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Decisions, decisions...


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Old Nov 9th, 2002, 21:18   #1
sayswho
 
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Decisions, decisions...

Heading out to Rajasthan for two and a bit weeks over Xmas and New Year....want to make sure we don't kill ourselves with an over ambitious agenda...we know we definitely want to go to

Delhi (well, we arrive there)
Jaisalmer
Ranthambor
Agra (and possibly Bharatpur bird sanctuary)

The big question is...should we visit one of Udaipur, Jodhpur, Jaipur or Pushkar? And if so...which is best...?

Many thanks

Simon
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Old Nov 9th, 2002, 23:45   #2
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Simon,

You can visit all these cities if you are planning a visit of more than two weeks!
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Old Nov 9th, 2002, 23:53   #3
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My own feelings? Jaipur and Udaipur are both wonderful, skip Jodhpur (great fort, but...), and I found Pushkar hoaky, disappointing, full of tourists and touts selling religion, nothing spiritual about it for the tourist. Udaipur would be the most different place from Jaisalmeer.

The bird sanctuary near Bharatpur (Keoladeo Ghana) is one of the all-time highlights of my travels. The guides are superb (hire a bicycle rickshaw guide) and the sanctuary is packed with birds. Go twice, morning, then evening, 3 hours each, or more if you are a real bird lover.
I saw Siberian cranes (very rare), a savannah eagle (very rare) eating an ibis, a mongoose raiding a parakeet nest, two huge pythons, curlews and herons and spoonbills and ibises and cranes and water swallows, parrots, more storks than in the rest of my life together, waterhens that eat out of your hand. The place is clean and peaceful, lovely vegetation, sunset magnificent. You can get off the rickshaw and walk with the guide. The place is not too big.

Ranthambor is also very worth while, if crowded, and I was lucky to see a live tiger (he stared right at a chubby Brazilian on the truck next to me, and she was terrified!) and a pack of vultures eating the remnants of a tiger kill (a nilgai), as well as spotted deer, sambar, and more birds. You can go in a tonka (open truck) along with a dozen tourists. The problem can be that the vehicles make noise and scare away the wildlife, so you need a sensitive driver and guide.

If you're going to Bharatpur and Agra, don't miss Fatehpur Sikri between the two of them. One of the highlights in India for me, Akbar's first attempt at a city in India, where he built a palace for his Christian wife and one for his Hindu wife, neither one of whom was forced to convert! After I found the Taj Mahal disappointing and the extraordinary Red Fort in Agra surrounded by the most aggressive and obnoxious touts anywhere in India, this was an oasis of beauty and peace.

Gosh, I'm getting excited...
But this time I'm going to Kerala and Tamil Nadu in January.

Have a great trip, Simon.
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Old Nov 11th, 2002, 05:58   #4
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Smile

Thanks very much for your help...really useful.

Started to get me even more excited now..

S
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