My Pilgrimage to Some Architectural Wonders of Karnataka

I will try my best, so that it can be helpful for future travelers. And that will be the highest reward for me if I can help even a one of them.

Well these IM stalwarts (including you) are the biggest inspiration for me. And I must say, you people have raised the bar so high that makes reading like the sweetest of dreams but writing, horrific nightmare.

Thanks for the appreciation.

@Mithun: Thanks a lot for the encouraging words. And also for your thread on Hampi. I was really amazed when I came to know that you shot those photos with a P/S camera. You along with Naveena and snonymous deserve special mention for that capability.

@Naveena: It's good to know that you are enjoying it. You should be thanked for the herculean effort you put in your Badami thread. Not only because I, like many others, enjoyed it thoroughly but also because you have saved a lot of my work, just as Mithun did for Hampi.

Kshil, there is a lot of merit in what you say to complete the travelogue in one shot. It also makes it a lot easier for the readers who can see it all in one go. Only those who are really interested would bother to keep coming back.


But for that one has to put in a herculean effort like you do to compile the entire text, pics, maps and what not and then start loading in one shot.

There is merit to what Theyyam also suggested in another post, instead of flooding the post with too many pics, just compile a good selection of the best.

It does get tiresome to do it in installments, I felt this acutely while doing my Himachal report. Another case in point is Dinesha who left his brilliant report mid way.

If I ever do another report, I would seriously consider your way Kshil.

In the meantime Biman, waiting for more .......

Biman, please dont forget Sagarneel. His P&S images are perhaps the finest! Look at the clarity of these, his latest on IM:
From Which Bird is This

And of course Sadanand Kamath whose P&S photos are exceptional
Sadanand K's Photos


There may be so many more who use P&S that we are not aware of.

Silly me. How did I forget to mention their name. In fact, considering the quality of their photos it is very hard to find out that they use a P&S for capturing them. As a matter of fact, I am a big fan of both SK and KS. I would consider myself to be blessed if I become a fraction of what they are.

Nevertheless, I knew Sagarneel uses a Panasonic camera (probably FZ35/40, am I right) and I should have mentioned it there.

It was Naveena yesterday and today its your travelogue...i like the casual way in which you have the treated the initial delays and strikes...your second pic of the tomb with rays falling is classic. keep going!

The Bahamani Belongings:

I got back by 8 AM and then we had an enjoyable breakfast with idli and vada in a nearby restaurant and first of the innumerous hyper-sugared tea served in a small stainless steel glasses. Our next destination was Bidar fort.

Strategically built on the brink of Deccan plateau during 1426-32, Bidar Fort is considered as one of the most formidable forts of India and had enormous influence on subsequent planning of medieval cities like Golconda and Bijapur. Surrounded by 5.5 km long defence wall with 7 gates and 37 bastions, the unique feature of this fort is its triple moat defence made by Turkish mercenaries.


An overall view of Bidar fort




Triple moat: A distinguishable feature of the fort




The auto dropped us in front of the ASI museum. The well maintained, clean, gated premise decorated by a tastefully manicured lawn comprises of Tarkash Mahal, Gagan Mahal and Solah Khambah Mosque. The first building most probably was called so as it was built for some Turkish wife of Bahmani Sultan. Gagan Mahal (the heavenly palace), the living place of the royal family, evokes in the visitors mind simultaneously a sense of strength and beauty.


Gagan mahal: The abode of Bahamani Sultans and their family members




Originally the Jam-I-Masjid (principle mosque) of Bidar, Sola Khamba Masjid got its name from the 16 front pillars (Sola=16, Khamba=Pillar) holding the 15 arches for entering the mosque. The superlative prayer hall is divided into large number of aisles by massive circular columns, the central one facing the Mihrab being more spacious. The Mihrab is plain and devoid of any intricate design and ornamentation. It is very contrary to what one expects for a mosque also known as Zenana Masjid (Mosque for use of royal ladies) and was once used by the royal family members.


Gagan Mahal (in front) and Sola Khamba Masjid (on right)




Sola Khamba Masjid as seen from the front




And from another angle




The aisles of mosque, separated by massive columns




And the modest Mihrab




The other prominent sites inside the fort, like Deewan-E-Aam (or Diwan-I-Aam), Takht Mahal, are scattered on the western part, behind the Solah Khambah Mosque in a large open area. They are all in ruinous conditions and locked. So we had to contain ourselves by viewing them from outside only.


