A journal of India, starting NOW!

A journal by Wazen, one of our own IndiaMikers. Wazen had kept an ongoing journal of his travels around India, which we promoted to an article. Enjoy!

Posted on January 15th, 2006. 

Aloha Everyone!

My dreads speak to me...
they tell me two things....

First, dont get lice, because the poverty and dirt is overwhelming..
Second, we gota keep them knotty dread locks dancing!...

After 24 hours by plane,
and 48 hours without sleep,
I wander alone into the New Delhi Airport...
Prepared with the LP and IM’s good advice,
it takes only 10 minutes before almost getting ripped off!!!

First mistake: I almost changed my money for a 2.5% surcharge!
Second Mistake: I almost paid double at the wrong pre-paid taxi booth!
Stick to the LP as the official ones are listed...

Well I get my cab, and the driver wants my reciept right off the bat! I know better than to hand him over his pay BEFORE we get there, but it turns out he really needed it for the checkpoint leaving the airport.. Okay.

So there are two people in the front seat,
and we excahnge laughs and conversation for about 20 minutes of the 1 hour journey to my hotel (310rs). Suddenly he tries pulling the classic "Majnu ka tilla to far, not in Delhi", and im like "I paid for it, please take me there"...

So a few minutes later the two men in the front seat are like "we are lost, lets go to this information center".. Already I know BULL$HIT!!!!!

So I say "whatever you need to do", smile, and play the game...

At 12 am we pull into a side street that looks like something from "City Of God".. There were NO people, dirt roads, a BON FIRE in the middle of the road!!! I head two gun shots from the distance.. it could have been a backfire, and the two men assure me its "A Hindu Festival"...

They step out of the cab, im ready to throw down if they try to jack me.
He asks me to step out of the car, and leave my bag in the car.. I didnt want to, but I just wanted SLEEP. They were both out of teh car, so I figgured no big deal, they cant have the time to hop in the taxi and run away with my stuff..

I WONT enter the office.. Im keeping an eye on the Taxi.
After 10 minutes and some conversation, it appears he really was lost.
The office manager hops in the car and actually escorts the cab driver to help direct him! When we get there, we wander the back roads of Majnu Ka Tilla looking for the Guuest House..
There were No people, dark alleys, and a little sketchy.

He refused to come into the hotel. I take it was a good sign, he wasnt trying to get commision! I thank him, and try to offer him some Rupees for a tip. He kindly refuses many times, and insists that he visits me tomorow with his own car!! At precicely 9:00 AM.

I found a new friend..

The hotel didnt have my single room for 250rs. They had a double for 350rs. Great, whatever, an extra $2..... I took it anyway..

A nice man, who is another IMer who wishes to remain annonymous for some reason (but mentioned me yesterday!) was sitting in the waitign room. With long hair and a beard I didnt hesitate to talk to him...We agreed to meet for breakfast downstairs in the morning..

I found another new friend!

That night I didnt know how to work the showers,
the lights didnt work,
I took a cold shower in a dark bathroom and fell asleep.

Breakfast is served, and it was good and cheap. My "information office indian friend" shows up to greet us a little late. We talk, and my new friend and I follow the man into his car, where he takes us for a drive. After stoping at his office, and waitng around for a while, he finnaly takes us for the MAIN REASON we agreed upon.... To "keep them knotty dread locks jumping" If you know what I mean

So I finnaly get my head straight!!!! Praise Jah!

He was trying to make an honest buck, and befriend us into a deal, but there was no pressure, and he was really cool. We end up parting ways with a smile and a handshake...

I almost died five times on the Rickshaw back...
My "annonymous" friend and I are laughing the whole ride at the sheeer excitement of almost hitting everyone and everything!!!

Really, in Delhi, Road lines mean nothing, its all about the horn. Horns take precedent over road lines....3 lanes are somehow 5-6, and somehow it actually works out!! I cant get it!

This is great. We get some good lunch, and take a little walk, taking it easy for my first day. Food here is so cheap. I am eating GREAT FOOD for $1-2 a meal!! Its amazing!

After lunch some guy in an alley approaches me and asks if I wana buy some Hash... I am sketchy about it, and actually ended up getting ripped off for 50rs!!! It wasnt real, it was like, gummy bears and tar... hehehe..
Whatever, I lost a buck! HAH!

The offers for Hash and weed here are HORRIBLE. People are trying to sell me actual grass/weeds calling it marijuana! Its so pathetic, yet funny to see packaged weeds from the side of the road!..

My frist day ended wonderfully, after a brief call home for 5rs a minute, and a nice conversation with my friend, I hit the sack. That was day 1 in India!!

Day 2 is here, and im getting the hang of it. I LOVE IT HERE!
I kept with my friend most of the time, and we didnt yet see any real "tourists sites" like the Red Fort, etc...
But rather enjoyed eachothers company and indulged into the culture that was more interesting than a mere "tourist attraction"....

Walking around lost in Delhi is FUN!! We walk all over Counaught Place, eating at cool places, checking out the scene. We see only a handful of westerners.
Some homeless, legless man gets dragged down the road by his torn ratty clothes, I wonder what he did to deserve that..
Cows, Pigs, Monkeys, Goats, Dogs, MANY DOGS, homless and wandering puppies out number the people who live on the street.
The poverty is disguesting, and yet its so in your face, its amazing.

Touts and Begging are not as bad as played out.
A few here and there...
I roll up my sleeve and expose my tattooed arm.
I simple raised hand, with my tattooed arm, is a better "NO" than saying "NO" a thousand times. My tattoos are truely the intimidation that keeps them away. And also the facination that keeps people staring at you with interest.
My Pierced cheeks trip everyone out, yet a simple smile usually draws one from those who stare (everyone). People are very friendly and interested.
The true meaning of Irezume is perpetuated here in India, as it is in Japan.

Today I sit here at 6pm at an internet cafe,
with my "annonymous"(sp?) friend from IM,
and finnaly get to express my thoughts the best way I know how..
Writing!!!

I still dotn know what to do, where to go, where I am going to sleep tomorow! But I know deep in my heart that everything is cool.

Posted on January 16th, 2006.

A short trip into Old Delhi started with a little dissapointment today,
as the Red Fort is closed on mondays!!

Since I was in Old Delhi, a little walk around the narrow back alleys seemed like a great idea.......Oh man........
About two hours went by and I called it quits. It was a maze of chaos, for lack of a better expression...Thousands of people moving along with mopeds, shops with fuel generators out side thier store, polluting with exhaust that cant escape the narrow walkways between the buildings of Old Delhi...
I had to hold my stomach from throwing up when the exhaust fumes hit me like taking a drag off a nasty stail ciggerette made of oil...

Barginging is half the fun!!
My annonymous friend told me yesterday "Its your turn to get us a rickshaw for 50rs", when everyone wanted atleast 100rs. It wasnt easy, but it was great training for my solo adventure into Old Delhi.
We parted ways today, as he is going up north where its freezing cold!
It took quite a while to figgure out what I want to do with my 3-5 months here, though as of 6:00am tomorow, im off to Fathepur Sikri!! (sp?)....

The pollution and noise tore this hawaiian-country side boy apart. After four nights and three days in Delhi, I can really start to appreciate the Majnu Ka Tilla section of Delhi, especially the mellow Tibetian Collony, and my Wongdhen House which was nice enough to keep accomadating me day after unplanned day! One cool thing about this Hotel is that payment is based on the "honor system"... I didnt pay a dime for three nights, until I finnaly offered to make good!

The food here in great and cheap. I fell in love with the Mango Lassi’s and the Vegetarian Spring Rolls. All meals are great, fullfiling, tasty and exotic...
Tibetian food is similar to Chineese, yet apparently different in its own way that you must experince your self!
I have yet to pay $2 or more for an entire meal!

Well today I down graded my room to 200rs for a double with shared bathrom and no TV. I accidentally blew up thier surge protector with the wrong voltage, and luckily, my brand spankin new IPod ($400) survived. Offering to pay for the damage, they just kept smiling and declining my offer... What nice people!

The train to Agra leaves at 7:15, about 30 minutes away from my hotel.
I needed something a little more quiet than Delhi, and it definately aint Agra, so Fathepur Sikri is my new home for 2 days. First day I will walk around the place, check out the old ruins, etc....
Second day I will head East, only 1 hour by bus, into the Rajasthan Boarder town that starts with the letter "B" (sorry guys).
After the second night in Fathepur Sikri, its an early morning trip to Agra to see the Taj Mahal, and then BOOKIT FAST by train down to Gwalior...

Seems like I will just end up winging it after all. Though I did call a guest house in Fathepur Skiri a day in advanced to make sure..(10rs at an internet phone booth, 3rs per minute). Alone with a sence of adventure, this place has a grip on my heart that piviots between excitement and uncertainty. 

Posted on January 22nd, 2006.

Aloha Everyone!! Namaste!!

Its been almost a week since my last post, India has me trapped within all her chaos and beauty...

About $10usd got me from my hotel in Delhi to my new hotel in Fathepur Sikiri. And my new home? Hotel Ajay!

Fathepur Sikri was just what I wanted, but I had to search hard for it, and what I found was very special. Ariving around noon or so, Ajay was waiting at the bus stand to greet all the new comers to his town. Showing me a decent room for 100rs a night, it was a bargin and a half, private bathroom and hot water ina bucket.. Not to mention the roof top views of the ancient ruins and fort that towers above the town...

Time to get dirty and walk around! Touts coming from each direction surrounding the main enterance to the ruins, I quickly found a side path and went on my own little adventure! Walking behind the ruins was incredible, and without paying a single ruppe to visit only *one* out of many ruins, there was still so muc exploring to do, for free!! It seeme silly to charge an enterance fee for a single ruin, when there was MUCH more you can explore for free... After a mile of walking around this ancient place, some construction workers hailed me from the path, and offered me my first Bidi! (an Indian Ciggerete made from rolled up leaves). None could speak english well, though the many workers understood a simple smile and Namaste gesture, so we instantly became friends. After my ciggerete burned down, they went back to work, so I continued my exploration.. Soon a small kid came across my path and I offered 10rs to take me on a tour of this little town on the outskirts of the city... Suddenly I realized that I have found REAL India...

Apparently, Fathepur is the ruins, and the sprawling streets that law below are nothing more than a bazzar. Sikri is the little town that lay 1 mile away from Fathepur, on the outskirts of the ruins. This is where the kid took me.
It seemed rarely a single tourist every comes to thier town. The stench of fecies and urine had yet to overwhelm the excitement of finding something off the beaten path. Soon enough there were about 20 children of all ages following this "strange looking westerner".. Some of the adults started to brag about something that slaped me with a reality check..

"look!! Light! Electricity! 11,000 watts! We have light!" This small, poor village of Sikri was so proud of thier new electrical lines, it was apparent that until a few months ago, this old town was in the dark ages..

My 10 year old guide can speak fluent english and Hindi. Not only that, he could undermine your typical used car sales man with his money making antics! For such a young kid to be so ambitious, I was amazed, envious, and startled when our adventure came to an end and he said "so now you give me ruppes!"... I was like " I just gave you 10rs!"...
"No, they took it from me (his brothers/friends)".......
A look into my wallet revealed my situation with only a 50rs note..
After a sigh and another reality check, I handed him the 50, thinking how for the last hour, a smile never left my face, and this kid surely deserved a single dollar! "alright kid, here you go, Namaste!"

Man I am tired after walking all those miles, its time to retire on the roof-top resturant of Hotel Ajay.... The menu is handed down, and something catches my eye.... "Special Lassi??"... oh yeah!
"please sir, make it weak, I dont wana throw up"...
An hour later I was floored, and ready to crash, but not before a good meal and a nice conversation with the 100th Australian to cross my path since Delhi..

The next day, an adventure to Barantpur, a Rajasthan boarder town a hour away from Fathepur Sikri with a bird sanctuary...Upon arival for this day trip, I was lost... A cycle rickshaw offered to take me to the Bird Sanctuary for 20 rs...
"Too much, 7rs", I said, and proceded lost down a strange road...
The old man peddling his old cycle riockshaw ran after me and agreed. I though to myself, its probably around the corner anyway, so hes getting a good deal... The old man was tired and around 60 years old. His legs were thinner than my arms. From the look in his eyes, I could tell his life was harsh. What was supposed to be around the corner, turned out to be half a mile away... I felt so horrible, I tipped him double what I paid!
Pennies to me, a days wage to him...Its amazing, yet hard hitting.

My butt is sooo Sore after renting a crappy bicycle for 25rs to peddle around the park. The chain fell off 5 times, and it became more of a hassle to have this pice of junk between my legs. While peddling around, I came across a nice Indian boy around my age, who offered me some wild berries. They were exotic and tasty, and after a conversation, he escorted me to find a python, which was amazing to find in the wild! Looking for a good time more than money, he took me to his village that lay betyond the 5 foot walls boarding the Bird Sanctuary. Then off to a temple where some old men take care of the stray park animals. A young Antelope was among the many animals there, and kept licking the salt from my sweaty shins. "Hungry" he says, as a bottle of milk was handed to me. Feeding a wild Antelope was pertty cool!

Five hours of adventuring through this massive place, it was time to call it a day. Ariving back at Fathepur Sikri, I decided to walk the bazzar and check out the scene. Suddenly a man working behind the counters of his store stopped me, like everyone does, in fascination of my cheek piercings, and strange hat used to hold my long dreads. I asked him what kind of buisness he runs, and he replied "chemist"..
"do you have anything to help with sleep??" He handed me 2x 10mg Diazepam and asked for 5rs!! What a deal. Being invited behind the counter for some chai, Bidi’s, and a conversation, the next 2 hours were awsome.

And then it hit me as it still does: Indians see the world as I do! That god is everything, and nothing seperates us, we are all brother and sister. Never before in my life, have I found someone who understands exactly what I belive. And whats even more amazing, every indian who converses with me about god, feels the same way. No wonder how everyone lives in harmony, within the chaos that is India!
It was now time to eat, and I had to part with my chemist friend. A short trip bck to the roof top of Hotel Ajay for some dinner, another Special Lassi, and my new sleep aids brought me to the a state of tranquility which allowed me to marvel at the ruins above, for hours!!!

For the second night in this wonderful town, I again heard some strange chanting coming from somewhere within the Bazzar.. I HAD to find out what it was, and where it was coming from.
The night was late, around 9:00pm and the streets relatively calm...
My tranquil state forced me to roam the streets in search of this chanting...
Soon about 20 young men, of all ages, approached me. They took me within the Temple and showed me how to pay my respects. Walking down some stairs, a group of 5 or so devotees were chanting and banging on thier musical instruments.. Supprised to see a foriegn face, the greeted me with smiles, and soon I was handed some religios food, rice-like sweets made for the temple. It tasted sweet and delicious.

After exiting the temple, we sat on a curb across the street, still surrounded by 20 young men who couldent get over this "stange looking traveler". They gave me a pack a Bidi’s as a present, and after smoking a few something wierd happened...

Two men on a motorcycle pull up fast and smack one kid in the head. The entire crowd runs in every direction heading down the dark alleys. I am left standing alone after a few seconds, no good byes. The men on the motorcycle look at me, point to my hotel and say "go now". I was later told by a kid, the men were police.

Posted on January 22nd, 2006

Well its time to part with Fathepur Sikri, and head to Agra for a day to see the Taj Mahal, the most cliche attraction any India-traveler could over pay for...

A small Hotel called the Shanti guest house offered AWSOME rooftop views of the Taj. I regret paying the $20 to get into the Taj, because the rooftop views were actually more amazing than admiring this creation from up close. Well you cant come to India and not see the Taj Mahal....
I stood inline for 10 minutes and was turned away for having an IPOD!!! Can you believe that!? I had to run back to my hotel and put it somewhere safe!
Well, the Taj was closed tomorow, and closed for half the day today, so you could imagine the build up of tourists!! Honestly, there were so many tourists, the stench of feet overwhelmed the beauty of the Taj, that is until sunset when the crowd dispersed, and I was left alone, infront of the Taj, staring at it for hours...
I couldent help to wonder one thing...
How could any piece of A$$ be so good?!?!

On the way back to my hotel, a man approached me with another question reguarding my dreads. He said "come visit my head shop" ... For the first time I followed a tout. It was a cool little place with jewelry and some Indian pipes. Suddenly the man puts on the counter, many different types of hash and opium. I wont go into any more detial, but for ther record, Bob Marley is more my Idol than Kurt Cobain, get my drift??

Everything worked out wonderfully, meeting many travelers from all over the world, many cool locals and decent over-priced Agra food.
A good nights sleep and then its off to Gwalior!!!

Again, without booking in advanced, I showed up in Gwalior and found a nice hotel for $9 a day.. The day was late, too late to visit the fort, so I wandered alone the streets of Gwalior... Suddenly two men on a motorcycle pull up and ask, "you want ride??".. I reply "no rupees"...
"Free ride, come!". I agree knowing they will take me to thier uncles or mothers shop for some overpriced stuff I dont want, but what the heck!

Turns out I was wrong! They were delievery boys just wanting to show me a good time. Three of us on a tiny motorcycle, we weave in and out of cars through the less-traveled parts of Gwalior. I was the ONLY westerner there for the next 2 days, so you can understand when they pull over at some side street and yet another crowd of 20 people surround me, silently, with interest.
One man says to me "Some people no good, they tease you, you should go".
"I dont speak Hindi so I dont care! Its okay though everyone is my brother and sister". He relays the message to the crowd and they lighten up a little..
After parting ways with the crowd, and another hour of riding on the back of this small bike making deliveries, its time to go back to the hotel and rest.

The second day in Gwalior, and I decide to lighten my 48L bag a little, to start the day. First I had to find a store who sells a cloth-bag, then I had to find a shoe-polliser with a needle and thread to sew it up, THEN I had to fidn another store to seal the seams with wax as a security issue!! Luckily, a nice man who had his own motorcycle took me around for free, just to help me out! He knew I spoke no Hindi, and felt bad, so for the next hour he took his time to help. So much Aloha, so much love...And wanted nothing in return, not even lunch!

After an hour of going from shop to shop, just to properly pack my mail, the grand total to ship back two pant and two shirts:
1,300 rupees!! After all that hard work and time, we all decided it was better to just carry it around with me after all... ARGH!
I just hope this Marmot can handle three more months of being stuffed to the max, I swear it looks like its going to pop or tear, and that wouldent be good!

Well we got half the day left, time to check out the fort! A quick rickshaw there and immediately I was in awe. It was so beautiful. The museum offered 1000+ year old rock sculptures everywhere. So incredible, so intriguing, especially a particular buddhist carving dating back into the B.C. era. Just amazing.

The journey from the museum to the top of the fort was a long up hill walk, zig-zagging through the face of the cliffs that rest below the ancient building.
Some men, again about 20, stop and surround me with interest..
They ask me to join them in a circle and hand me a pipe filled with tobacco and ganja. Watching the way they smoke is interesting. Their lips NEVER touch the pipe, instead they make a chamber with thier hands, tight enough to draw BIG hits. After a few tokes, and many smiles, it was time to contuine my adventure!
Within 100 paces I almost died from the sheer beauty of the fort resting upon the cliff. Climbing to the top some young teens ask me for a ciggerete, and I was scolded when the man who smoked the Ganja with me pulled up and said "NO, too young!" I applogised and shook my finger at them, we all laugh and continue our little personal trips. "ooops!"

Walking around the fort was easy. A long road journeys abouit a mile around the place, and soon I came across a Sikh Temple. A man with a long beard and a red turban approaches me and asks if I would like to stay a few nights for free, with free food, to learn about thier religion. We converse for a few hours, share some chai, and learn much from eachother.
He tells me the Sikh religion is about three things: Brotherhood, Equality and Harmony. It was apparent the connection between buddhism and Sikhism, and we both agreed, again, on the same matter:
Each and every living thing shares the same soul, an ant, an Elephapnt, a cow, a human, we are all the same, from the same god, and for that reason we must alwayts recognize the ever-persence of our universal connection. Brotherhood, equality and harmony.

At this time I knew, in a past life, I was born in India.


That night, yesterday actually, I drank some chai with ice cubes, and ate a slice of raw carrot. It was a night full of vomit and sickness. I couldent even
make it to the bathroom, so I put a towel on the floor and dry heaved all night long. Even water couldent be held down. After a small sip I would toss it back up. I was in hell, and worried about dysentery. This morning, however, I amazingly felt a little better, and actually handled the 3 hour bumpy buss ride to my new home, Orcha! Still yet, I can only stomach Bananas, and have yet to eat a real meal although its now 8:30pm...
We’ll see where tomorow takes us, and thanks for reading my posts everyone!

Aloha! 

Posted January 27th, 2006.

Aloha everyone,
Thank you for all the replies.
I dont know where to start....

India demands like no other time or place in my life, a positive attitude, but most of all, Inda demands letting go...
All attachents to cleanliness I once had needed to die here, in order for me to survive. Money, time, life it self, India will face you with...
And now where to start...

After gwalior, a nice change of pace at Orcha was great. A little cheaper and laid back, beautiful scenery, your typical little country town... During my 3 nights there, at the Gapati guest house, the battle between fun and sickness went on throughout the early mornings and late nights. Besides the temples, a few nice conversations with various people, and yes even your typical just "bullshitting" at times with others, one thing that stood out was the concept of our famous "love hate relationship" with India.

Love for the food, culture, history, although at times the food was played out (curried out), the temples became just another building, and all that your left with is yourself, standing alone wondering what am I doing here in this world, let alone India...
Love for always having somone to talk to, and hating never being alone when you want to... Love and Hate is an understatement: India surfaces every emotion, overwhelming the sences with its glory, and its pain.

Loneliness stoodout in my mind, in Orcha. One day I went for a walk, escaped all elements with my music, and found a beautiful river laced with massive marble rocks, a picture perfect natural beauty. takinga shirt off, alone and secluded, a nice rock made a perfect bed for a mid-day nap. A little ciggerate, a little smoke, and it was nice...
Although a lack of food, delhi belly, and an upset stomach was my main concern, perhaps the adventurous sprit within gave the strength to get away that very morning... Sharing a ride with another pair of tourists into jansi, the ultimate destination Kajuraho was still another 5 hours away. Packed full wth people, and unable to even lay back in my own chair from the overload of standing passengers, for a while it was hell...Hands holding my face, Ipod about to die, the few extra Diazepams given away like candy didnt even help for this sepcial occasion....Until his point, leaving india was the main thought flowing through my mind, and it was about to get worse....
A family sitting next to me was as plesant as my fresh change of pants after 2 weeks, that is until thier baby threw up on my legs. Nice baby throw up on my fresh pants and shoes, packed into a buss of hell, rocking violently with a upset stomach, this non-tobacco smoker chainsmoked 2 ciggeretes right then and there. To top it off, the mother had no appologetic gesture, or care.
(buying cheap ciggeretes are good friend makers).

By the time the buss landed in Kajuraho, A hound of touts, unprecedented, the most crazy wolfpack I ever dealt with, was Indias cruel joke.

A thousand "what can I do for you" touts, could only arouse sarcasm from my tired mind... Aloud after a pause "Give me a gun so I can shoot my self in the head". Within sight a toustis couple seemed like refuge, so I ran to them, with lies to the unrelenting touts "im with them, we have a hotel, we KNOW how to walk there". The couple, understandably, was cool about it...

Hotel Surya was my refuge after that ordeal. THough within an hour and lunch (yes with the same pants), the journey REALLY began...

A local man around 24, tall and medium build approached me. At the time his antics were not understandable, and yet two days later, i sit here, wondering where the last 2 days went, why I spent so much money, and what does this all mean...

Apparently now, he was a buiness man, whos encounter was like no other. Wating and hanging out through lunch with my new tourist couple-friends from the bus, I gave him the respect to hang out once the meal was over.
Back to his friends shop, where we hung out for hours smoking chillums.
They present me with free dinner, eating wild goat for the first time, lots of smoke, and lots of chai.

"Tomorow is Independance day, lets meet at 8:00 am, I have a car, Ill take you around to the school and we can see a parade in the old town, just pay for gas"...

"why not"...I replied..

Up early and he was waiting outside the hotel. The parade was a few miles away, and very cute to watch the school children march and yell. From there to a school where the dance was cancled becasue someone stole thier sound stystem the night before. We hung out with the teachers for a while, smoked some chillums on the roof and ate some sepcial Independance day sweets. Everything was cool and accepted, as the children were not around.
After, the dancing instructors, and a few beautiful women started to dance with what speakers they had left, just a small party between the 15 of us there at the time... The dancing went on for an hour, the music exotic and the movements naturally Indian. It was nice

Later that day he offered to help me out a little. Knowing my budget, and my situation, I splurged and bought a personal gift of decent quality from him, for a VERY tourist price (1000rs).
Then my friend, two others and I drove to a distant place, to a beautiful mountain where the villagers farm fruit growing from a huge lake, fruit which I have never seen... Old homely boats roamed the lake, and only a few souls were insight. We sat on some rocks overlooking the nature before us, and passed around the chillum for a while, enjoying the scenery....
Later going out to Dabbas that no tourist would ever find, back road joints with home style cooking, a personal gesture was to buy drinks and food for the four of us, my 400rs gift to them, from the land of aloha. Also another 200rs for some gass
My heart felt big, but my wallet much lighter. None but the gass was asked from me, at this point.
When night came, and knowing my hotel had no hot water this late, they made a bucket for me, and let me use their small toilet room to bathe.

After about 5 more chillum sessions, we called it a night, and I returned to a closed hotel at 12:00am. "oh nooooo".....
Waking up the owner with an unrelenting doorbell for 5 minutes, and after one hundred "im very sorry", it was time to crash, knowing somehow, I managed to spend 1600rs for the entire day, yet experienced something unexplainable....

The next day we agreed to meet up again, walk to some temples, have some fun...
starting the day with a nice chillum session at his "uncles house", he gave me another offer for a more greener present, as the first one was purely black.
Not a bad deal, infact a great deal by Hawaiian standards, I was happy at the 350rs price of this "green gift"..
Although the quality was compareable to some "good yet mexican" insense, it was still the best looking present I came across in India...
(not that it matters but so far, from this man, I have spent 1950rs!!!!)

The times were great, I was having blast and didnt think about the cost. This style of touring around was PERFECT. Everyone knew this man who I walk with, everyone who hears his name from my lips shows me respect, instantly, when he is not around. Touts become friends at the mention of his name. We walked through the backroads, the country side, through some beautiful untouched scenery, behind the old villages, and found temples through paths never-walked by tourists. Avoiding all the hassle in the city, jsut seeing only a few temples here in Kajuraho was good enough, as the experience of it all was even greater...

A shrine to the monkey god was along this path, and we met an old priest whom we smoked many chillums with. BOOM SHIVA!! Sitting on his straw mat, his life was that of a homeless man. My *personal* presents which costed 1350rs where cut in half and shared with all of them, almost as if it didnt belong to me but everyone, and shared even with the man who sold it to me. Many villagers came, we smoked many of my good chillums, and I listened to his religious knowledge through an old book, although he only spoke Hindi. This priestly man who had next to nothing, nothing at all, gave me his Chillum, along with the special rock, formed perfectly as a natural screen, as a present...
Something I wanted to cherriesh for life...
This was a TRUE chillum, and learning to smoke the real indian way is something that touched my soul...

He took his thumb, put it in the ash, and touched my forhead between my eyes, and said a prayer. When it came time to part ways, I handed him a meals worth for my self, for his temple, dandivan, namaste, words from my heart.

"Salawa"..."(lets go)".. My local friend said.
Only a few temples were visited, but each second of this time appreciated, and there was no need for anymore "sight seeing", for being one with many in India has a greater power than any guide book can teach....

As the night approached, it seemed many people of the town knew me, although I didnt know them.. Some on motor bikes would come up..."Your **** friend!, I heard about you!!"... ... the man with the pierced cheeks...

By this time, I needed to be alone and unravel in thought. Although a promise to meet my friend for a last Chillum needed to be fullfilled.
I thought of the good times, the pleasure, the fun, the money that I spent, the people I met and thier ways, the poverty, the value of life, the value of a smile and all that lay inbetween. Then it was apparent. It was time to leave Kajuraho, for in my heart I found what I needed, although there the temptation to stay is strong...So the decision to leave 7 hours from now, at 6 am to varanasi, is the right thing

A last good bye, a last chillum, a last meal with my friend, everything is cool.

Now I sit here, reflecting, and it seems there is an unspoken understanding.
He is a buisness man, and his profession is to hang out, meet tourists, show them a good time, and by doing so, he probably made 1000rs profit. At the same time, he has shown me much hospitality, a great time, and on a personal and spiritual level, I know we connected. On a superficial level, I knew he made from me a months wage....

So what does it matter?... I sit here and wonder, and one of the hardest questions everyone faces in life. What is money when you are happy? What is money when you are poor? but most of all... what is life really worth??...

Posted on January 30th, 2006

Varanasi is crazy, but today, the second day here was pretty chilled...

I think back to Kajuraho,
and remember how my friend walked me through the village and explained how cow shit is smeared around the enterence to every house for two reasons. One was to keep mozzies away..
Thinking back to smoking with the old man at the Hanyuman(sp?) temple...The way he somked was trippy... He didnt use a match or lighter.. He would take a piece of burning wood and place it on the packed chillum to get the cherry started..I remember hating the fact that I was inhaling some crap, and worried to death about gettign lice from him, and his friends there...
That night when packing up to leave to Varanasi at 5:30 am, I broke the chillum he gave me. But it did the trick for the first night here...

Man I havent had a hot shower in days. Last night I took a freezing cold shower because, that seems to be the norm when its too late for a bucket of hot water..Although all hotels but two had hot water for far I havent used toilet paper except for the first few days in Delhi.. Getting used to it...

Bartering at 10:30 pm for a room to sleep in worked a little, for a nice introduction to Varanasi. Claiming it was late and Check out is in like 13 hours the price droped 70rs but, again, no hot water as promised after a nice interegation with emphasis on hot water raining down from the shower head.... God I miss that. heh...

The next day I walked from the bustation area to the ghats, got my bearings straight, and before fidning a hotel got a massage for an hour... The hard wood bech and dirty mat wasnt so bad, and the man cracked my back in ways I didnt know possible.. It was alright, so I gave him only 160rs for it all...Kinda forced me into it but, maybe he could tell I really needed it... It was cool that we didnt negotiate the proce before hand, so the barter was a little more fair...maybe...?

Evenntually found the Alka hotel and they had a basic room which im staying at for 200rs a night.... I ran half naked at 12:00 am into the downstairs shared showers and took a nice cold one, thinking back and lying to myself that im at Ehukai beach, taking a cold shower after a nice bodysurfing session... After im done typing this, I think ill have another cold one

Waking up in the morning and the touts still had me half-dead. Everyone, and I mean EVERYONE HERE, will tout for one thing, and one thing only: DRUGS. Its so crazy I hate it with all my heart. I would think a person like myself would find it rather pleasant, but actually, its to a point where its scarry...On the second night after watching the nightly dancing/chanting ritual on the ghat down the riverside walkway, a man offered a five minute conversation and then some chai, so I said "sure"...
Thinking it would be a nice conversation, it turned out to be, first, a silk shop... Then after saying no, he preseed me like a police officer making a bust, but just the opposite intention, to sell me drugs! Im like "NO I HATE DRUGS HASH IS BAD"....And he kept saying "just look, just look"....

.. I ran. I mean I really just booked it down the alley at full speed. It was just too F**king much for me.

That night, I asked the hotel manager if I could stay out a little later.. he was cool with it...
I went alone to the burning ghats at around 10:30pm, and was beforehand warned many times by many people that "its dangerous at night"..etc...
I got my strength, so it was all good.

Within moments, I was 7 paces away from a burning body. Walkign up slowly, with prayer in my heart and remembering my reason for coming to india: To return to the homeland of the Buddha.
Over a bent rail, there was a cement ledge where a few were sitting. I asked a man sitting there if I could sit next to him. He nodded, and watched my eyes closely, staring at me, as I was fixed on the body burning infront of me. The heat and smoke was almost tasteable, and actually plesant, as one would think the stench of birning flesh is horrible, but the wood makes it actually as plesant as insence..

In the morning a solo travler shared breakfast with me and we decided to check out the university down the road as a peaceful escape. It was pretty cool, and we bargined a cycle-rickshaw for 25rs from the hotel area!

We walked to a botanical garden like place in the university and found a remote pond, where we smoked a few and kicked back, talk story, etc...Found a cool temple and zoned out on the ambience and chanting from the second story..
Ate some Malasa Dosa, a pepsi, and beleive it or not, after four hours, our cycle rickshaw actually waited, against our will and knowledge, to take us back! heh..... Alright, not to bad

Tonight, a few new people and a nice walk to the burning ghats...
I was not showed the same respect, nor able to get close to the fire this time. It was because four other were with me. We were banned to climb the building above, and observe only fropm this place. It was a different feeling from above, and I realized how traveling alone can be really damn lonely, but even more special. The kid who took everones attention as if to "guide" and explain to us what we watch, and the man who claimed his father was being burned, got donations from the other three.
I stood there in meditation and chanted from my heart, a sutra from my church. I knew in my heart not to give money, but to offer prayers, siltently, in respect and awe for the deseaced. This is the real gift to coming to varranasi, to pay respects from the heart, and not from the wallet. I dont know how to explain it. But I feel like sitting there all night until sunrise, chanting for thier souls, because it was very peaceful at heart.

Time for the cold shower and a smoke. I wana say it does suck to have my journal questioned, but I can give a f**k less, honestly, for what you think. Just like the touting hahaha.. But much respect to all, and much love

Aloha everyone.

Posted on February 2nd, 2006

Varanasi Hardcore he was dubbed. The craziest rickshaw driver we ever had the pleasure of escaping death with... Never in my life have we hit people and drove off, scraped cycle-wallahs and drove with a trigger happy road-rage. It was f**king cool man.
Although he got a fat deal from us, and made out well, he was paying off policemen at a few corners. This is only part of the darkside merely mentioned in the guidebook...and just a taste of whats to come...

Reaching Saranath, with my 3 day travel buddy Simon from Denmark, we made our way around the old ruins, temple and stupa..
Three bows are a symbolic gesture for this pilgramage, as tought by the buddhist church familiar in Japan and Hawaii. Perhaps Simon was a little tripped out, though theres nothing like cheap Masala-Dosa’s and a Coke to chillout with afterward!.. Great food for 25rs, cant help to LOVE it!

An hour late to meet Mr. Varanasi Hardcore,
our trip back was twice the fun, and twice the craziness..
Afternoon Rushhour and this dude is tweaking out like a child with a new toy, a rollcoaster ride like no other, you cant help to love the rush!
I wouldent pay an extra rupee, and later found out we got a little ripped off..

Getting lost between the narrow buildings at night can be pretty intense,
besides the pushing of every type of dope imaginable infront of policemen,
and unnoticeable cowshit waiting to shine that nice shoe of yours, we found hevan within a small resturant. Special Lassi? "sure".. Not to bad, with a little fried rice and a wonderful walk back to the hotel...

Simon was crashed out and a few travelers were chilling out so I joined them for a little more to eat.. man the munchies got me! Luckily the food is always good and cheap!..
Laid back, a few overpriced Kingfishers costing more than my room!, and it was time to check out the balcony overlooking the Ghats...
Two couples were playing music, smoking a coulple chillums and having a blast, and as many travlers are open to any invitation, a seat was offered.
The night was getting late, and the chillums burning low..
One beautiful girl, traveling the world for a year to improve her music style, starting singing with one of the most heart-hitting voices to echo across the silent ghats of Varanasi’s night... Unexplainable, sudden to overwhelm my sences, the moment was nothing less than a trance like state...Eyes closed, perma-grinned, nodding away to the ambience of this crazy place...The experience was unreal, and like all things in life, too quick to end.

Supprisingly, the table behind had six other travlers, up and awake in the early morning, 1:00am. People from all over, of all ages.. A samoan traveler around 24, a few men over 40, an Israeli woman, and a few others. Pictureperfect in India, how everything and everyone seems to loose thier boundries of who they are, and adapt as one into the lifestyle: India. As different as we are, knowing moments like this at home wouldent exist with typical stigma of western culture.. We smoked a chillum, some of them partaking for the first time in years, and as the silent moment progessed into the high, the moment was nothing less than perfect.. Jokes and talking for another hour and it was time to end another day in Varanasi....

The next day, Simon and I went to the train station to book a ticket out of here. I was told to just show up at 5:15 by two of the LP listed official agencies, and the ticket will be free and unreserved...?
An hour wait, we booked it out of there into the chaos, again, only to stumble across the same Hole-in-The-Wall style bhang Lassi shop, found the second day here...
Pulling up to the place, picture this:
A cross-eyed gay man, with an uneven face, dressed in female-worn down clothing, fully drag queen style, was dancing infront of the shop! High out of her mind, everyone was just cracking up with laughter, it was the funniest thing in India yet!! I had to throw down two rupees.. to I handed it to her as she danced infront of me...
Then suddenly she turned around insulted, swore at me in Hindi, handed me about 20rs in change, and walked off like a woman with a vegance!! Non stop laughter, I had to drop into the Bhang lassi seat and take my order..
Handed the crazy queen her rupees back, and told the shop owner "make it strong this time, really, really strong".. and watched the procedure..

Two HUGE scoops of green goop, this 5th Bhang Lassi in India was unbearable! It was that strong, but I drank the whole thing... and from here it gets nuts....

An hour later Simon and I browsed around from some supplies, and got lost in the dark alleys. The afternoon was getting cold, and clothes were thin. Soon a clean cut man presented me with an offer, and it was very very sketchy. Running back and forth, "wait here, wait!" with evil eyes, it was the worst buisness deal in history, so we booked it down the alley infront of a resturant..
Running after us, Simons tailor from a silk shop, an honest man, rushed us inside after watching the situation. Luckily he was standing there in that alley, away from his shop.

The Bhang was getting heavy, an the effect was going up, and up...

"that man" he said, "He wil sell you stuff, then turn you into the police, then the police bribe you, and they split the profit"...

.... And Im still going up an up...

"the only real buisness men deal in thier homes, or shop, not on the street".

I didnt care already, I was barely able to speak, and not able to finish the food I just orderd. Telling both of them, "Varanasi is NEVER the place I will trust with this buisness, its too insane and dangeous. It shouldent be like this, its really just, for lack of a better phrase "f**ked up". And insisted over and over..

But this tailer, besides trying to sell silk from his shop thats far away, then pushed me to buy hash from him!! I couldent even say no.. I just ignored him. Simon spoke for me, and the man knew I was flying high, so he kept on with his touting, for silk, for drugs, as I tried to eat and keep calm...
"Are you okay? Are you okay?" He kept asking me, only making my experience THAT much worse. "come buy from me, no police"..
Then and there it was settled, I love Varanasi in many ways, but im leaving the day after tomorow....And even the soft-drug scene here is just NOT WORTH ANY OF YOUR TIME IN VARANASI.

Though the Tailor offered to escort us back to the hotel, and took us through the most vile, insane, unworldy tunnel through a building between the Ghats.
I couldent even breath this small tunnel, barely 6 feet high, and a few feet wide.. There was a cow in there, and an old lady who looked like she had leprosy.. The air was so horrible, it was like raw sewage, not oxygen... Simon had to take a picture, and as I tried to bare with him, egged him to go after one shot... Dryheaving on the way out, never will I forget that moment, or that place..

It was 6:00pm and I wasnt there anymore. Up to my room, straighty to bed, no cold shower, and when the morning came to rise, the time was 9:00AM.

Today is the day to just chill out. Simon left early in the morning, so I walked the ghats, and hung out alone for a while. No one seeemed to really hound me, as it feels like touts and begging are just rolling off my shoulder for the first time. Sometimes a simple look and they know already to not even start with the "HELLO SIR", and it seems im getting the hang of this place..

Funny how India will open your heart, and make you colder than ever at the same time.

After visiting a chemist for the same sleeping aid as mentioned above, for the best price so far 10 x 10mg for 25rs, I can sleep well for the next few days, and my wallet is happy. Good thing to have for traveling endlessly by bus and train! But first 5 chemist turned me down.
Later on a boat ride and a beer, and eventually I came across a buisness man on a boat who I am proud to say, haggled on par with my newbie tactics, and I didnt get TOO ripped off this time. (first present: 2000rs!, second present: 900rs!, This present: 350rs!) Quality of my new personal present is questionable, and im not that thrilled. But its good enough, and I give thanks to Jah, for Jah did provide when I finnaly gave up. For now, and for much time to come, im leaving the scene alone, for it has taken too much effort, risk, and MOST of all, I have enough to share with new friends!!!

The lifestyle of traveling alone in India, has changed my perspective on life, even after this short time.
Besides Delhi, I havent had a real hot shower or any toilet paper. The squating is becoming more routine than effort, and even though I live much more poor than back home, its still luxury compared to those on the street: Bathing, swimming, and yes even drinking the Ganges water, sleeping on dirt, barely a meal to eat...
I am grateful for what India has taught me, and what I have given up for being in India.

Well its an all nighter till 4:00am when I leave for the train station, then to Gorakaphur, and transfer straight to Kushingar where Buddha died. (sorry for the spelling). And now the Spritual journey really starts, for half of this adventure is actually a pilgramage!

Bihar is next, and many have warned against Bihar right now. Some locals straight up told me "Forget it, its too dangerous at the moment"..
But Faith and Goodwill prevails in my heart, and as India keeps teaching me, "let go, dont worry, everything is cool".

Aloha everyone.

Posted on February 13th, 2006

Inernet access has been minimal during the last 10 days since posting. Inda is tightening its grip around my heart and daily life, more and more as the time passes by all to quickly. For this, my only regeret is not posting sooner, as the experences are beyond the boundries of description, detailed memories fleeting as each day passes, remarkably, leaving an everlasting impression on my soul.
As if the hand of India touched my heart, and its fingerprint permanently consecrated through our coupled virtue. (It is a pilgrimage after all!)
At the moment three hours of typing are paid for...now where to begin!

An all nighter over the ghats of varanasi was a perfect gooddbye. Alone with the silent night, resting on the balcony overlooking the ghats, the smell of the burning dead and its sweet perfume scented wood, A chillum and only 4 hours until 4:00 am...
The night was beautiful, monkeys joined me from the railing above, and soon started throwing a little poo at me, hissing to scare away my peaceful presence. Laughing siltently and switching chairs, they soon fell asleep, and as time passed by quickly, the hotel staff was woken up and forced to unlock the front doors, hesitantly, to let me into the dark alleys of Varanasi’s city...

Electricity in part of the city was down. Without a flashlight, finding the main road, and avoiding cow shit would be impossible. Knowing the dark energy thats everpresent in Varanasi’s ghat-side, I was prepared for a little excitement around every corner!
Releif struck to find the main road with 1 and 1/2 hours till train departure, a safe time incase I need to walk the distance.. At this earrly hour, the main road was empty.. Off in the distance, a Chai Stand where many cycle rickshaw drivers were gathering for a morning tea.
"who want to take me to the train station for 30rs?" (3x the normal price!)
Everyone was hesitant.. But one old man agreed, on the condition that we drink chai first. Amen for Breakfast!

Without street lights, how could this old man even see the road that he peddled me through? The air was cold, pitchblack with an erie atmosphere, potholes unseen and the journey rough. The man detures into some alleys, and it seems that he may be drunk, or lost, or going the wrong way. This surely wasnt the straight path to the station... He kept looking back and smiling, until we came to halt for a HUGE truck blocking the path, in the middle of these tiny alleys! The driver argues for 10 minutes for the truck to move, and ends up turning back...
The alleys got denser and darker, seemingly further away from the train station. I was getting worried, as now 30 minutes past..
So I busted out my flashlight and lit the way a little...

Suddenly a pack of stray dogs woke up and were really angry at the moving light and the rickshaws squeeky sound..
They started to run after us, barking violently and growling, attacking both of us!! The old man starts peedling his ass off as the dogs try to snap at his moving legs and my feet.
"AAAARRRGGGHHH!!!!!!" We screamed bloody murder together as the pack grew into atleast 7 dogs, trying to ward them away with our yelling. Kicked into high gear, human instinct taking our voices to another level, we barely escaped the hungry pack!!!!
Laugter filled the air as we busted out with excitement, hollering at the wild night, grins ear to ear, happy to have made it out okay...Our energy connected.
Soon we were at the train station, arriving with a nice tip for our adventure, and time to hit up Kushinagar, where the great Buddah died!

The train station was like a homeless shelter. Walking over hundereds of bodies that sleep on the cold cement floor was like playing leap frog.
The train, naturally, was late, and by the time we departed, the sun was up and shining. Dont know, dont care what class I am in, the lack of sleep had me wasted. The first cart seen was therefor the best option! With metal seats, and metal-bar racks above for luggage, I did a little gettoh action and slept above on the luggage racks for the 5-6 hours to Gorakapur. Just my luck, some before hand converstion with locals, thankfully, was my alarm clock, as I would have slept the whole way back to Varanasi!

Kushinagar

It didnt take long to find a bus to Kushinagar.
A few hours later the fully packed buss stoped at the front gate of this very small village, and following my instincts, proceeded down the most well-trodden road by foot.
Checked out a few places to sleep, and ended up at the Chineese temple, first and most obvious, for 200rs a night. Their garden was beautiful, peaceful, and the town quiet with only 2 resturants. A very small village it was, and easy to navigate with the little daylight left to spare. Walking to the Reclining Buddha statue, the most symbolic representation to our Japaneese temple(!), was filled with Pilgrims from all ovr the world.
Tibet, Bhutan, Nepal, but no tourists at all...Everyone here was a pilgrim, the town emanating with an unexplainable energy, Kushinagar is a magical place!
Walking a little futher, soon appeared a simple man with a Chai stand, situtated infront of the temple he cares for alone. Some Cahi, conversation, smiles and laughs, within minutes his vibe was a good one...
"Lets meet tomorow"...... "okay!"

