My Pilgrimage to Some Architectural Wonders of Karnataka

Well, I really feel pity for these poor little fellows in my neighborhood. They even don't have a proper playing field.

Did you make "brooom brooom" while running? We used to do that, but that was even before I started going to school.

You bet, I did . Along with broom broom, there were quite a few 'Ki ki and sometimes Keeeee' too, that was honking amidst imagined heavy traffic ! It feels so stupid now, but back then had loved every minute of our playtime!

Previous: Temple Hunt at Naraynpura

The Jackpot Named Jalasangvi:

I had almost given up my last hope by the time I boarded the bus at Bidar for Basavakalyan. I knew Jalasangvi was almost 2 kms from the highway that connects Bidar and Humnabad, but that was all I knew. Several queries at Bidar resulted in either casual shrugs or definitive horizontal head movements.

On my return journey from Basavakalyan, I couldn’t get a direct bus to Bidar and little later I would know that was a boon in disguise. While waiting for the bus to Bidar at Humnabad bus station I thought of giving one last try, and I thank myself still today for that decision.

Within 15 minutes I was inside a moving Tata Magic on my quest for another living Shiva temple from Kalyani Chalukya period. The driver dropped me right next to the temple. Jalasangvi is around 1 km of the main road (not 2 km according to Google search) that connects Bidar and Humnabad, some 8 kms from the later.

The temple is inside a walled compound and the carvings and reliefs are in great shapes. Describing the artworks on display in this temple is far beyond my reach, so I wouldn’t try. But one thing can certainly be said that this temple is a jewel in the crown of Kalyani Chalukya architecture, but somehow has been lost in the wilderness.


Richly decorated pillar, a common feature of these temples




The Shiva Lingam in the Sanctum-Sanctorum




Quite opposite to my experience with beautiful clay-made Durga idols, these temples look more gorgeous from the back side




Another rear view, but from a little different angle




Like this small section, the whole outside wall was full of sculptures and carvings of very highest quality




And a little closer look at them




A charming relief of dancing Ganesha




An artistically placed inscription adds to the aesthetic beauty of the temple




Unlike its counterpart at Narayanapura, it was bustling with some middle aged persons gossiping and almost a dozen village children (read livewires) perfecting the art of unorthodox tree climbing.


It was a shocking experience to discover this kind use of 1000 year old sculpture panel




A perfect example of "impish grin"




Even a monkey would feel proud to mimic this pose




I thought they have shifted their base from Hampi err Kishkindha




After spending a good one hour there, I started walking towards the main road for catching a bus to Bidar. But came to know that the buses don’t stop there and I have to go back to Humnabad. Finally, I got back to Bidar that evening around 6 PM.


A Detour on Way Back to Hotel: The Barid Shahi Park

The first chapter of our journey was about to end. We were to catch the overnight bus to Bijapur at 9 PM. And I had just enough time in hand to have a round at the Barid Shahi Park, before I got back to hotel. The park, unlike other architectural monuments under the supervision of ASI remains close from 8 AM to 4 AM. It opens twice a day, once in the morning from 6 to 8 AM and once in the evening at 4 PM. I don’t know the closing time.


One of the Barid Shahi Tombs inside the park




And another from the same dynasty




The color code tells that the fountain is from a latter period




It is a popular place for morning walk, and for hanging out in the evening for people of Baidar. With illuminated tombs, fountain, benches and restaurant it is also a perfect place for a traveler to relax after an exhaustive day at the archeological sites. But I hardly had any time to relax there. So had a brief session of nighttime photography of the tombs and the fountain before returning to hotel to get ready for the overnight journey.


Acknowledgement:

Before getting into the second chapter (i.e. Bijapur) I would like to thank Jorge Reverter whose two threads on Bidar and Ashtur was the first inspiration behind my Bidar trip. He is truly the “off the beaten track member” in IM.


