built rows upon rows in Broughrust because a walk on that road always take me to the valley of sirmaur villages with simple wood homes. The romantic in me refuse to die even in face of …… everything present.
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