Badami, Aihole & Pattadakal and off the beaten track

Okay....I'll send some methi ka saag to you as complements.

Only two more??

Part 16: An evening in Hubli!

We drove from Soundatti towards Hubli Via Dharwad on SH 34. We covered a distance of about 65 Kms in 1 ½ Hours with a few halts at regular intervals to enquire with the locals about the route. The road condition was good. By 4.30 pm we were on the outskirts of Hubli (Old NH4).

Very brief introduction to Hubli: Hubli, also known as Hubballi is a major city in the state of Karnataka of India. In Kannada Hu or Hoovu means flower & balli is a creeper, so the name Hubballi literally means "flowering creeper”!

Shri Veerendra Hegde Kalakshetra (theater) on the outskirts of Hubli (Old NH4).



Just a peek into the History: Hubli being a commercial centre, the British had started factories here during the Adilshahi rule which later were looted by Shivaji. This was again conquered by Mughals and the Savanur Nawab built new extension named Majidpura. It was Basappa Shetty who built new Hubli.

The British took old Hubli in 1817 and the new town with 47 other villages was handed over to the British by the Sangli Patwardhan in lieu of the subsidy in 1820. Hubli is a prosperous handloom weaving centre and has a textile unit. The Railway Workshop started here in 1880, made it a reckonable industrial centre.

We made certain enquiries with a few hotels even as we entered the city, but either the tariffs were above Rs. 2000/ per night or the hotels were full (Wedding season)! Hence we drove further into the city. About some 5 Kms before the Hubli city market on the left hand side, found a decent looking budget hotel ‘Hubballi Residency’, after some enquiries we checked into the hotel.

We found it perfect for a night’s stay:



Neat and clean room as well as toilet cum Bathroom. The hotel has an in-house restaurant, too! Room Tariff Rs. 1200/night (Non-A/c) inclusive of taxes, which I found quite reasonable. I would surely recommend this to budget travelers.

After a cup of coffee around 5.00 pm, we were again ready to visit a predetermined place of interest – Chandramouleeshwara temple! Well, I need to report some drama which ensued once we enquired about this temple!! The problem began when the hotel owner informed us that he had not even heard that name before. He generously made some enquiries here and there and with a straight face told us that no one he knew, knew the temple I was referring to!

‘Hmmmmmm, so where did you find this name and this temple which no one has even heard about here in Hubli? Are you sure it is in Hubli? What write-up are you carrying with you, let me have a look. Did you check on the ‘GOOGLE MAP’ if it actually exists? Now, don’t tell me you found this temple while you were searching for some PUZZLE answer.’ - Oh yes, it was my hubby throwing daggers and a volley of questions at 'poor' me! I was there standing sheepishly holding a print out and still thinking on my feet how I could wriggle out of this situation and come out of this mess not only unscathed but also victorious – ofcourse the temple was found while I was merrily looking out for a puzzle answer . The info I was carrying with me was very brief mentioning the Shiva temple to be almost 900 years old and is located close to Unkal Lake! If I accepted that I wasn’t having complete details, then I would have no say for many days in any matter! That would be really tough for even a tough cookie like me!

I have always found some good results with this ‘Offence is the best form of defense’ adage! I had had enough of his interrogation, so I too stared back at him sternly and told him to first step aside and relax for some time, while I made some enquiries. Next, I spoke to the manager and told him that the temple in question was an ancient one and was quite close to a popular lake in Hubli, Unkal!

“Ooooohh! That lake is just a Kilometer away! But an ancient temple? I don’t recollect any there, only a small temple I have seen. Ofcourse some major beautification of the lake is taking place and hence there might be some changes now” he said! This was my opportunity to set right things and deftly handle my hubby! So I told my hubby in the same stern voice ‘see, there is a temple but it may be under renovation. Infact I wanted to visit this lake and not the temple as such. (In between, ofcourse did not forget to thank the god for that Lake and a temple). 'We can spend some time near the lake and come back. After all, what all I had planned we had already seen today morning and everything went off smoothly. I am actually doing a favor by planning the itinerary after so much of research and sometimes a few things are unpredictable, so, no need to jump around and get serious’ - this unyielding reply in a single breath had its effect, I suppose. Unkal lake, we would visit this evening and that was final.

As we drove towards the lake I muttered to myself ‘Gosh! That was very close! Every time I saw some lovely off-beat place and visited it, I used to thank Vinaji, aarosh, hfot2 and many others on WWTPT thread, mentally, and used to beam with pride & take all the credit from my hubby and a few cousins!’ This one time I thought – ‘huh, no more of puzzle thread for me, I was lucky to get away with only an earful this time’! It’s a different issue that one cannot just keep away from that thread, but just imagine my plight at that time!

Anyway, by 5.30 pm we were at this ‘Unkal’ lake, where surely there was this small ‘white’ temple. This temple is dedicated to ‘Shiva’:



Definitely this was a beautiful place to spend an evening.



Cute Nandi in the open porch of the temple:



This Lake, I was told was about 110 years old spread across 200 acres of land & a source of drinking water to a small part of Hubli. It is on the old Pune - Bangalore highway NH4.

We could see at the centre of the lake a statue of Swami Vivekananda.



It did have its share of attractive views!



But then where is this ‘Chandramouleeshwara temple’? Now, how do I mention this! There ought to be an ancient temple here somewhere, I badly needed access to internet! But I dare not mention that in front my hubby!



So while he was still enjoying the views and the tranquility at this place, I snooped around gathering some info about this temple and finally an old gentleman who was strolling around the temple courteously mentioned that there was this ‘old’ temple about a kilometer inside the locality right in front of this lake, which not many visited. It was a narrow lane and could be difficult to take a vehicle inside, he cautioned before he left. Well, now, how could I break the news that the temple I was looking for was not the one we were in already, but another one, probably somewhere close! Time was ticking away and it would get dark soon so with not much choice left I told my hubby that we could just try to drive along the narrow lanes and check if there was anything else interesting there. He too agreed readily without knowing that we were going again on a wild goose chase! But within 5 minutes of our drive in the narrow gullies and some enquiry we were directed to a main road where we were asked to park the vehicle and walk up for about 200 meters within a residential locality to find a temple, whether it was ‘Chandramouleeshwara or not, we are not sure’ were the words of some localites!

Sigh, we did walk up! Anything for this temple, I thought to myself.



As we were walking I was given some ‘silent treatment’! Good for everybody, I thought. As I walked up the narrow lane silently hubby too followed me cautiously! ‘If this expedition goes wrong, then I have had it, but if there is this temple then I can surely take my hubby to task’. I thought ‘Oh, what a sweet revenge that would be’! But the alley through which we were walking did not seem to lead us to some splendid temple, as I had imagined! But wait; one closer look at the steps ahead of us and there we saw a temple!



Well, was I excited to spot this?



AND THIS!! Sabki bolti bandh (Everybody was speechless)



Oh yes Sir, there is a ‘CHANDRAMOULEESHARA TEMPLE’, alright! Standing majestically on a raised platform, but yet to be discovered by people.



What is this beautiful temple doing here? How can it be unknown to the very people who are staying around this historical monument? Shocking!

Even before we could enter the temple, the marvel that this temple is, forced us to stand outside for few minutes and appreciate the beauty! Just take a closer look at the temple’s main entrance, carvings adorning it! It definitely has a vague resemblance to the popular Belur Chennakeshava Temple.



We did notice that the ASI has taken charge of the temple and declared it as protected monument and surprisingly this temple is still in worship! This desecrated Nandi bull has been there for years, I thought as we moved inside the temple.



How does one explain this beauty?





And this:



We walked through a small verandah only to find this attractive inner sanctum-sanctorum where in there was this ‘Shivling’! It was dark inside and without much ventilation; it did become difficult to take photographs.



Kindly note, nobody stopped us from taking photographs even inside the main temple premises. By nobody I mean, the priest who I presume was a person staying in the neighborhood and not any government appointed or a regular priest. He lighted an incense stick near the ‘Shivling’ and placed some flowers and left.

A close up.



With the only visitors in the temple being me & my hubby, we could easily take a few photographs without much hesitation! The corridor along the inner sanctorum.



Oh well the temple houses 2 ‘shivlings’!



The doorway of the sanctorum also displays carvings.



As we moved out, we saw another Nandi bull in the Verandah which we had missed while entering the temple. It is surprising to see 2 nandi’s in the same temple – one outside the temple on the porch and the 2nd inside the temple! But this one looked in much better shape!



It was time we took a closer look at the sculptures adorning the external walls of this temple!



We soon found out that the temple has 4 doors but only the main entrance was kept open and the rest locked up!

One of the side entrance:



As we walked along:



We walked ahead slowly admiring the work of those unknown sculptors! Well nothing much I could write to explain about the beauty we were gazing at, so just these snaps!



In a niche, hidden!



On the lintel:



Once we had reached the rear side of the temple, we could notice how the encroachments had taken place! Hopefully the ASI would take note of this and try to bring up a compound wall which would only help in securing this temple a bit!



Oh, this would be a regular place of meetings too, I think, to discuss the day-to-day happenings! I could only wish that they knew how privileged they were to live amidst such a beautiful historical monument.



We moved gaping at each and everything!





It was not just on the temple walls that one could find something interesting! Here & there, everywhere! Waiting for restoration!





Back to the walls:



Image of dancing Lord Ganesha



The temple walls, pillars and pilasters are covered in lovely carvings. This temple is a fine example of Chalukyan temple architecture.









Just as we were about to leave from this place, why not a ‘Panoramic shot’? The light was dim, but nevertheless, a click! The temple looked like a lotus in a pond.



We walked back silently to the vehicle, this time totally stunned with what we had just seen! Not at all a popular temple but still it managed to captivate our heart! How many such temples go unknown/unnoticed by people!!! We drove back to Unkal lake as it was just 7.30 pm. We spent another 45 minutes in this small temple where the ‘Om Namah shivaaya’ chant was being played continuously on the music system as the cool breeze from the lake had a calming effect on us.



At a distance ofcourse, there was a wedding reception taking place.



The colorful lights shimmering on the lake water only extended our visual treat further! What a day it was, was all what we could think!

Naveena....please learn a lesson from Balaji telefilm's soaps and stretch this report a little more.

The last photo of the reflection is OUTSTANDING! Let me wear my wig and take my hat off!

where were you? I think all those dosas & coffee at Mysore cafe has done no good to you ! Missing on IM for so many days?

BTW, Thanks Ronak!

You caught on pretty fast from my reply to sagarneel !! But then, thanks !

As I have mentioned earlier, it was never Badami & other places! It would have been Soundatti, Hooli and max another small little place which I will reveal in my next post! All off-beat! I am not very fond of well known places! But I would definitely take that extra step to visit an unknown or lesser known place! Having said that any opportunity I find to travel, I would not miss - known or unknown place for that matter!

I missed Mahakuta !! Wasn't in the original itinerary of 'mine'!! But tried to squeeze it in! I would have to cut short something else or extended my stay, which was impossible! So, as snonymous mentions, 'next time'!

At Soundatti, we were there during lunch time and it was hot but surprisingly it would become cloudy at times and it was breezy while we took a walk on the ramparts. So we did not find it difficult to move around, but yes, photography wise I had to choose only those angles where I could avoid facing Sun directly!

I am contemplating asking the moderators to alter the title to ' Badami, Aihole, Pattadakal and some more, a trip report'! WOuld it sound better ?

Methi ki saag? , when? I will wait for it !!

If I write any more, I will be thrown out of IM membership! Level of tolerance should never be challenged !

This will be duly conveyed to my 'hubby dear'!! Thank you! I had mentioned previously that hubby does an excellent job with night photography, remember ?

BTW with or with out wig, I love all the compliments, so will my hubby !

You NEVER said that 'outstanding' to my photographs!! And just 3 photos of my hubby...and pat comes that 'outstanding'!! Surely men can be 'mean' !

Naveena, I've modified your title. The one you chose is too long.

How dare you challenege our level of tolerance!! As far as I am concerned I am ready to be bitten by mosquitoes while reading this! (pardon my lack of humor ).

Please convey to him, in addition to this, that he has been looking amazing throughout this trip! If I am not wrong, the fourth photo of the latest instament was a silhouetted portrait of his. You did a gret job as a photographer, but he too did a great job as the object of the photo.


That was flipper out of nowhere! Real mean of me! Here's making amends - Credit goes to both of you for such an OUTSTANDING photolog!

Yes, I am aware of your earlier plan. What I was telling is that it was impossible to gauge the extent of places (including quite a few off-beat ones) you traveled from the earlier thread title, itself.

Anyway, thanks to TD. The new one is better in that respect.

My bad. I forgot that you missed it. In fact, I had seen your husband's pics at Banashankari and the subsequent replies from Kaushik-Da (I mean kshil) and had taken Mahakuta as granted (just as Ajanta and Ellora both comes in our mind when you take any one name).

Certainly next time. I like this idea of leaving a few things for the next trip myself. Just as I missed out the Buddhist cave at Badami, but that was, unlike your case, purely beacuse of my ignorance.

How dare you post completely contrasting posts within such short period of time?

Who knew that I was being chased by a sleuth!

I would have revolted even if you had not written the first part quoted by me in my earlier post.

It is the humor and its appropriate use that makes reading many of your posts all the more enjoyable.

Sorry, overlooked that! Did not realize until you pointed it out !

That was very fast, thank you !

That was indeed a good one ! I will request all the mosquitoes in my neighborhood to travel to Kolkata, right ?

Oh really, he too did a great job? Well the 4th photo you are referring to in the post, would you like to know how he looked to me in that photo? I will surely have a 'black eye' after posting this - 'a black drongo'! Gosh, am I too much into birds these days, need to slow down a bit !

I did not have the courage to tell him that, but now I need to tell him, I cannot keep quiet for long you see !


Good that you made amends immediately, else I would have flown along with those deadly mosquitoes to Kolkata to bite you! Just imagine !

Yes, I agree completely!

Good job, Biman

Don't even think of doing that. We have enough of them. Rather, show them the way to New Delhi.

That is absolutely hilarious Biman !!! Not sure if the dilli wallas and wallis on the site would be amused though ...

Super pics of the Chandramaulisvara Temple, Naveena

It is listed on the ASI site.

Why am I getting so confused?? ...black drongos, mosquitoes...well, may be 'coz a black drongo looks a bit like an enormously magnified mosquito, with some anatomical modifications and a lot of weird imgination!

Agreed to Biman's statement...Kolkata already has its share of mosquitoes, and we'd not like to distract Biman amidst his travelogue . Send the 'manav rakt pipasu jeev' right away to Delhi, Naveena.....I have your TR and photos as Odomos!

See the below quoted post to know why I referred New Delhi. I have no personal rivalry with any Delhiwala (including Delhiwala in spite of the fact that he is a moderator).

It is a gem of a one-liner describing mosquitoes. They may contact you for purchasing the copyright.

Biman, if people take offence for such small things, they really need to lighten up!