Bibilography:

1. Bidar: Its History and Monuments Accommodation by Ghulam Yazdani for History, architecture and descriptions of monumnets

2. Antiquities of Bidar by Ghulam Yazdani for some vintage photographs of the monuments of Bidar.


Accommodation:

The Krishna Regency (Once again recommended by Jorge)
Near New Bus Stand, Udgir Road, Bidar 585 401, Tel: 08482-221 991-95, 093411 11136, Fax: 08482-228 388

Non-ac double room for 450 rupees (October 2011). The room was spacious, so was the bathroom (even had a bathtub), clean and the staffs were helpful. 24 hour checkout facility was there that saved one night’s tariff.


Transport:

For Ashtur better hire an auto/car (if you don’t have private vehicle). Buses are not very frequent, although there is one at 7 AM that we took.

Buses are available every half an hour for Basavakalyan, takes 2 hours to reach there. The distance being ~80 kms.

The overnight KSRTC bus to Bijapur is not recommendable unless you enjoy overnight train journey in general compartment. There is no option of advance booking, the bus is non ac, doesn’t have push back seat and remains crowded till Gulbarga. You may have to jostle to grab your seat.

Next: Adil Shahi's Abode: Bijapur

I was waiting for the log to be completed but couldn't resist anymore.

IM contains such wealth of information that one can literally roam around the beautiful country called India, just reading through the posts of such high standards.

Biman - many fellow IMers have already expressed their gratitude. Please allow me to be the newest one to pour a few more tiny droplets into the ocean of appreciations.

Fantastic work - both the write-up and the bunch of snaps. You mentioned that you'd be going at a snail's pace initially, but the pace is really perefect for us to soak in the great work you have been carrying out and to satiate the thirst of our wandering souls.

KUDOS!!!!

I completely agree with you on this point. It is such a gem of a website for India travelers.

And thank you Saugata for the kind words. It's the love and encouragement of you people that makes this work all the more enjoyable.

hi biman and kshil,
what a great guys you are,the planning,travelling and write up its just amazing.
Truly gifted people,

Thank you for your kind words, N kumar.

It's a privilege for me to have my name being referred alongside Kaushik-Da (i.e. kshil). I am still at the foothill of the learning curve whereas Kaushik-Da sits much closer to the summit.

P.S. - Sorry for the delay in updating the report. I will be going home tonight for Saraswati Puja and will be back only on Sunday. I will try to post the next part by Mon/Tuesday.

hi biman,
If you are still at the foothills where do you think guys like me be ?
I have been travelling from the age of 14 for almost 35 year and i could not pen down even a single page,
probably i have to take some classes from you
you guys are really, really great

Have great trip home, Biman. Would look forward to your report come next week.

What a great amount of experience you have up your sleeves. But, just the fact that one doesn't shoot during or write about after the journey doesn't make her/him a lesser mortal in any way.

My wife seldom reads relevant materials before the trip. The number of times she has pressed the shutter release button of a camera in her life hasn't reached three figure mark. But in terms of spirit, eagerness, enthusiasm and enjoyment, she is a better traveler than myself.

Thanks for the wish, Sagar. I had a great time at home.

That's what is important...and these qualities differentiate a traveller from a tourist!

BTW...your thread title reminds me of a landmark book in mountainnering - Nanga Parvat pilgrimage by the great Austrian montaineer Herman Buhl.

Not exactly (in fact I haven't heard of that book before), but it is a stolen one from (or in a more civilized manner inspired by) the book "My Pilgrimages To Ajanta and Bagh" by Mukul Chandra Dey.

Please don't get me wrong. I never meant to say you had stolen (or even inspired by the title) the title...I was just stating something that came to my mind...I loved Herman Buhl's title...and I loved the title of your thread to. There's a notable difference between a journey and a pilgrimage...your TR has the apt title.

If you want, I can edit my previous post.

No, No and a big NO. I haven't meant anything like that. And I know very clearly what you tried to say. Please, don't misunderstand me and don't edit your post. In fact, I should have thanked you for your query.

I really feel that I have stolen his title and I would have acknowledged that once I completed my report. I couldn't get any other appropriate title for this thread and borrowed it from this book, that I had read prior to my visit to Ajanta and other nearby places in 2010.

Okay! I'm relieved!