My Pilgrimage to Some Architectural Wonders of Karnataka

Previous: The Bahamani Belongings

Tale of A Minister and His Madrasa:

Before getting into Ramayana, let’s have a look at Rama. Mahmud Gawan, who served as the prime minister of Bahmani rulers from 1458 to 1481, was by far the brightest star of his era. He was perhaps the greatest statesman and general known in the history of Deccan. According to contemporary literature he was a great scholar and particularly ‘in mathematics he had few equals.’

But in a kingdom ruled by autocratic government, the fate of city as well as citizens depend mostly, if not exclusively, upon the personal qualities of the ruler. It was sheer bad luck for Bidar and Mahmud Gawan that they had, in Muhammad Shah Bahmani, one of the worst possible rulers at throne. Under the combined effect of liquor and conspiracy he gave order for Mahmud Gawan’s execution, which inevitably led to weakening of his authority and gradual but irreparable disruption of the kingdom.


It is not only the most imposing building of the Baihamani period, but in its plan and in the general style of its architecture it is a unique monument of its kind in India.

- Ghulam Yazdani, 'Bidar: Its History and Monuments'


The first look from the entrance




The imposing structure of the Madrasa




And another view from a little closer quarter




As it looks from the rear side




Mahmud Gawan, founder of the great Madrasa at Bidar, was a person from Gilan, Persia. So it is no wonder that architecturally it reflects the influences of that region. But what makes it more interesting for us and important to the people studying Indo-Islamic architecture is its ingenuity without dwarfing the original architectural style it followed.


The imperial minaret as seen from the courtyard




The cells used for the purpose of teachers and students quarters




Remainder of the extensive glazed tile ornamentation on the outside walls




The intricate Jali works




We are now deprived of beautiful view of twin minarets as one of them was destroyed by lightning along with half of its front and half of left (southern) wing of the main building. A different version states that the havoc caused to the building was manmade. It states that, after capturing Bidar in the second half of 17th century, Aurangzeb used the Madrasa for twin purpose of powder magazine and barracks for a body of cavalry. And then the inevitable took place – after all, all it needed was a mere spark.


I don’t know why my heart accepts the second fact, but seldom does it care for logic and explanation. As another Bahmani building (tomb of Humayun Shah Bahmani) in close quarter at Ashtur has been partially destroyed by lightning strike, a similar fate for the Madrasa is a ‘height of coincidence’ for me. While the ‘inhuman’ cause concludes the tragic circle that started with the premature demise of its creator at the hand of a short-sighted, irrational and arrogant ruler responsible for the fall of respective dynasties. I am sure every script writer will put his money here, irrespective of historians’ opinions.


Before leaving, I turn back once again to the most attractive part of the building




Another look from the north-east corner




And finally from the rear side




And all of a sudden I find myself among the bush of Yellow Prickly-Poppy (or Shialkata as we call it in Bengali), something I saw after a long time.


A closer look into a lost childhood chapter




And the main attraction got blurred in background




A Walk to Remember:

The walk back from the Madrasa towards hotel through the old part of the town was yet another memorable part of my Bidar trip. It was a matter of joy to stroll through a street with appreciable number of old buildings on both sides, watch the metal polishers working in the roadside shops using the same old polishing methodology, the flower shop owners catering the needs of temple and mosque goers in abundance.


An employee working at one metal-ware store




While the other takes a small break from work




And finally I found the polisher indoor




A flower shop owner in his colorful shop




The eventful day was giving in to a lazy evening as the Sun was preparing for the dip behind the bazaar. And the atmosphere turned euphoric when the cacophony of the market sunk deep into the soulful voice of Muezzin from a nearby mosque as he called out for Maghrib.

*Muezzin: Azan preacher
Maghrib: evening Azan


Next: Afterlife Avenue at Ashtur

I simply have no word to appreciate these snaps Biman. With awesome geometric patterns, foreground/background compositions, subtle play with depth of field, lively portraits, vibrant colors you have shown all the brilliance of a great photographer.

The flower with the backdrop of the defocussed fort is simply exceptional, and inspirational too, I will surely give it a try once in my life

Carry on your excellent work and we all remain spell bound.

@Biman, you need to take back your words from a post of your's on my trip report, just to remind you, I am reproducing it:'You have set a new and very high benchmark in architectural photography in IM.' Sorry Sir, I beg to differ.

Well, I need to mention, the photos I see in your latest post are 'incredible'!! Just cannot take my eyes off them, but your explanation towers above that 'imposing' structure!! My favorite pick, I need to mention - The view of the Madrasa from the rear side! It is just breathtaking.

Edit: I see in a photo (An employee working at one metal-ware store), colorful bangles in the background!! Did you take any photos of those, too? Any shopping done there ? Just curious to know about shopping options for future reference ! If that will be reported in future post then just ignore this edit part.

Thanks a lot for the kind words, Kaushik-Da. I appreciate your ability to constantly cheer me (and obviously others, too) up right from the first day.

Well, Madam - I would like to say something in self-defence. I have a little experience of shooting at temples and caves. I can understand what it takes to shoot there, specially interiors - where light is the last thing that can enter at will. And I think, you have used a P&S camera for capturing them.

Finally, I believe is that the quality of ones own work can be judged from that only. It doesn't get altered depending on what others doing. So I stick to my statement.

I am sorry, but no. I didn't take any photo of the bangles. Nor did we shop there. All I can tell you is what I learned from the owner of that metal-ware shop. He told me that the parallel street has a number of Bidri-ware shops, but that market was closed as it was Sunday. It is close to the Madrasa, within walkable distance.

Beautiful photos Biman, and well composed text to go with it too. Now you should do reports to go with all the earlier photos as well!

Reminded me of Jorge Reverter's earlier thread on Bidar except that he did not post any of his wonderful pics in the thread.

Your yellow wildflowers are Argemone mexicana, and the cream coloured thick mosque columns reminded me of those in the Thanjavur palace!

I might sound repeatative, but the photos are really fabulous, Biman. Kudos!

Any details on the accommodation front Biman?

How many days according to you is good enough for Bidar?

Certainly I will give it a try, once it is over.

It was Jorge who played the most important part in making my Bidar trip happen. I would have mentioned it once I completed the Bidar section. The thread you mentioned and the one on Ashtur were the catalysts along with the pics he posted in IM and in smugmug.com that really prompted me to include Bidar in our itinerary.

Thank you for helping me with the biological name of the flower.

I have never been to Thanjavur, but would really like to be there some day and hope to make it sooner rather than later.

Thank you Sagar. I really appreciate the constant backing you people providing from the very first day.

We stayed there in The Krishna Regency, just around hundred meters from the central bus station. We booked a non-ac double room for 450 rupees (October 2011) and we were more than satisfied with the space, and cleanliness. It was recommended earlier by Jorge, the Bidar Specialist.

Contact Details:
The Krishna Regency
Near New Bus Stand, Udgir Road, Bidar 585 401,
Tel: 08482-221 991-95, 093411 11136, Fax: 08482-228 388

Two full days needed if you want to explore Bidar and Ashtur without hurrying too much. The main attractions being Barid Shahi tombs (including Barid Shahi park), the fort, Bahmani tombs at Ashtur and the madrasa.

Thanjavur is beyond description. I believe you would enjoy all the ancient structures of the Cauvery Delta.

True that constant encouragement through the thread really helps, but even if people do not comment sometimes, dont be disheartened, you should complete it for your own satisfaction.

It is under consideration, specially after you posted that exceptional thread on the region.

Well, honestly what I am getting is total surplus. It's far beyond my expectation. The support and encouragement I have got till now is more than enough to push me hard enough to complete this report.

Previous: A Walk to Remember

Afterlife Avenue at Ashtur:

Next morning we were to catch the 7 AM bus to Ashtur and after that I had a plan to visit Basavkalyan. I was a bit disappointed for not being able to gather any useful information on Jalasangvi thitherto, but that story will find its place in due course of time.


A map showing relative positions of the tombs at Ashtur




The bus to Ashtur started almost in time and within the next 15 minutes we were out of Bidar town. The resting place of Bidar’s Bahmani rulers was visible from a distance, when the road descends from the plateau to plain. Upon reaching Ashtur it was clearly evident why they chose particularly that place for making mausoleums. The bus no sooner gone out of our site than the whole place was free from any anthropogenic noise. But, thanks to plentiful birds, among which I could identify only the most abundant parakeets, there was no place for silence either.


The first look the the mausoleums




Tomb of Ahmed Shah's wife




Ashtur provided me with the best ever opportunity in my lifetime for a leisurely morning stroll. A smooth metal road makes its way amid medieval mausoleums, where once invincible rulers now enjoy their eternal slumber after a strenuous and hectic life. The road does welcome travelers extending its welcoming hand, but the unadulterated surrounding greenery made of naturally growing trees and their subordinates discourage any untoward perturbation from the outside world. It’s a gem of a place, thanks to its failure to find a place in the popular tourist trail.


Tomb of Mahmud Shah-II




Not all of them enjoy similar luck




Misadventure at Basavakalyan:

As the Sun was getting stronger we retreated back to Bidar, had our breakfast and then I set out for Basavakalyan. Prior to India’s independence, Basavakalyan was known as Kalyana, as it was the capital of Kalyani Chalukyas during 1050-1195. Kalyana was ruled by Western (Kalyani) Chalukyas, Kalachuris, Yadavas of Devagiri, Aadil Shahis of Bijapur, Bahamanis of Gulbarga and Bidar, Mughals and finally by Nizams of Hyderabad before independence. Kalyana was renamed as BasavaKalyana in memory of Vishwaguru Basavanna, a great revolutionary who established Anubhava Mantapa (spiritual democracy) during 12th century.

The fort at Basavakalyan is roughly one km from the bus station. It is strategically built as a defence structure in a camouflaged setting, which is not discernible till the enemy is at close quarters. This strategy of locating the fort in naturally camouflaged locations was popular in the forts built in the Deccan.

Reaching at the main gate I found it closed and locked from outside. There is a museum just about 50 meters from the fort gate and it has a healthy collection of sculptures mostly from the Kalyani Chalukya period. Sadly photography is not allowed there.


The closed gate of Basavakalyan fort




The moat and bastions of the fort




A peek into the fort from outside




Another peek from a different side




An employee there told me that the fort remains closed on Monday. Seeing my eagerness to get inside the fort, he most generously offered me a very viable alternative – to come next day when it would be open. I did appreciate his offer, but that was simply impossible. We had already lost a day and had to curtail Gulbarga from our list: Basavakalyan fort managed to remain unconquered.

Temple Hunt at Naraynpura:

The village of Narayanpura is four km from Basavakalyan and has a living Shiva temple from the Kalyani Chalukya period (11th century). In fact, the whole Bidar district is dotted with many temples from that age, most of which are not very famous among tourists.

Anyway the auto-walahs were not very sure of what I was looking for when asked about the temple. But they surely knew where Narayanpura was and I surely knew that the temple was indeed in Narayanpura – that was sufficient for the moment. Reaching Narayanpura, I came to know about existence of two Shiva temples. I was interested in the older one and others seemed to have exactly opposite opinion.


A buffalo beside a retired bullock cart



The winding alleys through the village leading to the temple (obviously the older one) reminded me the route to Daitya Sudan temple in Lonar. And the temple, when I finally reached, was as beautiful as that one – mobbed by sculptures, crowded by carvings but deserted by tourists. I spent there around an hour appreciating and capturing the priceless carvings on the temple walls and pillars and sculptures scattered in the antechamber.


The first view of the temple




Nandi: An integral part of every Shiva temple




A pillar in the antechamber




A stone slab with inscriptions




Carvings on the ceiling of antechamber



A sculpture in the antechamber



And its counterpart on the other side



The Shiva-Lingam in the sanctum-sanctorum



Suddenly a middle aged person, who I came to know later, was the Pujari (worshiper) emerged and was visibly unhappy to discover me taking pictures of the temple. But as I convinced him that it was not for any commercial purpose, he was happy to allow me take his photo, too.


The Pujari (worshiper) of the temple



And his son holding fathers hand



A portion of the outer wall with sculptures and carvings




Another portion



The best exhibition of stone works were on display beside the stairs



A dog resting on the veranda of the temple



One special thing that was hard to overlook was a number of dogs wandering inside temple premise. At every other temple I have visited, I have found dogs are the least welcome of all living beings inside. But I was pleasantly surprised to see something opposite here. From my very limited experience of traveling in my homeland, I have found that from any nook and corner and at any moment, it can stun you with something totally contrasting to your past knowledge and experience.

Next: A Jackpot Named Jalasangvi

All this while we have been talking about the architecture photos, in this lot however, what stands out is the portrait of the priest's son holding his father's hand. What an innocent and shy smile the kid has! Beautiful.

Having said this, it takes nothing away from the architecture shots. The tombs and the fort look stunning.

This is one aspect we enjoyed very much during this trip. We were blessed to meet so many loving, cute and innocent kids throughout our journey. Right from Bidar to Hampi.

This was one of the many refreshing changes we encountered compared to Kolkata. One could surely feel that they were really living their childhood to their heart's content.

Here is another photo of that boy, in a different mood.

Thanks for the other one too, Biman! He really seems to enjoy his childhood, unlike many (unfortunate) urban kids!

@biman, the 2nd photo you have posted of this kid reminds me of my childhood, actually! Me and 2 of my friends would pick up such tyres and after school would drive with a stick (exactly like the kid has in his hand in this photo) about 3 kilometers on the main road (Sampige main road, Malleshwaram - Bangalore) completely believing that we were riding a bike or scooter. Tyre courtesy - My dad had a Lambretta, god knows how much fun we had!