Trip Report Sep/Oct-11 :18 days of bliss at Zanskar and Remote Changthang with family

4th October : Hanle - Photila - Photile - Koyoul - Demchok - Koyoul - Dhungti - Loma - Hanle

We decided to go for Koyul already and we knew the roads are not known, so thought of leaving as early as we could. Observatory GH serves breakfast at 8.00am earliest which would be too late for us, so we packed some leftover sabji of last night and the caretaker prepared few rotis for us in the morning and it's 7.30am in morning on 4th we hit the road. Our first destination was BRO Camp near Hanle Monastery to get more information on road. We found a road sign near monastery showing Photi La at 28km and Photile at 55km in the opposite direction of Loma/Rango. Spoken to BRO Camp and they said Hanle division is responsible for building up roads till Top of the mountain which is Photi La and the descent on other end is being built by Koyul division and they have no idea on road in other side. Only thing we confirmed from locals was this side of the mountain was more rocky and on the other side soil content was more and ascent would be difficult from other end. So we made up our mind and decided to ascent from Hanle end and in case we don't find the route we would have to turn back. The road was paved and the best part was out of 28 km to top, 18 km is tarred as we were informed. The ascent was completely desolate as expected and extremely steep, it was steeper than Wari La ascent. When we reached 18km, the tar road ends and found a BRO Camp there, spoken to the people there, they confirmed road was blasted till top and we could go till that. That's another 10 km, completely of loose stones and boulders and a very steep climb, we realized we have gone up significantly in those few km, the Hanle observatory was clearly visible at a distance much lower height. Few more switch backs and we reached the top, Photi la is the top and the height shown as staggering 18124 ft. We were very happy to be on the top, taken few snaps, the Hanle valley can be seen from top but you can't see anything on other side as it was obstructed by mountain range, amazing scenery. After so many days in the region we still have some breathlessness at the top, it was a great height, no two words about it. After sometime at the top, thoughts of descent started coming into our mind, now the problem starts, we were looking at the descent and it's just blasted the mountain and nothing else have been done, now going back all through to Hanle was risky with so much loose rocks and sharp boulders for first 10km with steep descent and that means we won't be having any time for Koyul / Demchok. Now we are in a precarious position, we understood we had to take a risk whichever way we take, going back to Hanle means known road but missing Demchok, going forward means unknown road but may be reaching Demchok is a possibility and from top we could see the blasting itself was not completed after some turns, but as Hanle division of BRO said they are not building the road, logically we concluded that definitely some road exists till bottom else roads can't be blasted at the top in this end. With just that hope we started our downward journey towards Koyul Valley. It was a bone chilling experience, after a few turn we understood we are moving just in momentum as it was no road practically and as usual the photography completely gone out of my mind. All of us were tensed and we were literally removing stones from road in every 10/20 mtrs to avoid underbody damage of the car and making our roads. Time seems to be too long and absolutely no other lives could be seen anywhere. We were extremely lucky as the weather remained dry for almost 2 weeks then else the muddy stretch we faced in between was impossible to cross had it been raining in last 2/3 days. We saw lots of dozers around and that's only hope as if someone is working there. After almost 2 hours we could find a BRO truck at a much lower height coming slowly, the first encouragement in almost 2 hours of downhill drive. We knew Photile was just 27km from top but didn't understand what it was as none in Hanle had any idea on that location. We found another road diverting from main road towards down adding more confusion but gradient of the road was even more and we decided to be on the earlier road and tried our luck. We met the truck after almost another 45 mins of arduous descent. The BRO people assured us we are on right track but surprised why we took this road as it's not open for cars and even locals don't take this route for its killer gradient. Its there we knew the other road towards down was old road used during 1962 Indo China war and now abandoned. This road is part of the new roads being built along the borders of changthang and ladakh. Photile is point where this road touches the road from Loma - Koyul and it's southern extension. I am not sure where the road towards south was going but BRO mentioned there is an ITBP checkpost towards right at Tee Joint at Photile. One can read the BRO procurement document below to understand few new roads from Photile - Demchok (Distance shown just 24km means it would be across another pass straight crossing the mountains), Photila - Chisumla - Zursar (a 80km stretch most likely the one towards southwards) are being built in these regions. I spoken to couple of BRO personnel and other locals who works for Indian Intelligence. What I understand India is planning a road network, though little late to follow what China has already done on the other side of LAC. Tsomoriri - Chumur - Salsal la - Hanle - Photile - Demchok - Koyul - Loma - Tsaga - Spangmik - Tangtse - Durbuk - Shyok - DBO - Saserla - Sasoma - Nubra is one of the possible link across the LAC.

