My Pilgrimage to Some Architectural Wonders of Karnataka

Previous: Preparation for the Crash Course

There are a number of alternate paths for reaching Agasthya Tirtha from the main road, in addition to the two roads that opens into the parking lots, one in front of the cave complex and the other in front of the museum. But the narrow zigzag lanes through the densely populated locality were my favorite. In fact it has been so for most of the times. It was a live exhibition of lifestyle of the people of Badami that was laidback yet jovial at the same time. Simply the journey was not any less enjoyable than our destination.


An old man in front of his house




Another enjoying a post-lunch nap




But there were some livewares too, bubbling in energy




Advanced Course on In-Vivo Temple Architecture:

Similar to its more famous cousins at Ajanta and Ellora, the caves at Badami is numbered according their position, starting from the rightmost one while facing the cave complex. But unlike them, the elevation of caves here increases with increasing number. Among the four caves at Badami 1 to 3 are Bramhinical (cave 1 was dedicated to Shiva, 2 and 3 to Vishnu) and 4 is Jain. Up to this point everything is clear and there is no problem.

But an advanced course without question, confusion and anxiety is as boring as a friendly gathering in the College Street coffee house without discussion, debate and argument! And in this case, none other than ASI took care of confusing us even before the class started. An ASI plaque before we entered the first cave says, “Cave 1…..was the first of four caves to be excavated…..circa 550 AD”. And according to K. R. Srinivasan (who worked with ASI for over two decades), “The earliest….one is Cave III excavated…..in AD 578.”

Thankfully we had no exam to clear, hence put aside all confusions and entered Cave 1. Did we? Or rather did anyone enter unhindered? It is barely possible, unless one walks setting his sight right on his own toes. The first look towards right, and someone cried out from inside “Hard to Starboard”! The father of all Natarajas was calling us extending his all 18 arms. Who has the power to disobey him and enter his adobe?
Although we would find latter that both in terms of size/number of sculptures and extent of ornamentation Cave 3 draws the lion’s share of limelight towards itself, my favorite there clearly was the 18 handed Shiva. I don’t know how, but I felt that relief to be one of a kind in the whole cave complex, where tourists would fail to outnumber sculptures even on the most crowded day!


The 18 armed Nataraja was the center of attraction




Structurally all three Brahminical cave temples are quite similar in planning confirming the doctrine that they were excavated within a very short period, specifically the last quarter of 6th century. They all consist of a wide and high façade forming the front of a rectangular Mukha-Mandapa (frontal hall) followed by an almost square Maha-Mandapa (main hall) in front of a relatively small Garbha-Griha (sanctum-sanctorum). The pillars and pilasters are massive in size yet charming in shape, design and ornamentation. All the famous relief sculptures like the 18 handed Nataraja, Ardhanareeshwara and Harihara in Cave 1, Vamana (or Trivikrama) and Varaha in Cave 2 and Vamana, Varaha (again), Narasimha and Vishnu (standing and seated on Sheshanaga) in Cave 3 are carved in the façade and Mukha-Mandapa region. So unlike Ellora, where high quality reliefs are abundant in dark cave interiors, these figurines receive ample sunlight to be appreciated without the help of a flash-light.


A guide explaining Trivikrama to visitors




And in spite of all the above similarities cave 3 has some special features that has attracted the limelight towards itself. While approaching it one senses something special that was not present for the preceding two caves – the gateway opening in a large courtyard. And standing on this courtyard, one realizes that it has grabbed the best position in the hill with a panoramic view of Agasthya Tirtha encircled by the sandstone ridge.


A view of Agsthya Tirtha




Standing at the edge of the courtyard as one looks back at the cave under a soaring yet smooth stonewall, it seems as if a curtain-raiser ceremony for a grand artwork was underway. But the inaugurator for some unknown reason has left it halfway. Or, like a Sambalpuri Saree in a display window showcasing its delightful design in anchal.


Carvings at the top of the columns in Cave 3



The last cave one reaches in this complex is a Jain cave. It was the last to be excavated at a much later period. Obviously, it is different from the first three Brahminical caves in more than one ways. The long frieze of dancing ganas at the front of the plinth is absent here, the pillars and pilasters are much less ornate and so is the ceiling. This lack of ornamentation augers so well with the principle and ideology of Jainism. If the first three caves are a fair ground displaying colors, vibes and conflicts of human life, then the fourth one certainly is the large banyan tree beside that ground where exhausted people seeks refuge under its cool shade.

A visitor appreciating the ceiling works of the Jain cave




And in the cave complex everyone was enjoying time in their own suitable way



Unfortunately, there wasn’t much time in our disposal so that we could stay there for any longer. We had to retract ourselves and left for the temple complexes on the north-eastern and eastern side of Agasthya Tirtha. We had to attend our basic course on “in vitro” temple architecture, too.

Next: Basic Course on In Vitro Temple Architecture

Great captures Biman! I will read through the entire thread at leisure ... writing takes up time these days. Hope tatanagar was good.

Aha, we are back and how?

My pick from the latest you have dished out to us- like a Sambalpuri Saree in a display window showcasing its delightful design in anchal. Love your way of describing certain things


BTW, what time were you in the caves, biman? I can see the golden hues in the 'Trivikrama' photograph.


Nice one again, biman.

Ahhh...here we go again...the lovely photos are back!!! Great write-up and photos again, Biman.

Thank you, Vaibhav. You take your time and finish your grand work on Odisha. I know how much time consuming it is.

The weekend trip was great. We visited Dassam falls, near Ranchi on Sunday and enjoyed both the journey and the destination.

Thank you Naveena-Di. I am happy to know that you people liked it.

We were there at the caves at around 4-5 PM, can't recollect the exact time now. But we left it before it was closed as we had to visit Bhoothanatha temple complex.

Thank you, Sagarneel. The way you people waited for me to resume the report and helped me during the hard time, is highly appreciated.

What a lovely way for me to start my day Biman. Reading your blog and feasting on the photos with my morning cup of tea.
Many thanks and happy travels in between more writings and photos please.
Vee

Your photographs are superb, Biman! I will read and digest your wonderful text slowly, as it deserves.

Biman, I really don't have word to appreciate these portraits, amazing composition!!

Thanks a lot for all your comments and wishes, Vee. I am really glad to know that you liked it.

Thank you, TD. Please take your time.

It is really a special feeling when appreciation comes from a photographer of your caliber.

This was another aspect, beside architecture, that we enjoyed so much there. The people we met over the two weeks, were so jovial irrespective of their age. Specially the younger ones. I have never seen so many smiling faces in my city in a whole week, that I used to encounter there in a single hour.

Previous: Advanced Course on In-Vivo Temple Architecture

Basic Course on In Vitro Temple Architecture:

Our capability to distinguish the advanced course we had a little earlier from the basic one we were about to take was similar to the difference between a full moon and a no moon for a nyctalopic. But as I have said earlier, we had no scholarly ambition. So we were promptly on our way towards the Mallikarjuna and Bhootanatha Temple complexes, situated at the diagonally opposite end of Agasthya Tirtha.

Agasthya Tirtha is to Badami what Ganga is to Varanasi – The Heart. A place that is considered sacred and the water, holy with healing effects; revered by pious and used for household purposes; has its due share of history and legend; frequented by hordes of tourists and haunted by photographers. And similar to Ganga at Varanasi, Agasthya Tirtha at Badami also boasts of a number of old temples at its periphery.


It is extensively used as Dhobi Ghat,




As a good place for an afternoon walk following a post-lunch nap




For giving cattle a thorough wash




Specially when good arrangements are there to park them, too.





