Vanakkam from Valparai

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Your husband is bad. He put you in the picture on one side of the road, with sign saying “Lion Tailed Monkey Crossing” Go Slow.


Did you realise you got tricked by your husband-ji ? ... ...

Thanks Julia


RWe-Jeeee
My tricky hubby was just Monkeying Around!!!




The Show Goes On ...


Today’s excursion was to the Nirar Dam, or more correctly to the Lower Nirar Dam which we had not seen earlier.

Back on the good old bus, in the picture window seats right in front.


The bus to Lower Nirar goes first to Cinchona, where the state government owned TANTEA has its estates.

We remembered Cinchona well as we had walked back there from Chinna Kallar which we visited last year.

We had seen elephants from the bus to Cinchona then. No such luck now, though we overheard passengers on the bus discussing how an elephant herd had destroyed two houses near Cinchona the previous night. The small Upper Nirar Dam or Nirar Weir is close to Chinna Kallar.


From Cinchona, the bus back tracked to take the fork going downhill to the Dam. As we were alighting, the driver kindly told us he would be going ahead to the Nirar colony, and would pick us up in approximately 25 minutes, on his return. The next bus after that would be 3 hours later. We thanked him but our intention was to spend the better part of the day here, walking around the lake. Fat chance as we were soon to find out!

Here is the picture postcard perfect Nirar Lake reflecting the bright blue sky. Taken from the dam, against the light. Late afternoon is perhaps a better time for photography. The Grass Hills are in the background. Chinna Kallar is at the base of the Grass Hills on this side. The Chinnakallar River originates in the Grass Hills, becomes the Lawson Falls at Chinakkallar, feeding the Nirar Weir, and empties at Lower Nirar.




The public is allowed to walk across the dam here, with no restrictions on photography, unlike in most other dams in India.

Most of the water from here goes through an underground tunnel to the Upper Sholayar Dam and then on to the Idamalayar or Lower Sholayar reservoir in Kerala. The small downstream release is to maintain the minimum water level in the natural watercourse, and for irrigation.




One more photo taken from a shady spot, I was trying to cut the glare from that bright sunshine. The blue water could have done with a touch of 'brightness'.


We followed a pathway on the side just below the staff quarters, that seemed to skirt the lake shore. Hardly had we gone ahead than a booming voice requested us to come back. It was prohibited to enter that area, he said very apologetically. Ohhh…..

That put paid to our plans and we hopped on to the bus on its return trip. We considered walking to Chinnakallar from Cinchona but the bus driver strongly advised against it due to the very real presence of elephants. So, back to Valparai it was.

A podium had been set up on one side of the main road, and a political meeting was going on as we walked back to our room from the bus stand. Someone was ranting at full volume about the Mullaperiyar issue.

The peaceful Not-Kolaveri citizens of Valparai politely passed by without giving him a second glance. It was obviously not any of the main political parties or else they would have roped in the rent a crowd hordes. We too scurried past quickly to avoid the deafening loudspeaker.

After a brief rest, we set off again towards Parry Agro. We would wait for the bisons who were supposed to arrive at 5pm.

But what was going on at Puthuthottam in the meantime?



Monkey patiently waiting his turn at the common loo!



Awww… Little binky monkey is thirsty



Peek A Boo



The Puthuthottam gang decided to accompany us on our walk.




See how easily they could get run over.





The boys on this motorcycle can’t believe their luck; well neither could we!


Evening strollers at Valparai



Mummy and Baby make it safely across to the other side


And park themselves safely in the crook of a tree branch with Baby merrily chomping away


“Lion” tails


Looks like a brinjal which he “took” from the workers garden.



Isn’t he sweetest most darling little baby monkey ever?



It’s Just The Two Of Us


Until Daddy Joins In



Good ole Dharmaraj is on the job, following his monkeys


And here’s another Mummy and Baby by the roadside


Him too



This was just incredible. We shall be forever grateful for this divine experience.

I apologise for the monkey picture overdose, those who have been bombarded enough may please scroll through quickly …..



At last, the Parry Agro estate


I love those squiggly pathways


And who pray, might that be?


I knew you came looking for me, says friendly Mr Bison and promptly disappeared into the forest


We hung around till past 5pm. No more bisons appeared so we headed back to Woodbriars Estate for the sunset.

Large wildflower trumpets of the poisonous Datura family


Evening not in Paris, but at Woodbriars


Valparai town, seen from Woodbriars Stanmore estate


Going, Going, and Almost Gone With The Wind – The setting sun at Woodbriars estate




Till later, alligator … as my Monkey buddies would say ……

I am not able to check the link . I am getting a message 'Unable to access the network' when I click on that!

The monkeys are all good looking, so atleast I don't consider them an overdose ! But that Bison, is too good! I believe this bison is moving in the tea estate? Don't they eat the fresh tea leaves? Or do they prefer coffee, what a PJ! But seriously, don't they destroy the tea plantation if they move around so freely?

Naveena, the link is
http://blog.travelpod.com/travel-blo...9191/tpod.html

Its working now, maybe there was a server problem when you tried. Just to show Chinnakallar for those who are interested as we didnt go this time, by the way that place is LEEEECH infested, those lovely ferns are not so lovely to walk through as they appear to be! I know you LOVE leeches so Im telling you!

That bison was in the forest opposite the tea estate at the time. No, surprisingly the bisons do not destroy the tea, they walk through the tea pathways and graze in the natural marshy area which all tea estates maintain for their own water table. I also saw them eating grass growing between the tea bushes.

Many more bisons to come later.

PS: They like coffee estates too, apparently!

Happy Pongal - Bihu – Bhogi – Lohri - Uttarayana and Makara Sankranti to all

It is celebrated over much of India in different ways; as a harvest and thanksgiving festival, the period when the sun commences its journey northward, and the peak season for kite flying.

In Tamil Nadu and in Valparai for sure, it will be celebrated over four days - Bogi, Pongal, Mattu Pongal and Kannum Pongal
------------------------------------------------



Today’s was an impromptu excursion to Uralikal, a Tata Tea estate by the shores of the blue Sholayar Lake.

We hopped on to the bus for the Upper Sholayar Dam with every intention of going all the way up to the dam, but the allure of the blue lake – about 9km before the dam – was too much to resist. We had seen the dam last year, nothing so great about it.



The beautiful blue Sholayar Lake

We walked into a tea estate which seemed to give access to the lake shore.




A curious elderly gentleman after learning we had come all the way from Bombay, happily pointed out the way to the shore. About 500m along the way, he called out to us. He had cut through a short cut in the tea bushes to make sure we were going in the right direction and kindly showed us an easy way to get to a pretty island in the lake from where we would get the best view, he said.

A thin sand bank led to the island


That’s us going to and around the island



The view from the island

The Sholayar Dam is in the far distance

More islands or rather, islets


Our new friend was waiting for us when we came off the island. Turns out he was a retired bus conductor who now spent his time in Bible study and composing devotional songs. His wife and son worked on the estate. Nice man. He did not want his photo to be taken and we respected his wish, bidding him goodbye.

Cormorants and egrets on the lakeshore


Last view of the Sholayar lake as we continued on our way to Varatu Parai



The road to Varatu Parai, about 4km away from where we would catch the bus





It was very scenic with colourful forests, green tea and mountains in the distance




Varatu Parai is a rainforest restoration area funded by Tata Estates and executed through the Nature Conservation Foundation, the same NGO that employs Monkey Watchers Joseph and Dharmaraj


It is also an Elephant Prone Area! Though sadly, we saw none.



While waiting at the bus stop at Varatu Parai, I got into conversation with a lady and her young son. She was an estate worker at the Velonie Coffee estate here. This is hornbill country. I told her we had seen hornbills here last year and would return in a day or too to try our luck again.

She said that hornbills perched in the tree above her house and woke her up each day with “bhayangara shaddam” - frightening noise. How fortunate! Her young son was dressed in the typical black Ayappan robes, he hoped to go on the Sabarimalai pilgrimage with some other men from the estate, they would hire a truck but were worried about the Mullaperiyar problem as rumours were rife about Tamil pilgrims being assaulted in Kerala. What about his school, would he be given leave for this pilgrimage I asked. She hoped so, otherwise he would have to bunk a few days. Her bus to Rottikadai came and we said goodbye. Ours trundled along soon enough and back to Valparai it was. I wonder if that boy made it to Sabari.

In the afternoon, it was back to our now regular beat – walk to Parry Agro.

Saw this baby sambar deer just off the short cut path in the forest at the PWD area, very close to where we were staying



Winding road and a small waterfall past Puthuthottam. No LTM’s here today


We saw these guys instead!

Indian Gaur a.k.a. Bos Gaurus a.k.a. Friendly Bisons


He’s licking his lips. The grass here must be “greener” than on the other side in the tea estates!


Parry Agro Estate







And our cutie Malabar Giant Squirrel seen on the walk back


Seen in perspective


Ciao till tomorrow, after my Pongal lunch with the parents that is, God knows how I will get there on time with the roads all blocked till 1pm for the Mumbai Marathon ….

My beloved hubby is out on a work trip, he’s missing his Lohri cum Pongal feast!

Pongal O Pongal here we come .......

snonymous,

Blame on my poor vocabulary , I abjectly failed to describe this thread with a single superlative. Many word crisscrossed my mind but none of them reached the height of your writing.

While I went through your pics , I felt , you don’t need a pen when you can capture such out-of-world photographs. When I went through your writing , I felt it couldn't be described in a better way. A complete TL - cann't be defined better than this.

I was aware of your photography ability , but wasn't aware that these beautiful pics can be captured in a P&S. Hats-off to you.

Many thanks Mithun for your appreciation.

Continuing chapters:


Initially we considered doing a day return trip to see the Athirapally falls near Chalakudy in Kerala. The first bus from Valparai to Chalakudy leaves at 0730hrs which would have been ideal ….. except for the Mullaperiyar problem. The bus driver’s union had directed them not to ply beyond the border at the Sholayar dam. We noticed private buses from Kerala plying between Chalakudy and Valparai but did not want to take the chance of getting stuck in some situation.

The four boys from Chennai whom we met at the Grass Hills, had also said they would not dare take their TN registered vehicle across the border to Kerala right now.

So much Kolaveri [La] Di-Da !!! I hope they solve their issues in a peaceful manner. Athirapally could wait for another time.

We hopped on the bus to Old Valparai some 6km away, from where we commenced the easy downhill walk to Varatu Parai. Looking for hornbills naturally, as this was the place we had seen them last year.

This walk is very scenic with dense forest on one side of the road, and cliff’s edge on the other.


Today, there was mist and overcast skies, so the pretty views we got from the cliff’s edge last year were missing.

Misty road to Varatu Parai. The same road goes all the way to the Upper Sholayar Dam


Last year’s view from the road:


This year’s view

A hint of blue sky appearing as the mist slowly lifted


A man on a scooter stopped by to caution us about venturing into a path below that led into the forest. He had seen us [!!] on our daily rounds of Valparai and thought he should let us know that an elephant had been seen there early this morning. Well, there was no such luck, we never saw elephants at all throughout this stay.


New Bamboo grass, much loved by elephants


Along with exotic ferns of the wet evergreen forest


And an assortment of pretty wildflowers


Giant Begonia


Rhynchoglossum notonianum


Tiny unidentified balsam

And many more ..

Parts of the forest at Old Valparai and Varatu Parai have been restored by Tata Estates who also maintain a rainforest species nursery at Velonie.


Suddenly we heard a loudish noise of something falling from a tree. It was a seed spat out by a Great Hornbill, our first sighting of this trip!

It was literally a right royal Pain In The Neck trying to see him, high up on the tallest possible tree in the area. In the process of straining to see him, we missed out on a unique photo-op to capture that Hornbill in flight when he flew to another tree to join his mate. Never mind, at least we saw that magnificent bird in flight with its extraordinarily loud Whoosh Whoosh Whoosh sound.

Now for the “bombardment” of Great Indian Hornbills – Great Pied Hornbill – Buceros bicornis.

I rued not having bought that 35x zoom camera I was eyeing a couple of months earlier …… These are with 26x max optical zoom, not of optimal image quality but the best in the circumstances.



This particular picture came out really dark, almost black. I had to “shed some light” on the subject to the best of my ability. Any suggestions on how to brighten the foreground in a better way will be most appreciated.


The loving couple's “Backside view”

Here are some more Hornbill photos from last year’s trip when they obligingly posed in a shorter tree





While we were all excited about our Hornbills, this poor little Nilgiri Langur and Giant Squirrel were crying out for some attention. What about us, we love you too, they said …..




That scooter man was right about the elephant being around. This is the closest we got to seeing one … A really ‘crappy’ sighting!


Here is Varatu Parai with its own little temple



The Tata Coffee Estate at Velonie fringed by forests



Coffee nursery

Last year we had chatted with these coffee ladies. Today surprisingly, there was not a worker in sight.


Forest stream flowing through the estate


Deep blue Commelina wildflower peeping through the ground


The estate is surrounded by wilderness


So we should not have been surprised to see him! Totally unexpected sighting of a troop of Lion Tailed Macaques

He said his cousins back at Puthuthottam had told him especially to say hello to us!


This patch of forest was teeming with birds, unfortunately flitting about too fast and too far away for any half decent photos. Again, I repented not buying that 35x or at least the 30x zoom camera.

This place is a birdwatchers delight. It is also leech infested ….. This is where I got bit by a leech, though above where I had applied my tobacco-oil potion. It does work but only where it has been applied!

Some woodpeckers and a racket tailed drongo


Fuzzy pictures but memories, nonetheless


That is us on the path through the estate


Elephant and some other dung on the same path, along with these violet asteracea wildflowers growing in gay profusion:




Another patch of wilderness


And there was Mr Hornbill again! Could not believe our luck at the second sighting. This time too, in our desperate effort to see him, we missed out a golden opportunity to photograph a Great Hornbill in flight as he flew to a nearby tree to join his mate. Nothing can erase the memory and we are grateful for being able to witness such a sight.




Tall trees, home to several species of birds, line the paths through the coffee estate


Coffee beans drying


I doubt it is Arabica, probably something meant for instant. Even the stall at the estate bus stand did not serve real coffee. Tata’s premium coffee estates are in Coorg. It is near impossible to get a decent cup of coffee in Valparai despite the presence of coffee plantations. Ubiquitous Sunrise and Bru are served at the bakeries and messes in town. It is much better to stick to tea here.

A pretty waterfall could be seen from the coffee drying area


This time, we did not take the shortcut across the stream to the main road. These Sapta Kannigaigal Gods are by that stream – pic from last year


We could not find our way back to the main road from the path we were on and there was no one to ask. This kind worker lady came by shortly and took us down a short cut through the coffee bushes.



In the evening, it was back to our usual round of the Woodbriar’s Stanmore Estate. This is not to be confused with the Stanmore Bungalow which is at Korangumudi near the Stanmore Estate General Hospital.

The view from our room in the gentle evening light. That is the Nadumalai Estate, a part of the Peria Karamalai or PeeKay Group.


A colourful bus below the Forest Office on our shortcut path


That is the shadow of Uncle taking Aunty’s pic at Woodbriars.


The Grass Hills seen from Woodbriar’s Stanmore Estate, towering over Valparai. The dense Puthuthottam forest is in the foreground. It is an important wildlife corridor and home to our LTM, Bison and Squirrel friends.


White Tree Daisies fringe the forest corridor at Woodbriars



“Tea Views” at the estate:




Sunset at Woodbriars.





More to come ..........

I feel like rushing to this place immediately! Real good photos of hornbills!! Extremely good place to spend some peaceful time!

26x zoom is excellent! I was wondering how you were getting those photos of those birds & giant squirrels so clearly !! My Sony cybershot was 4x and poor thing used puff & pant as I zoomed in on birds at Satara, SGNP or even during Badami trip !

I am yet to go through the text section. The photos are superb, to say the least. Some of them are potent photo of the month, I would say.

Dont forget to take your Anti Leech repellent with you!

I thought your HX100V has a 30X optical zoom on it. That would have captured those hornbills much better than my 26x. I hardly use the full 26x, the images do not come out good at full zoom. It is handy for birds and far off objects, no doubt.

Thanks for your very kind and perhaps undeserved praise Biman.

You should be writing reports to accompany all your excellent photos of historical sites. Or at least do it as a photolog!

Snonymous, another great report as usual with excellent narration and some brilliant snaps!! Not sure how I missed this earlier.

Do you have any idea how much time to take to reach Valparai from Kochi and is this route currently disturbed by Mullaperiyar issue?

Biman, I support snonymous here, it would be a visual treat to see those reports with fabulous snaps from you!!

Thanks Kshil.

You are busy planning your next trip - to the NE!!! And helping others plan their Karnataka vacation, and Ladakh ...

You could also consider a long trip to Tamil Nadu - another state that has it all except for snow. Though Im sure you must have been there before?

Well according to the Google map, which I learnt how to use from you - thanks; it says 2hrs 16min from Cochin Airport - without stops of course. But knowing you, Im sure you would want to take in Athirapally Falls of Raavan fame as well, besides there are the Vazachal Falls and dense elephant filled forests en route, so in that case you could factor in a full day.

I doubt there will be any problems on this route due to Mullaperiyar, it is so far away from there, but you never know when politicians could stir up things. Best to check with locals around the time of travel.





Posting further chapters later today, time permitting...

The Nadumalai tea estate right outside our house, is a part of the huge PeeKay Group of Peria Karamalai Estates [the well known Valparai Balaji temple is within their property]. It looked so scenic from our room that we decided to walk through one morning.

Today was overcast, perfect weather for walking though the clouds soon parted to reveal intensely sunny skies. Even in winter when it is cool, that sun can feel uncomfortably warm as the day progresses.

That’s us as we embarked upon the walk. Hubby dearest is standing on the top of a very steep flight of steps going down the cliff. We took the path into the estate from the bridge. On the way back we took a much shorter cut through the estate


Nadumalai Estate signboard


Gushing rapids of the Nadumalar River by the bridge. We took the path on the left into the estate


The Nadumalar River runs through the back of Valparai town, as seen here:

It is scenic with a small waterfall but bear in mind that all the sewage from those houses empties into the river so personally, I would not dare attempt a dip into that river downstream.

Maybe one should not think of all these inconvenient little facts when enjoying the scenery but what to do … I am like that only!


This chubby fellow said Hi There! or rather Vanakkam!

Spotted Dove [ID courtesy Calcuttan – thanks]

Saw this pretty scene from afar, that is where we were headed further downhill in the estate


Pathways through the tea estates make for easy walking with great scenery. Especially good for those of us who are “Walkers” rather than “Trekkers”


Cloud in the valley below the Grass Hills on one side


And a closer view of the place we saw daily from our room


Here is that little waterfall, it actually looked prettier from above


The waterfall was caused by a small bund in this river


We walked further uphill to a place where we could see a small check dam upstream of that bund.

The forest seen in this picture is the flip side of the Puthuthottam forest wildlife corridor extending from Parry Agro to the Peria Karamalai estates. That is the reason why wildlife is seen in Valparai.

Closer view of that check dam.

All the estates in Valparai maintain one or more check dams for their own requirements. This particular water source originates in the dense shola forests of the Grass Hills.

The Shola Forests of the southern Western Ghats are natural water generators and that is one of many important reasons why their preservation is so important. Vast tracts of original shola forests were torn down and replaced with plantations of tea, coffee, rubber, spices and ubiquitous eucalyptus and wattle. Though NGO’s and concerned corporates such as Tata have made efforts to restore the original rainforest, a lot more is required to be done.