BRO Procurement Document mentioning the new Roads

Article on Ladakh by Romesh Bhattacharji

The map in Wikimapia showing the roads quite correctly between Hanle - Photile - Koyul - Demchok.


Once at Photile we took the left (Northwards) towards Koyul and in another half an hour we reached Koyul village and as we approached from south side, we escaped both Dungti and Fukche checkpost on our way. We found no shops in Koyul open and finally again Regzin was saviour to get some tea managed from a local house. This is the place where we had to take a call, should we go for army permit from Fukche, we knew we had to answer a lot of questions for not coming through normal route via Loma and also it would be time taking and we may be declined for permit to Demchok. But ideally you need to arrange an army permit from Fuckche airbase for visiting Demchok. We discussed a bit and then took a daring yet risky decision to move towards Demchok without any army permit. Regzin was confident and he just told us to mention as his guest. Demchok is a village that got partitioned during 1962 war and a part of it is now in China and rest in India. What I understood later, people from other villages do visit Demchoks to their relatives and army normally doesn't interfere to the cars going straight to village. Regzin mentioned we can't stop for any photography as everyone watching our cars from OP and a slightest doubt could prove costly, so all photographs had to be taken from moving cars, so be it, only prayer was we should be able to reach Demchok. We took almost a sharp right turn before the Fuckche base towards Demchok and my goodness the colors of mountains were absolutely brilliant, looks some kids have used their crayons to color them, you can see patches of all possible colors in those ranges. Both sides army OP were present and we were driving through Indus basin which is otherwise a desert with bad lands like Rann of Kutch. The feelings hard to describe in words, it's terribly dusty with a tremendous hot sun all through. There was an amazing flat land of 5km which seems as if you are driving through a runway, simply magical and Regzin mentioned in army the stretch is known as "Chandigarh Airport". We reached Demchok and there is a post there, we were scared now but luck was with us, it was unmanned for then, here one road goes up towards army camp and other runs in same height towards village. Regzin straight away drove to village and as a veteran of 1 year there, he knew many villagers, we again had nice rounds of milk and butter tea and maggie there. The Rotis and Sabji we were carrying from Hanle was there too for a nice lunch. It was a great lunch sitting at the Village and in between there is a Nulla of 50 ft and on other side we could see Chinese army watching our every move. We gone to the dead end of the road in Indian side to the hot spring and spoken to our army too. They didn't ask much apart from why we were wasting time there during Dussera. They were very nice persons, offered us tea, biscuits and my kid was offered an energy drink as well. Regzin introduced us as his guests and himself as an ex army of Ladakh Scouts. The road in chinese side was much wider and better and gone beyond we could see into those mountains where as our road ends at this hot spring. It was finally done and in a much better way than reporting to army camp and submitting your camera there and then escorted by army to visit these same places though not at all a recommended way. Thanks to Regzin for his army background and ofcourse our luck, it was possible. We started our return journey soon around 2.30 in afternoon knowing we would be extremely late to reach Hanle. Return was all through the magical mountains and Indus following you all through. We were not stopped at Fuckche Post and we straight away leave Koyul and decided to back through normal route as Ascending Fotula from Koyul end was simply not possible without a 4X4. We reached Dhungti and Regzin somehow managed the checkpost guy, obviously he asked how we gone into without entering into the post. Regzin managed that and we started from Dhungti around 5.30 and after crossing Loma at 6.00pm we got the tarred road again which we left 10km before Photula Top. We reached Hanle at 7.10 finally with extreme tiredness but with a big satisfaction.

