a little essay about driving in rural India

Brisso

Think you mean .09l - ie. 90cc

TANGOGOLF

There was a story in the London Evening Standard a few years ago. It reported on a motorbike rider who passed through an area where they were flying kites. A glass encrusted string caught him across the neck and cut his throat - he died.

Always expect the unexpected.
Learn how to fix your horn.

edwardseco

I learned to fix a carburator by feel. Screaming does an effective replacement for a horn.

I live near the San Andreas fault. Yes, I have recent damage to my home, stucco & drywall. Repairs, repairs..

Aishah

Ah, edwardesco, my memory not so bad after all! You could have been NZ but it doesn't bake! Sounds like a recent quake? Sorry to hear about damage to your home, as long as you are o.k.that is the main thing..
Back to topic - I don't think anyone has mentioned and I don't know about South India, but here it seems to be give way to your left even though we drive on the left!! Here you go straight into a roundabout and the people on the right give way to you!
Very strange... Of course, absolutely no knowledge of road rules as we know them. And if it's a truck/bus on any side you give way to it.

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kmalik

Many thanks for the responses to my 3rd-party insurance question. Sorry for being late with my acknowledgments. I simply got too busy and did not manage to get to IM.

I am planning to drive my parent's Zen diesel to the mountains in Kumaun/Uttaranchal region this December. I have some experience driving in India where I originally learned driving (although I am always a bit shaky at the start) and plenty of narrow mountain road driving experience abroad. However, I've never driven in the mountains in India.

Are there any particular mountain driving do's and don'ts in India? I know the bigger vehicles and those on an incline have a right to courtesy. I am a competent and careful driver, but want to be as informed as possible.

Is Zen diesel OK to drive in the mountains? With diesel engine - I am counting on it to have sufficient torque. Is that right?

My plan is to go through Almora and environs. I hope to go into the Pithoragarh district - and even make a loop through Pithoragarh if that is possible, but it might get too snowy for that.

Sorry about the rambling post. I would appreciate any advice you might have. Many thanks!

capt_mahajan

A diesel may give you some starting problems if it is very cold, but should be ok where you are going.

Offhand, I would not advise anybody who has not driven in India for a long time (if that is indeed the case) to drive in the mountains immediately after return.

Normal hill driving rules apply, Uphill traffic has right of way.... but these days there are enough people with low experience driving there, so caution is advised.

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Aishah

When I was taking taxis from Picture Palace up to Landour, it seemed to me there was no strict keeping of rules for passing in tight spots - whoever had the most space passed first and often it was the downhill traffic. Indica diesels had no problem negotiating tight spots and corners provided you changed gears down; a maruti zen will be even better because it is slightly narrower. if you have plenty of narrow road, mountain driving experience I think you would be o.k. Main thing is your clutch,accelerator and handbrake coordination - if it is spot on you will be fine i.e. if your car is not automatic. The roads in the area where I was were sometimes steep, but good surfaces. I thought I could drive there myself with no problem. Also watch out for idiots and just take it easy.

JamesW

The original post is a good one. I know that I am guilty of being infatuated with the new found freedom that India's anarchic roads present. But for an anarchy to work requires individual responsibility. Admittedly a fair number of the locals show precious little restraint, but it's worth taking some care even if only for reasons of selfish self-preservation. Slowly-slowly wins the race over here; not to say that you can't have some fun on your bike or in your car though! My carnage total after nearly two years is a single dog. Possibly this is an improvement on my several fluffy bunny deaths back in the UK - but it is hard to miss them if you ever drive at night in NE Scotland.

Nick-H

Aishah, actually the roundabout rule is the same as UK: give way to the right, or traffic already on the roundabout. Just that people don't usually bother.

At least not in Chennai

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Dilliwala

Good to know that. Much easier than driving thru water-logged fields.

kmalik,
1. Very good pointer from Capt - MAKE SURE YOUR HEATER PLUGS ARE OK!
Mine weren't in Manali 10 days ago, turned out all 4 were completely burnt out, this after having had a full service done a week before. The Delhi temp was/is warm enuff to give no indication of defective plugs, in Manali I finally required a push-start after cranking away for 10 mins. After replacing the plugs, one 'heat' was enuff to start next morning after an 8 C night. My workshop is about to catch hell tomorrow.

2. Remember the "highway code", right indicator means "overtake me".

3. Except when:
a. Downhill vehicle is bigger than yours, like a truck or bus, even an empty one.

b. Downhill vehicle is a pick-up truck the same size as your vehicle, but is loaded.

c. Downhill vehicle is a pick-up truck the same size as your vehicle, but is not loaded.

d. U have an out-of-state number plate, espesh a low-caste one, i.e. from the plains.

e. U have an in-state number plate, but downhill vehicle same size as yours has a commercial plate.

f. U are on the inside (mountain-side) and there is no space for 2 vehicles to pass, u have to back up even if it's 300 metres, but he wud have to back up only 20 metres.

g. U are on the outside (steep drop-side) and there is no space for 2 vehicles to pass, u have to back up, becos the other guy's a local and has the ability to make u feel like u have insulted 7 generations of his family line if u don't. BTW, NRIs even with pahari parents do not qualify as locals.

h. In general, driver and/or occupant/s of downhill vehicle are local/s and have the ability to make u feel like u have insulted 7 generations of their family line if u don't back up.

i. Downhill vehicle belongs to Army/BRO/GREF/ITBP/SSB/Police.

j. Downhill vehicle has a signboard saying "Govt of India".
Or even worse, a signboard saying "Govt of ...(fill in name of state)".
Or even worse, a signboard saying "...... (fill in name of political party running state govt)".
Or even worse, a signboard saying "...... (fill in name of main opposition party in the state)".
Or even worse, a signboard saying "...... (fill in name of minor party with no hope of ever running state govt or even becoming main opposition party)".
Or even worse, a signboard saying "...... (fill in name of regional party from another state with no hope of ever making significant inroads in this state)".
Or even worse, a signboard saying "...... (fill in name of regional/small party with communal ideology who think just becos it works in their state it will work in this state too becos the majority of voters are of the same religion as them, but it won't)".
Or even worse, a signboard saying "President, Local Traders Assn."
Or even worse, a signboard saying "Secretary, Local Traders Assn."

I think that about covers the rules of hill-driving.

anjuna mark

These days, many choose to drive on the roads.
]Good to know that. Much easier than driving thru water-logged fields.

perhaps; but not nearly as much fun, and considerably more dangerous.

Nick-H

Hmmm, yes... like walking on the pavements is often more dangerous than walking in the road.

Aishah

Sounds like Chennai roundabout 'rules' same as here - btw I do know the 'real rules', NZ and Oz have UK driving rules! It's bizarre here, UK rules for left of road, but American rules often for roundabouts, busy intersections etc. Actually it is Indian rules - just barge in where you can!
Great post, Dilliwalla - that up to Landour road would have more Downhill has Right of Way than Uphill! Now I see the reasons! And so true...

kmalik

Thank you Captain, Aishah and Dilliwala for your kind responses to my query. I will make sure we check out the heater plugs prior to start. Will let you folks know if we survive the experience.

OcoeeG

I live in Mussoorie and drive an Enfield all over these mountains. Your advice is great!!!! I have taken a few long trips now and thankfully (knock on wood) have not had too many issues but it is great to hear the reminders that it can happen and what to do if it does. Thanks for the great post.