Beside the famous ones, there are some other temples in the close vicinity of the lake like this one




These temples, in terms of both quantity and quality of sculptures and carvings are no match to the cave temples beyond the water body. Still their USP is the stonework. This time it is not only on their walls, columns and ceilings, but also in their surroundings. It is a great Jugalbandhi between human and nature. Agasthya Tirtha bound by long red sandstone staircases at the feet of the agra-mandapa and a massive red wall of natural rock formation outlining the background for the Vimana makes a perfect adobe for Bhoothanatha, i.e. Lord Shiva. What can be a more fitting home for him when he returns after a long and exhausting day in office at Cave 1, entertaining admirers by Tandava-Nritya, disproving critics by performing Ardhanareeswara and attesting his unanimity with colleagues through Harihara. Sitting there with his legs dipped in the water of Agasthya Tirtha and resting his back against the sandstone hill behind must be his favorite way to relax. At least, it was exactly so for me even though I was resting my back only against the next staircase.


Bhoothanatha group of temple sandwiched between Agasthya Tirtha and the sandstone ridge




After a roundtrip in these temples, we sat there in front of Bhoothanatha temple for quite some time, before it was time for Lord Shiva to return. The guards were making the place cleared for his homecoming. But it was not before we had a grand display of divine artwork on the ethereal canvas above Agasthya Tirtha. The hide and seek of the Sun behind clouds just before the final dip into the horizon was by far the best possible way to conclude the day.


Sunset from Bhoothanatha temple




Life IS as it comes:

That night, my wife had mild fever and was feeling very weak. So we postponed our daylong trip to Aihole and Pattadakal next day (7th October). Our initial plan was to leave Badami on 8th for Gadag, visit Trikuteshwar temple and Lakkundi from there and spent that night in Gadag before leaving on 9th morning for Hampi. But under the circumstances, I had to make some rescheduling. And according to that, I would be travelling to Gadag and Lakkundi alone on the 7th, followed by the trip to Aihole and Pattadakal next day hoping that she will be fine by then. I was happy (finally I would be going to Lakkundi) and so was my wife, I presumed (after over a week she would get rid of me for a whole day, from sunrise to sunset!!!).

Next morning, I was at the bus stand by 5-45 AM to catch the 6 AM bus to Gadag. The bus took almost two hours. My first destination was Trikuteshwar temple complex at Gadag.


An elderly co-passenger in the bus to Gadag




But before the treat for eyes started, I badly needed something for stomach as I was yet to break my fast that morning. And as my wife was enjoying a day without me, I wanted it without idli and vada. I really love South-Indian cuisines, but their non-stop appearance in my breakfast menu over the last one week had made me game for even butter-toast! It was almost 8 AM, the first restaurant beside Gadag bus stand was yet to start serving anything except those two items and by that time the liquor shop beside it had outnumbered its neighbor’s items in terms of customers present there. And they didn’t seem to be fan of take home service! I have never been to a place where people are so high in spirit at such an early hour.

So I bought, believe me, a packet of biscuits and started for the temple on foot. Wholeheartedly aided by local people, I reached my destination just when I emptied the packet. Even from 50 steps before the entrance gate, one cannot imagine what a gem of Kalyani Chalukya architecture is hidden inside a lower-middle class locality of that town. The temple premise was almost deserted when I reached there, and I was completely unaware of what I would experience by the next half an hour. A ritual celebration that I would be witnessing for an hour or so and then would be relishing for may be the entire life. It was the day after Dussehra. The Brahmins of that locality including the family of temple pujari perform a special custom on that very day, every year. And by virtue of luck I was present there (and not at Aihole) at the very appropriate hour.

Next: Witnessing A Gala Event at Gadag

Did you get the chance to visit the caves in the same place Bhoothanatha group of temple?

See the caves Where Was This Photo Taken? (2)

No Aarosh, we didn't know about it earlier. In fact overlooked it in WWTPT(2) thread, too.

biman, lovely photographs! Unfortunately I couldn't be at the caves for sunset during our stay at Badami. The photograph of sunset from Bhutanatha temple is superb!

Biman, I have never seen such a stylish cow in my life!
And the light streak from the clouds in wonderful!

Thank you, Naveena-Di and Sagarneel.

That we enjoyed wholeheartedly in Badami. And that can be a good excuse for you to revisit Badami in near future.

Neither me.