The Car Odo reading was as follows:

Hanle - 569
Fotula- 591 (28km but we took couple of short cuts)
Fotule 618
Karle (a small village) - 626
Koyul - 634
Demchok (Hot Spring) - 677
Koyul - 720
Dhungti - 764
Loma - 780
Hanle Observatory GH - 837

Road Marker at Hanle:



BRO Camp 10km before Photila Top:



Rough Road to Top:



Hanle Observatory from Photila Top:



Hanle Valley and Road to Top from Photila:



At Photila Top:





The Descent towards Koyul Valley from Photi La:



The Road to South towards the border, an ITBP Post is there:



Photile BRO Camp below as the Road from Photila meets the Straight Road and goes towards Koyul Northwards:

04th October - Continued Part -2:

From Photile (Koyul Side) looking towards Photi La:



Koyul Valley:



Truck Approaches on the dusty Road:



Colorful Mountains:





Koyul Village ahead, further ahead Fukche Airbase, Road towards right going to Demchok and left towards Dhungti:



Koyul Village:



Road Turning towards right - Demchok



Towards Demchok with colorful Mountains and nice Meadows:

Kaushik,
You have put a lot of work into this trip report! The photos are getting better and better.

04th October - Continued Part -3:

Towards Demchok with colorful Mountains and nice Meadows - Continued:







Indus flowing along the border and marks the LAC here:



Note the Chinese Roads at the other side of Indus clearly visible:





Demchok Village and at the backdrop Chinese Watch Tower:



The 50 ft Nalla as LAC at Demchok, other side is China:





Indian side road ends at Hotsprings here:

04th October - Continued Part -4:

Going Back to Koyul, this flat is commonly called as Chandigarh Airport:



Bad Lands between Koyul and Demchok:





From Koyul to Dhungti:





JK State Transport Bus coming to Koyul:



Closer to Dhungti and Indus reappears:







Amazing Colors of Mountains in setting sun:

5th October : Hanle - Kyun Tso - Salsal la - Chumur - Charchaghan La - Tsomoriri - Korzok