Deewan-E-Aam




Takht Mahal: As seen from an elevated position




Proceeding further westward following the trail that local people use, we reached upon a bastion that has a large canon on top with embossed inscription on them that is painted in green. Even being laid under scorching Sun it felt as cold when touched, as the enemy soldiers and invaders would have felt within their spine while facing it. It’s once shell showering barrel is now left filled with benign stones and pebbles, but it still speaks loud about the metallurgical advancement of its own era.


The trail that leads to the bastion. The dome of Sola Khamba Mosque can be seen through the arch




The canon on top of a bastion




And the inscriptions on it




When returning I met Mr. Digambar who helped me to see some parts of the royal complex undergoing renovation work and were inaccessible for visitors. Entering the Mahal complex, I found some interesting small details that he pointed me out. The most intriguing part was the extensive network of earthen water pipes concealed in the stone walls.


A section of earthen water channel under an arched recess




This cavity speaks for the existence of a channel once upon a time




And finally some outlets




Some small patches of exquisitely colorful tile works manifest their presence in extensive proportion during the Bahamani’s heydays. The ornate basalts, both in tact and in pieces scattered over the area, intricate carvings and protruding domes, still adamant against the ravage of time and men, the proud huddle of archways – all of them together make a very smooth and efficient time machine. Even the most unimaginative person could sense the shiny stone flooring under his feet where shrubs had invaded unnoticed.


The glazed tiles works: Remnants of a glorious era




Carvings on the walls




Standing tall among ruins




More domes at a distance




The age old huddle




Suddenly I found that my watch was hardly impressed by anything around and had not stopped even once to look back in wonder. So most reluctantly I had to retract myself.

After having a great lunch at a Panjabi restaurant near the Nanak Jheera main gate followed by half an hour rest, I set out for my next destination. The Madrasa built by the great educationist and diplomat Khwaja Mahmud Gawan.

Next: Tale of A Minister and His Madrasa

Oh yes! I am seriously thinking of having a Kangaroo as a pet now!

Well...sometimes you've to decide between nectar and methi ka saag!

Thanks a lot, but I seriously don't deserve this praise.

I know Biman...and thanks a lot for that. I have found your 'likes' and 'comments' in my IM photos. Thanks for the continuous encouragement, really appreciated.

I am feeling flattered and embarrassed at the same time as my name has been taken along with a genius. Thanks from the core of my heart, snonymous! I'd echo Biman here....I'd consider myself blessed if I even become a fraction of what they are!

You are right Biman...its a Lumix FZ35.

Here we go again. I always knew your love and passion about the stones , architecture and the sculpture(Ever since I was aware of your trip to Elora), and here they reflects in your pictures. I know its long way to go, but I am sure I will revisit Hampi and Badami through your trip report. Your pictures said it all, Biman!!!!!!!

Superb photos again, Biman! Bidar fort and the mosque look amazing!

Thanks for the complement.

Hmmm, this post beats the previous one!!

I observe from your photos that the place is hardly visited by tourists! It must have been a wonderful experience to be there and peacefully stroll about and take photos even as you admire the fort!

Is there any habitation close by? I could see some agricultural activity around the fort.

Biman,

I wonder why you kept us so long before revealing your writing skills? I have long been an admirer of your photographic talents.

Excellent reporting!

Biman excellent writeup and I agree to Naveena second post is even better than the first. I am sure all might have noticed by now, how brilliant the snaps look in the second post where you have linked it to some other site. The Fort pics are simply amazing!!

Mithun, Sagarneel, Naveena and TD: Thank you all for the nice words and encouragements.

Yes, it is not a very good performer in terms of attracting large number of tourists. But people do visit Bidar. Jorge has visited Bidar and I got valuable information on Bidar and Ashtur from his posts.

The fort is at the northern side of old Bidar town. Not at all far from the town. In fact the town starts just by the fort wall in the south and south-west direction. Although I could not locate any house in the north and north-eastern direction.

The experience of walking among the ruins was really amazing. The only negative part was the sudden rise in temperature compared to Kolkata within 48 hours.

Thank you Kaushik-Da. I am really happy to know that you liked it. And also thanks for the suggestion regarding photo attachment. It is really easier and the result is visibly better.

I really feel privileged to have such encouraging comments from you people. It's much more than I could ever dream for.