Hill-Driving Holiday
Chakrata — Hatkoti — Rohru — Thanedar

Interested in a destination that’s superbly far removed from city life, traffic jams, crowded workplaces and the Internet? Yes, India does boast of relatively unexplored locales where there’s space unlimited, and human beings limited. You could drive for hours without passing a single soul. These are lands mostly up north, off the beaten path and over nifty roads carved into the mountains by the British decades ago.

Maruti Udyog brings you a step-by-step guide to drive you to the quaint towns of Chakrata in Uttaranchal, and Hatkoti, Rohru and Thanedar in Himachal Pradesh. Tourist traffic is sparse, which is a boon and a refreshing change from popular crowded travel destinations. These places don’t have the usual clutch of ‘must see’ places or ‘must do’ things. In fact, the drive to these places is often more than half the excitement of the entire holiday. If you love to drive the mountains, this route is custom-made for you. The views all round are majestic and the climate pleasing and rejuvenating.

Thanedar, the fruit bowl of Himachal, is where India’s best apples grow. This quaint town has got an interesting story behind it and sees very few tourists. The locals make visitors feel at home and the clime makes you want to linger on for more days than you originally planned.

Planning for your trip
As the places we travel to this month are very offbeat, the tourist infrastructure is very basic. Do not expect lavish resorts or five-star services. Everything moves at its own pace but the people are extremely friendly and accommodating.

Chakrata, Hatkoti, Rohru and Thanedar can be visited all year round. If you want to get away from the heat of the plains during the summer, then May to July is just fine. If you’ve got plans for a nice, chilled-out holiday with snow and sub-zero temperature for company, then winter is fun. We would especially recommend February with its snows and frozen waterfalls.

Since all four destinations are located in the high mountains, it would do good to carry light woolens during the summer and heavy woolens during the winters.

Car Care
Get your car thoroughly checked and serviced before you set off on your hilly holiday. You will need it to be reliable because there are very few places that you could get things repaired or assistance if something does go wrong. Carry two spare wheels, if possible, and a few spares. Do not forget to tuck in a powerful torch and some candles too.

The Drive
The drive from Delhi takes you along NH1, past Panipat and Karnal, to the Pipal junction. Here we turn right for Yamunagar and from thereon head towards Paonta Sahib.

The first night halt comes up at Chakrata. Traffic on the narrow road to Chakrata is controlled by a gate system at both ends. Hence, traffic is allowed in only one direction at regular intervals. Chakrata is an important cantonment town and photography is strictly prohibited. Regiment guards are posted all over town to ensure that no one pulls out a camera.

The next day's drive is fascinating. Snowcapped peaks regularly crowd the horizon and the roads have fascinating views. The night halt would be either the town of Hatkoti or Rohru (10 km apart).

The final day's drive will have you in Thanedar by afternoon. On your return journey, you could drive to Shimla, which is two hours away, and then to Delhi, seven hours from Shimla.

Caution
With snowfall being a regular feature on the roads after Chakrata, you need to take ample care if you're travelling during winter. Exercise utmost caution when driving on ice, especially ‘black’ ice, which doesn't show its presence. Try to keep off the road shoulder as it is usually slippery.

If you're driving during the night, keep the speeds low. If you need to stretch your legs, keep the car's headlights on full beam and walk out in front of the car. Always keep the headlights behind you so that the area ahead is lit up. The lights also keep jackals away. There are quite a few of them in the hills and they are quite bold too.
In the event of a puncture, especially at night, change the tyre with your headlights on and the car in reverse gear. Keep the engine off but the ignition on. This will keep the reverse lights on and enable you to have a circle of light around the car keeping surprises at bay.

Location Map

Route Chart
Delhi to Chakrata: 351 km
Driving time (approx): 7 hours

Chakrata to Hatkoti and Rohru: 120 km
Driving time (approx): 6 hours

Rohru to Thanedar: 71 km

In and Around Uttaranchal and Himachal Pradesh

Hatkoti
The beautiful Pabbar Valley opens up at Hatkoti (1400m), which is the confluence of the Bishkulti and Pabbar rivers. Hatkoti is a famous temple-village surrounded by paddy fields and attracts a large number of pilgrims and visitors. The temple here is the town’s claim to fame. Called the Hateshwari Temple Complex, this classical Shikara-style temple is dedicated to goddess Mahishasurmardini (locally called Hateshwari). This is dated to the 7th-8th century and in 1885 was given a Pagoda roof. The central image is exquisitely moulded in brass. The adjoining Shiva temple is of the lattice type and has some remarkable wood carvings. It is believed that during the Mahabharata epic, the Pandavas lived here for a while.

A couple of places near Hatkoti worth visiting are:

Accommodation
Temple resthouses and the Himachal Pradesh PWD resthouse. Try staying over at the PWD resthouse - it is a very pretty place.

Rohru
Ten kilometres away from Hatkoti lies Rohru, a laidback town which enjoys pleasant surroundings and walks. Located on the banks of the Pabbar, this stretch of the river has long been on the angler’s beat after trout were introduced to the Pabbar’s waters during 1938-1948. This is an angler’s paradise. During winter, the temperature drops below freezing point and it’s wise to wear heavy woolens.

Nearby places of interest are:

Accommodation
Hotel Chanshal, Rohru, Dist. Shimla (Himachal Pradesh) 171207. Tel: 01785-40661

Thanedar
If ever there was a place where city-zens would want to forget their crowded reality, it is Thanedar. Yes, this little hamlet makes for a beautiful four-day truly restful sojourn, where you remain hopelessly bewitched by the splendour of nature. The area is unbelievably peaceful and it’s the birds which make the most noise! You drive into Thanedar through unending apple orchards, a backdrop of blue hills and yellow mustard fields.

At 8000 ft, nature’s bounty reveals itself: the majestic mountains – some covered in snow and some by deodar trees – while in a gorge, 6000 feet below, flows the river Sutlej.

Thanedar is unabashed apple country and there’s nothing more exhilarating than picking your apple and eating it too. It was here in 1904 that a 22-year-old American, Samuel Evans Stokes came to India initially as a missionary, and later – disturbed by the harsh subsistence economy and the poverty of the locals – began cultivating the Stark Brothers Nursery’s red and golden apples in his 200-acre Barobagh orchard. By the late 1920s, most local farmers had turned to apple farming and soon the apple culture spread all over Shimla district and beyond, bringing prosperity to all.

Stokes’ original house called Harmony Hall, a European-style cottage with Himachali features, still stands next to the Paramjyoti Mandir and the school he built. The temple is a slate-roofed square structure with an encircling verandah, built in Pahadi style. Stokes built the temple after converting to Hinduism in 1932 and changing his first name to Satyanand. He was also the only American to participate in the Indian freedom struggle and was imprisoned by the British in the Lahore Central Jail in 1921.

Accommodation 
Banjara Camps’ Orchard Retreat
One kilometre before Thanedar market lies the Orchard Retreat. Run by Prakash Thakur, this retreat is a part of Banjara Camps and Retreat (also at Sangla, Tabo, Chail and Sultanpur). This beautiful stone building was constructed in 1959 and has recently been renovated.

You don’t need to visit Switzerland for an alpine holiday — you’ve got it all here. The duplex farmhouse has four rooms on both the ground and first floor that are let out. The one on the extreme left as you come up the stairs is perfect - a spellbinding view with snowcapped peaks, heavy-with-apple orchards on the slopes, and a glimpse of the Sutlej as it cuts its way through the valley is all yours for the asking.

The cosy rooms are clean, bright, spacious and well equipped. All have attached toilets with running geysers which makes bathing a very comfortable affair, especially when the temperature drops drastically during winter.
You won’t get gourmet food but the local cook’s dishes are guaranteed to leave you feeling satiated.

The room rates are Rs 1,000 per person per night (inclusive of all meals). For more information, contact Banjara Camps & Retreats in New Delhi at +91-11-26861397 or e-mail banjara@vsnl.com
http://www.banjaracamps.com