We were ready with another adventure filled day ahead of us. Harsh was of great help with details of this stretch but we were still skeptic with if we really could manage to find our roads to Tsomoriri via Chumur. We started early by 8.30am on that day and plan was to take Hanle - Kyun Tso - Salsal la and then reaching Chumur and tracing back the path to Tee joint as mentioned in Harsh's map and back to Tso moriri via Charchaghan la. We had few concerns, if we could manage Charchaghan la if it was still not blasted, if we could find the road without any GPS/Compass and if we turn back, could we climb up Salsal la as it was pretty steep as reported in Harsh's log. We had plans to take the Kyun Tso - Nidar - Nyoma route as backup if we couldn't find/ manage Tsomoriri route, but then we knew we didn't have the names of Nyoma / Mahe/ Sumdo mentioned in our permits. Not having much choice left, we had to start, only hope our luck, it was surprisingly favouring us all through the trip.
We came to main road from observatory GH and took a right straight away to the village (left would take you towards monastery and the junction of Photila/Loma roads). Soon after crossing the village we found a lot of black neck cranes and it was a pleasure to see them from so close. Soon it seems we were entering a no man's land, only directions are the poles as Harsh mentioned in his log. Few extremely difficult stretch of washed out areas and we were into a desolate Himalayan terrain with no soul around. In just 2 hours with 45km of drive we discovered Kyun Tso. It was a pleasing site. We stopped for photo breaks and just before this we found a track in our right towards Nyoma. We headed straight and in another 6 km we found the dramatic descent of Salsal la. It is a frightening sight, God knows how Harsh climbed it up from other side but best part was the road now blasted and the new road's gradient was much smoother and in case we had to trace back the route, we could climb it up again. We gone down below and after crossing a small Nalla, we suddenly lost the pole markers. We tried our best to find the correct route, we couldn't. Our only option was either to follow tyre tracks forward or to be back via Nyoma. We trusted our lucks and praying hard but decided to go forward. Soon we were brought into a large green pastures of land with many sheeps grazing. We were little hopeful with signs of lives around. Kiangs were roaming and big snow peaks all around, a true remote Changthang feel is what you would get here. After another 10km, we found a place towards right and identified it as an ITBP camp. It was the Chumur ITBP and we saw the Nulla without Bridge at right too. We were already at the side of the Nulla where Chumur village is and realized the actual road was coming from other side of Nalla which we lost in the middle after crossing Salsal la. We visited the monastery which was behind a mountain and a small pass. Lamas were friendly and they showed us mummy and the cut off hands of witch those were the special attractions here. A new road was built below the monastery towards LAC mainly for military movement and villagers reiterated Chinese incursions happened there on 25th August. It was another 12km from the monastery where the Chinsese army destroyed our unused bunkers. We had quick visit to the monastery and when asked about the road to Tsomoriri we got mixed answers. We heard road to Tsomoriri was in a very nice shape but when we asked about the point from where Tsomoriri and Salsal la road bifurcates, the monk answered calmly "You can't manage to find it without a GPS" I was shocked but then he said, I had to cross the Nalla towards ITBP Camp and then take the straight road to right and ensure I shouldn't divert towards Salsal la but neither of us had an idea how to ensure that. He mentioned if you could cross the Nalla, you would almost reach Tsomoriri, I asked quickly what's the problem in crossing the Nalla, he said it's difficult to cross after 2.00pm. It was already 2.00pm by then and we hurriedly proceeded towards the ITBP. From top what we saw was not encouraging, the place where the tyre tracks could be seen was atleast 30 ft wide and it was flowing in full rage. We couldn't guess the depth even as it's appeared to be deep with blue clear water but so turbulent we couldn't see the anything below. First time we felt we had to retreat here. Regzin tried in various ways to guess the depth but of no use. Honestly we were scared as retracing the whole road means uncertainty as we didn't know how to go to the Tsomoriri road from Salsal la. Regzin aligned the Scorpio with the tyre marks and he was clearly nervous too. We gone back 50 mtrs and then he gave the final push, for few seconds we clearly felt we were drifting and then in the momentum we came to the other side, unbelievable experience but we crossed and in the whole trip we haven't scared more. Regzin took a break to check if water gone into any filter/engine but fortunately it was all okay. We started our onward journey through Chumur ITBP, no one there asked any questions and we soon hit a deserted stretch with sands all around. The poles appeared again but the sands were unbelievably sticky. With every 200 mtrs we had to stop the car and clean the wind screen, rear windows, mirrors to get the minimum visibility. Everytime we were stopping we were risking of getting stuck too as sand was too soft. It was a horrible time and worse was we didn't know if we were in right track, only hope was the poles were still there. Soon beside the poles we found some red flags as markers too, running almost parallel but that was adding confusion, couldn't understand what were those markers for. Soon we realized that's the alignment of new road that is coming from Tsomoriri and we were overjoyed to realize that we were in right track. After few more km we started finding the new roads approaching to Chumur. It was simply a 4 lane highway and surely looks much better than current Leh-Manali or Leh-Srinagar highway. With a pleasant surprise we took the new road and it was still an unpaved road but blasted and properly leveled one. Soon we understood Charchaghan La was properly blasted and we reached the top soon. Once descending we got some amazing view of Tsomoriri which one can't get from Korzok end. Couldn't take snaps well as we were at eastern end of lake and sun was on western sky. Finally we reached Korzok by 5.00pm but surprisingly found the whole village was packed with bengali tourists, we were hit by Puja rush for first time in our trip, forced to get the last tent available in only tented accommodation there at a bargain price of 2000/- for double with kid. But we were told they would wind up on 6th and if we wanted to stay further we needed to find some alternatives. The night was absolutely chilling and windy and we decided to move to Leh on next day as accommodation was really difficult to manage, so late in the season. I had 2 backup days then initially planned for Leh - Manali but after such a hectic trip we decided take complete rest and then to fly out from Leh.

The car odo reading was as follows:

Hanle : 844
Kyun Tso: 891
Salsal La (17200ft) : 897
Chumur: 933
North end of lake at Bridge: 010
Korzok: 020


Black Neck Cranes near Hanle Village:



Hanle Village:



Smart Kid at Hanle:



The Road towards Chumur with pole marker at road side:





Lonely Kiang:



The Road Ahead:



Kyun Tso:





Salsal La:

What an amazing trip Kshil!