Waking up early to start the day,
walking past his chai stand with hours to spare,
an old home with endess sugarcane feilds had thier family working hard to make raw, brown sugar sweets... The scenery reminded me of my roots and past: From Japan to Hawaii my great grandmother traveled alone in 1897, looking for work in the sugar cane feilds, which eventually brought me into budhism through family tradition.
"HELLO, COME!!" waving me to join them, offering a seat infront of three big tubs, dug into the ground, where the process of converting freshly cut sugar cane into raw sugar takes place. Each hole contained a different color of sugar extract, and the end product was suggar balls, gifted to me by the handfull!
The sweetest, freshest sugar I ever had in my life!!
So much to eat, but disrespectful to do otherwise, I chowed it all down, and that much sugar in the morning isnt easy to stomach!

"Ciggerette??"
"Jee!".... Handing away to five adults at this home, some expensive goldflake ciggerettes, which a pack cost half a days wage, but 50 cents to me! Although I dont smoke tobacco much, and actually dont like it remember this in India:
YOU WILL come into situations with nothing to give in return for great amounts of generousity (but money, which isnt cool). Ciggerettes are always appreciated by most!!

Continuing down the road, a huge stupa appeared in a grassy feild, far from the hotel. This is where Buddha was cremated. Words do no justice for the graditude and love that instantly took control. Walking around the stupa, with prayer in my heart, three bows are offered and tears are held back. The Mahaparinvirana Sutra, my beliefs, are held withing this land.
Praise to god and the love of all living thigs.

Walking back toward to Chai stand to meet my new friend, some Indian college students kindly diverted my into thier home, and offered me, again, a handful of Raw Sugar.. Accepting this gift, grateful to the love of this land and its people, our time was limited and our experience buffered by our language barrier. Leaving with a smile and hands in Namaste, the experience was wonderful. For the first time, people of India opened up thier heart to me.
Hating to admit this, it was hard to accept and understand at the time, the heart of sharing with barely anything to give at all, especially after all the touts and being taken advantage of many times, over and over...

And as time went on, my travels only revealed the purity that India contains, when acts like these go beyond anything experienced in life, which will change my life and perspective forever..

Making it to the Chai shop on time, my friend brewed some tasty chai, made with fresh Buffalo Milk(!) from his very own buffalos! Sipping on a new tasty treat, in the holiest of land, these small things makes life grand, and in India, this train of thought is a way of life.

"Get on, sit!" as my new friend and his brother hop on thier motor cycle. Three of us drive through the country side, not knowing where we are going, and it really didnt matter to me! Riding for an hour, passing a buring body on the side of a small bridge where a rural family is mourning, we enter an off-the-map town in search of his chemist, but first some Samosa’s and Chai!A quick stop at your typical clay stove, wood fire, dirt floor, straw hut Chai Stand on the side of the road. This is where the BEST chai, and food is found! Ridng arund on the country side was unreal. It was easy to imagine buddah walking the same path, and the streches of feilds and forest are majestic with low laying fog, a veil over the distant trees.

Returning to Kushinagar in the afternoon to his temple/chai stand, my friend wants to show me something special. A real cutting from the bodhi tree off the beaten path. A short 5 minute walk through the mustard feilds filled with sweet fresh air and a quiet ambience. Then it hit me....
That familiar smell! I looked around, and leading to the Bodhi tree was wild Cannabis plants everywhere! So unbelieveable! From then on, there was an awareness of how Cannabis grows wild everywhere between Kushinagar to Vaishali!!! However being early season, they were not flowering, and those that were, are either male or hermie, or the hemp variety.

My friend can speak 5 languages, and proved his Japanese the next day, as a guide for some Japan tourists. A smart educated man, living poor as a temple care taker / chai maker, he also claimed to be a buddhist priest, after all he did live in the ONE and only room at the small temple. But he wasnt like most monks/priests. He was your normal man, and an example of the Mahaparinirvana sutra: Buddhas last teaching. I asked him about smoking Ganja, as it is in violation on the five vows, and the only one I dont follow...
He was cool with it, and shared his knowledge of Hindu belief, and his own.
So I packed a chillum for us....
"BOOM SHANKAR!!!!!"

Time to retire, and meet again the next day...Tonight luck was on my side, for tap water was waiting for me at the hotel, the first time in 3 days!!! It was hot water too!
Praise Jah, for even cold tap water is luxury in India, as most bathe in dirty brown lakes and filthy ponds. Then it was apparent, the Indian lifestyle is embracing my once western values and spoiled way of life..
I feel this is a gift from the Buddha, a wonderful lesson through experience.

The next day at 8 am, a thick fog covered the town. Flowers just paces away were hidden by the mist, it was so beautiful!
Onto the main road, two men bigger than me, rididng a motorcycle, approach me through the fog..
With evil eyes, and very bad energy he demanded money.
"who are you?" I asked...
"GIVE MONEY NOW!"...
He was ready to get off the bike and scrap, I could tell.
"No money, sorry" and I walked off..
They slowly follow me and circle the main road back and forth, passing by over and over demanding money.
Secretly I took out my swiss army knife which has a cork screw pertruding from the thick grip, which makes a hard fist with a corck screw steming between my middle and ring finger. A nice defense, but im so sorry to say, bad karma.
After he approaches me one more time, knowing he could do some damage, I sright up tell him to his face "Look boy, you aint getting shit from me you understand?". Back home, that would have been a fight right then and there, but they just took off with an evil look and evil laugh. Never saw them again.
I felt so bad, coming on a pilgrimage to the most holy land, and almost busting out a potentially deadly weapon, because of my fear, my karma..

continuing toward the stupa to pray and pay respects, and appologise for my actions, some kids stop me and hand me a stick... "Indian tooth brush!"
They were chewing this raw stick until its bristled, then scrubbing thier teeth with it. They cant afford a real tooth brush, so this is prevelent and the best method available. The taste was nasty, but I gladly accepted and gave much thanks. 200 meters later the same kid comes running after me...
"Indian toothbrush 10 rupees!!"...
I laugh and hand him the stick back with a smile. The kid walks away mad, swearing in Hindi. What a trip!

To the Chai stand to meet my friend, he first takes me to his home, down a tiny dirt road hidden within the felids. Some houses were brick, others straw and claw. Two buffalos whos milk I enjoyed was intoduced, as well as his family, which was typically big, inculding his grandfather who is over 100 years old!
His mother serves us some lunch, veg curry with rice and all kinds of side dishes, including FRESH, raw buffalo milk from their land! Real home style indian food is priceless, and sooooo goood.
Afterwards, we take a 1 hour journey to his "brothers sister’s house" in the middle of no where!! Riding down narow dirt roads between mustard and vegetable feilds, Cannabis everywhere in huge patches, it was the most beautiful country side I have yet to see in India. Weaving between old straw and brick houses, it was an extremely rurual part of India. A pure country lifestyle with a population of about 300.
Surrounded by 20 people at first, staring with bank looks and no english, is the common greeting for me, so im used to it by now. Soon after a beautiful Indian girl, my age, presented me with chai after chai, crackers, cookies, Indian sweets, sugar cane, more Indian sweets, overfeeding me with hospitality!...
The only bad thing? Out here, there is no bottled water. Even in the surrounding towns of Kushinagar of decent size, there is no bottled water. Soon my friend left me for "just a litte while", and took off with his motorcycle, leaving me alone with his family, who spoke no english, for 3 hours!!! Thirsty, scared to drink the tap water, mental and physical exhaustion, the day was turining into night, and the situation got a little intimidating. But I kept good faith, lots of smiles, and soon my friend returned with a present!! A FRESH GREEN PRESENT!!! Only 100rs for a handful, it was a cool, straight up deal, and Jah provided when I was almost out of my presents! AchaGanjah, Praise Jah!

We smoked a ciggertte full, it was really mellow and happy, and I patiently waited until the sun set to leave. But then things got sketchy!!
Somehow under the muffled influence of happiness-induced natural mystic, the words "American Green Card", "Visa", "marrage", and "you like this girl?"...

F**K!!!!.....

Letting the converstion flow until a respetful amount of silence was que for the big question...
"Can you please take me to my hotel?".. He agreed, and we both enjoyed the long journey back heading into an Indian Orange sunset.

Reaching his chai stand, and owed 400 Rupees change from the Personal Gift he sold me, he was hesitant to honor our agreement it seemed. After asking 4 times, telling him "just 300rupees, keep 100 for Petrol", he handed me what I wanted.
But I stil had an obligation to have dinner all the way back at the rural village we just departed.
Not knowing what to think or feel, the thin line between genuinity and buisness was too thin to comprehend. Another mispoken truth was his "bother owned my hotel, so my 8pm cerfew didnt matter".
I returned to freshen up at the hotel, while my friend waited outside. Thinking hard about the situation and walking to the street where he was stadning, my heart told him that I was very very tired, havent slept in a long time, and would like to just go to sleep.
He seemed very sad, and I asked 3 times if I offended him, with the same "yes" reply to each question. I felt bad, but was intimadated by the situation, and needed to decline. I promised to meet him early the net day at his temple, before leaving this town of Kushinagar.
Later that night, after he left, I asked the management if his brother owned the hotel..
"This place is owned by a woman from America" he replied.....

I wanted to get out of the town, but I felt I owed the respect to atleast say goodbye to this man, and respectfully call him on his assumed bullshit.
When arriving at his chai stand, another westerner traveling alone was sharing some tea.
A little later I decided to visit the home of Chunda, who gave the last offering to buddha, since I couldent leave the town today. My friend insisted he come with me, although I was already feeling like he was a fake. He walked me to the bus stand to help me out with the directions, and actually escort me to the village. Soon the westerner met earlier today showed up, so we invited him along.
Into a little village off the map, sharing some fish and samosas with chai, we were ready to walk to the escavation site. Wasnt anything special at first look, but spiritually, it was amazing. Muslim women in a trance like state sat around the ruins chanting and moving like under a spell. It was a trip to watch..
After an hour we retired to an expensive beer, treated our Indian friend to one, and he got wasted like nothing!.
A bus was needed to return, and there was no room for us inside the first bus leaving to Kushinagar...
....
Then my dream came true...
WE GOT TO RIDE ON THE ROOF OF AN INDIAN BUS!!
10 feet climbing up the parked buss, and my camera falls down!!
OH MY GOD!! Praise the lord, it took the abuse, and still works perfectly! Its as if the Karma of this pilgramage is watching over my soul.
The bus ride back was one long smile. We were like the kings of a parade as the bus slowly drove down the paved road. Villagers waving to us from all over, some waved at by us only to stare with blank looks in return, followed by laughter shared between we solo travelers.
Ending the ride early, we walked through a short cut in the green feilds, our drunken indian friend as our happy guide, until we came to a small, shallow river that flows behind the cremation site of Buddha. It was said Buddha took his last bath and drank his last sips of water from this river, which was very clean and clear.
Taking our shoes and socks off, we walked across this sacred, unknown river with our barefeet, knowing how lucky, how precious it is, to have walked the same path as the world honored one.
Smoking a Bidi and letting our feet dry, within 5 minutes we made it back to the Temple/Chai stand. A chilum was passed around between the three of us, my westerner friend partaking for the first time in years (what is it about people not smoking for years, then meeting me and ASKING to smoke??)
The night was young, but our strength drained. Dinner time was soon, so we all ate a last meal together at the best (1 of 2) resturants in the town.
Sadly, I hate to admit this, but my Indian friends integrity was resting on his own bill. To my amazement, he paid for hiself, as we all did, and at that moment I knew he was a cool person. I prased him, gave him my love and thanks, hands in Namaste, and wished them both well...

Time to get up and catch the 8:00am buss to Kesyria, where the #2 largets buddhist stupa is!!(sp?) 

Posted on February 13th, 2006

Kushinagar to Kesariya!

Not wanting to bactrack, and with lack of advice from even the TOURIST INFO CNTER in Kushinagr, I took my Indian friends advice and caught a bus into a place off the Lonely Planet map yet again, into a place called Gopalganj.
The bus ride sucked, I stood the entire 3 hours, and when I reached this town to transfer busses, there was NO bottled water anywhere in this seemingly large town. I guess no tourists ever come here.
Man I need some food... So the first Dabba looked best. "Veg Curry, no Chicken, please"
He makes me a plate of chicken curry, spicy, good, and served with some tap water. At this moment I broke two rules. Eating the chicken in India, and drinkng the tap water!
However, eating with obvious dirty hands, scooping the food into my mouth with filthy fingers, has become more routine than disgusting. Infact I wil NEVER eat Indian food with utensils again!! The right hand is more efficient and easier!
Soon as the meal was done, the transfer bus was leaving toward Kesariya’s enterance, again off the map, an unknown second way to reach Kesariya...
The locals had a certain name for the village, perhaps there is two names and the LP lists only one name....?
A tempo to the town tok me only so far, so I walked about 2 miles until a huge stupa appeared in the middle of nowhere. I still had no botted water, no food, and it was too late to get a bus ride out! Not only that, Kesariya has NO hotels at all.
Time to rough it and camp under the stars!!! Climbing the tall stupa and finding a flat area was like hevan. Above the danger, alone with India, it was everthing I wanted, but not what god had planned for me... God needed to teach me a lesson...
Some of the attendants of the deserted monument wouldent leave me alone. "YOU CANT SLEEP HERE". But I had no where to sleep or go, and only a bed tent and blanket. They offered me a room at the office to crach, and I gladly accepted. Within 5 minutes I was knocked out. The sun was barely setting and the night young. Soon they woke me up with samosas and crackers for some food. I was so grateful to have food and shelter.
But I couldent stay there, for it was a problem against government policy. They took me to the police station, and I was afraid. The police took all my information, questioned me about everything, and fell short of searching my bags, thank the gods!
The head cheif knew my situation, and told me "You can sleep at my house tonight".
Next to his bedroom was a little waiting room. Some officers moved in a old ply-wood bench with a blanket covering its hard surface, this was my bed.
Then they brought me food, lots of food, and I couldent even finish it all. The water again was tap water, and being forced to survive off the ground water in India was a little scarry, as dysentery kept pestering my conscience.. The head chief sat withme and talked about his life...
He had barely anything, worked 24 hours a day 7 days a week, on call, and could only visit his dying wife in Patna (100km away) once a month. He had children, but can rarely see them becuase he must work so hard to support them. His life was simple, and his bed not much better than mine. He makes roughly $15USD for 24 hours of work per day.
So little did he own, yet so much to give, he was the most genuine person I have met in India. All he asked was that I make Puja (prayers) for his wife. That night I offered prayers from the monk-only chapter of my prayer book, for his wife. Graditude toward his kind heart, the buddah, and the little he had to give made tears run down my face..
In the morning, I awoke to breakfast and warm fresh milk. We had a nice conversation, and were about to part ways, for I must continue to Vaishali and the bus departs within 30 minutes.
Looking him in his eyes I spoke from the heart, and my words were a reflection of his heart, in praise for his blessings...
Loading up onto the bus, its time to travel through the dirt, pot-holed roads to Vaishali, where the journey penetrates deeper into the mystery that India has planned for me. From here on, the pigramage is insane!
5 hours and 150 ruppes later, I am ony half way done with my journal of the last 10 days. Forgive the delay!
Aloha

Posted on February 13th, 2006

Kesariya to Vaishali!

Buddha spent some time here, preaching his knowledge!
Feeling partially enlightened after encountering whole hearted acts of a buddha nature, the worse road ever traveled still brought and endless smile to my face. The bus traveled through the back roads, which was one gigantic pot hole. Little Cannabis plants boarderd the road side everywhere. The sweet smell of Ganja, urine, vegetable feilds, cows, wooden stoves and spices filled the air as we travled through the most country part of India seen yet.

Straw huts, remote villages, clear skies and palm trees emerging from the tall grasslands brings day dreams of wild tigers lurking, the exotic india known in old movies.. The scenery was beautiful, and only estinguished when the normal happens: Indians cant help to start a conversation with a foriegner, even if you have earphones on! Its almost impossible to listen to an entire song without being forced into a barely unerstandable, 30 minute conversation about god knows what!

But this bus trip wasnt too bad, and a few cd’s worth of music went undisturbed, though looking at the passangers every so often, I could tell they were itchen to talk to me! Ariving at Vaishali, the first thought was "HUH?, this cant be Vaihali!"
This town is the smallest place I ever been to. Not one resturant! Only samosa’s, crackers, and botted water. The first and best hotel in the small area was the Shri Lanka guest house, by donation only. The LP listed hotel, the only one, was practiclly deserted.
Got a sweet private bath, 2 beds, cold water showers, and CLEAN standards. Food is free here too!

My next 2 days in Vaishali, I lived off of $1.50, plus a nice donation!

First priority was water, so I made the treck in search of something in a bottle...
A huge crowd stood in the middle of a dirt feild, and called me over to join them.
It was a musical Movie in action! THE MOST SEXY, BEAUTIFUL Indian girl I have ever layed eyes on, dressed in a sexy purple Indian dress, belly button flat and exposed, I fell inlove instantly.
Hard work for them all, cut! cut! cut! No good!
An hour was spent fogeting about thirst, and imagining what it would be like to have such a woman. She was dancing with grace, shaking her hips, flowing arm and hand movements to Indian music, nothing like I have ever seen before. I was in love
Soon the director stopped and greeted me, proud to have a new guest! Everyone, hundreds of villagers surrounded me in awe of a wierd foriegn face..

Ofcourse, Indian hospitaity is formost in Bihar, so it seems, although it is "the most lawless state". Offerd lunch that I cant refuse. Teaching me how to eat with my hands the proper Indian way, using the thumb topush the food into your mouth, they wanted me to feed the beautiful girl from my hand!! I declined to be polite, but later found it was a customary to feed someone with your hand, atleast in this town..
The whole movie set gang took me to thier studio, fed me lunch, sang for me, took 20 pictures, and made me sing American songs! I busted out with some Bob Marley and Sublime tunes known by heart, and they werent impressed, for Indians have amazing voices.
After hours of hanging out, and a little caution/suspicion from my side, everything worked out perfectly, and they left before nighttime to finish thier work.

That night I met an Indian guide from Ladakh, my age, and we shared hours of religious conversation. We opened up to eachother, told things that no one else knows about. Of course, being born and raised in Jammu area, I had to ask about the hash there!
He hasnt smoked in years, gave it up, but after our conversation, he asked me to smoke him out with my chillum! We got so stoned, shook hands, parted ways to remember our good times together, forever..

The next day was even crazier!! MY GOD! But I gota go now, its been 6 hours of typing! Im so broke! hahaha!! Right now I am in Bohdgaya, and have many places to talk about....
Aloha everyone!

Posted on February 14th, 2006

Vaishali to Nalanda to Rajgir!

Thinking back to arriving in Vaishali, the small paved road leading to the important sites were boarderd by the poorest people, everyone living in straw huts. A beautiful young girl about 19, dressed in colorful rags, was sitting in the hot black road, molding fresh cowshit into flat patties used for fire. The children were extremely dirty and poor, yet thier culture and appreciation for life was apparent through thier endless smiles, interest and laughter.

The ShriLanka temple by donation only was a god send, with an 8pm cerfew, understandably.
Remembering back to the moments before dusk,a nice walk toward the main road to explore the place hit the spot. Within seconds of passing the same straw huts and happy children, an elderly man offered me a ciggerette and chai. Its hard to believe such a small gift is a nice chunk of his daily wage, probably 10% or more. He was happy to give, although I had to part ways early, for Puja was at 6:00pm.
Just making it back in time, the monk was waiting for me! We sat together infront of a golden sitting Buddha shrine, offered our bows with a different form and gesture, and soon the rythmatic tibetian style chanting filled the hotel. Hands together, in meditation, feelings of graditude for all the blessings recieved flowed through my body, the chanting vibrating within, flowing together like a crystal clear river.. Words cannot describe.
Ending the chanting with a sincere thankyou, we smiled together as he gestured allowance to begin my chanting. Although he did not attend another Puja, his kind heart was busy making dinner for us all!
Along with the aformentioned guide from Lahdak were a few South Korean tourists, whos country coicidentally seems to dominate the tourist economy in India. The free meal was simple, filled with watery rice, seaweed, fruits, potato, and with simple Korean style dinner elements it was a refreshing taste of home! (Hawaii has a big Korean population). After dinner and a smoke, the next day awaited me with an intense, unexpected advenure through the "off the map" villages of Bihar!

Waking into the late morning, washing socks before eating, the day started with another walk around the small lake that the village surrounds. A few straw-hut style chai & snack stands dot the perimeter of the dirty water, in which the locals bathe. Looking everywhere for food, it takes an hour before finding some Samosas and water, infront of the beautiful white marble Japanese temple. A group of elders in thier 40’s and 50’s sat around the normal 20 person crowd attending the rare sight of this wierd foriegn face. But eventually settling down as the fresh food was presented, the older crowd offered me to smoke some Chillum. Though the temple attendand forcefully declined thier offer for me, and that was understandable...
One of the men keeps feeding me sweets with his hand, which by this time, wasnt suprising...
They would walk up to me, bow down and touch my feet, and raise with thier hands together in Namaste. A very high sign of respect, for as many Indians have told me:
"In india we say Guest is like God".

Bill?...
Handed him the charge and took off a few paces when the elders stopped me for a quick conversation, and then to escort me into the temple which was decorated beautifully. Three bows, a small donation, and a sudden offer to tag along in thier Jeep, heading to the Asoka pillar 3km away, which I was about to walk to! Right on!
About 8 men squeezed into this tiny jeep, and passed the turn off to the Pillar...!
Keeping silently happy, not having a clue where we are going or how far they will drive me, accepting "going with the flow" was too easy by now...Kicked back, one of the men sitting next to me who barely spoke english sang the whole way with a huge grin, staring at me, singing to me in HIndi... He was a fat man in his 40’s, gold and rotten teeth, jolly and filled with laughter...

Within 20 minutes we arrived somewhere unknown..

It was the birthplace of the founder of Jain religion. 2500 yaers old. These men were also on a pilgramage from far away towns in Bihar, some where from local villages who were only friends. Only one man spoke english, a short indian man about 60, who sported a long grey beard. He explained a little about this sacred place, and gave deep thoughts reguarding the holy history of this regions soil.
Soon we were off in the jeep again, arriving at the Asoka Pillar!!
No need for an enterance fee, although it was written at the offical booth. These men got me in for free, and later I found out who they claimed to be...
(Important village people who can smoke ganja everywhere and have respect everywhere, one a head master of his village, perhaps with a little excissive power in this part of Bihar..)
The old man explained a little history not in the guide books. Around the stupa and Lion-Pillar rests 99 mini stupas, each a grave for Emporer Ashokas 99 brothers whom died at his hands! The bloodshed of Ashokas wars, killing his 99 brothers is unthinkable... Yet he still retianed a Buddha nature, like every human being, and was able to dedicate the rest of his life in repentance and love for the teachings of Buddha. This moment was a reflection, as I secretly wipped my eyes, for the realization that every human no matter how messsed up, is cappable of a love-centered-life...

Back into the jeep with deep thoughts, we drove for half an hour into a small town, something like "Lallganj"... Stopping at a Dabba, we sat in a circle and orderd a few snacks, including some soft white creamy sweets never tasted before. Then some whiskey was whipped out! Oh no....
The whiskey was poured into many glasses for all, and boy did they make me drink! Even mixing the Whiskey with tap water, I couldent decline thier gift, and again prayed that I wont get dysentery from the tap water!
Something about this soft white screamy sweet and whiskey that just hit the spot... Kicking back, enjoying the moment, the men were getting wasted off thier @sses! The fat man sitting next to me kept feeding me with his right hand, and soon the double-hand-symbol for "lets smoke some chillum" dropped the conversation. Buzzed, full and happy, I was first to bust out my pre-packed chillum!!
Thier eyes lit up with thier faces... BOOM SHANKAR!!!!
Puffing and passing, across the table sat an elderly man, a Hannyuman Baba, with a Grocery Bag full of ganja! Must have been a quater pounder!
His eyes were red and wide open with a stare as if he can see through existance itself. He sat silently, re-packed my chillum full, and we continued our wodnerful session of whiskey and smoke....
Content and relaxed, my momentary demeaner was my only salvation for the next suprise...
"I LOVE YOU FRIEND".. The fat, 40ish year old man with rotten teeth was getting very emotional and loud. He kept telling mw how much he loved me, and they all started telling me " I LOVE YOOOUUUU"...
*man do Indians get drunk fast!*
So the jolly fat man with rotten teeth grabbed my head, and thinking he was going to give a "Italian Style" cheek kisss, stuck his nasty tounge out and french kissed my mouth!!!!! I threw his head back and quickly wipped my face, short of getting violent.... Everyone laughing hysterically, and it took a minute to regain my posture. That was so sick and not cool. Though as my happiness came with the territory at the time, the situation rolled off my shoulder with a semi-laugh, and from that point everything was cool...

Soon one of the important, richer men in the town showed up, and invited us to his new home, where his son’s birthday celebration was going on...
Taking a tour of his house, he was proud to show me his up-scale life style, for his house was made of brick, and the dirt floor had semi- new furniture. He was one of the richest people in town.
Sitting on his bed with the best treatment, being introduced to his family, so many sweets were presented. Respectfully forced to chow down an unimaginable amount of sweets, the thin line between graditude and sickness had nearly vanished...
Then it was time for lunch!!
Sitting in a circle with 15 other men on thier large dirt porch, the women stayed together in the house, as we found comfert on the floor buffered with a thin rag mat. So much home style cooking was poured on my plate!!
So much curries, all different styles of authentic Indian food, the dinner was an unforgetable one.
"when in rome".....
None of us washed our hands, and ate with our dirty fingers, naturally, without hesitation. Tap water was presented, as bottle water was FAR away. Again having no other choise, I drank down two cups of obviously cloudy ground water!! But man is the food good and spicy!

After the meal, we settled down and soon I knew, it was time to make the transition into "leaving"...Knowing if I stayed any longer, an uncomfertable situation would arrise when they WILL offer me a place to sleep at thier house, which will be hard to decline respectfully...The time was 4:30, and I gave them the best reason I could find without lying...
"At 6pm we have Puja, I need to be at my hotel by 6pm!"...
They understood, but didnt take me back with the Jeep!!
I was on my own!
Walking me across the street, they hailed a tempo back to Vaishali. We said our goodbyes, exchanged information, touching my feet and bowing with respect, only to have the same expression mirrored back at them. This is a good thing to learn in India.. How to show respect to beggars, touts, all people, by touching thier feet, bowing with Namaste gesture.

On the Tempo ride home, I wondered about the erspect they showed me...

Many times I have been called a Sadhu. With dreadlocks like shiva, aesthetic practices of body piercing, alone on a pilgramage to find god, without marrige or a woman, smoking Ganja religiously, and at all times filled with love. "American Sadhu". "Buddhua Sadhu". "Sadhu Baba". These phrases are often spoken infront of me, indirectly between locals, refering to this strange forienger before them.
Many times has my hair alone gained mutual respect from the locals.

But the tempo stopped in a little town inbetween the house I jsut left, and Vaishali. NO ONE here spoke english, it was a town nonexistant to tourists.
This place was raw and real. The people have a rougher attitude, a meaner look, a more agressive behavior and I could tell this is one tough place to live.
"Vaishali?"...YES!
Finnaly found an overcrowded jeep that took an HOUR to get back. By the time I hit the enterence to Vaishali, it was night time and Puja was over.
Chanting alone, prostrated infront of the hotels shrine, grateful for the experiences throughout this holy land, and to have made it back without getting jacked at night, I thanked the Buddha for the blesings recieved today, and prayed for all deceased souls and thier Karma.

After all the excitement, it was now time for dinner! Food at this hotel (guest house actually) was free. And this time, it was AWSOME!!!
Some Shri-lankan nuns were ona pilgrimage too, and bought TONS of food for everyone. They invited me to eat outside, sitting on the steps of the garden, munching on a tasty meal, my gut was stuffed at it was soon time for bed...
So whats the plan for tomorow? Get out the door by 8am to catch the bus to Patna, then to Bodhgaya! However, this would deduct a few important buddhist sites from my pilgramage, and weighing the pros and cons, I lazily took the latter...
Though the Buddha had a different plan for me!!!

Waking up in the morning to a fantastic Wake and Bake, I made it downstairs right on time...Suddenly the head monk walks up and says:
"The Shri-lanka nuns are going to Patna today, you can catch a ride!"
A GIFT FROM THE GODS! Praise Jah, for the karma accumalated during this pilgrimage is ever so apparent!
First class, Air Condidtion, comfertable seats, brand spankin new private bus, I got a front seat with a view so spetacular, I could have been walking the entire way! The windsheild was bigger than any bus seen, so the view was amazing the whole way there!
Knowing there is nothing that spetacular in Patna, its used more as a transit point. The Bus was going all the way to Nalanda, an important Buddhist site I would have skipped otherwise! It was far from Patna, and would have cost me atleast another day in booking/traveling/sleeping. The Nuns were more than happy to hitch me a ride all the way to Nalanda! Infact they were going to Bodhgaya that very day! It was a tough decision, but theres no escaping the fact that I am traveling alone, so the moment seemed parting ways at Nalanda was best...

The ancient ruins were really cool. It was quite an experience to explore and treck around. But soon the 48L Marmot Backpack drained enough energy to call it a day, and find a hotel in Rajgir!! But first, a couple bananas for some beggars, who are 99% without any graditude, heh.

Only 6 rupees from Nalanda to Rajgir, but the jeep had no room..
Oh yeah! My seat is on the roof, baby!!! WOOHOO!!
Some small rails to hold onto, and rice-sacks to lean back on, I had a first class, Maharaja style gangster lean, on top of the world!! The whole way there was such a blast, and my cheeks are hurting from all the Perma-grining!

Then out of no where,
massive and unimaginable, mountian size hills rose almost vertically from the flat plains, demanding nothing less than pure awe. We were now in Rajgir, and what awaits is just another chapter that ultimately changed my life...

Posted on February 14th, 2006

 Hopping off the roof of the tempo, excited and overthrilled, my Marmot Pack fell straight into a pile of sewage. Great.
Walking around the town searching for a hotel, careless for the Lonely Planet, booking in advanced is now out of the question in my travels. Also I can care less for the LP’s hotel listings. After one month in India, with sufficient clothes and a bed tent, it no longer matters what happens when arriving in a new place. Faith in god only matters now, and keeping a pure heart and frame of mind is all that is needed here, in Great India.

Finding a side street, two hotels face eachother with apparent competition. This is a good sign! Choosing one, happy to find a room with a private bath, and bargain with the owner for 100rs a night! Not bad! Of course, its cold water, squat toilet, and a thin matress thats almost non-existant. After a month in India, I know, this is luxury compared to half the nations life style!
Outside my thirdfloor room was a two story house where a poor local family lived, cows right below, cow-dung fire patties by the masses, the stench of fecies didnt phase me, at this point. I was happy to have a roof over my head!
Well we got some time before sunset,
time to explore the town a little.....
After an overpriced lunch down the road, and heading into the backroads of Rajgir, I wanted to leave the next day! This small village was so intense, so real, it reminded me of the coined phrase "Distilled India" in reference to Varanasi. Although Rajgir has a more "raw" element than Varanasi, its not a tourist place, its a holy place, and few travelers stay here, rather passing through for the day. I found a Chemist and got a little mellow, and then let things flow over a cup of chai, from the filthiest stand ever! Soon a heard of atleast 100 cattle comes walking down the street! It was pretty amazing. The Chemist shops have signs posting as "Druggists", heh heh! And in many ways, thats the illegitimately are! This place is such a trip!
Wanderd through some back alleys and found out how small this little town is.
Its like a mini LosVegas...
A small bustling town in the middle of no where, and within a few paces your back into endless feilds and mountain ranges...
From the dirt plains behind main road, temples dotting the mountain tops intrigue the sences, and the orange sunset over the golden landscape radiates a feeling of holiness, for this is considered a holy land by 5 different religions!!!
The urge to treck hit me like a truck, and the temples on the mountain top looked so inaccessable, I HAD to find a way there! So it was then decided to stay another night in Rajgir, and climb the mountain!! The guidebook says nothing about these temples, other than many exist on 5 hills and you can catch a "cable car" to one of them... HAH!

The first day in Rajgir was turning into night....
On the way back to the hotel I met a kid in the feild who was about 13. Instantly we became friends, he was a cool kid, and a person I will never forget by the time I leave Rajgir!!

Although the hotel owner and staff knew only 10 english words and numbers to barter with, the food they cooked me was the best and cheapest ever. 25rs (50 cents!) for the best dinner dish ever!! Gota love the food here! A meal like this would cost $20usd back home!
Later on that night, I got felt adventureous enough to wander the streets of lawless Bihar after dark!
Finding a chai shop, the boy brings it from across the way. The usual crowd of 20 people surrounding me silently was again the normal greeting, even at this hour... When I asked "Bill?"... he replies "50rs"...
I laughed, but he was serious. The situation paused with an uncomfertable silence.... "no no no... 2 rupees!!" I said with a laugh.. But he insisted on the 50rs! Irie vibes and a smile prevailed, and soon I had them laughing with me, and he gave me the Chai for free! Needing to give someting in return, I bought some Bidi’s from his friend’s stand, who overcharged me 2rs anyway! Then I shared my Bidi’s with them all, and the whole crowd lightened up until it almost became a party, a party like the one about to happen!!!..

Leaving the groupies to retire on the porch of my hotel,
music started blasting from far away. A turck carring HUGE speakers, blasting Indian music, rolling along slowly approached the hotel. On the back of the truck was a statue of Hindu god. Many locals were dancing the whole night away, having a blast as the music went on into the late night!! Witnessing such an event was really cool, as it was more of a township ritual! A few great pictures and it was time to rest for the next day, because the mountain top calls out to me!!! Little did I know, the entire next day would take me along a secret, 22km (more like 28km) hike through the mountians, visiting ancient temples so remote, they are left locked and unattended...
But that story is for another day!

Aloha everyone!

Posted on February 18th, 2006 

Second day in Rajgir 

Aloha everyone, namaste
Thank you all for the kind replies! Im glad you are all enjoying the journey aswell.

The second day in Rajgir sarted relatively early, as the hotel owner came knocking at my door aruond 8:30am to ask if some breakfast would make me happy. Taking it as a sign, within a few minutes I was dressed and downstairs, only to find the biggest, cheapest breakfast compareable to last nights dinner! The owner also pre-arranged a tempo for my day, without my knowledge, and he waited very patiently, only to find out I was unaware and unwilling!

Walking a few hundred yards down the road, the once bustling city turned into a quiet, desert like retreat. A split in the road leads to seperate mountains, but only the western peak called out with a temple crowning the top. Walking further down the road, with eyes fixed on the mountain slope, a barely noticeable pathway appeared through the dried bush, leading a steep climb to an unknown height. Hit with instant excitement, the path to find the starting point became a mission!

Instincts led the start of this walk through a narrow pathway, behind chai stands and shops which didnt seem like the right path at all. A pink, roofless building stood out where inside a public bath full of dirty water had many villagers bathing in it. Feeling really out of place I looked down and hesitantly continued further behind the bath’s walls. Here was a small community of people like nothing I seen before. It was an extremely busy town of people, all who worked out of and lived in grass shacks, as if the country style way of life was condensed into a small city!
Walking past the busy villagers, soon appeared the starting point, slightly hidden behind the crowds of shacks and people. A small stone marking the enterence, and the engravement read the temple atop dates back to 2500bc.
The pathway was beautiful, cement-like stone with natural marble inlay, and steps leading up so far, the ending was a secret to be found. Armed with a litter of water, the mid-day sun fried above my head, and this moment only fueled my determination, testing the willpower of adventure, with the seemingly endless climb mocking me with each and every step. The pace grew faster until it was like being back home, walking up scenic dirt roads into the mountains of Oahu, falling quickly into the natural rythum of hiking..

Passing cattle and goats, farmers and villagers, a sence of wonder was nothing less than admiration for thier way of life in this remote area, and the amazement of what cows would be doing this high up the steep stair way...Many of the villagers gathering fire wood from the dried brush, only to carry down loads resting with a perfect ballance upon thier heads.
After thousands of stairs, the first small temple made a nice retreat, sharing a bidi and buying some overpriced water!
Only a third of the way up the mountain, the jounery continued until, atlast, the temple crowing the mountain top was at my feet! Finnaly! The view was beautiful, and Rajgir looked so far away, pictures taken could barely capture the town!
Walking around the temple, the same pathawy was found hidden away, continuing far down the valley slope, and up another, where a simmilar temple stuck out in the distance.
"Kilometers?" I asked the temple attendan, pointing at the temple across the valley..
"only 3 or 4". He says..
Sounds good to me!...The walking of endless stairs went on..
Soon it hit me, I was in the middle of nowhere. No houses, no people, a half liter of water, and nothing but mountian sides and wild vegetation...
...The stairs went on and on..
When the temple across the valley was reached, it was time to chill out for a while and relax for a few....
Another temple was a short distance away, and like the once next to it, the temple was so remote that it was unattended and locked up behind bars. A short look around, and I noticed the path continued!!
Assessing the situation on water and energy, I chanced the trail leading further into the unknown, with now less than half a liter of water, and nothing but wilderness in sight..
The stairs trailed down and down, and after a few more hours of walking, fear started to set in. I was passed the point of return, and didnt know where I was going to end up, so the best idea was to keep going!
While admiring the landscape, although terrified that I could be lost, a small section of the main road appeared about 4 miles away! YES! from then on, the trail was a blast! Knowing I was okay, the hike ended with a chillum under a tree, sitting on a marble rock, still a mile away from the paved, main road.
A villager soon appeared from the bush, carring a large knife on a stick, and I offered a seat. He was poor farmer, and had a sack full of grains which he offered a handful of. Villagers like him make barely 50rs a day, for all they do is clear bush and farm in the widnerness. Wanting a little baksheesh, of course, a 10rs note was a nice gesture, and he ungratefully half-smiled as we parted ways.

The day was scorching hot at this time, and while walking down the paved road I noticed the hike just completed went up one side, and came down the other side of the entire mountian, length wise (including the valley inbetween)!
A little sunburned, over-heated, I took my shirt off and let it hang around my neck, and let the dreads hang too, as my bandana was soaked with sweat.
Always with a sence of love and reality after long walks into unknown wilderness, highest vibes with a feeling of spiritual enlightenment, walking down the road letting the dreads hang had a special effect. Villagers and townspeople were giving me the Namaste gesture with smiles, instead of blank confused looks. Sweaty and dirty with a thousand mile stare, somehow, for some reason, I was getting a lot of respect.

Arrivng back at the starting point, a few villagers confirmed that the entire monestery hike was 19 kilometers! The afternoon was still early, and it was time for lunch....
Dabbas doing road-side buisness can prepare some cheap vegetale curry, and the once chosen had a spetacular view of the second mountian, the one in the east!!
Today my energy level was going off the hook, maybe it was the food, but staring at the second mountain gave me that same special feeling all over again!
Mocking me, tempting me, calling out to climb it!!.....I gave in

Finding the starting point was very easy, as the hiking trail begins behind the "Hot Springs".
A Hindu man approaches me as I pass the famous place, his intentions correctly prejudged. Forcing me to recieve a "blessing", of course for a hidden fee, I couldent say no, or pay him!
So I let him do his thing, recite a prayer without much enthusiasum, and the grand total was 500rs! Heh heh! Time to bust out an old trick, but an honest gesture from the heart.

With sincere prayer I looked him in the eyes, and told him my payment is "puja". I bent down, touched his feet, and put my hand together in Namaste, and let a moment of silence pass as I recite a blessing. The man and I both content, walked seperate ways to continue along our own paths in life.

Just like the first mountian, the path has the same stone inlay, same vegetation, but a totally different view! Only a few short Kilometers of an uphil battle between my legs and the stairs, temples finnaly revealed itself, one after another, some unattended and perfect for another chillum while enjoying the scenery all to my self!! Feeling Irie and upbeat, it was time to walk further up the mountain!
The only man you can call a tourist wasnt very welcome at the top, as two days in Rajgir showed only a single western couple! The true isolation of these places is something really special for those who love hiking! But at the very top of the mountain, the marble-inlay path ended into a temple which had a family living within its boundries. Walking behind the temple, around the family members, the eldest man ran after me and scolded me in Hindi. Through his warnings, I noticed another path way continuing up the moutain side, but it was a dirt road filled with gigantic boulders to climb over. However, the brush was chopped away and a clear pathway was apparent, although pretty rough! I kept pointing to the pathway, and he kept saying "NO! JUNGLE!" over and over. Insisting that its part of my journey, and unwilling to listen, he waved his backhand while turning away, as if to gesture "go f**k off then, I dont care!"...
....cool!
Climbing for an hour up this dirt road, over big rocks and sharp broken pieces of marble, locals passed by without much thought to this alien face, though I noticed something about them...
They were dressed a little differently, and all carried bamboo walking sticks, bamboo that I have yet to see growign in this region! Many of the old ladies walking slowly on this path had no shoes at all, and even the men were very small compared to most indians. They looked like a totally different people than the rest of Rajgir..
The climb continued and the path became more of a challenge as it winded higher up the mountain. After atleast 4-5 kilometers of an uphill battle, a group of five villagers approached me..
None could speak much english, but from thier body language and tone of voice, they were telling me to turn back...
At this point I couldent! I offered them 1USD to take me further, to the ending of the trail, but they insisted with passion that I not continue. I had no other choice, so I turned back...
One man spoke a little english, and knew how to ask my name, and introduce hiself aswell...
"Does the trail go to a village??" He says it does.
"Whats the village name?" He said "No name!".
I asked many times, but he wouldent tell me anything about his hidden, remote village!
After returning to the last temple, the elder man who initially warned me, wouldent tell me the village name either! They both kept saying "Village no name"...
It was apparent that beyond the valleys of this mountain, lay a secret village that wants to remain untouched and unspoiled by outsiders. A treckers dream to find! I was so close!...
And how dissapointing, but oh well, it was getting late by now, and time for a beer and a smoke!

Wandering back to the hotel, a kid I chated with a few times was hanging out on the street corner, so we had a little conversation over a little more walking. This 13 year old kid spoke english very well, and he was an amazing person. For such a young boy, its hard to believe, that the philisophical conversaion that followed rivaled that of many adults! Our religious and cultural views on life layed flat on the table, we could only sit there amazed at eachothers teachings.

Parting ways afer dark, the next day I was to leave for Bodhgaya, so we agreed to meet in the morning. Two hours early, I get a knock on the door, it was the young boy. This kid who lives within a poor family and house which visited ealier, had two presents for me. The night before he wouldent even accept a cup of tea, samosa, even a sweet! He had this much respect and integrity, with barely anything to give, though handed me two brand new farewell cards! On the envelopes he wrote, "I love you Justin". With only a few hours until the bus leaves for Bodhgaya, he wouldent even accept breakfast with me. No matter how much I insisted, he would respectfully decline. Feeling happily obligated to spend my last hours in Rajgir with him, breakfast was skipped, although when taking a quick deture for some chai, my friend had already payed for it, along with sweets and a small meal. Still declining my offers to return the favor, or pay for myself. He must have spent a fortune on these gifts, and had so much love to give. What we learned from eachother, and the wisdom shared, im sure that his life along with mine has been in some small way, changed forever. His last words to me spoke: not to get down or sad when India takes advantage of me, as if he knew my story, or the future of my travels here...

Posted on February 22nd, 2006

 Kirmani,
internet here cost 30-40 rupees per hour, but even worse, it takes away from your precious time in India. Im trying to go on a budget, but do my best to express whats really going on. Please, try not to waste too much space, okay? Thanks Kirmani

Im waiting alone for breakfast in Gangtok right now, for the hotel has a computer at the empty cafe... and as I sit here without food in my stomach, just the doubts alone make me so sad. I mean I really love to write and share whats going on with my first travel experience. I was a body piercer for years, look at my portfolio, then got hurt,and yeah I am a little batshit crazy, cause I aint at home, and I love to adventure. I gave it up to come here to India and follow my dreams of traveling. I just wana share whats honestly happening. I swear from the heart. Any way brerakfast brb... edit.

Posted on February 23rd, 2006

First Four days in Bodhgaya 

Arriving into Bodhgaya on Feb 12th, I was only planning on staying for a few days, but it turned out to be a week, and the biggest cross between chiling out and ending a spiritual pilgrimage!
It was also 7 days of truley learning the Indian way of life!!

Entering by tempo close to the Boditree and its temple’s limits, again a new town into wander lost and confused..
Walking over a few steps, a man from America crossed paths as we looked eachother in the eyes. There was no need for an introduction, as that very moment it was like an instant friendship.
"Whats going on man?"....
and from there the Bodhgaya journey started.

He was dressed in some pretty cool custom indian clothes and was pretty chilled out. And although he was going to the Bodhi Temple, Brad was more than happy to take me far down the road to his hotel, the Sheetal, which had hot showers around the clock! The third floor was the rooftop with a few chairs and a table for hanging out. There were four rooms up there, and each room oppupied by cool guests who partied it out a few nights on our large, open balcony. Little did I know how lucky I was at the time:
HIS HOLINESS THE DALI LAMA was at Bodhgaya!! All the rooms in the area could have been booked solid! For 150rs a night, I found it a steal..

The time was early afternoon, so Brad and I went to the temple to hang out with all tibetian monks that flooded the entire place, and eventually found a seat amongst them. Many tibetian monks were gathered along the floor, listening to the chanting being blasted from huge speakers above. A few signs read that it was the 2250(ish) annual festival! Hard to believe we were suddenly part of an ancient tradition, sitting in the middle of it all!
There where groups of people from all over, many solo travelers, also more dreadies than I ever seen!

As His Holiness the Dali Lama began to exit the temple, people were CRAWLING over eachother to catch a glimpse, a photo, any kind of memory they can salvage from this moment. Barely able to remove my camera, perhaps it was good karma that gave my feet the