Another view of that pretty estate


A bushchat also enjoys the view


Someone had thoughtfully left some lunch for this friendly Red Whiskered Bulbul



But this is only plain rice. It’s very dry. Where’s the sambar he says!

The sun was out now in full force. Took a short break from the sun in the shelter of a tea weighing station. In the shade it is soooo cool.


Valparai town seen from Nadumalai


Winding road below the estate. That road comes from Valparai Murugan temple, leading to the bridge from where we took the path into the estate.


Bus to Akkamalai on the road below. The same road goes to Balaji temple and onward to Akkamalai

Going back we took this short cut path leading to the same level as our house, instead of climbing those steep steps – lazy, lazy …


That is our house in the green square, top RHS



Early evening, it was back to the usual Parry Agro circuit.

Our short cut path lined with wildflower hedges filled with a variety of birds. I saw laughing thrushes, flycatchers, barbets, whistling thrush, bushchats, some red birds and many more apart from the old faithful Red Whiskers and Magpie Robin but they were all too fast for my camera.

This road goes through the PWD area. It is a shortcut to the main Valparai Pollachi road.


Crotalaria wildflowers

Forest by the main road


Typical forest tree, Syzigium laetum I think


God’s Own Botanical Garden – a variety of ferns in the embankment off the main road


Estate workers kids fooling around. We used to see them every day.

Pity that hand got cut off in the pic, but they were running uncontrollably in the middle of the road and it was too dangerous to risk an accident so I just took the one pic and we went on our way.

Little path into the forest, leech ridden, proceed with caution!



Forest flowers



Then we saw these other Hornbills high up in those tall trees. Could be Malabar Pied or just Grey Hornbills.



Joseph, the Monkey Watcher told us there is a pair of Great Hornbills in this forest too. He showed us their favourite perching tree too, but we did not see them.


“Framed” view from a bus stop near Parry Agro



Parry Agro estate in the evening light




Tree ferns and wild balsams again – all leech territory, doesn’t pay to go too close




Now we reach Bison Country


And there they are at the other end of that marsh!


And amidst the tea bushes


Almost but not quite 3D effect – by fluke. Anyone knows how to do this by intent, please share the trick.



More pictures of those Bisons of Parry Agro Estate


Big fellow, as big as a medium sized elephant. Have to respectfully call him Bison Anna!


Yes, you had better ….. says he ……..



Some more Bisons crossing the path



“Shooting” bisons

Moving into the tea bushes


Ciao Bisons, see you tomorrow maybe!


By that time it was rapidly getting dark. We did not fancy getting run over by speeding vehicles on the main road so we too scurried back, with torches lit for our own safety.

Last installment coming soon ………..

Simply Brilliant snonymous!! So smooth narration with such gorgeous snaps make it a wonderful read. I like the color saturation and the frames, they are simply superb!! Hat's off to your energy level too that you not only take up this trip but after that come up with such a nice report, please wish for us as well, I doubt if I can walk properly at your age!!


Doing lots of things together is not good, that's proven again here

Oneday I definitely would consider a TN visit and surely come back to you for suggestions. As of now only planning for next 2 years North East actually would happen in December 2013, December 2012 is already planned for Central Arunachal like Tuting/Mechuka/Koloriang etc. I have been to TN but definitely not in details.



You really know me well. This is simply to keep a backup plan in case Lakshadweep Trip gets postponed/deferred by change of ship schedule which is incidentally quite frequent. So keeping some plans ready. I have been to Athirapally in 2009 but unfortunately there is no trip report of that. Two snaps to share with you here, hope that won't be too much of an off-topic here





Thanks for your views and hope there won't be any problem but as you suggested I would surely check with the locals before taking it up.

Wow, I loved those bisons, they all look great!

And BTW, how much did you & your hubby dear walk there? Seems like you both haven't left any place unexplored there? In one of the photos, he does seem exhausted and may be he enjoyed a catnap too!! And now, every time I muster enough courage to plan a trip there, your 'leech warning' makes it's way somehow, somewhere!

About the leech - another excellent method I personally experienced to get rid of them was using dettol solution!

Will wait for the next installment!!