Brilliant photos. Thankyou for posting this

05th October - Continued Part -2:

The Dramatic Descent from Salsal la towards Chumur, blasted road at left and old road at right:



After this we lost the pole markers and tyre tracks lead us to a grassland:









Only living being apart from us were these Kiangs:



Awesome colors of Changthang would surprise you always:



We didn't know where the road was taking us:



Here we identified Chumur ITBP and realized the actual road was on other side of the river, we somehow came here by loosing the actual road but now after Chumur we had to cross this:



Chumur Monastery (The disputed border with China is 12km from this place):

05th October - Continued Part -3:

The mummy of Lama at Chumur, the one we saw at Giu in Spiti was more realistic looking, here they painted the mummy:



We had to cross this Demon to reach Tsomoriri from Chumur, it was very scaring:



We managed it with quite a few anxious moments and Regzin was celebrating:



It was really big and fierce one:



The pole reappeared on other side of the river:



Absolute remote Changthang:



Now holding the nerve and following the tyre marks were key, we had no GPS or Compass, which one must carry here:



Atlast we got the blasted new roads to Tsomoriri via Charchagan La, it was a nice wide road:



First Look of Tsomoriri from the top:



Earlier road with nasty inclination to Charchagan la:

05th October - Continued Part -4:

Amazing Tsomoriri all the way towards Korzok:

















Korzok from other side of Lake:



The Tents at Tsomoriri :

6th October : Korzok - Sumdo - Tso Kar - Debring - Tanglang la - Upshi - Karu - Leh

We started the day little lazily around 9.15, the maximum late start we had in whole trip. Took a stop closer to lake but again it was odd for photography, in morning sun was at eastern sky and we were at western end. Crossed Tso Kiagar soon and reached Sumdo by 11.00am. At Tsokar had some tea and first time during our trip got some clouds in the sky. We knew weather would deteriorate from 7th onwards and had a detour of few km towards More Plane and then finally took a U turn and head towards Leh. Leh - Manali highway in this side was just ok but we found lots of road works being done in every 200 mtrs and that caused significant delays in taking detours. We hit Tanglangla by 2.45pm but again stopped for 30 mins for road work. Finally reached Leh by 6.00pm and straight away head to Kidar GH again. Thanked God for completing an ambitious trip and it was blissful 2 days of rest at Leh that was badly due.

Tents at Tsomoriri:



Kid was super excited in the tent:



Tsomoriri at Korzok:



Korzok Village:



The lake was awesome:

06th October - Continued Part -2:

Tso Kiagar:



This is funny one:



Sumdo Village:



Road towards Tso Kar:







Tso Kar:

06th October - Continued Part -3:

Tso Kar Village:







More Planes:



Tanglang la Top:



Tanglangla Descent towards Leh:



Road towards Leh:

7th and 8th October : Rest at Leh

Full rest at Kidar, a GH run by Mr. Angchuk who works for All India Radio and his wife and son Jigme who works for Jet Airways. The GH is highly recommended for stay with nice garden and clean and spacious rooms within 800 mtrs from market. Not a busy place and you can enjoy the unhindered view of Stok Kangri from the terrace. The family is very good host and they are expanding a new block which is yet to be ready completely. Jigme helped me to block right hand windows for my return Leh-Del flight in Jet which was otherwise not possible as Jet doesn't allow web checkin for PNRs with kids.

The garden at Kidar GH:



The Apple tree at Kidar GH:



Regzin and his machine, without him the trip was not possible:

9th October: Flyback to Kolkata via Delhi

Took a brilliant flight back to Delhi and got some nice shots of Padum Valley and Nan Kun peak and few glacier shots from top. After a 3 hours break, boarded a flight for Kolkata and landed at my city just short of 4.00pm, outside temperature was 31 and relative humidity was 90 plus, that's the back to reality from otherwise a dream.

Leaving a dream called "Ladakh":



Below the Indus Valley:



Rewinding the memories from the Aircraft, far away, Nun-Kun Massifs:



The awesome Zanskar Valley landlocked completely with clear 3 forks, the one to the fartherst side go towards Kargil, Note the Nun-Kun at far end, the two forks at near end, left one going towards Darcha and right one towards Leh via Zangla:



Flying over the Great Himalayan Range, perpetual snowline:



One unnamed glacier on the Great Himalayan Range: